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https://archive.org/details/31/6111/6487 74

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CANADA as

VOL1
1974

Sunset at
Point Pelee National Park

Coucher de soleil,
Parc national
dela Pointe Pelée

A. F. Helmsley

Published by Parks Canada under the authority of
the Hon. Jean Chrétien, Pc, MP,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
©Information Canada, Ottawa, 1974

INA Publication No. QS-1241-000-BB-A1
Design: John Ball Graphic Arts Service Ltd.

Conservation Canada is a quarterly publication
Editors: Sheila Crutchlow, Martin Filion
Production: Eric Plummer

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.

Translations of articles in the other official language are
available on request from The Editor, Conservation Canada,
Information Services, Department of Indian and Northern
Affairs, Ottawa, KIA 0H4.

Publié par Parcs Canada avec l’autorisation

de hon. Jean Chrétien, c.p.,

député, ministre des Affaires indiennes et du Nord.
©lInformation Canada, Ottawa, 1974

Publication AIN N° QS-1241-000-BB-A 1
Présentation: John Ball Graphic Arts Service Ltd.

Publication trimestrielle.
Rédaction: Martin Filion, Sheila Crutchlow
Production: Eric Plummer

On peut reproduire les articles en mentionnant
leur provenance.

On peut se procurer des versions anglaises ou frangaises des
articles parus dans ce numéro en s’adressant au Rédacteur,
Conservation Canada, Services de Il’ Information, Ministere des
Affaires indiennes et du Nord, Ottawa, KIA 0OH4.

Indian and

iv

Northern Affairs
Parks Canada

Affaires indiennes
et du Nord

Parcs Canada

Q

NG. de ministre responsable de Parcs Canada
depuis 1968, ce fut toujours un grand plaisir et une
source constante d’inspiration que de m’associer a
tous les Canadiens qui ne cessent de témoigner un
intérét grandissant a l’égard de leur patrimoine
historique et naturel. Grace a cet intérét, nous avons
pu créer 10 nouveaux parcs nationaux, parmi lesquels
se trouvent les premiers des territoires septentrionaux
et du Québec.

Les canaux historiques ont d’autre part été trans-
férés a Parcs Canada et l’on continue d’aménager les
lieux historiques nationaux, d’un océan a l’autre.

Les parcs marins nationaux, les routes et les voies
d’eau historiques nationales nous posent de nouveaux
défis, tout comme Il’aménagement de routes pano-
ramiques et la conservation de sites d’intérét national.

Les Canadiens veulent en connaitre davantage au
sujet de leur pays et de leur histoire. Conservation
Canada, une publication trimestrielle, vise précisé-
ment a combler ce désir. La revue entraine cependant
ses lecteurs “‘dans les coulisses’’. Par leurs articles et
leurs photographies, vous ferez la connaissance des
membres du personnel de Parcs Canada.

Nous voulons que les citoyens canadiens puissent
apprendre ce qui se fait, pour eux et grace a eux,
dans le domaine de la préservation, de la conserva-
tion et de la mise en valeur du patrimoine du Canada,
héritage récent peut-étre, mais inestimable toutefois.

A. Minister responsible for Parks Canada since
1968 it has been a great source of pleasure and in-
spiration for me to be part of the increased interest
and involvement of Canadians in their natural and
human heritage. Because of this commitment on the
part of so many, we have been able to establish 10
new National Parks, including the first National
Parks in Québec and in the northern territories.
Canada’s historic canals have been transferred to
Parks Canada and exciting work 1s underway on
National Historic Sites from coast to coast. There
are also new challenges in National Historic Land
and Water Routes, National Marine Parks, Nationa!
Landmarks and Parkways.

Clearly, it is the desire of Canadians to know more
about their land and their history. Conservation
Canada is dedicated to that principle but with a
difference. This quarterly publication takes its reader-
ship ‘“‘behind the scenes” to meet the people who are
Parks Canada. All articles and illustrations are by
staff members. We would like the people of Canada
to know what is being done on their behalf and with
their support to conserve, preserve and enhance our
rather young but priceless Canadian heritage.

New Ch fe?

Introducing / Rencontres: A.T. Davidson

John Olson 3

Conserving Historical Resources in Canada

John Rick 4

Mettons le cap sur les Rocheuses

Jean La Boissiére 8

Plus

12

Empire Builder at Work and War

Malcolm McLeod 16

Ladies of the Locks

Doug Nixon 20

Les drapeaux en Nouvelle-France

René Chartrand 24

Et Cetera

28

“Basically, ’'m a pragmatist,”’ said the Assistant
Deputy Minister as he sat behind his desk on the
15th floor of Ottawa’s Centennial Towers.

Alexander T. Davidson had headed the conserva-
tion program of Indian and Northern Affairs for less
than a month when he was interviewed early this year.

In his new position, he is responsible for the direc-
tion of National Parks, National Historic Parks and
Sites, Historic Canals and Byways and Special Places.

Al Davidson takes a very practical approach to his
new duties.

“Tm suspicious of philosophies that say if you be-
lieve this, these are the things you must do.”

He continued, ““You have to determine what’s the
sensible thing to do... what’s workable.

“It’s pretty early to say if there will be any major
changes in the direction Parks Canada is moving’’,
said the 47-year-old native of Thunder Bay, Ontario.

Two areas of concern to the ADM are the town-
sites at Banff and Jasper and the Byways and Special
Places Program.

“We have to resolve some of the townsite problem
one way or another. It’s urgent because it takes up a
great deal of the time of our staff. . . on all levels.
I’m not saying the townsites aren’t important. But
there are other areas of concern we have to deal with.

‘Also there’s the parliamentary committee. We
have to consider their views. They’ve brought out the
point that self-government for residents of these
townsites needs to be developed.

Continued on page 27

Introducing...
Rencontres...

