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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  January 13, 2018 11:00pm-12:01am PST

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♪ motivational speaker: prosperity is productivity, not just hard work. you can be very hardworking and still be broke if you are not productive. [ drumming ] your life condition today is an outcome of choices and decisions made in time past. good choice, bad choices, easier choices, or no choices at all. ♪
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♪ ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, >> anthony: lagos, nigeria's mega-city. one of the most dynamic,
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unrestrained and energetic expressions of free market capitalism and do it yourself entrepreneurship on the planet. >> kadaria:when you have a place of 20 million people, they have to eat. they have to wear clothes. they have to do all sorts of things. i mean lagos is a testament to the resilience and to the ingenuity of the nigerian spirit. >> anthony: buy, sell, trade, hustle and claw. make your own way, any way you can. >> kadaria: nobody does any one job in this country. >> anthony: is that what they say? you have to have three hustles. >> kadaria: yes. you see people making watches from scraps. there are people who make shoes. i'm wearing something that's made by a nigerian. i provide my own water. i provide my own power because i have a generator. i have an invertor. there's an energy in lagos, the
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hustle and the bustle. >> man on the street: hi julia. here's your boy anthony -- >> anthony: with a ridiculously over burdened infrastructure and a history of egregiously bent leadership, they long ago learned that ain't nobody going to help you in this world. pick up a broom, a hammer. buy a taxi or a truck. build a bank or a billion dollar company, and get to work. >> banky: i will push myself. i will do what i need to do. i will do whatever it takes to take care of myself and my family. ♪ ♪
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>> anthony: am i in victoria island right now? >> banky: yes. >> anthony: okay. so this is the promise land? >> banky: this is manhattan. ♪ >> anthony: victoria island, the garden of dreams. where the winners work, and play. there's money in nigeria, lots of it, mostly from oil, agriculture and services like banking. [ fireworks erupting ] lagos alone is the fifth-largest economy in africa, 9,000 millionaires and billionaires. many of africa's richest people live here. 50 years ago, there were 300,000 people in lagos, and there are now --
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>> banky: almost 20 million. >> anthony: around 20 million. there are a whole lot of people leaving where ever they were. >> banky: yep. >> anthony: coming to the big city looking to get a job, looking to make it big. >> banky: absolutely. >> anthony: the smartest, the fastest, the best, the brightest make it over here. >> banky: yup. it's that place. it'll make you. or it'll break you. sink or swim. >> anthony: shina pella owns quilox, one of africa's most exclusive night clubs. >> shina: i built the nightclub by myself with my construction company. >> anthony: banky wellington is an artist and business man. >> banky: i'm a record label owner. i'm an actor. i'm a director. i do videos and tv commercials. i'm in advertising. i'm in real estate. i'm training to be a chef. >> anthony: why work so hard? you don't have to hustle. your life is good. business is good. why you doing so many things? >> shina: that is something that is just common in nigeria. you know? >> banky: there's the internal nigerian optimism, that tomorrow is going to be better than today. >> anthony: yeah. where does that come from? why are nigerians so optimistic? >> banky: i think it's borne out
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of necessity. you know? either you're going to make it. or you're going to be screwed. you almost don't have a choice. you need to be trying everything possible to be successful. i must make it. i must be successful. ♪ ♪ [ speaking foreign language ] >> anthony: right over there, victoria island. that's the nigerian dream, right?
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if i just hustle enough. if i figure out a way, i have a master plan. god's help i'm going to end up over there. it's close. it's really close. how do you get from here to there? >> edoato: it's impossible. the government and the people in power made poor people perpetually poor. >> anthony: this is the other lagos, makoko, a city within a city. >> edoato: this community has been in existence for over a 100 years. >> anthony: this used to be a little fishing village. >> edoato: yeah. >> anthony: people started showing up, no plan, build your own house. >> edoato: it's a community that has been built -- not built on government plan. it is an ingenuity of the people. >> anthony: how many people live here? >> edoato: the whole waterway. >> anthony: the whole waterway. >> edoato: the whole waterway would be about 100,000 people. [ singing ]
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[ singing ] >> anthony: it's a fully functioning community. i've seen barbershops, restaurants, groceries, hotels -- >> edoato: hospitals, private schools -- >> anthony: self-made, self-run, self-policing, independent of everything. it exists because it has to. i mean there's electricity. there's water. all of this you provide, yes? >> edoato: yes. >> yomi: yes. we provide.
