tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN November 28, 2013 8:00pm-9:01pm PST
tangier is morocco. but from 1923 to 1956 it was loosely covered by the major powers, an international zone. for years it seemed everything was permitted. nothing was forbidden. at the northern tip of africa, a short ferry hop from spain, tangier was a magnet. if you were a bad boy of your time, you liked drugs, the kind of sex that was frowned upon at home and an affordable lifestyle set upon an exotic background, tangier was for you. matisse genet william burrows. many have come this way, staying awhile or hanging around. but no one stayed longer or became more associated with tangier than the novelist and
composer paul bowles. in works like "the sheltering sky" he created a dream that has become almost inseparable in the minds of many from reality. i'm here to find that dream city, the place burrows referred to as interzone. tangier like i said was a place of ex pats, people who dent like where the were and craved somewhere and something else.
the grand soco is the great way to the medina where you can find the casbah which means fortress by the way. in the middle of it all the petit soco, what bill burroughs called the last place. reasons for settling in tangier are diverse. but everyone sooner or later comes to cafe tingus. jonathan dawson came to this city over 20 years ago as a journalist and he never left. he lives a life not too distant from burroughs' fantasiers take, tea every day served by his manservant. he may not have a gazelle, but a pet rooster will do. and every day he makes the rounds of the cafes, seeing all the old faces, ending up sooner
or later here. >> so this is the petit soco? >> yes. it existed in phoenician times, roman times, english were here and now a very historic square. >> as a writer, i've noticed everybody who comes here to do an article does the same article. >> well, it's so damn boring. the all do the beat generation. and there are lots of other stories in morocco apart from that. but everyone likes the beats. tennessee williams, others were all here. but that's a small part of moroccan history. 15-year period. there's a life before that and a life after that. you're here. >> yes. it was inevitable. let's pretend those guys never came. what is this place? >> well, the reality is you can
read a paul burrows' story you can live it. people come to live it but the don't stay very long. the smoke some dope and stay here a few days and get bed bugs. end of story then the go home. >> they have a tradition of maude or outrageous behavior. >> the have a high tolerance of mad people. the moroccans are very toll plant people. the quite like madness as well. the kind of celebrate that a bit, you know? >> how moroccan is tangier? >> you can stand on the boulevard and see spain and gibraltar. but it's a very moroccan city. i'm 60 years old. the international time finished 1956. but they may have outnumbered
mo moroccans. >> the notion of living a life apart, of being somewhere else, there are those who like that feeling. i like that feeling. and then there are those who they may live somewhere else but they're not entirely comfortable. it's the difference annoys them or is a burden. >> and it frustrates them. some people have to leave home to find their home. i'm one of those people. where i didn't feel at home in the country i was born in at all. but here i feel okay. i feel very very happy here. >> there is indeed something special about this place. burroughs described the native quarter of tangier as a maze of sunless, twisting streets filled with blind alleys. its smell was particularly notable to him, including a mix of hashish, seared meat and
sewage. tangier before anything else is essentially a port city, with all the things that traditionally come with port cities. it's situated at the choke point between the atlantic ocean and the mediterranean sea. the moroccan coast is a rich fishing ground, and a lot of people make their living from the sea. on shore the use a method called senhal fishing, where weighted nets basically drag fish across the bottom of the sea. some of that fish, the good stuff anyway, ends up here. restaurant populairye or pop eyes. the place has a lot of names. but locals and ex pats have been coming here for years say it has some of the best cuisine in town. the owner and head chef is from the nearby riff mountains.
and he sources a lot of his stuff, his produce and greens from there, and he's real proud of them. the back room of the place is dedicated to sorting and drying various herbs which he blends into a secret mix he claims has all sorts of healthful and boner-inspired benefits. look. if every dish i've been told over the years is going to make me strong, i'd have a permanent pup tent going on down there. so
i take all that with a grain of salt. >> hello. >> his son hassan delivers the food. it all starts with fresh olives. they're in season now, and roasted walnuts. some warm, very good bread. >> squishy. >> oh, yeah. you get this stuff. everybody gets it. a pokey puree' of figs, raisins, strawberries, full of the chef's herbs and spices of course.
