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tv   Anthony Bourdain Parts Unknown  CNN  November 3, 2018 8:00pm-9:01pm PDT

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and this is now ♪ ♪ and he told me this town gets around ♪ ♪ from what i've found this town gets around ♪ >> anthony: some people must live in great spaces, where the sky goes on forever. where everyone must bend to the land. where to hunt, to fish, to sleep under that big sky aren't activities, but a way of life. >> jim harrison: it was between here in those mountains that cheyenne and crow battle took place. but i like it. it's very peaceful. >> anthony: what was it like a hundred years ago? two hundred years ago? >> jim harrison: oh, not much
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different. this was never forested. this is the dry side of the river because the primary winds come from the west. rain tends to blow over here that brings the snow to the mountains. >> anthony: legendary writer and poet jim harrison is one of those people and this is the place he calls home. ♪ i took a walk through this beautiful world ♪ ♪ felt the cool rain on my shoulder ♪ ♪ found something good in this beautiful world ♪ ♪ i felt the rain getting colder ♪ ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la, la, ♪ sha, la, la, la, la
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♪ >> jim harrison: am i as old as they am? maybe not. time is a mystery that could tip us upside down. yesterday i was seven in the woods. a bandage covered my blind eye. sixty-eight years later i could still inhabit that boy's body. i start thinking about a time in between. it is the burden of life to be in the ages without seeing the end of time. ♪
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>> anthony: next time you turn off a news cycle filled with shouting bobble-heads, convinced that america is devolving into a moronic inferno, questioning the greatness of your nation; maybe you should come here. here are your purple mountains majesty. this is the landscape that generations of dreamers, despots, adventurers, explorers, crackpots, and heroes fought and died for. it's one of the most beautiful places on earth. there is no place like it. montana. many have come to claim their piece over the years but before the prospectors and explorers there were the plains indians. the absaroka have been master horsemen since they adopted spanish introduced mustangs in the 18th century. >> kennard: general blackjack pershing.
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he's called them native americans, the centaurs of the plains. >> anthony: better known as the "crow", they were once part of the larger hadassah tribe. centuries ago they split off on their own and wandered or were pushed by conflict with the blackfeet, cheyenne, and dakota until settling here in the yellowstone river valley. >> kennard: that horse became everything to our people. >> anthony: kennard real bird grew up ranching and raising horses here at medicine tail coulee, which happens to be the exact spot where general george custer had the worst day of his life. kennard raises horses for rodeo, for riding, and for this; indian relay racing. >> kennard: the athletic ability on them kids are just amazing. the competition is intense. >> anthony: they travel all over to compete at this collarbone smashing, skull cracking, bone-snappingly dangerous sport. former allies and former blood enemies alike. >> kennard: it requires a lot of courage. >> anthony: i'll bet. >> kennard: and a high threshold for pain.
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it's representative of warrior mentality. >> anthony: one rider, three horses. >> annuncer: and they're all in line. >> kennard: and they're lined up. gun goes off. it's like a spontaneous combustion. [ gunshot ] [ cheers and applause ] >> announcer: they're off. [ indistinct ] >> anthony: top speed is around 40 miles an hour. and after each lap the rider dismounts at full freakin' gallop and leaps hopefully onto the next horse. yes, it's as dangerous and difficult as it looks. the prizes at big events run into the thousands of dollars, but really it's about bragging rights. >> announcer: into the race he goes. >> anthony: and pride. >> kennard: being in motion, in rhythm, in time, and in one with that horse, they develop strength of character. and once they conquer that fear, that feeling of accomplishment is so great, when they walk back from that race they have this
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sense of pride and self-worth of sky high. now they've identified with their ancestors. >> anthony: ken's wife diane has prepared a lunch of buffalo steaks, potato salad, fry bread and indian pudding made of juneberry stewed with flour and sugar. >> kennard: when i looked at my ancestors, they didn't have diabetes, they didn't have much cancer. they were very strong, durable people. and i said well, i'm going to start eating nothing but buffalo. >> anthony: over the course of your life, how much has this area changed? >> kennard: quite a bit. we went and picked up a four-wheeler last sunday. it'll be the first four-wheeler on the place. >> anthony: given those changes, what are the "crow" people going to be doing in twenty years? thirty years? is the horse going to play an important part of the culture still? >> kennard: i think so yeah, because what's a place going to be like without horses?