A.T. Davidson

by / par John Olson

“Je suis fondamentalement pragmatique.” C’est ce
que nous a déclaré M. Alexander-T. Davidson, le
sous-ministre adjoint, a son bureau du 15e étage a
Ottawa.

M. Davidson est responsable de la gestion des pares
nationaux, des parcs et des canaux historiques et du
programme “Lieux et parcours privilégiés’’. Il n’oc-
cupe ses fonctions que depuis quelques mois.

Agé de 47 ans et natif de Thunder Bay, Ontario
M. Davidson aborde son travail avec un sens pra-
tique. “Je me méfie des systémes de pensée qui pré-
conisent de faire nécessairement telle action si vous
partagez telle idée. Il faut déterminer, poursuit-il, ce
qui devrait se faire et .. . pourrait se faire.”

Quant a Parcs Canada, “‘il est trop tot pour prédire
des changements importants dans son orientation.”

Le SMA s’intéresse actuellement aux lotissements
urbains de Banff et de Jasper et au programme “‘Lieux
et parcours privilégiés”’.

‘‘Nous devons résoudre le probleme des lotisse-
ments urbains d’une facon ou d’une autre. Une solu:
tion urgente s’impose, car le personnel, a tous les ni-
veaux, y passe la majeure partie de son temps. Je ne
veux point dire que ces lotissements urbains soient
sans importance, mais nous devons nous occuper de
plusieurs autres choses.

‘“‘Nous devons également prendre en considération
les points de vue du comité parlementaire. Les mem-
bres ont souligné qu’une administration autonome
devait étre mise en place pour le bénéfice des rési-
dants de Banff et de Jasper.

“T’autre part, je trouve le programme des lieux et
parcours privilégiés tres intéressant et je voudrais le
voir prendre son essor.

“On a déja fait beaucoup de travail en ce qui con-
cerne ce projet et j’'aimerais qu’on continue a le mettre
en oeuvre. Je crois que c’est un concept plein d’ima-
gination. II reste a le matérialiser. Au cours des deux
ou trois prochains mois, nous aurons une série de
rencontres avec les gouvernements des provinces.”

Suite a la page 27

Conserving Historical
Resources In Canada Bn.

Careful on-site cleaning of pottery shards turned up in the
dig

Les richesses historiques sensibilisent Thomme a son
passé et lorientent vers l'avenir. Tout en déplorant la
destruction de vestiges par V-homme et par la nature,
M. John Rick nous fait connaitre les activités de conser-
vation au Canada et explique les lignes de conduite qui
président au programme national de commémoration.

Historic resources are scarce, often unique, non-
renewable, tangible remains of man’s past activities.
They range from the archaeological evidence of the
peopling of the New World to examples of 20th cen-
tury architecture and technology; from archaeological
and ethnographic specimens, through documents,
objets d’art and antiques, to buildings and large par-
cels of land. The thread common to all these remains
is that they illustrate, in concrete form, man’s past for
the benefit of the present in facing the future.

They are easily destroyed, all too often threatened
and, once gone, lost forever.

“Conservation”? encompasses all those activities
required to understand the significance of these re-
mains, enjoy them in the present and preserve them
for the future.

Implicit in this concept is human activity and in-
tervention. An archaeological specimen, for example,
may be well preserved underground. Yet in that state
it contributes nothing towards human understanding
or enjoyment; excavation, analysis, and display are
necessary before this can be achieved. Thus, the con-
servation of resources also implies their wise exploita-
tion—their use in a fashion which contributes to
human knowledge while preserving the tangible re-
mains for future generations.

Value of the resources

Whether from simple curiosity or from desire to
control his own destiny, man seeks to understand the
universe and his place in it. Since our current con-
dition is clearly the result of all that has gone before,
the historical disciplines constitute a major avenue
towards such an understanding. By seeking to learn
how we have arrived where we are, we hope to under-
stand ourselves better, to avoid repetition of past
mistakes and to profit from experience in order to
cope more ably with the problems of the future.

The importance of understanding and preserving
the past has been recognized, implicitly or explicitly,
by virtually every country in the world. This concern
is manifested in the establishment of archives and
museums, in the commemoration of historic events

Repairing the beadwork on an old Indian jacket

and significant figures, in the preservation of historic
places and objects, and through the enactment of
antiquities legislation.

Although one cannot place a dollar value on the
intellectual, emotional and aesthetic aspects of his-
torical resources, it is clear that the wise use of such
resources generates considerable revenue.

Effects of man

Each year, an unknown portion of Canada’s histor-
ic resources is destroyed by natural causes (erosion,
for example), but this is only a fraction of the de-
struction caused by man himself. Unlike natural re-
sources, historic resources are basically man-made,
and their removal consequently represents the de-
struction by man of his own handiwork. Unlike scenic
or wilderness resources, they derive their cultural
interest and relevance from their status as the crea-
tions of human minds and hands, particularly in the
case of buildings. Age, decay and the natural propen-
sity of society for change, as well as the sheer growth

of human numbers, mean that historic sites are
among the cultural resources most prone to loss.

The construction of dams, reservoirs, highways

and pipe lines often results in the obliteration of
|

archaeological sites. Urban renewal and urban spraw!
take an annual toll of Canada’s surviving old build-
ings; they also destroy or encroach seriously on the
original surroundings that create an historical en-
vironment for the structures. Ancient shipwrecks are
stripped of their contents for amusement or private
gain, sometimes being damaged so extensively that
their identification is impossible.

The tragedy of such loss is, if anything, aggravated
by the fact that the precise magnitude of the de-
struction is not presently known.

Present preservation

In Canada, the responsibility for the protection of
archaeological sites, and of historic sites of provincial
or local significance rests (with certain exceptions)
with the provincial governments. A number of these

Left to right:

Divers at the underwater archaeology project at
Restigouche

Repairing an antique musical instrument

Cleaning a metal artifact with a strong solvent

have enacted protective legislation, while others have
indicated an intention to do so. The provinces also
have programs, varying widely in scope, for the de-
velopment of historic sites of provincial significance
for public education and enjoyment.