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>> anthony: edoato agbeniyi is a musician and activist. >> edoato: this community started from nothing. now it's booming. and the government is coming to seize it. >> anthony: they want to get you out, right? >> yomi: yes. >> anthony: they'd like to build hotels. yomi mesu, the son of a neighborhood leader -- but they've been forced to stop. >> edoato: no they are not stopping, we've been able to halt them . two, three weeks ago there was another community on the other side of this on the island was also demolished. >> yomi: they just come and demolish. >> edoato: the people living here, there's also livelihood that depends on fishing. they are fisher people. so if you take them to the mainland, it's like taking the fish out of water. >> yomi: they can't survive. can't survive. can't survive. >> anthony:what do we have here, what kind of fish? >> yomi: this is moyo. >> anthony: moyo. >> yomi: you eat it with this flake. we call this eba. >> anthony: all right. >> yomi: and here we call this
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galee. >> anthony:that looks good. ♪ good. delicious. all the children i see, do they go to school? what will they do, will they stay here and take up the family business or are they going to move on? >> edoato: some will grow up to be accountants, they'll become professionals. but what would a lawyer do? what would an accountant do? when there is no food, most of the fresh fishes that have been sold to the rich men in government have been taken from this village. we need people that do fishing, that do farming. >> anthony:but you're going to need lawyers. >> edoato: definitely everybody needs everybody. ♪
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[ singing ] ok, so with the award-winning our customers have 24/7 access, digital id cards, they can even pay their bill- (beep) bill has joined the call. hey bill, we're just- phone: hi guys, bill here. do we have julia on the line too? 'k, well we'll just- phone: hey sorry. i had you muted.
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i'm jimmy, this is my definition of fresh since 1983. ♪ ♪ [ singing ] >> motivational speaker: to do well in business, be hardworking, and be full of ideas. you need all these to birth a real miracle. ♪
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♪ >> anthony: where are we? computer village? >> tunti: yes this is computer village, it's your tech hub, they sell everything here. mobile phones, computers, any kind of digital equipment you're looking for, this is where to find it. it's said to be a 2 billion dollar market. >> anthony: public money is
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generated in lagos, not so much by oil but by the free market. a wild west free for all of private enterprise. >> tunti: it grew organically, not by government intervention. >> anthony: it just happened. >> tunti: it just happened. everything is crammed into this small eco-system. you have one small store. somebody selling mobile phones right in it. and in front of him you got another guy who's selling applications for the phones. a repair guy he's right there, and it works. that's the amazing thing about it. >> anthony: tunti andrews is a journalist, radio host, and an expert on the nigerian economy. the guys who fascinate me are these kids sitting there with phones are opened up. like if i want my iphone repaired in new york i have to go to the apple store and i have to wait on line, i have to say bye to my phone for a while. but here they know how to take apart my iphone, fix it, and put it back together. >> tunti: this how the computer village eco-system works right, a young boy trying to make a better life for himself finds his way to lagos. and one of his brothers or his uncles are working here and then he starts to learn how to repair mobile phones right. >> anthony: right. >> tunti: and sometimes i tend to think they deal with trial
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and error, so your phone might just be a practice -- but -- >> anthony: right. >> tunti: yeah. >> anthony: but they get there eventually. >> tunti: they get there eventually, and that's the success story of almost all the people you see here. most of them came into this particular market with nothing. ♪ okay, this is -- >> anthony: oh, yeah, let's go get some food. >> tunti: exactly. ♪ >> anthony: pounded yam is the ubiquitous starch of nigerian cuisine. ♪ here served with egusi soup. a stew of goat meat, melon seeds, fish stock and chiles. ♪ this is very, very good. so, i've heard this market described as the perfect market. now, what does that mean? >> tunti: right here, you can find on the same street, about 20 people doing exactly the same thing. so you go to the first guy and you say, "hey, i want to repair
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my phone. he says, "okay, i can do it for you for 5000 naira." now all you have to do is look across the road and find somebody who can do exactly the same thing, and he knows that, right? so, he starts to think to himself, "i better give him the best price i can possibly give him, so that i can get his market." >> anthony: completely unregulated as far as prices. >> tunti: completely unregulated. >> anthony: so, it's really the free market at its purist? >> tunti: exactly. lagos has been able to grow and expand its borders and that comes from the sweat of people on the street. once government interferes in private activity, more often than not, they make it more complex. and they move it towards extinction. [ cars honking ] ♪ >> tunti: a lot of people are outside the tax net, so the state government has to do very genius in trying to get taxes.