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i wouldn't want to be there. [ helicopter whirls ] >> anthony: who owns this land? can anyone really own it? who gets to use it? these are big questions that cut across traditional ideological lines out here where they have real meaning, not theoretical meaning. all this belongs to one man; this guy. bill galt. >> bill: okay, we're about a half mile from uh the confluence of rock creek and the smith river. >> anthony: galt ranch is a hundred thousand acres of grazing land, mountains, cliffs, and valleys. there's also some of the best trout fishing on the planet. >> david: bill, the water level on the creek looks good. >> anthony: this is bill's friend, the author and journalist david mccumber. they disagree on land use; a major issue. remember when you could do that
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and still be friends? lee kinsey is a professional outfitter who bill leases some areas of his property to for fishing. >> anthony: all this to outwit a fish? >> lee: i know. >> anthony: it's amazing. >> lee: all right go ahead. just let that tip high just straight up in the air. good. perfect! >> anthony: bill's a fifth generation montanan whose principal business is raising cattle. he's no weekend cowboy. this is work and he pays a lot of attention to his land. and a big issue for him for just about everybody around here, is the 1985 stream access law. >> bill: anybody that could access a stream via a public means could in fact use the stream even if it was on private grounds as long as they stayed within the ordinary high water mark of the stream. >> anthony: widely heralded by sportsman and outdoor enthusiasts, the law did not go down well with landowners like bill. >> anthony: oh got him! >> something took a bite. lee: yep! you still got a fish right in there too. >> anthony: oh, i see him.
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>> lee: perfect. e hoop set, set! whoa! the fish of the day nice brownie! >> anthony: all right! beautiful thing! that's pretty but i will not eat you today my friend. not today. >> anthony: for lunch a modest protein-centric repast of steak. a wagyu angus hybrid bred and raised right here on bill's ranch. >> bill: there's the marbling on the wagyu steak. that's what makes them good. >> anthony: oh, that's nice. and it's pretty damn tasty i can tell you. so you hold an opposing view is that correct, on access? >> david: the idea behind the stream access law that if you stay in water, it's public. i agree with that concept. bill: but where do you draw the line for private property rights? if the state were to pass a law that your restroom was public because the public needed it in your house. >> anthony: right. bill: but just because this isn't my backyard doesn't mean it isn't any less mine than your toilet is yours. we still pay taxes on every foot of it. >> anthony: i'm an old school lefty, but i got to say -- i kind of completely understand the property owner's point of view here. there'd be no
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ambiguity in my feeling if -- if i'd inherited this land and it had been in my family for generations and i looked around at it and wanted to keep it like it is. if i were to go to a bar in town and i would ask how do you feel about this issue, where would it break? what would people say? lee: depends on if you are a fisherman or a landowner. bill: clearly divided right down the middle. david: well, i know a lot of people are going to say when i was a kid i used to be able to go hunt and fish and -- and i can't now if stuff's getting closed off. and i have some sympathy for that. >> bill: anybody that's not complying with what stream access, merely has to step into the stream when he hears you coming. >> anthony: right. >> david: the spirit of it is it makes sense. >> bill: the spirit of its thievery. >> david: well, i -- >> bill: we own it, they took it, and that's not stealing it? without compensation? >> david: i think it's still here. >> anthony: this is about being a good neighbor, right? >> bill: yeah >> anthony: i mean, so if people ask nicely more often than not, you're going to say "yes"? >> bill: we do. it used to be before stream access we seldom required somebody to have permission if they just behaved. >> anthony: right. >> bill: --themselves. after stream access is when the outfitters came into the world. not because we wanted to make
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money but we wanted somebody there patrolling and policing it. the outfitters take care of it. >> lee: a small stream like this can only take so much pressure. >> david: it really can. lee: and so we try to manage it. fish it responsibly. and if someone wants to walk all the way from the smith, five miles up to here and do it legally, i say all the more power to him. >> bill: no. >> david: that's what i'm sayin'. ♪ (avo) get the super, powerful samsung galaxy note9 at sprint. for just $20 per month and save over $390 dollars.