At the federal level, the National Museum of Man
works closely with provincial agencies and the univer-
sities in carrying out archaeological surveys and
excavations of prehistoric sites. Such projects are
dictated by both the need to fill gaps in current knowl-
edge and the threat of destruction to sites in certain
areas.

The Museum of Man also preserves in its collection
objects of archaeological, ethnological and aesthetic
significance while the National Museum of Science
and Technology, as its name implies, protects those
artifacts illustrative of scientific and technological
developments in Canada. The Public Archives of
Canada is responsible for the preservation of docu-
ments relating to Canada’s past, while the National
Gallery of Canada is custodian of many of the na-
tion’s art treasures.

Federal responsibility for the acquisition, protec-
tion and development of sites of national historic
significance is vested in the Minister of Indian and
Northern Affairs.

The National Historic Parks Branch of this Depart-
ment maintains sites which have been acquired
specifically because of their importance in Canadian
history and their development potential. National
Historic Sites are designated by the Minister of Indian
and Northern Affairs on the recommendation of the
Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada, an
advisory group of eminent historians and archivists
appointed regionally across Canada. The recommen-
dation of this Board is also taken under consideration
when determining the type and extent of commemo-
ration and preservation to be undertaken.

Since National Historic Sites are preserved for the
benefit of all Canadians, some form of development
is considered essential to permit persons of all age
groups, educational backgrounds, etc., to appreciate
the nature and significance of these historic places.
The necessary development may take such forms as
an on-site interpretation centre containing graphic
exhibits and artifacts, interpretation signs, restora-
tion and period refurnishing (in the case of standing
structures), or stabilization of archaeological remains.

The objective of any form of development must be to
preserve as much as possible of the original fabric.

Guidelines for the historical commemoration

program
The national historical commemoration program
is based on four guidelines:

1. It must encompass the principal themes of Cana-
dian history. A satisfactory thematic balance will
also contribute to an appropriate geographic
spread.

2. The selection of each National Historic Park or
Site must be based on clear criteria.

3. The development of each historic site must be
based on thorough archaeological, architectural,
artifactual and historical research. The goal must
be the highest possible degree of authenticity and
integrity.

4. The development of individual historic sites
should be imaginative and of the highest quality.
They must be stabilized (or restored or reconstruct-
ed as the case may be), and furnished where
feasible and appropriate. Above all, there must be
a vivid, imaginative interpretation to bring them
to life to convey as much of the texture of the
time as possible.

We must try to touch the imaginations of our
visitors—to help them recreate in their minds the
way of life, its quality, its privations and its colour as
it was for our forebears. If we succeed, history will
never be dull.

To achieve these objectives, current, well-conceived
policies must guide the development of the system of
National Historic Parks and Sites.

Conclusion

Good progress has already been made in the field of
national historical commemoration. As of January
1974 there were 48 National Historic Parks and major
Historic Sites across Canada, many of which are still
under development; 35 more are in the early stages of
development or about to be developed; and negotia-
tions are under way for a further seven. An additional
18 sites have been, or are being, restored in co-
operation with provincial and municipal governments
and with local historical societies, chambers of com-
merce, and other interested groups. There are more
than 600 plaques and monuments across the country
commemorating persons, places or events of national
significance. However, much remains to be done,
both in the creation and development of new parks
and sites and in the completion of existing parks and

Say MERE maser wages

sites, to produce a well-balanced high-quality pro-
gram of historic preservation and commemoration
worthy of Canada’s history.

It should be recognized that no significant portion
of any country’s historic heritage can be saved if its
citizens do not care enough to become involved.
Through the Canadian Inventory of Historic Build-
ing program, private groups and individuals are
becoming involved, on a volunteer basis, in the re-
cording of Canada’s architectural history. Further,
the establishment of Heritage Canada has given
Canadians everywhere, an opportunity to participate
actively in the conservation of our country’s historic,
architectural and natural heritage. Historic sites,
monuments and museums operated by all levels of
government and by private concerns, seek the same
end—the stimulation of an awareness of national
identity, of a shared culture, and the desire to pre-
serve and understand that which has made us what
we are.

en prea cr een oe NR Fa ee
Mr. Rick is Chief of the Research Division, National His-
toric Parks and Sites Branch, Parks Canada.

Reprinted from Conservation in Canada: A Prospectus,
edited by J.S. Maini and A. Carlisle; Canadian Forestry
Service, Information Canada, 1974

ettons le cap

sur les “Kocheuses

PAR JEAN LA BOISSIERE

Information Officer, Jean La Boissiére was, for four
years, Travel Editor for La Presse. Last summer he
travelled, as a tourist, through the National Parks of
the Rockies. Besides describing the incredible beauty of
the parks, he gives information on accommodations
and points of interest which will be of value to anyone
contemplating a trip to this spectacular part of Canada.

Le théatre est grandiose ...la mise en scene im-
muable...les acteurs éternellement jeunes... le
spectacle permanent. Au cours de la belle saison,
Penchantement visuel est de dix-huit heures par jour!

Lendroit? Les parcs nationaux des Rocheuses
canadiennes, a la mi-juillet. On chercherait en vain,
partout ailleurs au monde, autant de blancheur aveu-
glante, autant de verdure chatoyante, autant de viva-
cité dans les coloris.

Le décor est aussi féerique en hauteur qu’en pro-
fondeur; un coup d’oeil suffit pour passer de l’abime
des canyons aux sommets crénelés des montagnes.
A Vhorizontale, le paysage prend tant6t forme de
ruisseau, de riviere, de lac, tantdt de glacier, de forét,
de prairie ou de vallée, qui se succédent en une suite
de fondus enchainés des mieux réussis.

