pray i, russia, and ukraine taking part in the negotiations, being led by france and germany. i next here on d. w. a documentary fast fashion, looking at the business of cheap clothing and bread golf. we'll hobble world news at the top of the out. i'm good. with, with nico is in germany to learn german pollution pinnacle. why not learn with him online, on your mobile and free chef t w's e learning course, nikos vague. ah

ah, great deal, but there is a high cost of fashion that i could just cover ye. yes, this would have thought there was years. yeah. yeah. or jackie font it. the one g is almost up against under that small do less. it able, a map, again, was a she, in fact he, they shut me a few me cisco venue, the turn fast fashion has become it by word for kind of dodgy practices. fast, fresh in is a huge business, and one that does not appreciate crying. i fuss. fashion has engendered arising in formality arising preparatory turnaround from designed to the finished product must be as fast as possible the whole process from order to delivery 12 days with factories located in the heart of britain.

i see both there our the tech cell industry has a huge environmental impact. actually, we are just even leave her, but she's only been difficult. only the story of this pretty little dress expose is the dark side of cheap fashion. a our planet is being swamped in clouds with some 56000000 tons sold every year. the number sold in europe has doubled since the time of the millennium.

to day, the textile industry is valued at about 3 trillion dollars. it has grown exponentially . there is some numbers that say it's quintuple than volume. that is absolutely crazy. the figures that i have seen estimate that by 2030, the industry will expand by an additional 60 percent with production costs continuing to fall and new collections made as an ever faster rates. customers can constantly refresh their wardrobes and fast fashion is the commerce of very inexpensive clothing that you are expected or you are ready to replace very rapidly. it's very typical for the fashion forward buyer to never where an outfit that they purchased. you will wear something once or

twice, or maybe never mass produced cheap clothes or a disaster for the environment. how could this be allowed to happen? among the leaders in disposable fashion is a once small spanish brand that's become a global giant of the industry. zara now has more than 2000 stores in almost 100 countries. sorry launches 65000 new products every year on the traditional manufacturers normally have closer to 5000 before. so that's over 10 times the number one with about 65000 new products. a cost $200.00 models per day. every month they replace 3 quarters of their collection with what their competitors do it more like every 4 to 5 months won't. 0 is founded in laconia, galicia in north western spain,

a world away from the countries fashion, capitals, madrid, and barcelona. laconia is the capital of the region and home desirous parent company in detects the labels. sarah, bash curse, thrandy body, use and musty mow duty can all be found here under one roof in 2016. it hosted the 80th birthday celebrations for doris founder. i'm unseal. ortega heads an empire spending 7 and a half 1000 branches with 170000 employees. total annual profits over 3000000000 euros. ortega is one of the richest people on the planet. and one who is famously media

shy. for this film as well, he declined to give an interview in order to outpace the competition, sorry, established a unique system. it overseas the entire chain of operations from the textile factories to the retail outlets, enabling it to maximize the speed of production. czar bizarre, an aids for wakes from the moment they decide on a new model until the day it arrives in stores with rivals. it's more a matter of $56.00 or 8 months every week. there's something new to discover the range of items changes at such a pace that it encourages shoppers to come back from. the feeling of potentially missing out means that our customers visit stores 17 times a year. whereas with the competition, it's only 3 or 4 times. he, sir, cuz he corner pocket for 9. it's rare for, for missouri employees to reveal secrets behind the spanish giants machinations.

this french designers spent 3 years working for indie tex. she designed genes for bash, her a label which targets a younger clientele to, to talk as flip everything as engineer to minimize time losing on. so it's so obviously a case of copy and paste on for just quickly. so that's part of the reason why i left it eventually, it was too much fast, extreme time pressure makes it impossible to produce truly original items. so the designers go on undercover missions to see what the competition has on offer . clear j. novi algebra since janet all designers travel to get inspiration of while so for zera we go shopping at high end boutique and classic fashion houses,

so as not to miss out on the latest trends. steve jessie, keeping some we'd buy items that we thought were crucial and examined them in terms of shapes, fabrics and colors. well, office you and i believe. and if we had something that met all 3 criteria, if you tried to copy it, if you don't, yes. designers by items of interest and then adapt them into low cost versions. under very precise specifications, won't be the form as young were present. we have copyright training sessions several times a year and calling to make sure we didn't make one to one copies for the computer. it all you had to have at least 7 points of difference to avoid getting sued by multiple treatable. you had to create differences his are exactly this is it's hard to follow fashion with friends and not copy them me for, but i real balancing it weird to you now and again, some of those small fashion labels trying to fight back and sue the cooperation.