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>> anthony: right. [ speaking foreign language ] who really runs the streets -- the de facto front line of law and order or area boys? >> tunti: the government tries to get people on the street, like the foot soldiers. >> anthony: an area boy's crew levels street taxes on, well, everything. reporting to their regional boss. a king of boys. [ speaking foreign language ] taxis, buses, any target of opportunity pays. >> kadaria: we don't depend on government fine, but you're running your own business. >> anthony: right. >> kadaria: so you pay a bribe. because that's the only way to get things done. every person seems to be tainted a little. >> anthony: police, politicians,
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business leaders. everybody gets their piece of the action. it's a daily fact of life in lagos. [ sirens ] ♪ this is a big oil rich country. why doesn't it look like dubai? >> kadaria: well, i hate to be on this show and talk nigeria down. you know what it is, because you hear all these things all the time. so, yes, there is corruption, it is about corruption. it's about that fact that the resources that are supposed to be used for people aren't being used for people. >> anthony: kadaria ahmed is a progressive journalist, editor, and tv host who moderates the presidential debates. >> kadaria: years of military rule meant that people were brutalized. there was a fight against thinking. >> anthony: there was an anti-intellectual movement where you were punished for -- >> kadaria: shamed. >> anthony: shamed for reading,
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for having an education, for aspiring to those things. >> kadaria: so, yeah. you saw a decline in education. that continued for 30 years. the biggest obstacle in this country is the political class. because what we have in nigeria - if you lose elections, you then jump to the other party. and you win elections. and then if you lose, you go back to this other party. so it's the same people. they're going to fight tooth and nail to stay in office. and to keep the system the way it is. ♪ >> anthony: pepper soup is the food of the night in dark places. it burns, it burns real good. delicious. this is a very i.t. savvy country. nigerian internet scammers are world renown. >> kadaria: they are a tiny minority, i must tell you. >> anthony: it may not be a legit enterprise, but you got some very smart, hard-working people. >> kadaria: they're very
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talented. imagine if they were all well educated, if they had access to finance. i believe if you're a black person, whether you're african or you're african-american, you're never going to get any respect unless there is a successful black nation. ♪ >> motivational speaker: it is unwise to hold other people, your employer, or even the government accountable for your success. >> kadaria: that is the only way people are going to respect you. >> motivational speaker: you must do it yourself. ♪ when heartburn hits... fight back fast with tums smoothies. it starts dissolving the instant it touches your tongue... and neutralizes stomach acid at the source. ♪ tum tum tum tum... smoothies... only from tums how pure can pure be? for a future full of possibilities, our 12-step process provides pure, quality water. nestle pure life. pure life begins now.
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♪ >> archival: queen elizabeth came to nigeria in 1959. the 33 million people of england's most prosperous african colony were ready for independence. ♪ >> anthony: a friend of mine sends me a text and says, "are you aware of nigerian psych rock of the 70's?" >> man in black glasses: there was a war in the late '60s that caused a whole shift in the sound because before the war it was high life. and after the war, it was rock and all sorts of sounds.
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♪ >> anthony: this is mind-blowing amazing stuff. >> man in black glasses: this was a game changer. >> anthony: it's as if everybody took acid at the same time. >> man in black glasses: it was less the acid and more let's just freak out. ♪ >> anthony: these new sounds, mutations on funk, jazz, and rock, marked an explosive change in nigerian culture. how'd it do when it came out? >> man in black glasses: it was wildfire. >> anthony: really? it was a hit? >> man in black glasses: it was a massive hit. >> anthony: timmy castro is a collector and aficionado. ♪ >> timmy castro: this is really where it started from. >> anthony: uh-huh.
