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tv   Made In Bangladesh  Al Jazeera  February 3, 2020 6:32am-7:01am +03

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we have held rallies in several cities including baghdad city and off a low way has promised reforms and early elections demonstrations demanding great ship political change the turkish military has sent reinforcements to northern syria it's warning it may intervene against government attacks in aleppo and it live activists say 9 civilians were killed by ass strikes on sunday a man's been shot dead by police in london after 2 people were stabbed on a busy street the attacker had recently been released from prison police say the incident in strength and was terrorism related those are the headlines the news continues here on al-jazeera rewind stay with us. jr was promised damaging information about the hillary clinton. like to see the station sit down did the trunk come. with russia did you at any time birch the former f.b.i.
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director james comey in any way shape or form the closer to back down the investigation into michael flynn and also as you will know. next question michael field washington on al-jazeera. hello i'm adrian for the good in this episode we're revisiting bangladesh where a few years ago a garment factory collapsed and killed over 1000 people working inside the magnitude of the accident laid bare the lack of safety standards for the country's garment workers and the apparent indifference of the multinational corporations that profited from them. it wasn't the 1st accident to happen in that industry and
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sadly it's unlikely to be the last but the issues raised by this film worth airing again here it is then award winning investigation from al-jazeera as faultline series made in bangladesh. operate the last 5 for last week and pass those savings on door customers to everyday low prices. cut. problem revenue i believe every year 400000000000 dollars having low prices drives traffic to our stores in a big. the wild west cold war expensive prices are here. which is welcome tom cruise. all around the globe wal-mart is taking the lead and making a difference to continuously the american dream has become a global concept i think it's our country's best export.
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2012 was a good year for wal-mart. but it was a bad year for bangladesh. it experienced the deadliest factory fire in its history wal-mart shorts were among the clothes found in the charred remains but the company escaped accountability. and for many western retailers whose clothes are made in bangladesh it's business as usual. anybody out there know how many zeros or half a trillion dollars takeover of a number there along. with the fire that has rained fashions factory last november started on the ground floor and quickly spread. at least 112 people died
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hundreds of others were injured many workers were trapped inside because the doors were locked and the building had no fire exits. the remains of the fire are still everywhere here this is where workers jumped out of the burning building onto the roof of the storm and tory there's bars in all the windows who are going to kick out of the exhaust fans and jump onto this building. on rukia begins daughter he now died in the fire. a lot of below the belt a little bit a minute it was it the. both of. you haven't received any compensation for your daughter's death in the bush where would i meet you but was already begun with a little. many
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of the women who escaped the fire still live in the shadow of the factory. mukhtar bondo is one of them. she says she was sowing the wal-mart shorts when the fire broke out. in this hell and this is a law. that put in money lots of it well added to. their kind of. mask and i've had to pull up on it they were then. going on my list said minister. so how did you escape but the electrician and i love i have this is. what it will of until a ship full of animals that anybody can you describe what you were working on them taught them to learn these are the ones you're working on a hand. when word got out that we were visiting other survivors came to share their stories so you did the hemming along the zipper and the belt and how
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about you none of the women received any compensation from wal-mart so you hanged and packed it up and they all vowed to never work at a garment factory again do you know who these pair of shorts were for were not delivered. 5 months after the fire yet another disaster in bangladesh captured the world's attention. rana plaza an 8 story building housing several garment factories collapsed more than a 1000 people died. even though the scale of the collapse eclipsed the fire the fundamental questions re. eased by ties remain where the same. how could tragedies like this happen and who ultimately should be held responsible. before we arrived in bangladesh we deceived internal documents related to the
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wal-mart short order. the paper trail gives us an inside look into the complicated way that wal-mart produces its clothing. wal-mart is a pioneer and also the most ruthless practitioner of a sourcing model that has now come to dominate the apparel industry it's a system that can shield the company from blame when disaster strikes the mark supply chain is defined by 2 critical features the tremendous pressure wal-mart puts on its suppliers and its contract factories overseas to slash production costs which wal-mart knows those factories will do by ignoring the rights and safety of workers and then secondly the utilization of multiple layers of agents and contractors so that wal-mart can distance itself from responsibility for the inevitable consequences of those sourcing practices. simcoe is a mid-sized garment factory in a neighborhood crowded with them. at its height it had 1500 workers.
