tv Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown CNN June 8, 2014 6:00pm-7:01pm PDT
♪ in bahia, you find yourself in the heart of the heart of brazil, where the magic comes from. if you want to get there, just follow the sound of the drums. this is salvadore de bahia, city of three million people. first capital of brazil. the wellspring for everything african and spicy, where things seem to just sway and move constantly. it's a place where everybody is sexy, where even the ugly people are hot. unsurprisingly, this is where artists come from. african spiritualism, cult magic, ondomble and caipirinhas. did i mention caipirinhas?
they do those here, too. i like them. i like them a lot. >> what's magical about this cocktail is the first taste, it's like i don't know, man, it's a little too something. then like that second sip, it's like oh, that's kind of good. then the third sip, it's where are my pants. fortunately, food in these parts tends to be, shall we say, hearty. for instance, a delightful meal of fried meat with plenty of absorbent starch product like baropha, the perfect accompaniment to many, many caipirinhas. >> excellent. now we're talking. tough town for vegetarians. oh, good. i'll have six more of these, please. people are staring at me.
♪ >> welcome, my friend. >> good to be here again. >> oh, yeah? >> love it here. >> please. welcome to salvadore. >> thank you. this is claudio and maurelia. it's good to have friends in a place like salvador. in fact, you're pretty much lost without them. >> tuesday night. >> yeah, man. tuesday nights are very impressive. many people come to church first, then they go drinking
around. >> you have to work tomorrow, right? i guess that's brazil, right? >> yes, brazil, but you have this kind of behavior here, not in whole city. >> how different is salvador from rio and sao paolo? >> this area is amazing. >> it is. >> amazing. eat, drink, history, memory, anything. >> pellorinio, pello for short, was salvadore during the portuguese period. it's always a party, a series of parties, actually, but tonight is special. ♪
>> what is it? >> it's caramio, mix of honey and limon. >> alcohol? >> yes. >> alcohol of unknown original in dispensed from atop the head of a stranger? it's good. mama always said that was a good idea. i don't know if it's the booze or the music or the tropical heat, but after awhile bouncing from place to place, wandering down old cobblestone streets, different music issuing from everywhere, a different party, people flowing out of buildings, one gathering, comingling with another, the music mixing, it really does seem that everybody is moving to some mysterious unknowable pulse, some unheard throb that moves people to constantly touch each other, stroke hips, necks, limbs.
♪ it is useful to know that of over 12 million africans dragged, ripped and kidnapped from their homelands, nearly five million ended up in brazil. 1.5 million of them in bahia alone. pellorinio became the locus of a vast infrastructure of plantations and the slave trade that powered them. making this city in northeastern brazil the most opulent in the new world. pellorinio, it's worth pointing
out, gets its name from the whipping post. a hundred years after slavery was outlawed in brazil, pellorinio had been forgotten but of course, the neighborhood had its charms. if you were an artist, a musician, a writer, you could afford to live here. cheap rent for long-time locals or shiny new art galleries at hipster cafes, we know which way the current of history runs. ♪ [ speaking in foreign language ]
>> here, though, one man stands alone. a poet, sculptor, painter, musician, now perhaps his own greatest artistic creation. he has chosen to hide his face from view and to stand in opposition, an eyesore, a rebuke, a defy ant gwar-like embarrassment to the occupiers. >> as he dresses now, this is for protection but as i understand, also protest. [ speaking foreign language ]
>> it's a kind of protest but also protection. you know? >> who's the enemy? [ speaking a foreign language ] >> everyone. you see face, you see heart. >> how long have you been wearing the armor? how long? >> 46 years. >> 46 years. that was a long time ago. you ever been on the beach? >> no, sir. only shadow. >> goth, dude. >> whiskey. >> it's about not sun. no sun. not water, not sun. >> just down from where we're sitting, gymez pellorinio
studio. his water and power have been shut off but he insists he's going nowhere. brazil is supposed to be about what, music, dancing, sun, hot women. does he reject those things? does he think that's bull? [ speaking a foreign language ] >> i am the wrong country. >> where would the perfect place be? >> rock city. >> rock city. that's detroit. >> detroit. >> detroit. >> detroit, rock city. what music inspires him? >> iron maiden. >> iron maiden. i think they're touring, actually. nirvana. metallica? >> beethoven. >> what do you think of this? anybody who comes here recognizes immediately that this is a really uniquely extraordinary and despite many
problems, a uniquely wonderful, magical place. >> it's a magical place but also for us, for me and for him, here is a place where many people have suffered. there is still one kind of karma of this old history here, you know? >> so what is the real pellorinio? >> we are. >> we are. [ speaking foreign language ]
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but i like walking in the rain. i like wandering through markets as much as the next guy, but what i really like are neuro toxins. in japan, they call it fugu. yeah, yeah, yeah, it's eyes, ovaries and internal organs are packed with varying amounts of toxins and some people will tell you the toxin present in the blowfish is 1200 times more potent than cyanide and they will tell you how if it's consumed, you remain conscious while your muscles gradually become paralyzed and death, like a slow-moving freight train, moves closer and closer. and whatever you do, just make sure you cut out that liver. i say bull --. so we're eating blowfish. >> yes. it's an adventure. >> like the japanese, they like the poisons? >> noi know, i know, yeah. >> they remove the liver and the skin? >> supposed to be removed
properly. >> properly, right. i saw a "simpsons" episode, i think. >> this guy make it great. >> poisonous blowfish will take a recipe. add coriander, coconut milk, cover and simmer. i am confident in this cook i don't know. and in this man, my host and aficionado of this dish. smelling good. >> bon appetit. >> thank you. >> this is a lot of pepper, huh? >> oh, yeah. good pepper. nice and spicy. i can't feel my legs. is that a bad thing? >> bel is an artist, after all. a very famous one. so he knows about neurotoxins.