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♪ >> anthony: at first look you'd think this is the worst place on earth. a ravaged, toxic, god-forsaken hill, threatened from above, riddled with darkness below. but you'd be wrong. butte, montana. it is in fact heartbreakingly, poignantly beautiful. the gallous frames seem eyesores for only a second before it becomes clear why they're points of fierce pride for locals for whom they signify and commemorate everything.
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>> aaron: for montanans, many people consider it sort of a black eye. i happen to think it's sort of the essence of montana. >> anthony: aaron parrett was born in butte. he's a professor of literature and a chronicler of the city's colorful literary history. >> anthony: there is something beautiful about this city, right? >> aaron: yeah, the enduring decay. >> anthony: like in detroit or buffalo or cleveland, you can see the aspirations of the builders or the people who they were building for. >> aaron: as i've gotten older i kind of think about it the way europeans romanticized those ruins in greece and rome. butte is america's acropolis. >> anthony: in its hay day, butte produced tens of billions of dollars worth of copper that built, well america. that helped power the country. defended it against germany and japan. without this hill, no copper wire, no electricity. at the turn of the century, marcus daly's amalgamated
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company consumed the others and became "anaconda copper." by the twenties "the company", as it was referred to, was one of the largest corporations in america, generating staggering wealth by today's or any days standards. >> anthony: people came from all over the world to make their fortunes here or simply for steady work; a better life. cornish, welsh, a lot of eastern europeans -- >> aaron: croatians, serbs. very ethnically diverse. >> anthony: by montana standards? or by any standards? aaron: i would say by any standards. it's kind of a micro version of new york city. >> anthony: meaderville was an italian neighborhood and developed a tradition of supper clubs. lydia's was opened in 1946 by lydia micheletti in the fourmile, the valley below butte. so what is a supper club? i've heard about this tradition but i don't really understand what distinguishes a supper club from a restaurant. >> aaron: at least in montana the supper clubs are a variation on meaderville-style. involves this antipasto beginning. >> anthony: sliced beets, sweet
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potato salad, salami and cheese, side salad, pickled peppers, and breadsticks. >> aaron: then when you actually get your entrée, you get oddly enough ravioli or spaghetti or here both, but also french-fries. >> anthony: odd. >> aaron: that may be unique to montana. >> anthony: for entrees seared scallops and white wine sauce for aaron. me, noticing we're pretty much land-locked around here; i go for the extra thick tenderloin of beef thank you very much. >> anthony: this is whacky. it makes no sense. >> aaron: it is somewhat bizarre to have scallops and french-fries. >> anthony: yeah. meaderville no longer around? >> aaron: no, it's not. >> anthony: that went -- >> aaron: it was swallowed up by the pit. >> anthony: right. >> aaron: in the early sixties. >> anthony: for the first seventy years it was hard-rock mining; blasting and digging tunnels deep into the ground. by the 1950s, mining was moving increasingly to above ground. open pit, which meant fewer jobs and a bigger more visible footprint. by 1955 the berkeley pit had become the largest open pit copper mine in the world. as it expanded it devoured
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meaderville and the surrounding neighborhoods. there was money down there to be dug out of the ground and that's what butte had always been about from the beginning. in 1983 the pumps that held back the ground water from thousands of miles of tunnels beneath the city were turned off. the pit filled with thirty billion gallons of water. and as mine tailings and mineral refuse contaminated the water it became a giant insanely toxic lake of sulfuric acid. a monument to greed and heedless exploitation of the earth and something eerily, yet, tragically beautiful. if you're still living here, you've got to have some kind of weird perverse pride in the pit. >> aaron: absolutely! >> anthony: i mean, correct me if i'm wrong. aaron: no, you nailed it. obviously the pit is an enduring emblem of that rapacious capitalist greed. but you also have people here who are proud of -- proud of where they live. the history of butte in many ways is you know this town that should have died and but never