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today there are 600. simcoe is where the shorts were supposed to have been made. wal-mart placed the order with a new york based supplier called success apparel. success apparel then filled it with simple with help from a local buying agent called true colors so this is from success apparel does not contract see this is. going to do targeted cars and which is like $300.00 and that is the end of the thing nowhere does mention that this is the wal-mart board but if you. never. ever use the faded glory. faded glory is wal-mart's main in-house clothing line and it was that brand of shorts that was found in the ashes of the dream factory fire. simcoe says
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it couldn't handle the order after dozens of workers who left town during the muslim holiday of eve didn't return on time so already we were overbooked we were over our capacity and suddenly we don't have the workers to fill fruitful field orders on time kevin taxing the c.e.o. of success he visited us and he was like going through our facilities all the production you know use of 4 letter words etc and then he was like and we told him like you know we're having like trouble meeting the deadline you know we need some extensions we need some help he was very opposite he said not a single day extension they're going to give us 5 years upcountry you know so the wal-mart supplier this direct supplier to wal-mart came here and told you yes yes yes. sub contracting means paying another factory to take on some of the work. simcoe was already stretched and dealing with the short then it was hit with yet another massive order and then we
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got this other document from public clothing company and that's another wal-mart supplier. and they've sent a purchase order for almost 300000 shorts you have another set of shorts. august 17th 3 days later you. can make around 300000 garments a month. put together the 2 wal-mart orders will more than double its capacity. for years the logic was you place the order and some other factory will fulfill it somehow the factual fulfill it what is that called for. that's code for a yes you do so contracting it you give it to other lines other production lines to fulfill daughter did walmart know about your production capacity here yes wal-mart does 3rd party audits so the auditors come in they count your machines for you they know exactly how many garments you can produce on average on the line given what
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happened into his dream some have asked why simcoe didn't simply refuse the 2nd wal-mart order factories in place like bangor that are gauged in cutthroat competition with competitors in bangladesh and around the world so it's practically impossible to turn down a major order from wal-mart because that is the factories lively. so to meet 1 march deadline simcoe subcontracted a small part of the success apparel order to manufacture a call to both. tube are then sent the shorts to its dream factory a few weeks later the factory caught fire. oh my god. when really. when really you know i could remark on that happened. i don't know. and my god given me you know there's a look over in the back room caught fire you got smell you know if you want to review the directory why didn't send someone to get our things out. success apparel
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accuse simcoe of subcontracting the order without their knowledge and wal-mart blamed their supplier success that simcoe insists that success knew about dream and that wal-mart also would have known because its own database retailing require suppliers to identify where orders are being filled retailing is supposed to have a record of every factory authorized to produce wal-mart goods every factory engaged in the production of wal-mart goods in may 1 mark named over $240.00 factories it would no longer work with. saying it had a 0 tolerance policy. an authorized sub contracting simcoe was one of them. if there was no forced one person then business would have gone on as usual. it's like everybody knows what's going on it's an open secret but getting caught on
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camera is or. i think in the act then you have to disown everything and say i don't know anything about their duties the practice of the wal-mart to hide you know one more direct contact so you have this upload was a vendor and every fact you seen by all of the shots up contractors everybody facing a scandal wal-mart refused to accept the shorts or to pay the bill even after some of the order had already been shipped and this is are entirely abandoned for out $1200000.00 simcoe says it's nearly bankrupt so all the shorts were made in these production lines and i really feel bad when i don't see our workers in these production lines you know and all these machines are now empty after that has rained fire wal-mart announced at a drop success apparel as a supplier. we tried to speak to successes representative in bangladesh but we
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found the company had closed down its office here. we also tried to interview the company's c.e.o. gilla goodman in new york but she refused to speak with us. kevin taxon who was success as president at the time of the fire also refused to speak to us on camera he now heads up another supplier called america group one of its clients is wal-mart if wal-mart are really so upset about what success apparel did one assumes they would not be keen to continue to do business with a leading executive from success apparel. on the phone kevin told us that neither success nords agent in bangladesh true colors knew about the subcontractor. but we managed to track down true colors last remaining employee in taka. if there's any sup contracting would you be aware of that. and then what do you do with that
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information do you pass it off. to an importer can you read this email from me and tell me who it's from ok then it's saying. the shocking mills aboard the. last of any. one to 6 and what's the subject line of the. called. con is industry speak for subcontractor. that email was sent by a manager true colors shortly after the fire so despite successes denials their own agent may have been aware of the sub contract. where on the trail investigating how wal-mart's supply chain works here in bangladesh. does the company know when its orders are being subcontracted. is the way they source their clothing the system itself flawed. the garment industry is notoriously secretive.