but they rarely succeed. one manufacturer refused to agree to a financial settlement rains. the danish company, manufacturers raincoats, sold in over 20 countries for higgins hoola rosario lisa, lorenzo, founder daniel brakes designed the brands biggest success. so this green ranking talkies. while this was actually one of the pictures with it and when we discovered the copy in the market. so here we have 2 trims, wearing the same jacket. fortunately, one of the twins bought that the sarah jagat and,

and also to have their written arrange digger on the right. the original on the left, the cheaper edition from sar up. the design has been stolen for sure. i don't even a can of understand the motivation of doing something which is so similar. since it's so easy to do something which is a bit different, like everybody else to. but in this case, they have made a product that says one on one, the same a clear example of a copy without the 7 stipulated differences. an error that should not have happened . after all, the firms legal department can reject to government, it deems too risky. i shall calling for every time we made a logo or a printer. we show it to the legal people and usually it was approved. no. yeah. if i to import him a that sometimes we get feedback saying,

be careful. it's too similar to it. and then the garment had to be reworked and i for it drove our graphic design team crazy that i sister devine fuqua. a legal battle with indie tex, can be a pre see undertaking that rains is a successful brands. the danish company decided to take the risk and sue for plagiarism. while a case like this say, cannot be done far for less than $300000.00 euros. and even more than that, so is relatively expensive. we hired in private detectives in china to find out information about the whole process of application. our products. we have for 2 factors confirming that they were instructed, gwen lawson agent, that they were to make the same jacket as i was fathers, cost of all sorrow and spain. in the spring of 2023 years after the suit was submitted, the sorrow was found guilty by

a danish court. it had to reimburse commercial damages and agree not to imitate to reins products. again. clothes make people more the case to day than seldom before. around half of all, instagram posts are connected to fashion and beauty products. chemicals is a social media star. he posts new photos and videos daily for her followers. on to the pseudonym nolleta. in la g, i see we have a $1000.00 of it's unique kinda sus of it. and so nasty gal. gina knew it

got 80 percent of my wardrobe as fast fashion vasquez. she have always been a shopping addict and i love to change my outfits around. did the thing when i see something, i order it. i have to have it right away and don't want to wait for a job. you know, with you this reflexive impulse to buy is no coincidence . it is specifically triggered in certain areas of the brain. this is the field of research. if the american psychologist, alexander jeff ski, he's an expert in neuro economics. ah, there's an area that is just about here that is called the venture straight am or the nucleus or cummins. and this is a part of the brain that is often associated with reward processing or positive

emotions. so most of the things we care about how positively someone is responding to a product or a firm or a brand will be, are represented by activity in this region. the more manufacturers know about the way our minds look, the more they can influence our purchasing behavior. fast fashion treaters, our brains reward circuits with the primary factor being the price. la, la de la here for example, you can see something there. cost around $15.00 euros counselor or lab i'm wearing and asked to go sweater and jeans from building. i think the sweater caused around 20 years and the pants. 13000. if the price is particularly low, specifically if it's low compared to what you're used to seeing or alternatives in the marketplace, it can actually be seen as a positive aspect or part of the appeal of a product you see of less as having to sacrifice that amount of money, but more that you are getting something and able to save much more than you would

have had to pay otherwise way affect, you know, to relieve his own shore. the lower the price, the more things you put in your basket alva and you end up with more than you'd plan to this employer. that's the trap. low prices, limited edition collections and no end of stimuli and incentives. above all via social media. fast fashion is abandoning traditional advertising p to its high cost and limited scope for targeting specific groups. instead, companies now recruits influences like no lit up. now you go from a company telling you why you should be interested in a product to an individual that you aspire to be your you really like it seems like these people are talking directly to you and recommending these product design influences are the stars of this new form of advertising,