>> yeah, yeah, i get it. it's supposed to make me more manly. you know what? i'm eating. let's not talk about that, okay, sunshine? what is a tajin, anyway? a traditional moroccan stew that can include vegetables, meat or fish. tonight, baby shark, calimari with fresh mung spinach. the dome top is supposed to force the condensation back into the dish and keep it
most and tender. >> it's delicious. maybe it's these greens and aromatics and herbs. i have no idea what they are. never had anything like that. tangier version of farm to table. wow, what's that? thank you. >> and a whole turbo brushed with olive oil, salt and pepper and some coriander grilled over
the coals. cuddled up next to the fish, tiny shark cabobs. cute. >> wow, spectacular. >> good value. all this for 20 bucks? >> i think we did a pretty good job on mr. fish. that will teach you. >> he's like that guy you're tripping and this dude? >> for dessert, strawberries, pine nuts and honey. like the whole meal it's eccentric and delicious. >> thank you. >> i haven't had so much fruits and nuts since altamont. >> i told nick, i said, nick,
this is a bad crap. get back on the job. he's like no, man, we can't disappoint them. we're aig. and we're here. to help secure retirements and protect financial futures. to help communities recover and rebuild. for companies going from garage to global. on the ground, in the air, even into space. we repaid every dollar america lent us. and gave america back a profit. we're here to keep our promises. to help you realize a better tomorrow. from the families of aig, happy holidays.
it's a challenge to balance work and family. ♪ that's why i love adt. i can see what's happening at my business from anywhere. ♪ [ male announcer ] now manage and help protect your small business remotely with adt. arm and disarm your alarm, watch secure video in real time, and even adjust your lights and thermostat wherever you are. with adt, you get 24/7 protection through our exclusive fast response monitoring. you can be confident that adt is always there for you. hey, lisa. is that the delivery we've been waiting for?
[ male announcer ] and now you can get adt monthly service for your business starting at less than $2 a day. [ woman ] i love the convenience of adt. i can finally be in two places at once. [ male announcer ] call today to get adt for less than $2 a day. helping protect your business, is our business. adt. always there. but i didn't want her towait see my psoriasis. no matter how many ways i try to cover up, my psoriasis keeps showing up. all her focus is on me. but with these dry, cracked, red, flaky patches, i'm not sure if i want it to be. this is more than uncomfortable, it's unacceptable. visit psoriasis.com where you can get refusing to hide, a free guide filled with simple strategies for living well with psoriasis. learn more at psoriasis.com and talk to your dermatologist.
year nor changed my clothes or removed them, except to stick a needle every hour in the fibrous gray wooden flesh of terminal addiction. i never cleaned or dusted the room. empty ampoule boxes and garbage piled up to the ceiling. light and water long since turned off for nonpayment. i did absolutely nothing. i could look at the end of my shoe for eight hours. i was only roused to action when the hourglass of junk ran out." the words of william seward burroughs, one of my heroes. he came to tangier in 1953, shortly after shooting his wife to death in a drunken accident in mexico city. he was a heroin addict, a homosexual and an inspiration to those protohipsters who became
known as the beats. burroughs was not a hipster. there was nothing beatnik about him. he was a somewhat stuffy, well-dressed st. louis son of a good family gone wrong. he was also to my mind the greatest writer of the whole damn bunch. on the road, you can have it. his classic "naked lunch" was written here. a nonlinear, dark, dry humored searingly critical and satirical and profane masterpiece. burroughs was apparently high for much of the process on heroin or locally valuable prescription opiate. but of course the daily staple of many in these parts, h rarkz -- hashish, keef and maldune.
