. . ♪ >> umbria. [ speaking foreign language ] it means it's the green heart of italy. not a jealous heart, but a fertile one. ♪ >> arriving in early fall, i chart a course through umbria's ancient forest and misty mountains. this is italy before the romans, a place where families lived close to the land, a land of saintly legends, impossibly

perched-up hill towns and rustic cuisine. stop filming and just eat it. i'm stanley tucci. italian on both sides and i'm travel across italy to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 regions are as unique as the people and their past. [ speaking foreign language ] >> ummian food isn't about expensive restaurants or tricky techniques. it's all about the skill and hard twhoork goes into producing its precious raw ingredients. for instance owe r-- from innovative farmers and chefs preserving traditional ways of cooking this food from the lands and a note for vegetarians watching, umbrians eat a lot of meat, like a lot of it, huge amounts of it. i surrender.

so the pork -- ♪ >> umbria is named after the umry, one of italy's most ancient people. their landlocked homeland is right in the middle of the country. bordered on the rest by its more glamorous neighbor tuscany, it's often overlooked and while the landscape here is similar, the culture is very different. less fancy, if you will. and i hear the locals like it that way. they are like flames, aren't they? i'm heading deep into the heart of tanantino country, world of luscious red wine to meet a man who founded this 25 years ago. we're going to meet big george,

knittian knowned a george owne. he lives on a secluded farm outside of m ha nefalco with animals including the pride of umbria. >> good morning. >> oh, look. wine grapes, only the best for pigs around here. >> carlotta. >> umbria. [ speaking foreign language ] >> in addition to wear all his other hats this you'll renaissance man also somehow finds time to host one of

italy's best loved cookery shows. it takes in all aspects of giorgio and his life on the farm, but the heart of the action takes place here in this very kitschen. on the menu is mialino corked in porkata style, but instead of a whole loin of pork we have a whole piglet and nothing goes to waste. [ speaking foreign language ] >> si.

>> okay. >> very nice, yeah. so this is the lining. >> si. >> that's lining all the organs. >> i'm beginning to feel like a guest on georgione's show, not the other way around. the piglet goes into this joined wood-fired oven for two and a half hours. >> the beauty of slow cooking in a sealed oven is once that door is shut, there's really not much more you can do but sit back and wait. >> okay. >> to umbria. >> cheers. >> cheers.

>> as the lovely wine opens up, so does my friend. ♪ >> yes, two hours have flown birks and the moment we've about waiting for upon us. >> and voila. >> mialino a la georginoe. it's pork with pork on top and pork inside. it's a lot of pork. >> wow. >> oh, yeah. bonisimo.

>> that's too much. ♪ georginoe's loving preparation of the very best fresh ingredients and the alchemy of the slow cook of the wood fire have turned this dish into something really quite spectacular. >> that means? >> si, si. oh, my god. it's so good. viva porko. viva umbria. >> you should stop filming and just eat it.

i surrender, literally. i surrender to the pork. ♪ lemons. lemons. lemons. lemons. look how nice they are. the moment you become an expedia member, you can instantly start saving on your travels. so you can go and see all those, lovely, lemony, lemons. and never wonder if you got a good deal. because you did. ♪ ♪ ♪

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oh, marco's pepperoni magnifico. classic and old world pepperoni® on one pizza—and a large is just $9.99?! the phrase “slice of heaven” comes to mind... marco's. pizza lovers get it. like 5 million others who come here each year i'm could have here to assisi to pay tribute to italy's most relevant saint, francis. approaching the 13th century basil characters i report first time i came here as a young kid with my parents. being an art teach, my dad

wanted our family to see the 28 thespos inside that tell the legend of the st. francis and to help me, quietly, navigate the story is local historian matteo grande. >> most famous. >> he had a connection with nature. probably he was the first environmentalist on the history of the church. >> i remember the first time i game here, i was 12, but we didn't have this opportunity to have it just to ourselves. i mean. >> just for us. >> that's incredible. i feel very lucky. >> legend has it that st. francis renounced his privileged life to walk penniless to walk among the poor folk of rural umbria. he worked for all of god's research people and where better to do that is than in the heart