La faune et la flore vivent dans un habitat privi-
légié et a l’altitude qui leur convient. Par exemple, la
chévre de montagne et la marmotte habitent les ré-
gions élevées; le moufion et le wapiti préférent les
régions basses, tandis que l’orignal, le castor et le rat
musqué vivent au fond des vallées.

Alors que les coniféres abondent au creux des
vallées, les pentes intermédiaires sont peuplées de
pins et d’épinettes. Plus laltitude est élevée, plus la
végétation se raréfie, de sorte qu’au-dela de 7,000
pieds, c’est-a-dire a la limite de la zone arborescente,
le paysage alpin ressemble étrangement a certaines
régions de |’Arctique.

Du cadre champétre aux solitudes glaciaires, il n’y
a qu’un pas ou, si vous préférez, qu'un saut. La
meilleure fagon d’accéder aux sommets est, a coup

stir, la marche a pied. Dans bien des cas, cependant,
le temps requis et l’endurance physique ne permet-
tront pas aux visiteurs de se livrer a pareil exercice.

Il existe, dans les deux principaux parcs des Ro-
cheuses, a Jasper et 4 Banff, un moyen beaucoup plus
rapide de franchir les distances verticales. II s’agit du
téléphérique qui peut transporter une trentaine de
personnes debout, comme celui de Jasper, ou de la
télécabine suspendue au flanc du Mont Sulphur et
dans laquelle quatre personnes assises confortable-
ment peuvent admirer Banff et ses environs.

Les parcs des Rocheuses

Sept parcs nationaux sont situés dans les Ro-
cheuses: les parcs Jasper, Banff et des lacs Waterton,
en Alberta, et les parcs Yoho, Glacier, Kootenay
et du mont Revelstoke, en Colombie-Britannique.
Une exploration complete de tous ces parcs deman-
derait des mois, si lon tient compte du nombre de
sentiers qui les traversent et du temps nécessaire pour
se rendre d’un point a un autre.

II faut donc se résigner a n’en voir qu’une partie,
au cours d’un premier voyage, quitte a découvrir les
autres plus tard. De toute fagon, si vous y allez une
fois, vous aurez trés certainement le gotit d’y retour-
ner un jour ou l’autre.

Edmonton et Calgary sont des points de départ et
darrivée a considérer. Une route nord-sud, trés
directe, relie les deux villes, mais la route panora-
mique qui va d’Edmonton a Calgary passe au coeur
des Rocheuses et dans les deux plus grands pares,
Jasper et Banff.

Le glacier Victoria et le lac Louise

Une route capricieuse mais pittoresque

Deux autres parcs nationaux, Yoho et Kootenay,
sont situés a proximité, constituant ainsi des desti-
nations idéales pour des excursions d’une journée
dans la province voisine.

Voila done un itinéraire qui réunit a la fois des
éléments assez intéressants pour occuper une semaine
de loisirs et des déplacements peu nombreux qui
représentent une économie appréciable de temps.
Ajoutons a cela que les haltes sont nombreuses, en

RNY Gh aay
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iit KE

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Un paysage typique des Rocheuses canadiennes

Des affiches bilingues et rustiques

cours de route, ce qui réduit considérablement la
fatigue du voyage.

N’oubliez surtout pas, lors d’une promenade a
pied, que l’altitude a laquelle vous vous trouverez a
certains moments, jouera un role prédominant sur
votre comportement physique. Plus vous monterez,
plus l’oxygéne sera rare et plus vous ralentirez le pas,
sinon vous découvrirez trés vite que l’expression bien
connue ‘“‘des paysages 4 vous couper le souffle” peut

9

10

étre employée aussi bien au sens propre qu’au figure.

A eux seuls, les parcs Jasper, Banff, Yoho et
Kootenay ont une superficie trois fois supérieure a
celle de I’Ile-du-Prince-Edouard. En effet, ces quatre
parcs nationaux couvrent plus de 7,800 milles carrés
de territoire, alors que la plus petite province du
Canada n’a qu’une superficie de 2,184 milles carrés.

De méme que nous aurions tort de ne passer que
24 heures dans la province qu’on qualifie de ““berceau
de la nation canadienne’, n’aurions-nous pas la
moindre idée des parcs nationaux en ne faisant
qu’entrer et sortir de ces endroits privilégiés.

Les parcs ont été créés et aménagés pour qu’on
puisse y vivre en union tres étroite avec la nature.
Ce ne sont pas tellement les habitudes de vie qui
changent, c’est plutdt le cadre des activités quoti-
diennes qui differe. Une entrec6te sur charbon de bois
naura peut-étre pas plus de saveur dans un parc
national que dans la cour arri¢re de votre maison.
Vous admettrez, toutefois, qu’il est beaucoup plus
agréable de cuisiner dans le décor d’un parc des
Rocheuses canadiennes qu’au fond d’un jardin de
ville, ou bruits et pollution ne parviennent pas a faire
oublier le milieu urbain dans lequel nous vivons a
peu pres tous.

Qw importe son nom, il égayait notre réveil

Fig

Le lac Emerald

Services et accueil

Les parcs nationaux de |’Ouest canadien offrent
un grand nombre d’emplacements de camping et de
caravaning aux adeptes du nomadisme moderne,
sans compter bon nombre d’endroits favorisant le
voyageur solitaire qui, sac au dos la plupart du temps,
n’exige que le minimum de commodités.

Les touristes en général trouveront un gite a portée
de leurs bourses, s’ils ont la bonne fortune d’arriver
assez tot aux différents établissements hoteliers et,
surtout, s’ils ont pris Vinitiative, avant le départ, de
réserver leurs chambres aux endroits stratégiques
comme Jasper et Banff par exemple.