he comes from a long tradition of artists who have found inspiration in bahia. is there something about salvador you think that's conducive to an artistic sensibility? there is so much color here and music. >> the light here is beautiful. >> the light is really special. just the colors of the city are amazing. the colors of the people are amazing, and the way they move. >> they move. >> i don't know, when i first came here, i thought everybody in this city looks like they just got or they're on their way to go -- [ laughter ] >> so this was the central market back before supermarkets, this is where everybody did their shopping, right? >> oh, yes. this is the real brazil here. the real bahia. >> right. >> this place is fantastic.
they sell oil and stuff, this kind of oil, palm oil. >> oh, yeah. >> whoever you want to call it. >> i love the dende oil. it takes some getting used to. the first time i was here, you eat it, you -- like a mink for hours afterwards. now, no problems. i've been eating this all week. love it. you spend time in brazil -- >> you develop resistance. >> there you go. hope you like spicy. he's a brazilian guy. he's got to like spicy. a little cachaca. >> oh, yes. >> that will set you right. >> that will protect you from the poison.
>> we're coming up to the world cup and i know a lot of people will be reading about crime and all that. how do you think it's going to go, the world cup? disaster or it's going to somehow work out? >> i think it will be a success. >> you think it will be a success. >> i'm sure of it. >> salvador is one of the host cities for the 2014 world cup. a huge stadium has recently been completed, but a lot of people are worried, concerned, if brazil is ready. i have been told thousands of prostitutes are studying tourist-appropriate languages in preparation, so probably a lot of people are going to get laid, a lot of people are going to get robbed, a lot of people are going to get laid and robbed. >> have you ever been here in carnival? >> no. >> the world cup is that carnival. >> that works out, right?
that's not a slaughterfest. >> it's a breakfast. >> right. >> things happen but it works. >> salvador in particular is a place where -- >> may i? >> thank you. no matter what, people should come. even people who are afraid to travel, who say oh, well, but i hear. no, you know what, live your life, man. you should not miss a place like this, because there aren't a lot of places in the world that even come close to this. >> where we are today, i invited you to have this dish. we are not born to die. >> i'm pretty sure mr. muffin stuff over here is suddenly going to jump on me, start clawing my face. >> the poison was active, she's dead. >> i didn't think of that. we call you canary. >> we are not born for dying. >> no.
i'm on expert on softball. and tea parties. i'll have more awkward conversations than i'm equipped for, because i'm raising two girls on my own. i'll worry about the economy more than a few times before they're grown. but it's for them, so i've found a way. who matters most to you says the most about you. at massmutual we're owned by our policyowners, and they matter most to us. ready to plan for your future? we'll help you get there. to help protect your eye health as you age... would you take it? well, there is. [ male announcer ] it's called ocuvite. a vitamin totally dedicated to your eyes, from the eye care experts at bausch + lomb.
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this is where a local fishermen's association brings their catch to sell to wholesalers, then relax after a long day on the water. catch of the day, the prized big red snapper. rub with sea salt, lemon, olive oil, grill over charcoal. enjoy view. so everybody here is fishermen? [ speaking foreign language ] >> meet maloca, a very special guy. he's been working as our head of security and as for reasons that are immediately obvious, he enjoys respect and reputation on the streets. but he also comes out of this neighborhood and these guys are his friends. how's business now? lot of fish out there? fishing business good? [ speaking foreign language ]
>> lunch wouldn't be complete without a delicious spicy salsa of garlic, tomato, onions and peppers. on the side, some deep fried little smelts. don't forget the beer and the cachaca and enjoy. >> that will work. looks like a big grouper. >> it's a big redfish. >> i have to advise you that -- >> it's spicy. what do they drink, beer or cachaca? both. >> still working?
[ speaking foreign language ] >> he work more than all of us. >> they use a line or net? >> a line. >> my secret is just the hand around a piece of wood like that and take like that. >> they don't cut the hands? >> always cut the hands. >> fishing anywhere is hard and the way these guys do it, particularly hard. mostly hand lines from small boats. just look at these hands. >> you're a hard man. literally. ♪
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in rio if you're anything less than perfectly cut, you feel terrible going to the beach. you never want to go to the beach. here, you can frolic in a speedo and feel pretty good about myself. let it all hang out here. [ speaking in a foreign language ] >> caipirinha? ah, the caipirinha man. this indispensable icon of brazilian beach culture is known to start with fresh lime, muddle and mash with more lime juice, sugar, ice. the magic ingredient, cachaca. that's basically the distilled liquor of the sugar cane. shaken, not stirred, and you've got yourself one of the world's truly great cocktails. the utility beverage good for
the clothes go back to the newly freed slaves who now were able to practice their religion and began selling the acaraje to support the community. what is acaraje? behold. a paste, a batter, a filafel like wad with peas, seasoned with shrimp and onions, deep fried to crispy and golden in dende oil. already if you're a rookie you're guaranteed some quality time on the porcelain bus real soon. on the top, you got sort of a shrimp curry paste. and your tomato, your fried shrimp, a must. >> all right. beautiful.