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so we needed an insider. we're on our way to meet an auditor who was hired by wal-mart to assess standards of some of its factories it's very rare for auditors to speak on the record and he doesn't want to speak to us on camera so we recorded the conversation secretly. in bangladesh government regulation of garment factories is lax and international companies are not legally required to ensure working conditions are safe. some companies hire auditors to inspect the factories if you're going to. also. be. that. people are not only there if you order nothing there. what do you think about their system. what why is it better what's the danger you.
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have. to. do. with things like you want to get it. from what you're saying it sounds like wal-mart supply chain saw out of control that there could be more doesn't look. bad or. doesn't know where it's goods are being produced it's because they choose not to know this is a company whose success is built 1st and foremost on the extraordinary level of control they exert over production in their global supply chain wal-mart refused to give us any information about its supply chain but
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a spokesperson told us wal-mart relies on its. fliers to implement the company's standards. there's a reason bangladesh is so popular with companies especially those that produce inexpensive clothes that need to be made quickly. so the rock bottom cheapest place in the world to make apparel it's cheap because it has the lowest minimum wage for apparel workers of any country in the world that he $0.10 an hour. that's about $38.00 a month. but it goes both ways. garments are just as important to bangladesh accounting for 80 percent of its exports and giving jobs to 4000000 people mostly poor women. that gives the industry enormous leverage inside the country for what the buddha detailers unbias come here to look for cheaper
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subclass so that here it is a buyers market everybody shares everybody take. a share of the cake so these are. for money that we have 5 to 6 years but there are. many and. with these lists what drinking all this money. it's not just the multinationals. in bangladesh everyone wants a shot at making it in the garment industry and headed to a small factory and just finishing up garments are supposed to be finished environments for wal-mart and posing as a buyer and there. for those who can't open large factories there's always business in sub contracting. even if it means putting the finishing touches and garments before they're shipped out. to make anything that ends up in wal-mart. you may. products that go to wal-mart.
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a lot but i very much move them up like this if there is a little there it goes. for you an authorized wal-mart sub contractor for that porsche but let me live with them and i want to do the marketing the good. so is this very common that a lot of factories subcontract for big labels like wal-mart without authorization to go through the gauntlet of the. issue but if you. look a little above the minimum. let me know if. you are 14. so you started working when you were 13 years old. so what's the average age of your worth and. where will all the while that this was. a little bit. be invited we just spoke to
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a girl who said she's 14. wal-mart told us they don't tolerate child labor and their supply chain and they're investigating whether this finishing center did any work on wal-mart products. once we found one finishing house it wasn't hard to find others. what do you make it. how many buttons do you put on every day or. how old are you today. how long have you been working here is it. changing how old are. you do you go to school i don't know how much money it was other than just a little. $2500.00 taka is just $32.00 a month so we're putting the last of that and into old navy plants lately that says that it has
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a special this is what i was. this is old navy. old navy is owned by gap inc one of the largest clothing companies in the world. this is where a lot of america's clothes come from and it's a reality many companies don't want us to see this is one of very many sub contracting factories at the bottom of the supply chain in bangladesh seems completely unregulated completely on authorised there's no fire extinguisher no fire exit it's just a shack in someone's backyard. this morning we went to a finishing house and they had about 20 workers there more than half of them were under 14 there were girls as young as 12 making clothes for gap who really in a finishing section but the one 0 my gosh. oh my gosh.