of italy? >> is he like the quintessential saint of umbria? >> yes. umbria is connected to nature. that's why he's umbria. >> i could stay here all day, but it seems matteo's mind has wandered. >> which is your favorite food? >> it's hard to say. i do like salami. >> in italy, it's never long until someone talks about food, but here in umbria, everything comes back to pork. could you say it's like a religion. knowledge of roots in the saints of assisi and out here in the forest primeval. today is hunt day, and i've been invited to tag along by claudio

federetta. >> mortadella. >> si, si. >> we're hunting boar, but looking at this spread, it's a wond they are are any left out there. claudio's hunting group is the all-female hunting squadron in italy but they are letting me and a few other fellows in on the action today. we have to be very quiet. that's the boar. must have really good hearing. we are just waiting for the okay to go down to try to kill them. people are starting to move forward. things are under way. can you hear me? the boar can't.

♪ the hunters set out in group and take up positions in the valley before. claudia who is six months pregnant, by the way, and i will oversee the proceedings from a suitable vantage point. >> wile boar have roamed the umbrian forests and been a core part of the diet here for thousands of years. long been feared and revered, today they are known as national predators, and the population has to b e controlled.

>> oh, my god. >> now i'm under no illusion where all that salami comes from. but witnessing that short firsthand really brings home the reality of our carnivorous ways. >> this boar will have to be hung for 28 days before it's ready for the pot, but luckily for us claudia's mom and her brigade have been working away on another beast following a family recipe for wild boar ragu. the local boar is full of flavor, thanks to its foraged diet of acorns, roots and even truffles, but to be at its best,

the meat first needs a slow cook with herbs, lemon and vinegar. then she whizzes it up in a blender before adding it to a tomato sauce with salty green olive which is a perfect complement to the boar's richness . ♪ >> thanks to claudia's hunting and traditional culinary skills that her mother soon will be passing down to her grandchild no, one is going hungry today.

that's perfect. these two generations of umbrian women are a force of nature, and they do their ancestors and the boar proud. i would like to make a toast. stop -- i'm going to make a toast to you. [ laughter ] thank you so much, claudia, for taking us -- i'm not going to say it in italian. in englasi. thames so much for taking us all on the hunt today and for all of you, it was a great experience and congratulations, yeah. cheers. thank you, thank you. thank you. >> thank you so much. >> thank you: cheers. ♪ the ragu is rich and comforting and tastes all the better after a day out in the woods. i think if umbria itself had a flavor, this dish would be it.

"stanley tucci, "searching for italy" is brought to you by the all new lexus. go to cnn.com to learn more about type of's life-changing travels and get recipes from all over italy. as a main street bank, pnc has helped over 7 million kids develop their passion for learning through our grow up great initiative. and now, we're providing billions of dollars for affordable home lending programs... as part of 88 billion to support underserved communities... including loans for small businesses in low and moderate income areas. so everyone has a chance to move forward financially.

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♪ i'm scouring are umbria's forests for the backdrop of this medievalch city with snow capped peaks. it's a place torn apart by the volatile fault line that runs beneath t. a series of disastrous earthquakes have battled the area. the most recent in 2016 demolished the city center. six years on, locals are still debating how best to rebuild without changing the town's historic character. ♪ still standing amongst the rubble, however, is one tradition that's been synonymous

with norca for centuries and of all the pork joints in the town, this one reigns supreme. last night i thought i was all pork out, but my mouth is watering already. oh, oh, oh. >> wait a sec. >> okay. >> that's so good. >> literally some of the best -- wow. >> so you can see why they would be called donkey's balls.

you have to use your imagination for the rest of them, the rest of the package. putting innuendo to one side, the salami here really is incredible. the combination of wild herbs from the forest and the fresh mountain air takes it all to another level. i've got to meet the maker. ♪ maestro pepe, that's him on the side manning the sausage machine is the last norcino standing . legend has it that during the renaissance, a master porksmith of norca were so skilled with a knife that on occasion they were even called upon to operate on humans, and they have been

revered ever since for their craft and for their warrior-like work ethics but today the butchers here are struggling to find future porcini. i leave pepe to get back to work. mind you we never stopped the whole time we've been here, and i'm left hoping he finds a worthy apprentice. maestro pepe's dilemma is echoed throughout the forests and veils of umbria, and it seems as if the whole region is at a crossroads between its proud,

ancient traditions ant the pressures of the modern world. >> what's that? >> everything dings these days, doesn't it? everything has to have a bell. >> thank you. >> i want to show you my valley. >> but some umbrians like carlo believes there's a way to combine the past with the present, to fuse the old with the best of the new. ♪ this place is incredibly beautiful. so this is all the trees that you have planted. >> yeah. 20, 21 or so. >> each of these trees holds a secret. what you see laid out here in a perfect grid is a truffle plantation, yes.