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did. part of that is luck geographically but also the character of the people here. you know, they endured. >> anthony: as you might have gathered by now, this is a working class town. and unusual in that it's a union town. a proudly union town in an otherwise very red state. >> bryant: butte is the most interesting, important town in america that nobody knows about. >> anthony: bryant mcgregor is the owner of the silver dollar saloon in what was once butte's chinatown. >> amanda: so we call ourselves "butte, america." >> anthony: amanda curtis is a former state congresswoman, was born of the labor movement. she's a unionist, an advocate for workers and this solidly union city she calls home. >> amanda: when you got off the boat in ellis island it said butte pinned to your shirt. and it wasn't butte, montana, right? it was butte, america. we were founded by european immigrants who came from
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socialist countries with all these crazy socialist ideas. >> anthony: would you say montana in a stereotypical way is fairly, relatively socially conservative? >> amanda: oh, absolutely but butte is labor town. >> bryant: nobody knows anything about union history. you know, they don't teach it. when the country was at its peak, unions were at their peak. wages were at their peak; unions were at their peak. >> anthony: that was then, this is now. this is the era of "i've got mine jack." amanda: that's what makes butte different. it's not "i've got mine." >> anthony: it isn't? >> amanda: it's, it's truly not. >> anthony: why? >> amanda: union is together. we've grown this community out of taking care of each other. >> anthony: you have to remember what it was like here for workers before unions if you can imagine. men worked underground for as little as three dollars a day, ten to twelve hour shifts six days a week. thousands died over the years in industrial accidents either underground or from silicosis. lungs ravaged from the airborne silicate dust. >> amanda: you don't have any rights in your workplace unless you bond together and have a collective voice.
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>> anthony: in a one company town despite hiring assassins and strike- breakers, buttes thousands of workers successfully managed to unionize. labor costs increased while copper prices slumped. anaconda responded by moving their production increasingly south. way south. to chile. with such impediments as labor laws and fair wages were more malleable. >> amanda: we serve as the example of about what happens if you allow unfettered capitalism. >> anthony: but isn't there something beautiful about unfettered capitalism because look this, this structure here. >> amanda: oh yeah! we powered -- we powered the entire world. >> anthony: as long as they're making that money in the god-damned united states of america first. >> amanda: right. >> anthony: i feel that i'm a patriot but if you're taking jobs away from america to export them overseas. >> amanda: you're not >> anthony: you're not. >> amanda: we've been talking about this for decades in this country right? keep our jobs here. >> anthony: uhm, yeah!
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she's tired of light and there it's pure black. >> anthony: they say that butte is a mile high and a mile deep, and to get an idea of what they mean you got to go down. down deep into the hill. an intricate warren of tunnels whittled through the rock and soil that lay beneath the city was flooded forever by water and darkness. the orphan boy mine is one of the few remaining hard rock mines in the city. today it serves as a training facility for the montana tech school of mines and engineering. >> jim keane: there's five generations of mining here. in order to survive and provide the resources for america, these people were super skillful. >> anthony: jim keane is a state senator and labor advocate who grew up working the mines of butte. how many miles of tunnel under butte total? >> jim keane: ten -- ten thousand miles of tunnel. >> anthony: ten thousand miles!
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>> jim keane: and i figured -- >> anthony: like this. >> larry: they are smaller usually. >> anthony: larry hoffman is a longtime mining engineer and instructor. matt krattiger is the new guy. a hard rock miner by day, he likes to relax by spending his free time down here; playing. >> matt: i come mining for fun on my days off. >> anthony: okay! >> matt: it's one of those things that just gets in your blood. you got a lot of pride in it. >> anthony: these guys like it under ground and even more they seem to like drilling holes deep into the rock face. ♪ [ drilling ] >> matt: you want to drill? >> anthony: sure. [ drilling ] ♪ >> matt: pull that out. then get the feel for where the weight sets on it. >> anthony: oh yeah! cool.