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>> timmy castro: blo, they had a very trippy song which i'll play for you. >> anthony: yeah, let's hear. ♪ this is freaky. ♪ >> timmy castro: that shift in music had a lot to do with the war. >> archival: nigeria's rebel declared its independence. >> timmy castro: that music was needed to translate the darkness. >> archival: soldiers of the breakaway province suffered heavy casualties and ultimate defeat. 1,000 a day died of starvation. >> anthony: the music was a defiant middle finger to war, to corruption, and to repressive military rule. >> timmy castro: you know how military dictators try to control everything. >> anthony: but of all the music at the time, nothing and nobody
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took it directly to the people in such explicitly confrontational terms, its afro-beat and its architect, fela kuti. when the government were giving fela a hard time because he was specifically protesting by name, specific things. i mean they identified him as an existential threat, he was. people would show up at the shrine and what's he going to say? what's he mad about today? ♪ fela was an african superstar. a loud, persistent, and unwavering voice of opposition and resistance. ♪ >> timmy castro: people protested but they didn't name names, but fela would name names and would say you're a thief. ♪
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♪ ♪ >> femi: for one decade, fela's voice was the only voice here. and he paid a very high price. his house was burned. he was stopped from playing. >> anthony: fela died in 1997 of aids after a social life that could be best described as complicated. he married 27 wives in one day, for instance. but he left behind an enormous legacy and a family, including two internationally celebrated musicians in their own right, femi and seun kuti. ♪
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♪ >> femi: because of fela we are able to voice our feelings today. >> yeni: if things are not right, you can't just gloss over it. there's no reason why this country cannot be ten times better. >> anthony: daughter yeni runs this place. the new africa shrine. >> yeni: we have more money, we have more oil. but we have bad leaders. >> anthony: both a musical venue, and a political pulpit with a vital position at the epicenter of nigerian music. ♪
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♪ >> femi: so you drink beer? >> seun: i tell you if anthony is drinking beer i'm drinking beer, too. >> femi: how can you say if he is drinking beer you are drinking beer? >> seun: i'm a fan of -- >> femi: of him or of drinking beer? >> seun: no, of him. i'm a fan of beer too, but if he's drinking beer, i'm drinking beer. [ laughter ] >> anthony: you grew up in your dad's compound and i know at one point he wanted you to become an area boy. that he thought it would be good street cred. >> femi: that's to put it kind of mild. he just wanted me to be like from the streets. >> anthony: we've been running into area boys constantly through this week and i kind of want to know how the structure works. >> femi: if you wanted to go for election for instance, you needed to see all the area boys. you have to give a lot of money for him to get all his gang members to vote for you. and if you do a good job in dealing with this you probably would win. >> anthony: that's not quite democracy though is it? >> seun: no, it's not. nigeria is not really a democratic state.
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♪ ♪ struggle music struggle sounds ♪ ♪ struggle people sturggle now ♪ ♪ struggle music struggle sounds ♪ ♪ struggle people sturggle now ♪ ♪ struggle music struggle sounds ♪ ♪ what is going on in africa today for me is i think a perverse kind of hopelessness. working for a system that is oppressing you and you know it's oppressing you, but you've given up that there is nothing i can do about it. >> anthony: i mean is that what you see because, honestly, i've never been in a country where everybody are working so hard at something. >> femi: they're hustling. >> anthony: they're hustling, right. i've been to drc to ghoma and kisingani, and those were not hopeful places. >> seun: yeah, but nigeria is the same way as drc in the north. because we have the boku haram insurgency. people are being killed, but nobody wants to talk about it. nobody wants to act as if it is a serious as -- because nigeria we play the game. we are the kings of the game.
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people were so proud when nigeria arrived in kenya for the africa summit, and how we brought the most amount of private jets, you understand, this is their mentality. they are all elitist. you know they have yachts in a country where 90 percent live in poverty. >> femi: it's self-esteem. >> seun: self-esteem? >> femi: yes. >> seun: it's about what you own? i don't think your self-esteem is about what you can buy. >> femi: excuse me, that's not what i said. as much as nigeria is bad, there is hope. when i grew up, we were like kids then. we couldn't sit here like this. the police would come and beat everybody up. a generation will come where they will say enough is enough, let's take back our lives. >> seun: femi kuti for president. >> femi: don't listen to him. >> seun: f.p.f.p. -- nigerian resistance. ♪ >> femi: it is the melodies of the angels of death. do not be afraid.