black truffles that are farmed, not foraged. are. >> 30 or so years ago, not many people had heard of this umbrian ingredient, but now carlo can barely keep up with the demand and neither can mother nature so he's come up with a solution. >> to create the ideal conditions for truffles to grow, carlo has a special technique for treating each acorn he plants. you take the nut, a little bit of the truffle. >> and a little piece of black with the truffle. we mix together. >> with this. >> and we wait for one year and

we do not put it in the ground. no. no. >> okay. >> with put it inside the ground. >> a year in the pot, in the ground it goes. five years of umbrian sunshine and some rain and there you are, truffles on tap. i wonder if this would work in my backyard. to showcase the flavor of all of these travels car low and his daughter opened a restaurant right here on the farm, and it's her skill and innovation in the fitchen that brings out the best of each season's bounty. >> we need spaghetti.

>> lyric most young umbrians she moved away in search of towns, first going to london and then rome.

>> show combines the distinctly umbrian food tradition with a more modern sensibility. >> yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah. >> si. >> si. of we, yeah. >> the addition of beet root sip spired but nothing upstages the true star of the show, a mountain of truffle. ♪ and now here it comes, a flitting finale in celebration of carlo, alece, the future of the truffle and possibly the future of umbrian cuisine.

>> wait, wow. pasta. >> as for carl over the's black truffle, it tastes woody, nutty and luxurious. you would never know it was farmed, not foraged. ♪ ["only wanna be with you" by hootie & the blowfish] discover is accepted at 99% of places in the u.s. ["only wanna be with you" by hootie & the blowfish] your mission: stand up to moderate to severe

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♪ >> hello. how are you? >> good. >> nice to see you. >> chocolate. >> for the kids. >> everybody says it's for the kids. >> we know we can buy these chocolates anywhere these days, but this is their hometown and this is also where my friend

mato, my friend, is from. >> this is a city where we have two universities, up for italian people and one for -- and it's a city known for jazz. we have an incredible jazz fest fall during the summer. >> yeah. this vibrant city is famous for its independent city. if umians like to do things their own way then peruvians by a mother of 10. long, long time ago when he was ruled by the pope, things -- >> what you will notice on this square is that the church is facing the building of the mayor, and it's not by chance. >> and this is facing the government offices and his hand is on the grich. >> on griffin, a symbol of the

city and that's the message that the pope wanted to send to those. >> he's silencing them. >> yeah. >> this breakoff reached a break crop in 1440 when pope paul hit perugia where it hurt. >> he had to know that one of the most popular foods in umbria and in perugia are salami. prosciutto and salami. he used his hall you know how they put aputs a tax on the salt. >> that was the last straw. the papal army crushed the people in the very streets and the pope built a fortress smack in the middle of the town who show the people who was boss, but that didn't stop the presumingians. their spirit of resistance lived on with a cunning culinary plan,

to rebel against their pred sossor. >> mateo is taking to us a traditional restaurant, a new take on a bortega and in it they use the secret weapon in the battle against the at all tax. >> really. >> si. sfwch >> bon appetiteo. >> the nice thing that you notice is that we have a lot of

salt in this plate. >> yes. >> because we have salami, prosciutto, everything very salty. >> it doesn't get in the way. >> it accepts the flavors. >> that's really rich. >> yeah, it is. >> also hats the poppy seeds on that. >> i like that. food is as food and authentic as i've had anywhere but the setting is incredible. >> how old are you guys? why did you end up working here? >> yeah. chchch. . >> thank you very much, and

thank you. >> having made a good resident in why you another round of salami, it's time to move on from the modern hustle and bustle, it's time to head back. >> delicious food and rich italian culture all here in london. >> it's a food mecca. >> how did this land of fish and chips become a capital of pizza and pasta? >> oh, my good. >> oh, my good. look at the ♪ ♪ ♪ introducing the all-new infiniti qx60.