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>> matt: do that several hundred times a day. >> anthony: no! [ laughs ] >> matt: just do it. >> anthony: sweet! >> jim keane: the community recognized the miner was at the top of the food chain. when i grew up, he was considered just like a doctor or lawyer because everybody knew that he was the one making everything work. the other thing about mining is that it is so intensive, i mean you need engineers, guys running ventilation, mechanic or carpenter or a pipefitter. it's just such a diverse asset to have all these different types of people. that's what was so good about it. >> anthony: mining was always dangerous, but these men are proud of what they do and of the generations who came before them. who built neighborhoods and schools and helped power the nation. >> jim keane: they loved their work. they raised their families. they worked all the time. >> anthony: it was a destination with hopes and dreams of hard work leading to a better life. >> jim keane: you know the company's a son of a bitch, let's face it. but they were our son of a
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bitch. so -- so you know that's just the way it was. the community worked to support the people. here's the fun part! >> anthony: cool! >> jim keane: how many holes do you usually drill to make a round? >> matt: oh, between twenty and thirty. >> anthony: what is a round? >> matt: this pattern has to be drilled out and every time you advance the face; that is a round. you drill it, you load it, you blast it, you muck it, you bolt it, you drill it again. and that's a cycle. we're in the loading process right here. they call collar priming or top priming this hole. quick, fill away! >> anthony: back in the day it was dynamite. but in the sixties, they started switching over to this stuff; anfo- ammonium nitrate and fuel oil. >> matt: ok so i've got everything charged up and loaded. now we get to time it. >> matt: this is kind of where i got hooked on mining. as soon as i set that first
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round off it was how do i do another one? >> anthony: dude, fascinating! >> matt: this is where it all starts. >> anthony: all right. >> matt: right here. >> jim keane: everybody got everything out? four seconds to silence. >> anthony: all right everybody's good? everybody's ready? >> miners: yep, alright. >> matt: fire in the hole! [ explosion ] >> miners: one, two, three. [ explosion ] >> anthony: oh yeah, that's deep. >> jim keane: welcome to mining. >> anthony: that's deeply satisfying. woo hoo hoo! >> jim keane: oh yeah. >> anthony: very cool. >> jim keane: can we see the smoke? >> anthony: what -- does that vent it out? >> matt: yeah. the smoke will start moving towards us. you got to get in the smoke. >> anthony: oh yeah. smells like victory. >> jim keane: this is the smell of mining. >> matt: we'll see if it all worked as planned. >> anthony:
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that shock wave was awesome! >> jim keane: isn't it? >> anthony: yeah. >> matt: this is like being an astronaut right now. when we go in there, you are going to be the first person in the world to see what you're seeing. alright! >> larry: did you break it? >> matt: yeah! >> anthony: nice, huh?! happy with your work? >> matt: i'm very happy with it. everything came out just the way it should. >> jim keane: that's another six-foot advance. >> matt: and that is a round. >> anthony: beautiful thing. >> matt: yes, it is. >> jim keane: i fell in love with the dark and the blowing things up and the people and -- >> matt: the people's a big thing. you meet some of the most interesting people. ♪ i know you want to leave me for schwab,
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"so that they can respond immediately when needed." vote yes on 11. ♪ >> anthony: about one-third of montana is public land. it was set-aside for people of the united states of america. generally speaking, it is intended for multipurpose use; timber harvest, grazing land, hiking, fishing, hunting and mining. these open lands are important to hunters and anglers like dan bailey. he's the montana representative for pheasants forever, an organization working to conserve
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pheasants and other wildlife through careful management. >> dan bailey: so this is a piece of property owned by pheasants forever. it's opened to public access. this is through montana's block management system. we sign in, they collect all the tags. they know who's been on the property. >> anthony: today, me and my friend joe rogan are going after some delicious pheasant for dinner. >> joe rogan: yeehaw, ladies and gentleman. >> anthony: joe is of course the voice of the ufc, and the host of the wildly popular podcast, "the joe rogan experience." in recent years, joe has become an advocate for the notion that you should, whenever possible, know where your food comes from. >> joe rogan: the connection that you have with your food when you kill it yourself, it's just a totally different experience. >> anthony: i believe that if you choose to eat meat that you -- there should be a little bit of guilt and shame involved. something did die. so there should be a sense of loss and understanding. >> dan bailey: right here, this is it. i mean, you know where your food comes from. that's as small of a circle as you can get. hey tony, the three things we can hunt here are hungarian partridge, which is a small bird