Il est fort possible qu’au cours de la période d’af-
fluence—du 15 juin au [5 aotiit—vous connaissiez
certaines difficultés d’hébergement. Ne vous affolez
pas et contactez immédiatement le bureau d’admi-
nistration du parc ou vous vous trouvez. Les préposés
a l’accueil aux visiteurs de Parcs Canada vous met-
tront sur la bonne voie.

Au sujet de l’accueil aux visiteurs, ouvrons ici une
parenthése a intention des francophones: tous les
parcs nationaux du Canada, sans exception, pos-
sedent un personnel bilingue capable de servir le
public dans les deux langues officielles. De plus, la
signalisation routiere, les tableaux d’interprétation
ainsi que les affiches, les panneaux indicateurs et les
écriteaux sont bilingues. Voila quelques précisions
qui vous encourageront sirement a vous adresser en
francais, chaque fois que vous en aurez l’occasion.

Ces remarques s’appliquent également lorsqu’il
s’agit de visites guidées en des lieux particuli¢rement
intéressants—canyons, glaciers, cols, etc.—d’excur-
sions dans les sentiers d’interprétation de la nature,
de présentations de films et de diapositives. De plus,
toutes les publications de Parcs Canada sont bilingues

et sont disponibles aux postes d’entrée ainsi qu’aux
centres d'information des 28 parcs nationaux du
Canada.

En effet, chaque province canadienne ainsi que les
territoires, celui du Yukon et du Nord-Ouest, sont
dotés de parcs nationaux. Le parc le plus au nord
estaccluipde wie Batiin; Je pare de la Pointe Pelée
est situé a l’endroit le plus méridional du pays, a
Pextrémité sud-est de |’Ontario.

Le parc le plus a lest, Terra Nova, est baigné par
les eaux de l’Atlantique, alors que le parc national
Pacific Rim, situé sur la céte ouest de Il’Ile Vancouver,
offre une vue imprenable sur |’océan Pacifique.

Les parcs nationaux sont “‘dédiés au peuple cana-
dien pour son bénéfice, son instruction et sa jouis-
sance”’, comme le précise la Loi adoptée en 1930, et
ils doivent étre “‘entretenus et utilisés de maniére
qu’ils restent intacts pour la jouissance des généra-
tions futures”’.

Nous vous engageons a méditer sur ce theme,
quand vous visiterez un parc national. Si chaque
visiteur cueillait une fleur sauvage ou gravait ses

Une photo? D’accord, mais faites vite!

initiales sur l’écorce d’un arbre, que resterait-il des
beautés naturelles que nous avons le devoir de Iéguer
aux générations qui nous succéderont? Posons plutét
des gestes concrets en faveur de la conservation de
nos parcs nationaux actuels et encourageons |’amé-
nagement de nouveaux parcs qui ajouteront a l’héri-
tage culturel que nous possédons déja.

A la mi-juillet, sur la langue du glacier Columbia

Jean La Boissiére, Responsable de la Promotion francaise,
était auparavant chef des pages touristiques au journal La
Presse de Montréal. Il est membre de la Society of Ameri-
can Travel Writers depuis 1966, organisme dont il fut
président du chapitre canadien en 1971,

I]

Un bruit de soie plus lisse que le vent
Passage de la lumiére sur un paysage d’ eau.
ANNE HEBERT :

16

The portrait of Daniel-Marie Liénard de Beaujeu which
hangs in the basement of the “‘make-believe church

Empire Builder

At Work and War

Daniel-Marie Liénard de Beaujeu,

1711-1755

by Malcolm McLeod

L’auteur souligne le réle du lieutenant de Beaujeu dans
la campagne militaire de 1746 pour la reconquéte de
[Acadie et nous fait mieux connaitre ce personnage
dont la carriére militaire s échelonne de son enrélement
dans la Marine frangaise dés son adolescence jusqu’ au
commandement d’un fort de ’ Ohio et sa mort en 1755.
Le musée du parc national de Grand-Pré rappelle sa
mémoire.

In the basement of the museum building at Grand
Pré National Historic Park, a watercolour portrait of
Daniel-Marie Liénard de Beaujeu shows a man in
typical aristocrat’s rig of the mid-1I8th century—lots
of frills, white powdered curls, a bunch of white lace
at his throat. He seems a pastel man, soft and delicate
looking. No impression could be further from the
truth.

A life and a death

Beaujeu was a weathered fighter and voyageur and,
by dint of brawn and personality as well as by ap-
pointment, a leader of men of the most rough-and-
tumble sort. Born in Montreal in 1711, he joined the
Marine troops stationed in the French colony of
Canada as an officer cadet while still a teenager. He
rose to the rank of captain before being killed in
action in July 1755. It was a very famous action.
Newly-named commandant of Fort Duquesne in
disputed Ohio country, Beaujeu led a 900-man sortie
out to ambush a 2000-strong vanguard of the in-
vading Anglo-American force. He directed the open-
ing manoeuvres of a confused engagement when the
two forces met unexpectedly in the forest, but was cut
down by British grapeshot before the battlescale had
begun to tip to one side or the other. The French
squad—two-thirds of them Indian allies—gradually
gained the upper hand by superior tactics. Before
nightfall half the British unit had been wiped out.
Beaujeu was buried where Pittsburgh now smokes.

What on earth is the likeness of this Québécois

Ohio hero doing in the basement of a make-believe
church at Grand Pré, Nova Scotia?

The “make-believe church” at Grand Pré National Historic Park

Campaign in the East, 1746-1747

In June 1746 when Lieutenant Beaujeu was 35
years old, he was one of 20 officers named to lead an
army of 700 Canadians from Québec into Acadia.