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so you can live your life. that's life well planned. (driver 1) it's all you. (driver 2) no, i insist. (driver 1) it's your turn. (driver 2) nope, i think it's your turn. (driver 1) i appreciate you so much, thank you so much... go. (driver 2) i appreciate your appreciation. it fills me. (burke) safe drivers save money with farmers. (bystander) just for driving safely? (burke) it's a farmers policy perk. get farmers and you could get a safe driver discount simply for having a clean driving record for three years. (driver 3) come on! (driver 1) after you. (driver 2) after you. (drivers 1 and 2) safety first! (burke) get a whole lot of something with farmers policy perks. ♪we are farmers.bum-pa-dum, bum-bum-bum-bum♪ ooh, i can't wait to get you home! ooh! i'm gonna eat you up when you get home. oh my goodness. oh yeah. i can't wait. i'm just gonna bite you! oh, baby. that looks amazing! marco's. pizza lovers get it.

>> of all the faure tale land scapes i've seen in umbria, this one may be the most breathtaking. perched atop a cliff of volcanic rock, or sri etto is visible for miles in every direction. its ornate cathedral reaching up to the helps is one of thech finest in italy and beneath its dazzling dome, or vietto has more stories to tell. ♪ local chaff valentina is on her way to give me the grand tour, but i've got time to try a local delicacy charmingly called il baffo meaning moustache because

the stripsch resemble one, sort of. >> hi. >> nice to meet you. >> nice to meet you. >> how are you? >> very well. >> such a measure to sigh here. >> a pleasure to come. thank you. sorry, my mouth is full. >> good. >> that's delicious. traditional recipe, done with vinegar and sage. very easy. it was my grandfather's breakfast when i was young at 9:00. >> thank you. >> and just like that is correct, valentina whisks me away leading me downwards like alice in warned land into a lab rite of tunnels and caves. >> we have to go down. >> down. >> down, down, down. >> but unlike alice, it's not like a rabbit that comes to me, but another small animal that people have dined on for centuries. >> here we are. >> incredible. >> yes. >> this is the house of womenon,

my favorite pigeon. after you will know why. >> we're going to taste it. >> yeah. >> what we're looking for here are in fact dovecotes, carved into the wall by the etruscans that found or vietto thousand of years ago. the nesting here gave the townspeople a source of meat without having to stray outside the city walls. >> they would come here and roost and at what stage who they eat the pigeons? >> usually when they were ready to fly. >> yeah, when they were babies. >> yeah. the babies are for food. >> for food, right. >> today pigeon is still an orvietan stable. it's one of the town's significant dishes and anyone exciting locals can run the

restaurant backwards. she's pioneered a new approach. >> yes. >> we are here with the pigeon, poor pigeon. that's a nice cut in this way. >> because pigeon can be tough, value tina cooks the bird two ways, ensuring it's moist and flavorful. half the pigeon is "boy erased" traditional and the other far and wide >> you never trained as a chef. >> never. >> it is something that i studied as an accountant, useful for my job but for not cooking. this is the breast. >> beautiful. >> and you put it in the sauce, marinade. >> marinade. >> soy sauce. >> yeah, and then to cook in s 0 s vide, modern technique of cooking. >> to make it moist. >> and this is easy. >> this is the easy part. for the legs.

>> just like most time-honored pigeons no part goes to wet. >> it has to cook together in the pan with olive oil. >> the heart. >> and the liver. >> very bloody. >> yeah. >> everything. >> and go down. >> the kidneys, the liver, the heart, everything. >> like you killed someone. >> carrots, onion, thyme and sell ray goes into the pot and it needs to cook long and slow to make it tender. valentina got up early and started this one earlier. >> wow. >> thank god for the etruscans. >> right. >> i've always said that. >> right. >> i mean, come on. >> that's so good.