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in the big kind of view, sharp-tailed grouse, and then rooster pheasants. so note no hen pheasants. i'll call out what it is. >> anthony: yeah, i'm going to wait for you because i sure as hell wouldn't be able to identify. >> dan bailey: so we'll get one person on one side of the draw and one person on the other, and i'll run the dogs through the middle. >> anthony: which way are they going to break do you think? it could be any which way? >> dan bailey: any which way. we're hoping over us. >> dan bailey: hen, hen, hen, hen, hen, hen, hen! >> joe rogan: what happens if you accidentally shoot a hen? do you get in trouble? >> dan bailey: you report yourself. >> anthony: have you ever heard about the walk of shame? so really you have a split second to determine whether it's a shootable thing. okay well, we're counting on you! >> dan bailey: that's a rooster! >> anthony: i could have shot at that too! that was an easy shot.
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>> joe rogan: yeah one of those days, huh? >> dan bailey: public lands in montana; we're, we're fortunate we have a lot of them but you know they get a lot of pressure so uh when you get one of these birds it's pretty special. >> joe rogan: public land hunting is always, always a lot of work. >> dan bailey: in general anybody and everybody can come out here and chase your birds so. hey, there's a bunch of birds right there. see them go on through the trees right there? >> anthony: i saw. >> joe rogan: a bunch of pheasants just got up. let's get serious about this. >> anthony: all right. >> dan bailey: we'll take these dogs to the river. rooster! oh nice shot! jugger! we got to get up on that bank. >> joe rogan: who got it? >> dan bailey: anthony got it! >> joe rogan: nice! i missed that one over here. >> dan bailey: good boy! come bring it here. come. good boy! come on jugger. nice shot! >> anthony: thank you. >> dan bailey: bring it here. come on! drop. here you go!
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montana rooster. good eating! >> anthony: alright man. start plucking! >> anthony: with one in the bag, we meet up with the rest of our party to cook and drink and eat. land tawney is a fifth generation montanan, and active conversationalist. hal herring is a journalist for field and stream magazine. the pheasant is cooked two ways; marinated in soy and fish sauce, sriracha, and lime browned in butter and buffaloed like chicken wings. or dredge it in flower and cajun seasonings, sautéed with garlic and brandy, then braised a bit with stock and wild mushrooms. collard greens and bacon as a side serve as a nice cleanse. >> anthony: man these greens are good! and the bird's delicious. oh yeah! man, an amazing day! >> dan bailey: eating it today. >> joe rogan: man, it was a beautiful day. >> anthony: why should people in new york or san francisco who've never hunted -- in what way does your access to hunting ground
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impact on this nation in a positive way? why should they care? >> joe rogan: well, it's not hunting ground, it's public ground owned by the people of the united states of america. >> hal: and i -- i just see our country -- it's very nuanced and private property is bedrock. but public lands have worked. >> anthony: but you're talking big governments stepping in and saying we're taking all this land and we are going to protect it from exploitation by capitalists. >> land: public land management is not perfect for anybody but it's a path forward. it's not happening anywhere else in the world and the reason it came here is because we are such a great country. but as we move into the future, it's going to take everybody understanding how unique it is to america. >> anthony: to say that hunting and conservation are intertwined -- >> dan bailey: it is an absolute fact! >> anthony: it is an absolute fact but it is a really painful admission. that we are the masters of this environment whether we like it or not. >> joe rogan: as thinking beings we are the only ones in the food chain that understand the consequences of the imbalance and therefore we do have a right to take care of this thing and
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manage it. when it comes to animals that can alter their environment, we're unique. >> anthony: you know, i'm not a hunter obviously. >> joe rogan: we hunted all day today. if you take a shit, you're a shitter. [ laughs ] >> anthony: my daddy didn't take me through the long one. >> joe rogan: it is what it is. >> land: you shot that pheasant; we're eating that pheasant. there's no closer connection to food almost than that. >> joe rogan: i think there's a fundamental misunderstanding by people that don't hunt or people that call themselves animal activists that we don't love the animals as much as they do. and that's just not true. >> dan bailey: we do what we do because we love mother nature, we love wildlife, we want people to enjoy it. you know the three of us, we decided to spend what we do for a living to protect wildlife and to protect access and to protect hunting heritage. >> joe rogan: the fellow living beings that live in a very hard scrabble life. they're howling right now because they just killed something.
