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tv   [untitled]    November 2, 2013 8:00pm-8:31pm PDT

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seated in the bull writingy store had taken control of the business in 1932 had managed to props even in the war and was posed to meet new challenges and to seize new business tuntsd offered to them as rome became the hollywood on the tiger. now given the high-level of jewels and gives me at bully at the time and the strategic position of the one and only store in the heart of rome bully became the number one designation of all famous and glamour railways beautiful women continued to expand bullries
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family well beyond the confidence of italy. as early as 1949 when joem tours got married they choose their wedding abandons at bully and you can see them doing that on and on up on the top tyrone powering and his bride choosing the wedding rings but in the 193 os they celebrities spent their entire first money at bully. now you can see this famous actor here with her matching brochures.
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mann i don't think is known for playing humble characters hence it comes as a surprise to find here passionate with the large jewels you can see her here wearing on her little finger her 25 carrot buggery ring. when i had the opportunity to ask ca son when his mother began to collect bullyingy he said when mommy made money. the great region pictured here with her dynamics this jeweler download as a at the are a. now she told me at the beginning
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of her career she managed to buy an expensive coat. she was so excited but what she considered an externally x haven't purchase she doesn't sleep all that night now, when she bought this a few years ago sniping of the price she slept all night long and have long been surprised by her reaction >> she told me among the host of beauties and celebrities one can't not mention lisa taylor who had more bully pieces later. it would be impossible for me to
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show you all the defying vascular but to give you a taste is sophie lauren in paris with a gentleman wearing a very important rubin i didn't and a diamond necklace and claudia wearing a 66 carrot pear-shaped diamond drop and another actor wearing a loaned magnetic necklace. if it's set with 7 large columbine emerald over 1 hundred and 87 carrots. it's known in bully as the 7 wonders because it was and still is considered one of the finest
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jewelers every created. it's wonderful for the 7 emeralds perfectly matched in size, shape and a color. it was sold in the 1960s to a wife of a italian industrial i thought and brought back for the collection. now what you've seen from the jewels that the bully jewels i've shown they continue to be independent to the high trends of jeweler. they were mount in platinum and the colored gives me were employed individually in association with the diamonds and not combined with other colored give me stones. emerald were mounted that diamonds and rubbing i didn't see were mounted with diamond
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and so forth. there are some rather hints of a future trend and if one looks carefully for example, at this sapphire and a diamond necklace one can see it's mounted are gemstones the sapphires are polished and this is a sense of roundness and this will be a characteristic of bully jewels. likewise, the bracelets one of which was made in 1955 and the other in 959 are formed with the elements. and once again this roundness becomes a feature in the jewels that we're going to see in coming in the following slides.
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now among the most distinctions still in the vein of passively run it was the were the broaches that were set with faminescy diamonds and they were greatly falsified by bully client tell. they were worn as broaches or in the hair as you can see here england rid bergman and the former here's us of iran. now the peculiar all right. of the jewels is their mounted in springs to allow them to quiver. this way of moving was not a novelist at the time it dates back to the 19th century and is
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particular to the french jeweler so it goes back a long time by bully adopted it in the mid 20th century to mount those jewels are and in particular they choose the designs because johnson a bullyingy a had acquired a large diamond from a diamond dealer in paris so it was a challenge to mount differently shaped and a colored joem stones but how successfully he managed to do so by creating those kwifr jewelers. it was, however, from the 1960 onwards that bully enhance to mixing all colors together and urging them as can be john gems
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and their compacted symmetrical shapes. at first, the combiekz were simple just dark sapphires and pail sapphires but gradual the combination became bolder. and now another characteristic as i mentioned was this idea of compacted shapes are not only color but the patch shapes a complete departure from the a symmetrical. so the bully new style that begins to develop is characterized by color, knack, rounded shapes. one of the most iconic pieces in