After an American force had captured Louisbourg
the previous year, the French government had de-
cided on a big effort to retake the Cape Breton
fortress and perhaps seize Annapolis as well. A size-
able fleet under Duc D’Anville was due to arrive in
the harbour of Chibouctou (now Halifax). The colony
of Canada raised and dispatched its contingent, of
which Beaujeu was part, to join the European French-
men in the struggle. The Canadian troops established
their base at Beaubassin (near Amherst, Nova
Scotia). As always in military matters the most vital,

and the scarcest, item was information. The com-
manding officer, Captain Claude-Roche de Ramezay,
sent scouts and spies fanning out in all directions: to
Prince Edward Island, to count the enemy there; to
Cape Breton for a report on Louisbourg; to Schuben-
acadie to get in touch with Abbé Le Loutre and his
Micmac retainers; to the Annapolis Valley to check
British dispositions and Acadian attitudes; to Halifax
to learn if the fleet from France had arrived. In
October, having learnt that D’Anville’s fleet had been
wrecked by storms and sickness, the Canadian force
attacked Annapolis without him. They failed, and by
Christmas had withdrawn to Beaubassin. Shivering
in winter quarters, they were faced by the likelihood
that six months of fatigues and feints had earned
them nothing.

17

18

An officer of the French troops which garrisoned Canada
(Compagnies franches de la Marine), circa 1750 (Water-
colour by Eugene Leliépvre)

Early in January news arrived that about 500 New
England troops had occupied Grand Pré with the
intention of erecting a permanent fortification there
in the spring. This was a strategic escalation of the
struggle, similar to the Canadians’ establishing them-
selves at Beaubassin, but it was not a move Ramezay
and his men were willing to accept lightly. That same
day they decided to attack the Americans at Grand
Pré. Two hundred and fifty men began a long, cold
march on January 21 carrying with them most of what
they would need in the way of food. When they began
to run out they began to do without.

By regular routine, a squad of 20 men with the
sturdiest snowshoes started each day’s march well in
advance of the others, to pack down the trail and
make the movement of the main force that much
swifter. As they progressed, their ranks swelled by
half a hundred, as Catholic Micmacs and venture-
some young Acadian men joined up. They were also
three weeks getting from Beaubassin to their target—
marching, eating and sleeping out-of-doors in tem-
peratures that fluctuated between 40 above and 10
below zero. With bleary eyes, and the imprint of

exhaustion and exposure, too filthy to be smelled
comfortably at close range, and with icicles in over-
grown beards, they stumbled into Pipiguit (Windsor)
at dusk on February 9—a worn but hardy band, and
dangerous!

From the people of Pipiguit they learned the Amer-
icans had taken over 24 of the villagers’ homes for
their quarters, and, in each of these barracks, were
keeping watch day and night. Captain Louis Coulon
de Villiers, commanding the strike force, decided to
launch a simultaneous surprise attack against ten of
these posts. The most detailed account of the attack is
in Beaujeu’s journal:

“11 February 1747—At 3 a.m. the commandant
gave the order to set out. After assuring us that he
knew well the way to the stone guard house we were
supposed to attack, M. Coulon’s guide led us instead
to the house which was the target of M. de Lotbi-
niére’s group .. .. A sentry who spotted us cried
‘Who goes there?’ .. . . We saw the watch-keeper
come at once to the door of the house. But the night
was so dark, and we were hugging the ground so
closely with our bellies, silent as thieves, that although
we were within 30 paces, the enemy considered it to
have been a false alarm and went back inside
again .... The sentry cried ‘To arms!’ and the whole
guard gave us a volley... . I was intent on silencing
that sentry, and indeed he was the first man I killed.
In less than ten minutes we took the guard house. All
our people did marvels there: 21 corpses and three
prisoners were proof of the detachment’s courage ....
To this point, we were in perfect ignorance of how
the other detachments were making out. All around
we could hear terrific musket fire. In every direction
we could see men in movement without being able to
distinguish if they were our forces or the enemy. No
guides to lead us. We had almost all lost our snow-
shoes and the amount of snow prevented us from
moving smartly. In this extremity, the officers sug-
gested we should proceed to the old shed where the
English had boats stored .... We arrived in time to
share the pleasure of seizing the two vessels in which
the English had stored the lumber all cut for two
redoubts and a good proportion of their muni-
Honss: . I sent M. Marin to go search out the
whereabouts of M. le Chevalier de la Corne—at that
time commandant of the force—and ask for orders
on what to do next.

“Returning two hours later, Marin informed us
that the English had withdrawn to the stone guard
house outfitted with artillery—the one which M.
Coulon had been scheduled to strike. M. le Chevalier
de la Corne was keeping them under attack from a
house he had seized. He had been joined by the
Villemonde, Repentigny, Gaspé and Bailleul detach-
ments, and all these squads had taken the targets
assigned to them.”

So went the fighting, and Beaujeu’s part in it, in the
famous battle of Grand Pré. The next day, the Amer-
icans surrendered and were permitted to withdraw
to Annapolis. The defeated column that emerged
from the stone house on February 14 was 350
strong; 125 Americans had been killed, and 50 taken
prisoner. On the French side, 300 men had made the
assault, of whom seven were killed and 15 wounded.
The Canadians returned to their headquarters at
Beaubassin, and as the wording on the National
Historic Sites plaque has it, “‘the British resumed
their uneasy possession of mainland Nova Scotia’.
Superb intelligence, which had enabled the Canadian
striking force to move so far and so openly across the
country, and still arrive unreported beneath the
windowsills of sleeping, unwary troops, no doubt
contributed to Anglo-American distrust of the Aca-
dians—distrust which culminated eight years later in
their wholesale forced removal from the country.

An empire in the making

We are left with the same question we started with.
Why is a faded pastel portrait of Beaujeu among the
thousand-and-one items in the inventory of Grand Pré
National Historic Park?

