tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN February 3, 2014 1:00am-2:01am PST
i envy you zack zamboni. and we're out. nice end [ bells tolling ] ♪ >> we go up this beautiful mountain. this incredible town. it goes back to the 12th century. people trudge up the hill to the beautiful church to take the walk that michael corleone took. now and forever more it will be sort of "the godfather" theme park, where they're playing "the godfather" theme over and over. >> i think most thoughtful
sicilians are disgusted by this. ♪ >> imagine that waking up every day. as one bus after another filled with japanese tourists go up there, oh, look, michael corleone got married there. oh, it's so fantastic. [ laughter ] ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪ sha la la la la ♪ sha la la la la la la ♪
♪ >> it's one of the most beautiful places in europe, a place whose roots are very much the roots of the town where i live, but somehow, i've never been able to get it right. to tell the story, any story of sicily. it's the biggest island in the mediterranean. two main towns of palermo and catania on opposite sides. i'm done a show in palermo before. it was an epic goat rodeo, a failure of humiliating scale. this time i was going to get it right. there's the sicily we know from films, an evocative, deeply felt history that's not quite reality but cool anyway, right? there's the simple fact of its location, tucked away under the boot of italy, part of but not really part of that country. its own language, culture, its own history of norman, arab,
spanish, roman, turkish, egyptian interlopers, all leaving their mark and their influence. i grew up in new jersey, which was pretty much sicily on the hudson. the italian-americans next door weren't from milan, i could tell you that much. i guess what i'm telling you is i figured this will be easy. ♪ villa moraci del ateliner, a certified hotel, restaurant and working farm, that in this case produces olive oil. how many acres of property do you have? >> it's about 40 acres. it's one of the oldest organic farm in the mountains. >> this is guido, the proprietor. wow. so that's where potatoes come from. how freakin' hard can it be to make an awesome show in sicily? eat the nice food, drink the
wine in an idyllic villa in the countryside, outside catania. how low impact can it get? so, the plan was we go fishing. we get some fresh octopus, maybe some cuttlefish and explore the bounty of the surrounding waters, all while working on our tans with the local chef, fisherman, man of the sea. he's experienced. he knows where to get it good. >> you like the ocean? >> i love it. >> how do you see it in italian? >> ricci. >> one of my favorite things to eat. this is ture, my host. what else is out there, octopus? >> octopus and also cuttlefish. >> oh, yeah. >> and i want to try and find some small abalone, we call the
bucce, and small clams. i think they will be really full. >> i'm thinking really? are these prime fishing waters? i don't know about this. with all this boat traffic and all these people so close to the action, i can't see much of anything living down there. >> okay. we anchor here. >> but i am famous for my optimism, so i dutifully suited up for what was advertised as a three-hour cruise. ♪ so i get in the water, and i'm paddling around. and splash! suddenly, there's a dead sea creature sinking slowly to the seabed in front of me. are they kidding me? i'm thinking can this be happening? splash. there's another one. splash, another rigor mortis
half-frozen freakin' octopus, but it goes on. one dead cuttlefish, octopus, frozen sea urchin after another, splash, splash, splash. each specimen drops among the rocks or along the sea floor, to be heroically discovered by ture moments later and proudly shown off to camera, like i'm not actually watching as the confederate in the next boat over hurls them into the water one after another. i'm no marine biologist, but i know dead octopus when i see one. pretty sure they don't drop from the sky and sink straight to the bottom. >> how many do we have? three? >> yeah. >> okay. >> i tried to get some patate now and also small abalone. >> strangely, everyone else believes the hideous sham unfolding before our eyes, doing their best to ignore the blindingly obvious.