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because a necklace dated to 1965. it is set with very bold color combinations as you can see here. green emeralds and purple am sits. it's interesting that color is used really as if it was just like paint. bully is not concerned with the individual intrinsic value of the gemstones. what counts is the ultimate effect. here your mixing expensive irmdz and next to am authenticities it doesn't matter just the outcome effect. notice the beauty of the back of this piece. the front of the jewel and the back have to be of the equal quality. the back of the jewel this
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beautiful finish we'll be able to see is the back is indicative of the quality of a piece. so i think you could wear this piece back to front. it's not surprisingly that this piece was immediately bought by an american chavrlz webb son the founder of ref lesson for his beautiful wife len. i managed to buy back this necklace for the buggery vintage heritage collection. the retrospective collection of jewels that's not for sale. it featured on the front cover felt first bully major retrospective of 2009 and was
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chronological as the image of 3 had the 5 million stamps celebrating bullries 1 hundred and 5th ann versed and on a limited edition of minute relay water. another iconic piece is the reoccurring ingrins of the style knack shaped this magnetic necklace of 1967. incidentally those are mainly mount in yellow gold which is another departure from the jewels that were intend to be mounted in white precious metal. now the timeliness is the fact that this necklace made in 1967
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was chronological to be one or more on the red carpet of the academy awards and now bully ever since this necklace is known after that actress. now in the 1970s the third generation of bully came to take over the leadership of the company after the death of their respective georgia bully with who died in 1966 and the other in 1973. his sons took over the family business and here you see them
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seated in the store. so you can see from the left johnny paling low and nicole. now as a result, the jewels are characterized by youthful spirit. with the dines drawn from an e collective rankle of sources. a great number and variety of long necklaces were created at this time. this is not surprisingly since the they were 80 shaped to the long lines of the mabs i didn't debris dress. they feature color and large stones. for example, the one that you
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see here has a huge emerald of over 3 hundred carrots. others draw from original sources such as a we have the b bud had a >> one of the pieces was owned by ben webb son which you see here pictured foisted by richard. others soot i can't see were evenly crust with precious giving me gemstones. it was during those years the so-called bully eye. an oval pie. this was he successfully he
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adapted their covered with the bully eyes all over. you find the most active featured on rings, restorations and bracelets. and it continues to be interpreted in different ways nowadays. interestingly most is a was are convertible and worn as a broach as you see here. others can be divided and the different sections were worn separately. sometimes a shorter necklace or as bracelets. now during the 70s many are whim u whimsical. at times they were independent to concepts namely that of
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evaluating common jewels and here you find playing cards that become precious jewels and a here judges a simple card becomes a fantastic pen let in gold and mother of parallel and the can what is the mother of parallel on index and diamonds. on others occasions ice cream cones become elevated to the status of a brochure or a mothering sticking stick maybe made in gold or the hammer imperfect working made of white and a gold or a cigarette case
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modeled as a cigarette box. and bug u bullries answer to annie arrest warrant hauls tin campbell so i happen was a wonderful silver and gold tennis bail canister. among the jewels of the 1970s of the created by the third young and sort of great bully generation one finds the so-called spaniel stars and stripes. now those jewels and object you can see the wonderful alarm clock or table clock quote elements from the american flag. now in her opinion introduced at
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the time of the 18 of the first time bugging bully store of the united states that was opened in 1972 it was not only the first store in the under the circumstances u.s. but of bully abroad since the 1920s. now those hip jewels found favor in particular in the years leadership up to the celebrations of the american bicentennial of the 1976. it was under the third-generation or the third coincide jewels gained momentum. now coin jewels are not a novelty. that is to say when you find a coin as a centerpiece of a jewel. now this jeweler dates back many
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centuries and here you see pictured for example, a late he roman coin jewels you'll see in the british museum that dates to the late 19th century, 1970s that was created by the jewelers family jewelers in he rome. now this is just to show you that coins have long been used in jewelers for many centuries it was really bully that revived them in the 20 sit up. they range in ancient coins with the greek coins that dates to the fourth century b.c. to the