One plausible reason is that Beaujeu has signifi-
cance for Grand Pré as one of the leading fighters
from another colony who came down east to help
protect humble Acadians from the oppression of the
Anglo-American soldiers and governors whom his-
tory had parachuted down on top of them. Plausible
but insufficient. There is no particular indication that
Beaujeu’s unit came to help the Acadians. Indeed, by
heightening tensions in the province, the Canadians
may very well have hastened the decision to deport
the Acadians—some help!

A second way to see the significance of Beaujeu’s
career is to consider him an actor caught up ina great
dramatic struggle for imperial possessions between
rival European peoples, the British and the French.

Officer’s pistol, French navy issue, circa 1750 (Private
Collection)

This is fine as far as it goes, but it does not go far
enough. French-British rivalry for control of North
America now appears as a passing phase in the con-
tinent’s history. Records and remembrance of that
rivalry have little relevance to Canadians in the
1970’s, now that France and Britain have both
become foreign countries more or less like the others.

A third way of understanding the events of Beau-
jeu’s career is the most meaningful. When Europeans
first started coming here in large numbers, two early
centres of population and influence developed—the
Boston-New York axis and the Saint Lawrence val-
ley. These two communities became rivals for control
of the rest of the continent. What Beaujeu and his
cohorts were doing in Nova Scotia and in the Ohio
valley was attempting to attach these fringe lands to
the St. Lawrence valley, rather than let them enter
the enemy’s sphere of influence.

During the half-century from 1710 to 1760, when
New Englanders and New Yorkers conquered the
colonies of Acadia and Canada with help from
Britain, it seemed that all the continent north of
Mexico would form one political bloc. But the Amer-
ican Revolution re-established the old split. The
traditional north-south rivalry has continued to our
own times. A hundred years ago, Confederation
seemed to confirm that central Canada has a stronger
pull upon the Maritimes than New England did.
Now, military and political expressions of United
States attraction are muted, while the degree of Amer-
ican influence over our culture and industries is a
major Canadian concern.

Up to the present time then, the tendency towards
widespread influence and interference radiating from
central Canada—for which Beaujeu fought and
died—has succeeded at least as well as could be ex-
pected. In the weary soldier tramping through the
Maritimes on snowshoes, we can recognize a repre-
sentative of powerful historic forces which have
pushed together and kept together a dozen different
communities to form this northern empire we call
Canada. Grand Pré 1747 and Ohio 1755 were two of
the occasions when that empire-building tendency
met in violent collision with the ambitions of our
neighbours. Fostering such aims and apprehensions,
the 18th century canadien seems a very contemporary
figure.

a as a a
When he wrote this article, Mr. McLeod was Historic
Interpretive Officer, Atlantic Region, Parks Canada. He is
presently on staff at the Nova Scotia Teacher's College at
Truro.

19

20

Karen Bouessa (left) and Patti Fund—
ladies of the locks

by Doug Nixon
photos by Michel Bouchard

Dans le cadre d’un travail saisonnier, deux Jeunes
filles ont participé aux taches liées a lentretien et a
Péclusage sur le canal Rideau. Voici leurs impressions.

This is the story of two women who worked as
lockmistresses on the Rideau Canal last summer.
They were a trifle nervous at first, but that was to be
expected. After all, the job description did mention
that, among other things, “‘the successful applicant
must be capable of heavy manual labour’.

But they worked hard, and within a short time
their nervousness disappeared. The newness of it
also passed, tucked safely away behind several sets
of blisters and a burgeoning set of biceps. In the
words of one of their mates, a veteran canal worker,
“They were doin’ just fine.”

Then one day nearly two months later, a news-
paperman from nearby Elgin happened along. He

we

spotted Patti working and started asking a lot of
questions.

Before long, pictures of Patti and Karen appeared
in the Kingston Whig-Standard, the Ottawa Journal
and the Toronto Globe and Mail.

Then, as if that wasn’t enough, a mobile film crew
from the CBC in Toronto appeared on the scene. An
interview was staged with the women, setting off a
further flurry of activity.

Such were the events leading to the writing of this
article. Upon meeting the women, no Betty Friedans
or Kate Millets could be found lurking within either;
nor were there any burning desires to advance the
cause of women’s rights. They were just two young
women, 1973-style, whose only comment on the whole
thing was, “‘What’s all the fuss?”

Pleasure boats wait in the sunlight while water, frothing at
the gate, begins to fill the lock

atti Fund and Karen Bouessa are two very
likeable women who have lived most of their lives in
Smiths Falls, Ontario. You could expect to find
thousands like them wherever you went in Canada,
full of youthful exuberance and tremendously aware
of what’s going on around them.

A friend of both girls, Melanie McNamee, works
at the Canada Student Manpower Centre. Melanie,
a proclaimed feminist, this summer, as with the last,
tried to get females, as well as males, to apply for
jobs on the Rideau Canal.

Her previous year’s effort had met with failure.
Two girls, whom she had managed to get interested
in her words, ‘‘chickened out, at the last minute’’.
The work had sounded too hard.

So this year, when she resumed her summer job,
Ms. McNamee contacted the Rideau Canal’s south-
ern division Superintendent, Carl Peel. He informed
her that yes, he would again be accepting applications
from both men and women wishing to obtain jobs on
the lock stations within his jurisdiction.

Melanie then phoned Patti and told her of the
openings. Patti, who had worked for the past five

The blue wharf at the entrance to Davis Lock

21

summers in her mother’s photography studio, was
interested. The change was appealing and she liked
working outdoors. She smiled broadly when told of
the $3.57 per hour, three-and-a-half-day, 36-hour
work week. She was planning to study journalism at
Conestoga College in the fall and felt that she “‘could
definitely use the extra money”’.

Next, Melanie phoned Karen, who had a summer
job working in a local factory which manufactured

Karen prepares to operate winch

Doug Nixon, author of this story, chuckles over his discovery
of the skull and cross-bones sign in South Crosby Township

metal tool boxes and steel drawers. While Karen
was definitely not enamoured with her present job, she
was a little hesitant regarding her friend’s suggestion.