[ speaking foreign language ] >> then they gave up and just dumped a whole bag of dead fish into the sea. at this point, i begin desperately looking for signs of life, hoping that one of them would stir, become revived. i'm frantically swimming around the bottom littered with dead things looking for one that's still twitching so can i hold it up to the camera and end this misery. but no, my shame will be absolute. for some reason, i feel something snap, and i slide quickly into a spiral of near hysterical depression. is this what it's come to, i'm thinking, as another dead squid narrowly misses my head? almost a decade later back in the same country, and i'm still desperately staging fishing scenes, seeding the oceans with supermarket seafood, complicit in a shameful, shameful incident
of fakery? but there i was, bobbing listlessly in the water, dead sea life sinking to the bottom all around me. you've got to be pretty immune to the world to not see some kind of obvious metaphor. i've never had a nervous breakdown before, but i tell you from the bottom of my heart, something fell apart down there and it took a long, long time after the end of this damn episode to recover. ♪
♪ >> no need to boil. we'll be ready without it. [ speaking foreign language ] >> raw clams, abalone and a heart-warming beach scene surrounded with a gaggle of curious and hungry kids. it was at this point about the only possible way for ture to redeem himself. you'll notice, i'm not there. i'm sitting in a nearby cafe
pounding one negrone after another in a smoldering, miserable rage. our evening meal will be at ture's place which is just up the hill in turmina, but by the time dinner rolls around, i'm ripped to the [ muted ]. did i mention it's my birthday? i've had three hours bobbing around on a pitching boat, a couple more hours getting looped and a couple more hours on the restaurant so i'm gone, baby, gone. so i don't remember any of this. any of it. >> so how is your day today? >> good. a nice boat trip. a little swim. i would be told later that a gentleman named tomaso joined me for dinner. also, someone on the crew mentioned that his wife was present and that she didn't say much, presumably because this was not her preferred way to spend her birthday. >> hi. >> tony. >> this is my passion. i like to find the old variety of olive, and one of this is white. >> so that's original. >> original.
>> you don't find it anyplace else. >> parent tlaey apparently, there were these white olives harvested from some secret tree only ture knows about. maybe it's next to his secret fishing hole. there was great sicilian wine apparently, and apparently i drank quite a lot of it. there was bread and olive oil, abalone served raw in the shell, baby sardine called neonata, also served raw with a splash of citrus and salt. >> and this is arda, the baby sardine, totally raw with no match ingredients to taste better the fish. salud. >> thank you. >> if you ask a sicilian, right, say where you come from? the correct answer should be i'm italian. >> right. >> no, we say i'm sicilian. >> is sicily italy? >> yes. >> should it be? >> i don't know, but we used to
have influence from britains, normans, arab, spanish. so, basically, we are a mix. we're a blender. >> oh, look, my octopus! i remember personally catching that one. it was a mighty struggle, too. no, actually i don't. >> yeah, the octopus. >> pretty, beautiful little shrimp. very tender, the octopus, very nice. and another traditional speciality. i'm told they call this tuna tartar. and cuttlefish, i recognize you, my friend. how traditional is this to sicily? >> i think from the part of the sea they almost eat a roll. >> always. >> yes. >> but fisherman only, fishing communities only or in restaurants? >> no. >> always as long as you could arrived, you see crudo like this? >> no. i see crudo in the poor family. >> so, it's not like there's japanese influence, but the japanese sort of gave everybody
permission to eat traditional foods, their own traditional food. what are the great mother sicilian classic dishes? >> the anchovy. anchovy and parmesana. [ speaking foreign language ] >> that's with the sardine. >> yeah, but it's an explosion of flower, but this plate, it's arab, born in the period when sicily was very poor. >> this i like. i even remember it. pasta al fino, actually a true sicilian classic made with fennel, pine nuts, saffron and anchovy, served alongside some sardines that have been curing in chestnuts and salt for days, then lightly fried in oil. >> we have to use our hand, use our hand to eat the fish. >> no problem. i must have shrunk back to bed
somehow, collapsed in a sodden drunken heap of self-loathing. i would ordinarily have turned on the porn channel and maybe loaded up on prescription meds, but there's no tv at the agri tourismo. ould be hectic. angie's list saves me a lot of time. after reading all the reviews i know i'm making the right choice. online or on the phone, we help you hire right the first time. with honest reviews on over 720 local services. keeping up with these two is more than a full time job, and i don't have time for unreliable companies. angie's list definitely saves me time and money. for over 18 years we've helped people take care of the things that matter most. join today.