where every fan or follower is the potential customer, the higher the profile of an influence. so the more money they earn, no liter can earn up to $5000.00 euros for one video alone. i don't say down washington. a big change for brands because we sell their products and also they spend increasingly larger budgets on influencers because we're about to sell something young and instagram. we can even post links and all are so all at links to address or shoes. so afterwards, people end up on the vendors website and we get paid according to the sales that were made via these leong on stories of intrigued yesenia. we spend an average of 2 to 3 hours a day on our smartphones. one in 2 uses has a shopping up book, enters the new mall. when you're looking at a young generation where it shops constantly, constantly shops, you're constantly online and you're constantly clicking and your credit card is

memorized by your smart device and you click on something and you click and it comes to your house. the traditional leaders in fast fashion have had to reevaluate their strategy model in response to the success of companies that sell exclusively online. they are faster and cheaper and all the inventors of ultra fast fashion. boohoo is one of these new online giants. in 2019 the turnover of this british brand approached 1000000000 euros. it has its own flagship label, in addition to others, including pretty little thing. with the blue web site features this dress for 9 euros. the kind of price where you

might assume it was made in an asian factory. this government, however, was made in europe. ah, to be exact. in lester, a city with a population of some 300000 people in the english midlands. until the 1970s. it was a hub of the british clothing industry exporting its textile products all over the world. thousands of workers were employed in large scale factories. the textile sector has returned to lester all day. it's with working conditions normally associated with the developing world. a clandestine world in which cameras on not welcome

death, but look like a kind of new less figured you're doing well, i guess you either when you go for as you go on the green ones, people say mid career, literally 100 phone guns enlisted in 15 minutes note the man permitting us to film . sie, eat kill g originally from pakistan. he's one of the city's most successful entrepreneurs is effective over making garments. how many people, all would you like to do really late interview? again, this is one of the biggest factory, lester. all 1st person coming from lester and lister has given to manufacturing capacity that nobody has in

u. k. not even the new k. nobody has in whole europe, lester can deliver any governments within unbelievable delivery time. lester is muster of fashion. governments manufacture is partly returned to lester, due to its location in central england, which some the logistical front means saving time. and time is very much a factor for said kill g in addition to developing his own label. he also supplies, british fast fashion brands to the whole process from order to delivery it so well, this is the unique point of lester, of our industry here that we can do quick fi, so squeak delivery. the public is available here all the time. so if the customer

needs very urgently, we can provide them within 2 weeks times. we can do monday, we can not lose one hour. forget one day the. this is our we are calculating hours admitted here. not days. clothing designed to produced and delivered within 2 weeks that's twice as fast as zera and it unbeatable prices. but that efficiency comes at a high price. the factory district with its opaque system of subcontractors has become a lawless zone. we have few number of very powerful brands or retailers buyers at the top that place orders to have very large number of smaller manufacturers that chaise small

orders every day. a busy engenders competition and pushes prices down for manufacturers. it's always important to take any or that they can get, even if they don't have the capacity to fulfill the order. and that is part of the problem they have to sub contract. and often they subcontracted to 2nd or 3rd tier factories where working conditions are of a much lower standard. then they might be in the 1st year manufacture as can be seen all over the city, there's no shortage of vacancies for all jobs in the production process. hey, tanya, is a journalist equipped with a hidden camera? she goes undercover for a look inside the clothes factories of lester. i'm

looking for a job good. now if somebody is looking for somebody, i learned very quickly for my work at home for job. i don't faking james julia already do. grand bruce, i'm here all the hotel weeks. so do know somebody who's looking to close on walker's little this time is google mobil. okay. but this one goes no dog dinner and yeah, no problem. with the windows the covered up, it's the middle of winter and there's no heating the boston says some a trial period without pay ah her just work with me. there are for doretha even sleep on

there. our 3 pounds parella is below the stand to tree minimum wage in britain. in fact, less than half of it a even 14, no, no, hold on. i know i should i come here every morning. okay. 6 to 6 o'clock. mm hm. i will try this one. you're not in any of these on yours training comprises a brief demonstration on a sewing machine. i can totally agree. this one is told yes and torture. this skirt skirt soon of a seamstress tonya is making skirts without pay. ah,

the skirts will be sold online by a major, fast fashioned label. to leave till full. pretty little a pretty little thing belongs to the boohoo group, the skirts soon bye, tanya will sell for 15 euros apiece. ah, ah, it's barely one p. m. when suddenly work stops, orders have dried up. workers employed on an hourly basis, a sent home with no compensation pay. first,