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wonderful broach dating to the 1970s set with a rare american dollar dating to 1926. so the range is extremely broad. possibly one of my favorite is this rather extreme example it is a incredibly large ca is a what it's a hundred and 40 centimeters long and weighs two pound and is set with 15 comes in and they're all british coins. silver british coins with the heads of the heads of state starting with henry the eight and finishing with johnson the third. so it's like a history lesson of british history. it was bought by a very
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extravagance clerk for his wife barney baron richie and it has a italian descendent. here's him and his wife at acting pock. now as this particular one divides into 3 sections. you can wear it as a short necklace as a chokerer or as a bracelet so one jewel goes a long way. it's interesting to see the relationship between jewels and other art forms. and for example here i know that if one looks if one questions why bully coin jewels so
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successful at the time i think they embrace the spirit of the moment and not surprisingly the success of counsel jewels was with the post modern architecture. and interesting both reference the past in a modern structure in a similar way and you can go precious this by comparing this sleek modern brass les let with 3 bronze rosen coins. their famous with you the at&t building by architect phillip johnson in manhattan whereby the skyscraper ends with a reference to a classic greek. so inserting the reference of the past in sleek modern
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sooebts. now the gas setting is something that bully did frequently to mount coins. and here's another wonderful example a fine choker mounted with 3 ancient greek coins dating to the forget century b.c. mounted in this very sleek more than setting. and two both gas is not an invention it was use in the jeweler as far back as the 9 century but bully used it in wrist watches. how to make the to both gas it's a tubular chain which is made
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with no filter at all. here's some ages they're made by hand and you wrap those gold strips have little ridges at the side and they're wrapped around a core. first one is wrapped around with all the little sides facing upwards and the second, the second strip is wrapped around and finally the core is removed and what you're left with is that wonderful flexible chain that's made tubular chain that's made with no solder so it's made with a buff effect and labor
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intensive. another motive that goes back a long way but which was arrived in an interesting fashion by the buggery is the serpent motive. now serpents have long been used in juvenile and here you see a set of 3 radiology bracelets dating to the first century a.d. just to give you an idea of how fashionable they were a wonderful incidental in the getting i didn't museum you can see at the tomb stone and the lady is wearing i believe if we can count them 1, 2, 3, 4 snake bracelets all in one go.
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this give us an idea that snake bracelets are no novelty but burgery reinterpreted this in a successful way. how did they do that buggery combined it with is watch. we find two versions of serpent snake watches. the first a stylized where the dial suggests the head of the serpent. the others a more naturally render. the enamel their gold and e immediately and you can see each scale is e in addition, and it's under the hinged head. often the enamel is famines full
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in color other times it replicates the skin of real snakes. in those are two wonderful examples but in this exhibition we'll see some of the rare bracelet watches. here you see one pictured here is not an enamel it's in coral. so you can imagine how skillful and labor intensive is needs to be produced to have all those the scales individually carved out of coral and it's like a pail pink and it has those beautiful green emerald eyes.
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another rather exceptional versus is gold and platinum and diamond watch. it's particularly ideal to the one this elizabeth taylor was wearing while filming cleopatra in rome. this is elizabeth taylor. and you'll notice is that the body of this one this one is even grander the one that elizabeth taylor it has an extra coil. and finally an exceptional piece another of those wonderful serpent watches and this instance it's gold, diamond platinum and you can notice on the head a very large burmese
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rube i didn't. i'm showing you here how it would be presented in emphasis original case and how you can open the head to reveal the dial as in this case you can see surround by brilliant diamonds >> now incessantly it varies it was when bully was not involved in watch manning making so they were in top movements they vary. those are the ones that you find. and it's really i think wonderful to be able to see for the first time ever those 3 exceptional serpent watches which is really thanks