♪ i love the films "godfather 1" and "godfather 2," but they had nothing to do with any organized crime from reality. they're opera, magnificent opera, but basically, a morality tale about loyalty and destroying the things that you claim to love and want to protect. actual organized crime members and literally speaking a bunch of lazy ass sociopaths who have no problem stealing from their own harder working neighbors. here in sicily, they are interested and less glamorous than gambling and prostitution. they are and have traditionally
been a gigantic parasitical organism, one that has now grown to be of mere equal size to its host. mary is originally from new york, but she's been living here in palermo for half a century now. she's a food writer and at one time a reformer for social justice, which is a dicey thing to be here. you've been here all this time? well, why? >> well, i came for a year. it was going to be a year between college and graduate school. i just finished college. i met a man, and therein lies the why. i married a sicilian and i've lived here ever since. >> piccolo napoli, a restaurant like a lot of others around here except for the quality of its food. tell me about where we are, first of all. >> okay, the father and mother of the present owner opened this
in 1951, when there was a wonderful photograph there on the wall of the opening day. it started as a tavern and has become a well-known and much appreciated restaurant now. it's very straightforward sicilian cooking at its best. ♪ >> we start with some typical things, the kind of things i deeply love, the kind of simple good things that make me happy. panelli, which is a fritter made from chickpeas, caponata, a sweet and sour eggplant dish, kind of like ratatouille but more arab in its influence, a plate of olives and white wine produced from a small batch vineyard run by mary and her husband. this is a panelli? >> panelli. chickpea flour probably came in the arabs, maybe even earlier, because chickpeas have been around for a long time. >> and this is the famous caponata and about as sicilian as it gets. >> caponata and cannoli are the two internationally known sicilian dishes.
>> this is what i've been waiting for. this is what i wanted sicily to be, something to soothe my shattered soul. it doesn't take much, a bowl of good pasta. in any case, the famous spaghetti al nero di sepia, spaghetti in cuttelfish ink, also pasta with swordfish, eggplant and tomatoes. >> okay. >> ah, beautiful. perfect. perfect pasta. very happy with that. >> good. i know you've been looking forward to it, so i'm glad it's good. it's an expensive city for some things because the consumer is paying -- >> more. >> -- more so that the store can
afford to pay its extortion money. the big change that has happened is that up until the mid-'80s, the late '80s, there were a great many sicilians who thought if they were honest and didn't have anything to do with the mafia, they could live without being affected by the mafia. apparently, 80% of the businesses in palermo and 70% in the rest of italy that pay extortion. >> that's a lot. >> that's a lot. >> but not everybody pays the bite. a small but growing coalition of businesses have joined a group, called adioiozzia, a grassroots organization taking a stand against the mafia's traditional mere total control over the food chain, from farm to table. i come out of the restaurant business in new york. you got taxed with every laundry order every time they took your trash away. it was built in to all your basic services. >> here it's much more going around. christmas and easter.
>> guy comes by. >> the guy comes by. i mean, it's plain and simple extortion. >> given that that's a pretty straightforward situation, some of these guys who banded together, what happens? the guy shows up, says "i'm not paying you." what happens next? >> well, apparently now the mafia has decided that it isn't worthwhile bothering with the people who belong to the group. there's so many others out there and why look for trouble. how true it is, i don't know. >> right. >> to belong to the group, you have to sign a pledge that you will not pay and that if you are approached, will you go to the police. >> right. >> then they send you to lawyers and to another organization which deals with the people who are actually having trouble. it's incredibly complicated. i mean, there are no easy answers. >> right. >> what about big farm? what about some of the things that are -- that are happening on a much more legitimate level? >> i mean, who is more
destructive worldwide? you can make a very good argument. >> that's horrible. i'm upset because i sound as if i'm making apologies for the mafia. it's just i think what has happened, that having lived 50 years in sicily, i'm much more skeptical than most americans. >> right. >> i don't know that -- >> i know what you're saying. you're saying you're not so sure that a mafia-free italy would be that much more functional? >> no, no, absolutely. >> i'm not so sure. >> i'm not so sure at all. but i am constantly amused by the fact that 45 years ago, if i said to americans, i said i live in sicily. sicily? how did a nice girl like you end up in a place like that? >> really? >> now it's oh, on a farm in sicily, how romantic. oh, i envy you. so, perception of sicily -- >> it has changed. >> it has changed, enormously. enormously. >> in 2007 there were only 160
adoiopizzio members, and now over 800. pretty cool considering we're talking about a group who have demonstrated no regret or hesitation in killing judges, politicians, police, prosecutors. back to catania, and when you're talking late-night dining options, you're talking one thing, the enticing smell of smoke wafting through the streets, a smell that's enticingly equine. i smell rainbow dash. >> yes, yes! >> yes! >> anthony and marco, a couple of sicilians and aficionados. >> this is one of the older side, famous, you know, families of mafia, you know, that grows
in crime organization here. >> oh, right here? >> yeah, yeah, yeah. nowadays seems to be like a bit more quiet because they are all getting arrested, so they prefer to sell meat against drugs. ♪ >> so, right over there you can bet on a horse? >> we can bet horses, yes. people like to bet horses, and here you eat the one that lose. >> right. >> the loser goes on the fire. that's not a nice thing, but, i mean, sometimes it happens for real, huh? >> cycle of life. all right. [ speaking foreign language ] >> so why horse? where does this tradition come from? >> from arabs. maybe also egyptians. then we have greeks, 750 years before christ. then we have romans. because we have to say that sicilian are big bastards.