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♪ when millions of africans were taken by force to brazil, the traditions, the musical roots they had, instruments they played, their gods and their food came with them. in the days of slavery, you would hide that stuff, whether it was your religion or your self-defense skills. so tell me about kapuara. >> it was a kind of martial art but in the beginning of the century, it became more like a game and the music instruments were associated. >> no hats, right? why no hands? >> we use the hands in just a few movements. >> where did that come from and why do you think that became -- >> some people say that this is
inspired by the animal movements. >> in a recent study observing the comparative destructive power between kicks from various martial arts, of karate, muy thai and tie kwan doe, capuara packed the most ferocious impact. the leaders knew this and made it illegal for much of brazil's history. today, it's taught in classrooms and on stages. >> originally it was a male-dominated activity. when did that change? >> since the '60s. we start in the beginning of the '80s and nowadays, we have hundreds of women practice. >> what was it like in the beginning, the very first women who did it? >> mothers or fathers or the family -- >> right. >> sad that capuara is not for women, why do you decide to do this. >> afro brazilian cuisine is the
result of many, many years of cooks experimenting with african and portuguese dishes combined with local ingredients like seafood, chilies, coconut milk. this is angelica's house. open one day a week as a restaurant serving her unique style of bahian dishes. >> beautiful. wow. look at that. >> looks very good. >> how has being a master of capuara, how has that changed the rest of your life? >> i think changed it a lot. women in general, they don't learn to fight. learning how to be involved in real fights, game and fight at the same time, we became more prepared to be involved in symbolic fight and in our society, the women, they are not so well prepared like men.
[ singing in foreign language ] >> it was purely african in the beginning, and now it's afro-brazilian form, is that correct? >> all the instruments are african instruments. >> right. they're singing. a lot of singing, and it's important. >> yeah. yeah. in portuguese, but we in capuara, we start to include music from multi-cultural african cultural traditions including lyrics in african language. >> all the things that we look at as brazilian from outside looking in, the cuisine, samba, all of these things are very african in origin. this is kind of where that all started, yes? i mean, i don't want to say it's the real brazil. everyone looks at rio as the postcard brazil, but here it's
really, you feel it. those things. >> it has to do with this big concentration of africans since the beginning. it's different. [ speaking in foreign language ] olive garden's latest inspiration? you! you told us your number one olive garden dishes. now they're part of our 2 for $25 guest favorites! featuring for the very first time your all time favorite dish, creamy chicken alfredo.
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>> if you, say, found yourself in brazil and had a chance to hire a boat, head for the beach with a bunch of new friends, bring along a skilled mixologist, expert ly trained i the arts of drink making, why wouldn't you? charge across the water, headed for a nice, quiet island. order up some sun to come out from some dark clouds right about now. sometimes cliches are cliches for a reason. because they're good ideas to start with, which is why people keep looking for them and doing them over and over.
>> in a perfect world upon reaching said enchanted island, you jump into the warm atlantic water, and if you could, you would have a classic soundtrack to this adventure, like samba, for instance. splash around for a while, maybe enjoy a nice cold beer or two. >> you truly have not taken a beach until a man has set up the caporina station. then you know the lz is secure.
to complete the picture, make a large fish. maybe some crab. you know, anytime you get your chinese, brazilians and italians all agreeing on something, it's really c a good idea. everybody agrees this complicat complicated creature with troublesome shells is worth the work. tear off the little limbs. we'll get to you a little later, my friends. rip out the tail. these are the lungs you don't want them. now you've got all this nice fat in there. oh, yeah. now we're getting to the claw. look at that. let's poke him out of there. oh, yeah. that little melon of goodness. like a celestial nibble. when people started demanding boneless stuff like chicken without a bone or crab meat without the actual crab.
or lazy lobster. that was the beginning of the erosion of our society as we know it. if you're not willing to work for a payoff like this, how do you expect us to, like, fight al qaeda if you can't suck the meat out of a crab? character builder. and delicious. >> and if your perfect day really did happen, you would probably let yourself be swept away. by liquor and good food and gin clear water, all all around you, brazilians casually fondle each other, get all dozy and fall asleep.
>> college sports isn't just big fun, it's big business, generating billions a year for the ncaa and the universities. these days there's talk about whether the system is unfair for student athletes. if the schools are making millions, are the students getting their fair share. >> they're getting a free education, room and board. >> i go to bed and i'm starving. >> it's time they get stom spending money. >> they're not employee, they're students. >> in order to explore life as an amateur athlete, i'm going back to college.