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>> anthony: the hausa are the largest tribal group in nigeria. known originally as cattlemen, they've become powerful politically as well. this is dembe boxing, a very old, brutal fighting art deeply engrained in hausa traditions particularly among the butcher class. it is a way for tough young men to earn a few bucks, prove themselves and break up the grim routine of their daily lives. all hausa versus hausa. >> yes, all hausa versus hausa.
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>> anthony: you hit with one hand -- >> yeah, and the other one is to block. >> ooh. [ drumming ]
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>> i welcome you to the hausa community, agege. sitting beside you is the emir of agege. >> you are welcomed to our humble place. >> anthony: thank you. interreligious and intertribal violence has a beea fact of life for years in nigeria. there are over 300 tribes, and tens of thousands have died during such conflicts. in lagos, some are trying to rewrite that narrative. the neighborhood of agege is a melting pot of different tribes and religious groups. this was originally a yoruba area, yes? but the hausa people have been living here for a very, very long time. >> yes, 154 years ago. >> there are intermarriages in between us and them. so that is why there are a lot of understanding.
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>> anthony: masa, rice cakes made from nigerian sticky rice, sugar and potash, a mineral rich salt. >> this is fura, it's made from millet and milk. >> anthony: it's more like a yogurt, slightly sour. >> yes. >> anthony: that's great. >> this is sort of a surprising food. it's also made of beans. >> anthony: this is all beans? >> yes. >> anthony: danwake, high protein bean flour dumplings served with tomatoes, onions in a peppery sauce. mmm, delicious. >> moringa. >> anthony: and moringa salad, made from the leaves of the zogala tree. it's aid to have medicinal properties. kuli-kuli powder is a garnish or condiment made from ground peanuts. what do you see the future of this area and your people? >> everything relies on education. we promote both western and arabic knowledge. the whole africa, even the whole world, is represented in lagos, so we have to work together.
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the prophet of islam muhammad, he lived with christians and jews peacefully without any problem. we believe that if there is no peace, there will be no progress. you cannot go to mosque, you cannot go to church, you cannot go to school, you cannot go to work. >> we love lagos, we love peace. >> and we pray to the almighty allah to continue living in peace. god bless lagos, god bless nigeria. ♪ it's time for sleep number's 'lowest prices of the season' on the only bed that adjusts on both sides to your ideal comfort your sleep number setting.
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♪ >> anthony: good cooking takes time. as more and more lagosian men and women enter the workforce, fewer and fewer cook the old way, long low and slow preparations that could take hours.
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>> iqou: the lagos up beat style makes it impossible for you to cook everything at home, so you go you buy from the street. >> anthony: so who blogs about food here? >> atim: we all do. >> iqou: we all blog about it. >> anthony: all? >> atim: yeah. >> anthony: atim, her mom, iqou, and friend, oz, are all hard workers, holding down multiple jobs between them. but they hold on to their fierce love of food and cooking. who are your readers? >> atim: primarily nigerians. >> anthony: homesick nigerians, also, i would think in the states. >> iqou: particularly homesick. >> atim: yeah, but then people who are married to nigerians that want to learn the cuisine. >> anthony: ah. these days, one often eats quickly in a place like this. yakoyo, serving traditional nigerian dishes made the way they should be made. >> iqou: this is called ewedu, juiced nigerian leaves. >> anthony: ewedu is a soup from the yoruba tribe.
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crayfish, chilies, locust beans and jute leaves. this is good. >> oz: have you had jollof rice? >> anthony: it's rice cooked with -- >> atim: tomato sauce. >> oz: spiced tomato sauce. it's almost like spanish red rice. >> anthony: jollof rice a staple across west africa. country of origin? don't get into that issue. it's contentious. all i can tell you is it's delicious. now who runs these businesses? >> atim: you walk in and you see an old lady sitting by the corner, her eyes are darting. >> iqou: yeah. you know she's checking, counting tables you know, "has the girl brought back my money?" so she sits there to control her money. >> anthony: in the back, you see a guy cooking big batches to refill. >> iqou: yeah.