of course, because we are being conquered by everybody. also our dialect. there are many words that are understood by other people. if i say sicilian dialect word, maybe an arab can understand me, an italian no, because italian language comes from latin, something different. we are sicilians before to be italians. >> right. >> remember this. >> i'll never forget. >> look at this side of the meat. it's yellow, it's not white. when it's yellow, it means that the horse has been bred eating fresh grass. [ speaking foreign language ] >> perfecto. okay. >> tear and go. >> yeah.
>> you like the taste? >> it's good. >> it's a bit sweet, huh? >> mm-hmm. >> simple, you don't need nothing. horse meat. basically, it's loved by quite everybody here, you know? we can have it for meatballs, and we can have a horse meatball. >> as you wish. i'll try anything. >> make some different things, you know. >> bread, parmesan cheese, pecorino. >> right. >> parsley, eggs, and, of course, horse. >> and horse. it is very tasty. let's put it this way, when my daughter asks me for a pony, i'm bringing her here, pointing at that grill and saying here's your [ muted ] pony.
pig is raising the profile of the pig here. >> smell of shit everywhere, yeah? look, look, here now, the noise. the car. they will arrive. fantastica. >> like any good-tasting high-quality pig, the secret is largely, what were they fed, how did they live, were they happy? >> i'm a hunter. i've never seen so many in once. it's like i feel -- >> you should be shooting something. >> yeah. >> a poorly fed pig who lived his life in squalor, stress and fear makes for bad pork. this is why we should treat animals well, not just because that's the nice thing to do, but because it makes them provably more delicious. [ speaking foreign language ] >> chestnuts, acorns, roots and
stuff foraged from the hills, supplemented by some nice fattening grain during the winter months when wild food is less easy and less plentiful. >> they catch here the animal. only with the trap. >> right. >> it's a shame that they don't let you shoot. >> i like pigs. not to hang out with, to eat. i don't have a tattoo of a pig or anything, but i like them fine, and when given the opportunity to shoot one in the brain or see one shot in the brain so that i may suck on its entrails and other parts, i'm down. that's what is called cheering me up from some manic depression. >> bang, and this pig is like pauly, you won't see him no more. even with the brain dead, the heart still goes on beating, sort of like, pick a kardashian.
in the case, however, the last few beats of the heart are absolutely necessary to pump all that red, red crave into a bucket for sanguinacco. looking good. >> so fast, incredible. >> there's a kardashian joke there somewhere. kim gets ready for the big day. it's date night at khloe's house. real housewife gets ready for summer. grooming tips from teresa giudice. i got a million of them. let's hope kanye never has to see this. oh. >> we hang now. bye. bye. >> then, get to work. >> okay.
>> very fast, eh? >> all those good bits, the lungs, kidneys, they get cooked slowly in fat with garlic, chili pepper, a little wine. is the meat also, what, the liver? [ speaking foreign language ] >> so, it's all of its interior? >> all of the interior with a little bit of fat. >> fat. it's like pork krveconfit. >> yeah. >> oh, that's pretty. meanwhile, the intestinal casings get filled with blood and gently poached until creamy, bloody delicious. and a nice spread of homemade cured meats, local cheese and homemade wine. let the party begin. so, what do we have here? let's identify these products. cappicola?
