rosemary ellis thanks very much. >>> coming up next a new taste on old-fashioned southern cooking with a chef from canada. go figure. first this is "today" on nbc. >>> this morning in "today's kitchen" reinventing southern kitchen step by step. the new cookbook is called "a new turn in the south." hugh, good to meet you >> good to see you. >> why did you take on southern american cooking? >> it's where i've lived for a really long time, been there about, opened my first restaurant 12 years ago and longer. >> you've got an accent. i still say out and house but i have a y'all in there, too. weird. >> you have an interesting appetizer. you like to mix things up. >> i love things to be four ingredients long for simple snacking. this is simple, just beautiful grapefruit coming into season now, beautiful marinated white anchovies and a little bit of fresh ground pepper, by fan. the other stuff in the pantry is usually stale if you buy it preground, and olive oil. this is simple. the acidity will match up with the puckeriness of the anchovies. >> a dish you cook with cane vinegar. i've never