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goat meat, okay. this is pounded yam. >> anthony: of course. this i've seen. >> iqou: and this is amala. >> anthony: you pound it and cook it kind of like this. >> oz: no. this is yam raw, sliced, ground into a flour, and then cooked into a meal. a bit like grits. >> iqou: it's about what you want and how you want to combine it. thank you. >> oz: you don't tilt you glass when you pour in there? >> anthony: i do, i'm just lazy. man, you guys are harsh. >> oz: no, no, no. >> anthony: i'm going to be reading about myself on your blog, "he's an animal at the table." the food here is really, really good. >> iqou: we're seeing quite a bit of revolution going on. we're not all sit at home moms anymore. not many people want to pound
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yam. she certainly doesn't want to pound yam. and i'm sure when she's getting married, one of her gifts to her husband's house will not be a mortar and a pestle. >> oz: unlike 20 years or 30 years ago. >> iqou: it would be a food processor, most likely. and personally, i think maybe people, women, my generation might have failed people like her by not passing things on. but now, thanks to food bloggers, the younger ladies have a -- >> atim: an avenue to learn. >> iqou: -- an avenue to, you know, get this information without getting it from their mom. >> anthony: how much interest in food is there these days? more? >> oz: more. nigerians are big on meat, so when you see that we have a few vegan chefs. >> anthony: wow, vegans. >> oz: vegan, yes, in nigeria. i think that shows you just how much more people are finding their niches. >> iqou: you know, that's for a second social class. the bulk of the people still --
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>> anthony: and these kids with no education, now they're fixing iphones. >> kadaria: and imagine if they were all well-educated. >> anthony: they say that where there's a will, there's a way. and there's plenty of will in nigeria. find a niche, create a business, build a home, a school, a community. or look beyond to create a new society. andela, cofounded by iyinoluwa aboyeji and run in nigeria by
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seni sulyman, is a rigorous training program that teaches coders and engineers with the goal of creating no less than a continent-wide ecosystem of high value software developers. >> shalom: my mom has like a mobile shop, something like what's in computer village. that's where i grew up, like, she would sell mobile phones and they'd fix it there, and she just used to run that. >> blessing: i came looking for a job, but the jobs i got, i said, "no, i don't want to be a salesperson, i don't want to be a secretary." so that's why i got into programming. >> anthony: shalom and blessing are trainees in the program, people who will someday rewrite the way africa works. >> seni: as you can see, there are a lot of issues in nigeria today. the average nigerian is struggling for just food, water, clothing, shelter. we all believe that this will change, and we all believe that we will change that. in the u.s., for every software
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developer that's looking for a job, there are five openings, which means there is a mass opportunity to get these awesome people who are really smart and really driven to be able to take on africa's challenges. >> iyinoluwa: but that's what's special about this place. i mean, most people kind of resign to the reality that they have. we're creating an alternate reality where there is always going to be power for you to do your work. >> anthony: africa, it should be stressed, is home to seven of the ten fastest growing internet populations in the world, with a huge young and mostly untapped labor pool of eager and ambitious people. >> iyinoluwa: the impact in a very short period of time, it's incredible, before we started, people would rarely hire african developers, and now they can. >> seni: many of us have been products of multinational experiences, i grew up in a nigeria, spent time in paris, went to the u.s., and
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eventually, i came back home. we're all connected, we know what's happening around the world. and you ask yourself, if that's happening literally just a few hours by plane away from here, why isn't that happening here? technology is going to change this continent. >> iyinoluwa: there is no other place in the world where you have the opportunity to build the future from scratch. >> anthony: where will lagos be in 10 years, or 20? change is inevitable, the problems enormous, but the desire, the hope is there, to change not just nigeria, but the world. >> iyinoluwa: we've got all the conditions for a revolution. >> motivational speaker: don't just build a cv, build a life, be better in real life than on paper. ♪ revolution
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♪ revolution ♪ revolution ♪ i've always wanted to get as far away as possible from the place that i was born. far both geographically and


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