>> cappicola. >> that's the slice -- >> prosciutto. lardo. >> pancetta? oh, that looks good. >> the cheese is local, provolone. this is the ricotta and just cooked in the oven. >> mm-hmm. the bread? >> the bread is from the ankle, and they have also salami and they have sausages. >> and this cheese? >> canestrato. >> and what do you call that dish? >> just on a pan. >> right, beautiful. mm-mmm. that's good. >> oh, the best moment of the day. >> indeed. oh, yeah.
>> what do you think about this? >> it's good. but you know, for me, the ricotta, really good. >> i think it's a complete country, this place. you discover sicily, an aspect that i think very few people know. this is incredible. even the bread, is the old lady, that she made. >> oh. you think of sicily, you think of family, you think of food. this is more like it. ♪ female announcer ] new fiber one protein cereal. ♪ yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah! ♪ we are one, under the sun ♪ under the sun... [ female announcer ] fiber and protein. together as one. introducing new fiber one protein cereal.
[ speaking foreign language ] ♪ >> we'll stop here. >> catania, the early morning market. it's been going on for longer than america has had a country. it's old, old italia. do they know you here? do you shop here often? >> yeah. >> this is not tomaso's first trip to the market by a long shot. his mom is a regular. she comes here almost every day. >> thanks. >> see, this is a mix. you can find here everything. each butcher, more likely they have their own specialty. fresh ingredients, you know. >> they do lamb?
>> yeah, they do lamb, sausage, the hamburger. this is normally at least about 6 months old, at least. over here. this is the place where she buy the spices for her home, and the veggies. >> this is what the market is best known for, seafood. >> bongiourno. this one is one of the biggest reseller that we have in the fish market. can you see also the variety. >> yeah. >> we consider the tuna like a pig. we don't throw away anything. see, this is typical. you can find all it here. >> oh, those are the tiny, tiny little clams. >> right. >> yes. >> you can see the shrimp are normally still alive.
>> so i see sepia. baby -- >> baby sardine. >> baby swordfish. i'm joining tomaso for lunch today. mom's cooking, so we've got to do some shopping. >> bongiourno. [ speaking foreign language ] >> they look beautiful. >> yeah. the color is beautiful. >> and bongiourno. so, we'll go have some today, so the shrimp and -- >> baby sardines. >> gracias. bongiourno. >> i'll tell you. >> what do you want to try? blood sausage? [ speaking foreign language ]
>> just blood? no onion, no spice, nothing? >> a little salt. >> whoa, whoa, whoa. >> oh, a little pepper. >> si. . >> you squeeze it? >> no, no, your hand. >> mm-mmm. [ speaking foreign language ] >> like cordula. >> si. interesting runner-up. >> oh, that's good, mm-mmm. usually, i don't like tripe plain. i like in the a sauce and a little spicy. that's very tasty. looks like hell, tastes like heaven. if you like this, you're sicilian. >> you're right. >> very, very.
dysfunctional, too-much-information kind of history, is it any mystery why i'm always on the lookout for grandma? anybody's grandma will do. hell, i've been known to cruise rural state highways looking for hitch-hiking grannies to abduct so they'll cook for me. and given my fragile, emotional state, it makes sense that i would dragoon tomaso's mom into making me lunch. is that heart warming or, like, creepy and sad? >> smells good in here. >> wine in the meantime. cheers. >> cheers. >> need any help chopping parsley? oh, perfect. for lunch we've got the shrimp and sardines from earlier at the market, but first this. just grab one? it's like arancini but with hollowed out potatoes. filled with cheese, breaded and fried. ooh, delicious. >> basically, when the feta's ready and the fill with the cheese and -- >> oh, yes.