fashion has engendered arising in formality arising per character. workers essentially work on a system of informal 0, our contracts. so the never have a contract with to you to model. yes, you know, i mean my the st trees in less to have a bad reputation prompting many labels to shift production elsewhere. but not the blue group with pretty little thing. i label very much on the rise in 2019 it's sales doubled to a total of almost $400000000.00 euros. ah, ah,

pretty little thing declined a request for an interview. so we headed for the opening of its courtesy and show room to speak to it. see who mar kamani is the son of the founder to whom mac mood kamani. the company has made him a billionaire surrounded by his body gods. kamani dounia ref oldest in the pop star like attention. i don't think we want to be more than a fashion website. we want to be our launch, rob, run. we wanna give good um meaning to the customer. you know good volume. if you have a daughter, we think great, oh think should inspire gold in the right way with the address here it's address. it's 15 euros. oh you reload. you do a thrift in it's made into you. okay. how do you do that? no worries. i margin is brazil. what i don't wanna work

with, i don't answer questions like way i don't have done doug russian door. no, but i'm just not doing a simple question. how is it for somebody else with us? no. or somebody else with workers got off a problem up there, minimum level. we know about all if you had with with after this eventful meeting, we received a statement from pretty little thing old textile workers that pretty little thing

are treated fairly and receive at least the minimum wage group producing clothes at such a low price comes at a high environmental cost, the textile industry is the 2nd biggest pollution in the world after oil. for one part, one ton of fabric, as we call it, 200 tons of water polluted, shall one to 200. as the ratio, the moore commerce, there is the word pollution, there's going to be without efficient filtration and clean up technology. if the fashion industry is going to expand by an additional 60 percent in the next 10

years, then we're gonna get 60 percent more pose under the pressure of public opinion. the textile industry is trying to re brand at trade shows. the color of choice is green. organic, sustainable recyclable, green fashion is in trend and one particular fabric embodies this shift. viscous cheap, artificial silk, popular with fast fashioned brands. this red dress from a so sand the snake print, designed from blue, who i made of 95 percent vascos. so this is the wood from here you make the boat

and they me 5 of so that's wescal, this in the mostly phone. and from here you'd become young from young, the father of ross's bigs from where you saw the word dog kind of sort of occasions you fallen do all that would be good. a house you need to be brought up there. this goes is more equal from this coast is only manufactured by a handful of companies around the world. among them is the 80 tire bella group, a $40000000000.00 indian conglomerate. indie tex h in m a. so all the big names by their vascos from bella, we believe that the planet comes o philosophy,

a forest of fish in shoes that when this coast, according to bela, is a blessing it. what's good for the planet is what's good for us. but transforming wood into fabric requires a huge amount of chemicals. one of the most dangerous is a highly toxic solvents, carbon deisel, fide or cs, 2 well as marketed as a green product. is it basically a lie? yes, it's an extremely interesting poison. boom, boom. the danger emanates from the fumes produced to give the viscous it thread, like texture c, as 2 is added to the wood pulp, which has been immersed in a bath of sulphuric acid. miller,

this is sulfuric acid. the carbon by sulfide leaves the cellulose. unfortunately where it leaves the cellulose to is the work room where the workers are working. it just goes into the air nata in the indian state of my dia. predation is home to the bill. are groups 1st, factory built in 1956. it's a city within a city with a workforce of 5000 toiling away he had day and night. oh, journalists, unknown welcome. oh, bloom has assimilated the house problems associated with c s 2 in a book. they include, i disease in facility and vascular problems. when i did my work on this book, i visited the areas in wales where these large factors had been i started to get

emails from people and they would say, you know, by father died at the age of 42 from a heart attack he worked in the fact room doing now, we never got a penny and i shall paval began working at bella in 1981 in june 2019. he suffered a heart attack which he says was caused by his job. yes, maam, there? yes. i consider the company responsible. who do i think the heart attack i had was because of my work there. we fly, filtered the viscous picked up. got them to school school. thought. oh no, no. were you given any training training? niddy medical data, though i know i was made to work without training help. they told me to just go ahead. we filtered the c s 2 by hand with cloth and the copper elegant though the company never gave me any warning. your call yet no official ever said anything,