hashish is the concentrated thc resin from the cannibis plant as well as the leaves and flowers that have been separated from the buds compressed into sheet or brick-like form. keif is the part of the plant containing only the strongest concentration of psychoactive ingredients. majune is a confection made from keef, fruits, nuts, chocolate and honey. i was, of course, fascinated by this product since reading about it and inquired of some local contacts who shall necessarily go unnamed. how was it made? this is what i wanted to know. they were kind enough to demonstrate. keif is first chopped into type granules and slowly added to butter and chocolate over a low heat to toast it and release the psychotropic goodies within. while the binder element is slow cooking in the pan, it's blended
with cash you -- cashews, almonds, walnuts and dried fruit. this will be the framework to suspend the thc-laden goodness in the next step. the cannabis-laced butter chocolate is added along with plenty of honey to bind together all the ingredients. then mix. last, you roll the entirety of the mixture into a ball and either refrigerate or dig right in. of course, network standards and practices prohibit me from even tasting this delicious and reportedly mind-altering treat. i'm guessing, anyway. so until i see chris, john and wolf doing bong riffs in "the situation room," i will, of course, abide by these rules because that's the kind of guy i am.
there's one particular cafe in the heart of the kasbah that's drawn in foreign dignitaries, rock stars, aristocrats and artists since it opened its doors in 1943. cafe baba. sweet mint tea in a thick slow-moving haze of smoke. it smells like my dorm room 1972. good evening, hello. this is george bajalia and zeneb, and i should say right now that i have no direct knowledge or awareness of george or zaneb smoking anything illegal substances or do i have any recollection of me doing anything untoward in their presence. because that would be, like, wrong, dude. george is here on a fulbright scholar and zaneb is an artist. others in the room, however, well, don't give me that innocent look, you young punks. i know somebody in here is smoking reefer.
how stoned are people here? >> we can ask, just ask. >> you're not getting totally ripped here? >> no. it's a functional part of daily life. for a long time, the rest of the country and the government didn't really like tangier a whole lot. it was seedy. there were foreigners who came here and -- >> it makes money. >> he sees it as a future economic super power as i understand it. taking condos boutique hotelses that good or bad? >> for moroccans, it's work, but of course ex-pats want to keep tangier like they know it before. >> i mean, this cafe is very similar to the way it was, but there's a tv right there. >> flat screen. >> that's why people come here. they come to watch soccer games. >> you can well imagine the american guy who's lived in tangier for 30 years. he comes in, there's a flat screen tv on the wall. he's like -- what? you've ruined the authenticity
and the integrity, but the moroccan guy at the next table is, like, wait a minute, asshole, you have a flat screen at home. i want one, too. what is wrong with that? >> there are people here who probably have never heard of -- if you follow that, there's no progression, no progress, no change. >> the think about cafe baba, just sitting here, taking in the atmosphere, you begin to appreciate the place. >> there's something different happening here. >> contact high, whoa, i'm hungry. wait until the spanish tortilla dude across the street opens for business. this is abdileh. he specializes in one thing, and he makes it well. he makes an omelet. it's like a spanish tortilla. but like stonier. the potatoes are boiled, diced, meat with beaten eggs and cooked in a cast iron skillet. oh, yeah.
the eggs. the egg man. i am me and we are you and where is my omelet, dude, because i am hungry. >> one, two, three? >> abdileh is waiting for you when you come stumbling out of cafe baba. coincidence or not? you be the judge. >> ketchup and mayonnaise. everything. >> ketchup and mayonnaise? sure. why not? condiment options i will be hard pressed to turn down at this precise moment anyway. >> love the mayonnaise. >> hmm. dude, that's awesome. i'll have 12 more. before christ♪ ♪ our plan is in place.
♪ we've rigged up a trap to catch sight of his face. ♪ ♪ if only we could, just stay awake... ♪ ♪ how old is the oldest person you've known? we gave people a sticker and had them show us. we learned a lot of us have known someone who's lived well into their 90s. and that's a great thing. but even though we're living longer, one thing that hasn't changed much is the official retirement age. ♪ the question is how do you make sure you have the money you need to enjoy all of these years. ♪ before using her new bank of america credit card, which rewards her for responsibly managing
her card balance. before receiving $25 toward her balance each quarter for making more than her minimum payment on time each month. tracey got the bankamericard better balance rewards credit card, which fits nicely with everything else in life she has to balance. that's the benefit of responsibility. apply online or visit a bank of america near you.
paul bowles lived in tangier for 50 years, and sherry nutting was part of his inner circle near the end of his life. she was his friend, record keeper of sorts, and photographer. you arrived when? >> i came in the '70s, but went down to marrakesh. in '86, i wrote a letter to paul bowles and said i had to meet him and take his picture. he wrote back and said, come and visit. well, i never left.