>> thank you. >> the s 0 s vide breast guess a little seer in the butter to crisp up the skin. >> gracie. >> come on. i love that. wow. grazie. thank you so much. incredible amount of history in that little bowl right there. and then a piece of it with something new. it's so delicious and nutritious. >> thank you. >> it's really good. >> thank you. (fisher investments) it's easy to think that all money managers are pretty much the same, but at fisher investments we're clearly different.

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it's incredibly rich soil here. it's really beautiful. this is a perfect example right here. you can see all that gorgeous soil that they've just tilled. >> my time in umbria is almost over, but i can't leave without visiting a certain farm on the tuscan border. my friends collin and olivia firth have a home here, and olivia's twin brothers have had a st. francis-like epiphany, leaving their old lives behind

to do something very special with a plot of land next door. >> sale. >> together, twin. >> sale. >> welcome. >> come through, come through. >> how beautiful. so i haven't seen you guys. last time was like 3 1/2 years ago. >> we change our life, basically. >> you totally changed your lives. >> i totally. i was engineer job. >> and you were living in rome? >> yes. >> you were living in rome. and you were living -- >> in between london and milan, a fashion entrepreneur, playing the big manager. and now became a farmer. >> this is no run-of-the-mill farm, though. the twins have a passion for sustainability and love to experiment by cross pollinating long forgotten varieties to create supercharged new vegetables. >> so taking a flower from a tomato, which is good, but it's not really resistant to climate change. to the summer, it was 45 degrees. >> yeah. >> and go to another plant,

which is really resistant and crossed them. and as an example, is what came out. >> oh my god, look at that color. >> this is a mix between a black one and actually this one. and this one is much more resistant than this one and sweeter? >> sweeter, to the heat. >> that's good. what began as a childhood dream has evolved into a very real 60-acre farm and extensive seed library. >> we start cultivating all these wild kind of mustard, wasabi, edible flowers. >> oh, yeah. i love you can eat that. and you guys eat meat. >> we didn't turn vegetarian for this. in umbria. >> if you don't love your meat, you better move. >> exactly, you better move. >> i have to stand up. my knees are killing me.

>> we squat a lot. >> if i were 40, i could squat a little longer. alessandro and nicola's inventory now extends to over one thousand varieties of fruit and vegetables. but keeping this many different plants healthy without using any pesticides is no easy feat. what was the word before? you've developed a word. >> agri con cura. it's the duty of carry. so agri with care. that then pays you back with the taste, the colors, with the consistency. >> yeah. the twins' nurturing philosophy doesn't just apply to plants, but to people too. there is a sense of community and family feel on the farm. >> we're going start picking up some ingredients for our lunch. we're going to get aubergine. >> look, it's an ostrich egg.

>> it's called dragon, actually. we got this because they've got a very special, special taste. they don't get soggy. i put them on the fire like that, burn them a bit and cut them in half and eat them with a spoon, like a little dessert. >> farm in-house chef davide is fanning the flames to make one of the specials of the day, eggplant caviar. pulled straight from the ground and simply pricked with a knife, these are going to be delicious. while they roast, it's time to start the pasta course. this is one of my favorite things. alio is garlic. alione, big garlic, and that's that. all right. go ahead, put it in. >> the tuscans next door like to claim this mellow tasting garlic as their own, but don't tell

that to the umbrians. its classic partner is a simple pasata, made from tomatoes harvested just a few weeks ago. thick enough to hang on to the sauce, these are the perfect sauce to go with it. >> oh, look at that. gorgeous. >> now you see why they call it -- >> caviar. >> eggplant caviar. >> what is that? tarragon? >> the secret ingredient. >> a little touch of humanity in there, yes. >> if you happen to have a bruschetta -- >> oddly enough, we do. more salt. >> more salt? >> would you mind helping me? >> of course, yes. so eat, eat, eat, manga, manga, manga.

wait, i need a 40. >> umbria's answer to fine dining. >> this is incredible. >> the twins and this farm. >> bon appetito. >> bon appetito. >> really encapsulate italy's heart and its strong independent culture, embracing the past and the future, always on its own terms. and given that, you have to agree with big george. viva umbria, viva that cucina italiana, viva noy. thanks, my man. >> my story, it's complicated. but i wouldn't change a thing. when i was 13, i got a job working at mcdonald's just to be able to buy tennis shoes. mama didn't want us to move to