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whatever it is, they got a hold of something and they're letting the other coyotes know and they are going to eat it now and that is what they do. >> anthony: you know if you've ever been out on an open body of water where you are just surrounded by the ocean or -- or the desert, or here actually for that matter! you do begin to understand your place in the universe meaning at the end of the day i'm not that different from that pheasant i shot today. >> hal: we're all in it together. the elk, and me, and the wolves; what we do to the world we do to ourselves. we're all in it together. >> anthony: as the evening progresses, the bourbon flows and the fire burns down to coals. a late night vape with joe and earth seems to shift on its axis. later stumbling out of my tent i find myself somehow no longer vertical; looking up -- up at a magnificent bewilderment of stars. ♪
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george: nespresso, what else?
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♪ >> anthony: livingston, montana
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may be one of the prettiest and oddest towns in america. it's also one of my favorites. originally a railroad town. a place where cattlemen could drink and philander. then later, a gateway to yellowstone national park. in the 1960s, the surrounding paradise valley was a popular setting for hollywood films, and local ranchers began to see a strange mix of creative types showing up. first to work on films, but later to stay and play cowboy for real. writers like richard brautigan, tom mcguane, and jim harrison. actors like peter fonda, warren oates, the notorious director sam peckinpah made livingston their home. ♪
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♪ >> anthony: the mint bar opened in the 1920s and holds the oldest liquor license in montana. railroad workers used to drink here. everybody drank here. look at that picture of the bar right there. >> dan lahren: yeah, that picture is this building during prohibition; it was a grocery store. >> anthony: my friend, dan lahren, is a jack-of-all-trades native son. a hunter, fisherman, and a key figure in the life of the town. >> anthony: i mean this is a rough and tumble railroad, cattleman town, right? >> dan lahren: yeah. >> anthony: why did they put a railroad stop here? >> dan lahren: it was x far from
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minneapolis. >> anthony: mhm. >> dan lahren: and x far to seattle, it was kind of middle ground. seven hundred miles that way, seven hundred miles that way. >> anthony: right. i mean who would exemplify the qualities that a preponderance of montanans would aspire to? >> dan lahren: the american indian. the plains indian that lived here before white man because it was a tough, a tough [ censored ] place to live. you know? >> anthony: when's the last time you walked outside, and you looked at those mountains, and you said, "i possibly live in the most awesome place on earth." when was the last time that happened? >> dan lahren: oh, i do, i never take this place for granted. okay, it's one of the most beautiful places that i've been, and i like to enjoy the outdoors, take my son hunting, you know? you know? >> anthony: you know that moment
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when an animal dies, they look at you, and there's a look in their face. i always interpret as, "i'm very disappointed in you." >> dan lahren: yeah, well as an older hunter i'm feeling more and more remorse for the animals that i kill, and that's, that's why i use every part of the animal that i can. i have respect for that creature. >> anthony: i always felt like look, whatever this thing i shot i will treat it the way i would like to be treated. i mean if you're gonna shoot me -- >> dan lahren: yes. >> anthony: please just don't leave me there. >> dan lahren: yeah, don't just rip my breasts out and throw my ass away. >> anthony: yeah. that's a country music song right there. "don't rip my breasts off " [ laughs ] real ingredients, real flavor. chipotle. for real.