but they told me that doing this job was safe and company id is mac. i'm gonna go to mcfadden yoga, is how comical at the age of 58, i shall. paval is on indefinite sick leave without pay. abbey shit, carinthia is one of the few residents of nectar to take action against the pollution linked to the factory. a law student, he filed a complaint against the company to live. they are lord, allowing the people who come inside the company. they are just hallway of hide, though alden in front of the alban. nobody can bear correction against them. they were there have too much longhand. the students complaint alerted the regional authorities. in january 2020, the pollution control agency inspected the bella factory. the facts,

he was ordered to change its practices. most importantly, officials demanded a study of the effects of pollution on the health of workers looking in particular at comp and i so fight c. s 2 norse of nectar along the cham ball river. there are 20000 people living in around 20 villages. ah, among them miss palmer, katy located 4 kilometers from the prompts. for years the villagers have been reporting health problems. ah, the residence complaints were finally taken seriously by the authorities. to day a team of doctors has arrived to examine residence among the patients

. is this father who came with his 2 disabled sons? oh, his dea, to my daughter that these children were born healthy. they used to be able to walk and go to school. this one walk to school until the 6th grade levels, mademoiselle, so his muscles were functioning normally. but little by little, they degenerated her and now he's in a wheelchair you're gonna get, well, you said a little guy i there are no official statistics that many villages show similar symptoms, paralysis, articulation problems. and even loss of speech. in the

single family they are 3 people are suffering from physical disability. live their lives been uh 26 year old. and they bought brother, uh, 2340 actually the i just physically disabled and the growth of the 40 this stop. and you just see the head of there, girl, she the little difficult with the government up tis county 209 individuals with house complaints linked to pollution for locals. there's one main suspect, bella. they accused this of having dumped its waste into the river for decades. in the village of palmer,

katy has no running water. people here drink water from wells fed by the river. in 2018 villa began distributing drinking water to villages in the area. it finances 6 daily deliveries providing 90 liters of water for each family. a company that are willing dub drinking water way with the company. give free woods. this is gene everson because they know that they are responsible for the volition, although the why they are the florida, the water do the nor did these hello deborah already drink to live. and they know their dad responsible for the village on the, on liberal in the water for drinking for bus. not other uses to water their fields. the farmers in palmer katy still use polluted water from the

river. in january 2020, the authorities ordered bella to improve the water quality downstream from the plants but bill, or denies all responsibility, insisting that any pollution is unrelated to vascos production. o. meanwhile, global demand, francisco's is soaring. the factory and non actor has plans to expand capacity and its facilities blue, and the fashion industry wants us to believe it has increasingly sustainable credentials. but in reality, the opposite is the case. the lifespan of a fast fashion garment is short. and not only because in some cases, things are only worn once and then discarded. he's as clad on stickers. sia lucas

carmen has not been warned. very often. you can already see signs of pulling around the hips, struck scene visit with this dress. the fibers have quickly become worn out child so no longer looks noun. faked hadn't guesses. shawn nish, man neu, are seed before when it comes to these fast fashion items. you couldn't sell them in a 2nd. hand store. either loudon and for carlsbad and con. under one percent of our clothing can be recycled every year for 1000000 tons of textiles, end up in the trash here in europe. can we stop this fast fashion craziness? there are small bran supporting slow fashion closed of a higher farrah and most sustainable quality

effort. soon reached their limits because slow fashions seems to have a limited appeal. studies by the french fashion institutes revealed the stores with less new items, simply see a lower financial turnover. with i had a dollar for every time somebody asked me, tell me what i should bye. as a nothing, nothing. you have way too much stuff already. but now what do we do? what do we say? stop spending money. this is not a viable economic solution, not shopping as not a solution to the industry. so fast fashion will continue to be popular and it will continue to show, strives towards improving toward circularity. so we might see minor improvements and product development,

but we will not see the end of the vast fat it ah, to the point, strong opinions, clear positions, international perspectives, half chinese leadership during pain and russian president vladimir putin joint forces against the west. is democracy under pressure, and how should nato and the you respond to the challenge? find out on to the point. to the point with

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ah ah, this is d w. news live from berlin tonight. the ukraine crisis between warnings and war gay moscow estate g wargames close to the ukrainian border while talked to revert a russian invasion of ukraine continue german chance or what shoulds telling russia not to underestimate the wes resolved. also coming up tonight, germany is foreign minister handling a bare balk. begins her 1st official trip to the middle east with a visit to jerusalem's holocaust.