>> a lot of people came here to live that dream or to live that life. has the reality come to resemble his perception of the reality? >> the tangier i see is paul bowles. i still see it. i still feel it. you can still find the magic. >> the market or souk in tangier is one of the best in morocco. the vendors are still pretty impressive. wander the markets long enough and you're sure to stumble across the unexpected. hooves? sure. how about a lamb's head? sure. here nothing goes to waste. charbroiled to chris crispy punter perfection it's served on a crusty lunch bread. not so adventurous? the grant socco's indoor market officers a variety of smoked, cured and fresh meat. smells good in here. the stuff looks good. i've heard this cheese is amazing. >> it's good, yeah.
>> could i have one? >> a berber favorite, fresh goat cheese wrapped in palm leaves. >> yeah, they're beautiful, aren't they? >> it's good. [ speaking foreign language ] >> a little cheese, a little flat bread, the perfect moroccan breakfast to go. we're headed in to the jabal foothills in the mountain range about 80 kilometers of tangier to a place called jajouka. the village is home to the people of the al sharif tribe, which loosely translated means the saintly people. jajouka is also home to one of morocco's better-known musicians, bashir attar. jazz and rock and roll musicians have traveled all over the world to jajouka to meet this the guy. he's a lineage of master
musicians, all from this small mountain village. ♪ >> famously dubbed as a 4,000-year-old rock band, by william burroughs, bashir, his son and these musicians maintain one of the oldest still living musical traditions on earth. ♪ we're invited for dinner. it's family style, of course, beginning with braywine, like a kefta pocket, hand formed envelopes of dough seasoned with seasoned beef, baked until golden and then crisped in oil. i'm good for now -- well, one more. uh-oh, here we go. the main event, tagine of
chicken. >> welcome, tony. >> thank you. just gorgeous. first, chopped onions, garlic, parsley and turmeric are blended with olive oil. the bird is generously coated an stuffed. then after simmering in a touch of olive oil and water, it is fried until crispy, served with roasted all mondays and olives, paprika and ginger. nice. >> he smells the food. >> like anywhere else in the arab world, eating with your hands, always the right one, is proper dining etiquette. >> this is spinach. >> it's wild spinach. it grows in the mountains? >> yeah. >> vocalized chopped mountain spinach.
garlic, cilantro, hot and black peppers finished with lemon and olive oil. that's delicious. >> i heard you are the greatest taste for food in the world, man. >> i love good food. this is good. >> yeah. >> after dinner some fruit, some mint tea, and let the music begin. for centuries, the master musicians of jajouka have been the musical choice of the royal families of morocco, excused by the country's rulers from manual labor to devote themselves to musical training. ♪ ♪
♪ their powerful style of sufi transmusic has inspired many music seekers, including most notably perhaps paul bowles, who wrote about them and recorded them and spread the word. brian jones was here and recorded "the pipes of pan at jajouka" with these musicians. the word spread and the master musicians have ended up being featured on albums with annette parker and nacio jones and the rolling stones. for years, if you were a rock god, you had to come here, dig the crazy percussion, strings
and pipes that took you to another place. it's intricate, hypnotic, beautiful. if you're in the right frame of mind, mesmerizing. just by talking to a helmet. it grabbed the patient's record before we even picked him up. it found out the doctor we needed was at st. anne's. wiggle your toes. [ driver ] and it got his okay on treatment from miles away. it even pulled strings with the stoplights. my ambulance talks with smoke alarms and pilots and stadiums. but, of course, it's a good listener too. [ female announcer ] today cisco is connecting the internet of everything. so everything works like never before.