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>> jim harrison: time. she procured us drifting through our lives like clouds, riding her like the temptress of horses. you know if you're seeing northern lights, and the
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thunderstorm in the east, and wolves howling all at once, it's sort of nice. do you know they're ninety billion galaxies? i get a little tentative when i hear that. >> anthony: jim harrison is a colossus. a legend, and the last of his kind. >> jim harrison: people forget children grow up making up stories, and that's all i'm doing as an adult. you know? >> anthony: he is one of america's greatest poets. the author of thirty-nine novels and books, many set in montana, including "the legends of the fall." he's a screenwriter and gourmet. in his food memoir, "the raw and the cooked," he chronicles many, many epic meals. he has lived a life that can only be imagined. dan is his friend and confidant, and the two have for years hunted and fished together. >> dan lahren: here's to, here's
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to the game. >> anthony: his health prevents him from hunting, but not from enjoying a meal of spatchcocked hungarian partridge. >> dan lahren: i made a liver loaf with elk meat, elk liver, and pork fat. >> anthony: awesome. >> dan lahren: some spices. gonna have some beets. quail in aspic. >> anthony: quail en gelee. >> dan lahren: en gelee. elk carpaccio. >> anthony: and a morel and chanterelle risotto using a stock made from ten pounds of roasted game bird bones. and smoked trout. >> dan lahren: smoked trout, yeah we caught these on the big horn. >> anthony: you know, this is my problem with montana, all this primitive country-ass cooking that you local yokels do. oh and a risotto with wild mushrooms. it's awesome. every time i come here, it's like are there others like you? >> dan lahren: yeah, a few. >> jim harrison: that risotto is gorgeous. >> dan lahren: excellent. jimmy, do you want to grab a hun? >> jim harrison: mhm. >> dan larhen: okay and a couple of morels. >> anthony: is writing any way to make a living? >> jim harrison: no, not hardly. >> anthony: i try to explain
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this to people. you have to be either a monster of self-regard, delusional, or just so [ censored ] lucky that -- i mean the forces of the universe are aligned against you. >> jim harrison: yeah, the only thing you can do is if you're just completely tenacious and write with a disregard for every outside circumstance there is. most people look in the mirror and say, "you know i'm getting old," or something like that. but shakespeare the poet said, "devouring time, blunt thou thy lion's paws." that's a little better, huh? >> anthony: nice view, i cannot complain about this. >> jim harrison: yeah. >> anthony: so what are you doing around half a year here
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and half a year -- >> jim harrison: yeah. >> anthony: in ah -- >> jim harrison: arizona. >> anthony: arizona. >> jim harrison: real interesting culture. an ever-present border patrol, which i teased a lot. i'll be hunting, and their border patrol plane flies over, and i run under a tree like i'm hiding, and then their vehicles start swarming in they say, "harrison, you asshole." i says, "i'm trying to keep you on your toes." >> anthony: what was it about this place that hooked you? >> jim harrison: well, i'm claustrophobic acutely so, so montana's about the best place you can live. you never feel hemmed in. any direction you could go miles and miles.
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[ laughs ] ♪ it had been very hot for three weeks, so i worked well into the cool night, when at three am a big thunderstorm hit. the lightning was relentless. two hundred years ago when the cheyenne from the east attacked the absaroka in this valley. a group of the cheyenne were massaum, the wolves of heaven, warriors who painted themselves solid yellow. i want to be a yellow wolf of heaven. they disappeared into the lightning.
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>> anthony: miami sneaks up on you. or do we change and find ourselves sneaking up, washing up, ending up in miami?


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