>> we dip in the eggs to seal the potato. >> right. >> and then the crumb bread and fried. >> my mother cooks for everybody, even if it was midnight. in my house it was my father's friends over my friends. >> right. >> so, when we all have to share all together and have a dinner, my mother is cooking for everybody. because the problem is when she cook, even if she know it's only for five people, she cooking for ten. >> ten, just in case. ♪ more caparada. this is sicily, after all, and this is the classic starter. also a bread and tomato salad. >> would you like to try something? >> that's old school. >> we use bread that a harder. we usually do bread that is two days old. >> right. it's really good. really, really good. that's sicily right there. >> right.
yes. >> fresh shrimp sauteed in butter, garlic and herbs. i have noticed over time as i traveled around the world that every great and enlightened culture, when confronted with the shrimp or a prawn, right away. >> that's the way you see if it's fresh or not. >> so typical day, when you were 15 years old what did you eat for lunch? >> never missing pasta for lunch. >> pasta and meat? >> yes. >> or pasta and fish? >> and fish. something locally. basically, you have to go right behind the corner to find your products. whatever we could produce in sicily, that's what we choose to buy. >> watch this. zip the bone right out. out comes all the bone. who needs a knife? >> sardines fileted neatly, sauteed in garlic and oil. a little red pepper. it's a beautiful thing right there. good. i'll tell you, another two hours here i'll be speaking italian.
well i'll be speaking sicilian. [ speaking foreign language ] yes, you have to eat it hot. this is very nice. really, if you don't like this, there's really no hope for you. [ speaking in foreign language ] >> there's something you don't like it? >> everything is fantastic. so happy. >> tell her, because -- >> i'm so happy. this was a delicious meal to eat in this beautiful home with some really good, home-cooked food.
♪ my last night in sicily. and after this, i'm going back to new york, crawling under my bed and adopting the fetal position for, like, six weeks. vegetables? i may look normal. okay, i don't exactly, but i'm not barking uncontrollably or running around shrieking with my pants wrapped around my head, which is what my instincts are telling me i should be doing. to me, one of life's great joys is cheese. no, i'm eating cheese, which makes me happy, always. and drinking wine. good wine. and a hell of a lot of it. and i'll just make it over the hump with any luck at all. we have a mozzarella here, a pepperccino. >> si.
>> you can start with the one in the middle. >> i will. ture joins me for a final meal along with antonio, guido and guido's girlfriend, anna. this is an agritourismo. this is not a concept that exists in america, but it is a concept that should exist. okay, now please explain what it is. >> it is a hotel linked to the territory. you have to use local product, local recipe. >> pene, sun-dried tomatoes, zucchini, all from the farm. >> oh, man, that looks good. ♪ >> wow. wow, wow, wow. fantastic. >> whoa! >> some nice rabbit, olive oil, also from the farm.
more wine. i might just make it. now, this is called agrodolce? bitter. if you talk about italy, it is the most interesting part of italian cuisine. not just gastronomically but philosophically, because it is a philosophical thing. life is too good. i need a little bitterness to remind myself of the internal tragedy of our existence. >> you're right, the sweet and sour of the life. >> one final attempt before i go to extract something meaningful on what it means to be sicilian. >> what's wrong with these people in the north? >> people from the south are coming from these greek street culture, where the philosopher while in the north came through, you know, and -- >> ooh, that's the harshest, meanest thing anyone can say.
>> and figured out the last century, the three best writers in italy are from sicily. >> because they consider us a way to end their problems, but finally in summers, they all come here to make millions. it's a good thing for us, you know? >> in the end, it all comes back to "the godfather." we go up this beautiful mountain, this incredible town. it goes back to the 12th century. there are few places on earth more beautiful. but we are sitting in one of the -- ♪ da, na, na it was like a "godfather" theme park. look michael corleone got married there. it's so fantastic. >> you know, we just look at people with "the godfather" t-shirt, and i say, oh, my god. why people get stuck on this idol called "the godfather" movie, because there is this sense of family.
>> michael had many options. he destroyed his family. and everything he touched. >> in a way it's fair. >> it's fair? >> indeed, a good movie, sure. >> coppola, he didn't [ muted ] it up? it up? >> no. -- captions by vitac -- www.vitac.com one of the world's truly great actors dead this morning. philip seymour hoffman. all signs point to an overdose. overnight, new questions about signs that might have been missed. we will have the very latest on the investigation. will americans be safe in sochi? rising concerns this morning about security in russia with only days to go before the olympics there. this morning, new information on how americans would be evacuated if terrorists strike. we're live. an all-night party! the seahawks crush the broncos. i mean crush! this morning, the celebrations,
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