movie in your head, play the bogie character you never were, all against an all too willing, all too genuine backdrop. ordinarily just about the last thing in the world i would be interested in doing is antiquing, but buried in the network of twisting narrow streets of the old city is boutique majid, owned an operated by this man, and he's one interesting guy. thank you. >> come in. >> when he was a little kid back in the '60s, majid left his hometown of fez and came here where he would earn money emptying ashtrays at wild parties being thrown here by wealthy ex-pats. he saw what people would buy for themselves, how they decorate their homes and he started to look around for himself, scoring, then reselling art and antiques. wow. it became something of an
obsession. now his artifacts from morocco, and all across northern africa, are bought by collectors from all over the world. carpets, antiques, woodcarvings, jewelry and old doors. wow, these are incredibly beautiful. tell me about that. >> amber, coral, shells. these used to be currency. these shells. >> how old is this? >> early '20s. the amber is millions of years old. >> how much are you selling it for? >> by weight. quite heavy piece this one, 429 grams. so it comes like 42,000 -- >> so that's how much in dollars? >> almost $5,000. >> about $5,000. >> almost. >> should we look at another floor? >> oh, yes, follow me. there's a nice collection of things from sahara.
>> so you travel a lot? >> not like you. [ laughter ] >> oh, this is for pounding -- >> yes, this is from the gon tribe. from mali. >> how much will this sell for do you think? >> around $300. >> really? for this? that's very reasonable. i'll be buying that. that's going to be an old friend. >> also memory. >> also memory of tangier as well. >> majid suggests lunch at andalous, a local's only place nearby. >> as a moroccan, so many people westerners come with a romantic notion of a tangier the read about in books. do people have a realistic expectation? are they looking for morocco or this phantasm? >> it is a phantasm. it is. when you get here, you know morocco, you feel that you are in morocco but you are not. there's a lot of mediterranean attached to this town.
also the history, people hear story about tangier that it was -- when i first came in the '60s, everybody said that you came late. >> right. >> now i'm saying the same thing as the young now. they come and they saw wow, i say -- >> what was better about those days? >> well, for me at that time i was young, and it was the boom of hippies, and it was a destination. you know, cafe baba, meet bob dylan, and the parties was going on. i miss these kind of parties. people fly from everywhere to the party, and they make the whole town move. blue and white party, white and gold party, hat party, you know, it's amazing. you see people coming in with amazing hats, like a cage with a bird, extravagant hats, you know. they put so much energy and time into the parties, you know? look at -- >> now, that looks good.
>> tomatoes brushed with local olive oil, garlic and coriander. liver kabobs, beef liver to be exact, grilled over charcoal. that looks very nice. for fish, a bit of swordfish and and some orange roughy. >> that is just beautiful. >> how do you like the tomato? >> the swordfish is amazing. so how else have things changed? >> you saw how many tourists there was today? >> they were in a hurry. >> if they come to the shop, they even try to avoid your eye contact. they afraid if you get my eye contact, i'm going to rip you off or -- >> or make them buy something they don't want. >> i don't know. i don't know. >> do they buy? >> they don't even say hello. >> they don't buy? >> of course, we call them penguins. they have short hands that don't
when tangier was interzone back in the day, it seemed to some i'm sure as if the ex-pats outnumbered the locals. that was never true, but you certainly could live a life apart, make your own world within the existing one. reinvent yourself and live entirely in a universe of your own creation. far from the grand socco is a 14-acre estate owned by christopher gibbs, a well-known dealer of antiques and longtime ex-pat. today, he's having a garden party. who's coming? jonathan you know. maggie dean is from scotland. she's been living here for more than a decade. gp, a frenchman who has a hand on a lot of businesses, including a cafe in the kasbah.
years lived here, unknown. bianca, an american, she's been here forever, led many lives, i gather, and occasionally translates book from magrabbi to english. >> and the dash iindashinging b artist from chile', who's been living and working in the kasbah since a hasty exit from puerto rico for reasons never fully explained. on the menu, bastilla, a meat or often pigeon pie as traditional moroccan as it gets. today made by gibbs' full-time cooks, jamilla and fatima. it's chicken slow-cooked, pulled or shredded and folded into an egg mixture. cooked in a reduced stock from the boil. this is layered with blanched almonds, powdered sugar and cinnamon. the whole lot is wrapped in a
crepe-like dough. after baking to a golden crispiness, the final touch is a dusting of even more cinnamon and sugar. it's got a sweet savory thing going on, and it's quite tasty. >> if you get nervous when you go in a room and you touch the light switch, and the lights don't come on, you shouldn't be living in this country. >> what was that first moment when you said i could live here? >> i'm still quite unsure about that. i came here first in 1958. when it was quite different. everyone wore native dress, but islam still the throbbing motor of life here. i have a very tender feelings from morocco and the friendliness and the courtesy of the people and its children.