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i mean for me. just so i just come believe so this is the time that gap should be stepped forward to make this. oh my gosh so see there how critical is the supply chain ease how critical these. gap declined to give us an on camera interview they did give us a statement though saying the products we found were quote either counterfeit or improperly acquired but through the bar codes on the tags we found at the finishing house we were able to match the garments to ones at old navy stores in the u.s. . the gap added that it quote strictly prohibits any vendor from employing underage workers. there is a fairy tale that major brands and retailers like ap and wal-mart tell to the
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public in this fairy tale gap and wal-mart are companies that are socially responsible and deeply committed to protecting the rights of workers and making every effort to inspect their factories and ensure that everything is on the up and that fairytale has very little to do with the reality of the supply chain for wal-mart for gap and worker rights issues are not a moral issue they're an issue of reputational risk and wal-mart and gap understand that their image in the eyes of the public has a very large impact on the degree to which they can get people to come to their stores and buy their goods and so to the extent that they can be convinced that their image will be damaged if they don't do the right thing for workers then they will make change. after a workers' rights activist who is still haunted by what she saw that day. is a feeling that when you were in the inside the building you can feel that how these workers forced to remove this window bar there just from bar 2 and then jumped my
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feeling was like nothing can be worse than these not think can be worse than these like seeing these people burned to ashes and their family crying. in front of you and they cannot find i mean they're going to identify these bodies with them is their beloved or not. nobody think about this these human faeces who are making clothes for them and dying in these factories if. nobody talking about their compensation nobody talking about their wages that think getting. even i would say even they don't even consider them to human. but they are really human they have needs now have a voice they wanted to speak out they have like to have a simple things.
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the certain looks positive 1 in terms of safety and security the body is set up by the international buyers as well as with the local bank or those governments benefactor association is to ensure the safety and security of the workers for us now the accord and alliance have set up certain benchmarks standard which is now followed the bank of those garments manufacture the export of association is following 1 up with those benchmarks that set up their own body which is probably the ready made garments sustainability council which will ensure the same benchmark and their interpreter themselves in the garment sector set up a over $1000000000.00 fund to ensure the safety and security for the workers.
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live. the exclusive undercover report that captured a peaceful protest ruthlessly put down by. the military they seem to be testing the ministry the standing over there with their guns ready this seems as if the start of the crackdown has now begun. now. that over the army from about 10 years on what has changed rewind inside me and the crackdown on al-jazeera. we understand the differences and similarities of cultures across the world so no matter how you take a al-jazeera personally the news and current affairs that matter to you. down to 0.
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people are quarantined around the world often the 1st death from corona virus is confirmed outside of china. the crisis forces stocks in china to plunge nearly 9 percent off the markets reopen. i'm kevin l. this is al jazeera live from doha also coming up protesters march in several iraqi cities against the newly announced prime minister. 18 people are killed in an attack in the kenya faso france announces it's sending 600 more troops to an african cell region. and the kansas city chiefs win the superbowl for the 1st time in 50 years.
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we begin the saw in china where a surge in the number of coronavirus cases has prompted officials to impose severe restrictions on a 2nd major city and residents in the eastern city of wenzel will only be allowed to send one family member out of the house every 2 days to buy necessities the illness is now responsible for the deaths of at least 361 people in china within 17000 people are infected a man from who became the 1st to die outside of china at a hospital in the philippines a number of african countries including botswana and angola have reported suspected cases and a growing number of airline.


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