it's bonjour, missieur. >> i always feel welcomed here. i never consider it's mine. it's theirs and they've allowed me to feel here in a nice way. i feel recognition. they know who i am. they know who i am. >> there is a side by side aspect to life here that's very unusual. >> very unusual here. it's mostly you can do whatever you want if you do it with good manners. >> it is a station of the cross for, you know, bad boys of culture. i mean, rambo. iggy pop. the stones. burroughs writes and came here to be a writer. >> he was a junkie before he was a writer. >> as so many of us were. >> a place to think of yourself as a writer you would come here and somehow working within a romantic tradition. >> yes. >> burroughs said right up front, writer to me lounged around in a smoking jacket or a
cav tan and smoking hash pipe or open yum pipe littered with sleeping boys. >> yes. >> or girls. >> to what extent did that world exist and to what extent was that world created by the people that showed up with that expectation? >> since bill departed, iep, dear, wonderful, marvelous man, he's gone, it's tame now. >> it is tame. >> well, he was -- >> it's genteel now. >> he was the very opposite of genteel. he was an outlaw of every society. >> my husband knew him very well and he was saying that i cured him of being a drug addict. i said how? he said, i turned him into an alcoholic. >> who smokes hashish at this table? please raise your hand. >> is the camera on? >> put your hand up, bianca. [ laughter ] this was the hardest decision i've ever had to make.
jim, i adore the pool at your hotel. anna, your hotels have wondrous waffle bars. ryan, your hotels' robes are fabulous. i have twelve of them. twelve? shhhh, i'm worth it& what i'm trying to say is, it's so hard to pick just one of you, so i'm choosing all of you with hotels.com. a loyalty program that requires no loyalty. plus members can win a free night every day only at hotels.com
thank you, yes. most cities in the islamic world, getting a beer can be difficult. not here. as long as you're outside the medina, nearly anything goes. tangier reverts to its libertine past. here, western influences become very apparent. ♪ any night of the week is a good night for young moroccons to take to the streets. he's from a generation of moroccans far removed from the the romantic conceits of the bowles-burroughs era. he's invited me out for a casual snack. tuna, eggs and a healthy wad of mayo.
french fries within the sandwich. this is delicious. by the way. the bread here is very good. you work in magazine journalist? >> yes. i'm not a journalist but i own an urban magazine here in tangier to inform moroccans we are living in a place that's pretty special. it is not a place for burroughs or paul bowles or other people came to tangier. the city has something which makes it different from other cities. >> what about young artists, young writers, young musicians? do they come here expecting this romantic paul bowles wonderland of the '50s? >> some were. some weren't. too bohemian. >> too bohemian? >> yeah. they thought that coming and being an artist -- >> is going to be enough? >> is going to be enough. today it is not enough. it's pretty tough for them, and most of them pack their bags. >> right. >> today we have so many investments going on here in
tangier thanks to our king. investors are here. tourists are attracted. but the most important part of it is we should keep the old parts of the city intact. the kasbah, the medina. that's what's hard to do because when you have a european purchasing power coming over here to tangier -- >> they come like we come. we embrace it. other people want to come. and then we throw up. we'll, will tangier's unique character survive? >> i hope so. i really hope so. >> tangier is morocco. always was morocco. and recently the country's leadership seems to have embraced it. in all its ill reputed glory.
the days of predatory poets in search of literary inspiration and young flesh are probably over for good. hippies can just as easily get their bong rips in portland or peoria. but the good stuff, the real good stuff, the sounds and smells and the look of tangier, what you see and hear when you lean out the window and take it all in, that's here to stay. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com
chances are you haven't been to this place. chances are this is a place you've never seen. other than maybe blurry cell phone videos, old black-and-white newsreels from world war ii. chances are bad things were happening in the footage you saw. myanmar, after 50 years of nightmare, something unexpected it happening here, and it's