Melanie pressured her, ““Look Karen, Pattiis going
to apply, so why not you, too?” That was all Karen
needed. She said “okay”, and within a few days
interviews were arranged with Mr. Peel.

This turned out to be an experience in itself.
According to the girls, ““Mr. Peel really made us
sweat.” First, he mentioned how the job would entail
a great deal of working with the public. This is
something both like and do very well, so they were
happy. But he set them to worrying when he em-
phasized that the successful applicant must be
reasonably strong.

Statements like that, and others referring to
“carrying your own weight”, led to Karen’s decision
that “‘I was just going to do it, and that’s all’’.

A few days later, she wasn’t so sure. The day
before she was to begin work, her father drove her to
Lock Station #17, ‘“‘The Narrows’. While he was
talking with the lockmaster, one of the fellows who
worked there, approached Karen and mumbled,
“You know, this is a very busy lock.”

“The Narrows” is a single-lock station, one of
many on the 141-year old Rideau Canal. Located in
North Crosby Township, some 20 miles southwest
of Smiths Falls, it squats on the narrow strip of land
which separates Big Rideau and Upper Rideau lakes.
In 1972, this lock station alone recorded 3,646
lockage operations.

Meanwhile, Patti was all set to start work at Jones
Falls, Lock Station #21, about 15 miles down the
canal system. This station contains three locks in-
flight, a separate lock, and some of the heavier and
harder-to-operate equipment in the system. Keen as
she was, it proved a little too strenuous for Patti, and
she was later transferred to Davis Lock.

Both girls took an immediate interest in their work.
Neither knew a thing about canals and locks before
they started, though both had lived most of their
lives in Smiths Falls. This community of approxi-
mately 10,000, some 50 miles southwest of Ottawa,
straddles the Rideau waterway, and has three
separate lock stations and six locks within its
bounds.

In a matter of days, new words, and old ones with
new meanings, began to sneak into their vocabulary.
Expressions like ‘‘the crab’, ‘‘sluices’’, and ‘‘the blue
wharf” are all part of the lockmaster’s lexicon and
now these two young girls could be heard slinging
them around with the greatest of ease.

A crab is a winch or set of gears. On the canals, it is
used to open massive lock gates weighing as much as
six tons, and as well to operate other heavy equip-
ment.

A sluice is, in essence, a valve. When opened, it
allows the free flow of water to a lower level. These
sluices permit the emptying and filling of the lock
chamber, and thus the raising and lowering of boats.

The blue wharf is simply a long wharf with one side
painted blue. Every lock has two, one at each end,
and they are the designated queuing areas for boats
waiting to enter the locks.

It would be stretching things a little too far to say
the girls fell in love with their work, but they were
content with their new jobs. They enjoyed Opening
and closing the big lock gates, sluicing hundreds
of thousands of cubic feet of water during each
lockage, operating the steel swing-bridge (the Nar-
rows), meeting boaters from all over the provinces of
Ontario and Québec, and others from New York
State, Pennsylvania and Ohio, and even mowing the
lawns.

The key to this whole story is Patti and Karen’s
serendipity. For most of their lives, they had been
walking past, driving over and swimming near a
Canal.

Oh, they were both well aware of their hometown’s
canal, but not its Canal. The former just existed—
more as a bit of hometown clutter than anything else.

But the latter is alive. Its long black crab-chains
rattle along over the cast-iron moldings of the lock
winches. As workers winch open the sluices, great
balloons of white water froth to the surface of the
lock, buffeting some of the smaller boats against the
algae-green walls.

Never had the girls noticed such things or, better
put, never had they taken the time to notice. But
now, as they finished their 32-mile drive home from
work, they'd glance purposely at the blue wharf, at
the entrance to the east-bound section of the town’s
most westerly lock station.

Further on, as they crossed the Abbott Street
bridge, they would gaze knowingly up and down the
locks, scanning the canal area for familiar activity.
Occasionally, on their days off, the girls would walk
over to Old Slys, the most easterly lockstation at
Smiths Falls, and talk shop with the summer students.

Probably the best example of their enthusiasm can
be found in Patti’s recounting of a little ritual which
happened every day. The girls drove to and from
work together and when Patti returned each evening
to the Narrows to pick up Karen, before anything
else they'd bubble out, “‘“Well, how many d’ya have
COGaAVes. 2777

The girls became keenly interested in the activities
along the whole canal system. They developed a
sense of ‘“‘“community” with the 47 or so locks which
are sprinkled along the Rideau and Cataraqui River
systems, from Ottawa to Kingston.

As well, they developed camaraderie with work-
mates, like Roger Gallerneault, the lockmaster at
Davis Lock.

‘“He’s a good and fair person to work for,” Patti
emphasizes. It is also obvious that she was impressed
with his gardening. Roger had planted flowers near
the locks and all about the surrounding property.

Davis Lock is hidden away in a secluded section of
South Crosby Township, 33 miles north of Kingston,
near Elgin, Ontario. Its isolation is jokingly accen-
tuated by a hand-painted sign, nailed to a big oak
tree, alongside the gravel approach road. The sign
declares the area to be the Republic of the Hills and
all entry is barred. A skull and cross-bones beneath,
emphasizes the point.

The Davis Lock station is surrounded by a mixed
forest of intense greens and by well-manicured lawns.
The picture is beautifully completed by the reds,
whites and purples of Mr. Gallerneault’s salvias and
petunias.

Will Karen and Patti miss it? Yes, of course!

Karen has proven something to herself—she can
still do anything, if she puts her mind to it.

And Patti, well, she loves the outdoors, so much so
that when we arrived she was fretting about her latest
pet, a small garter snake. Things were relatively quiet
and she had laid him out on the top of one of the
lock gates hoping he would soak up some of the hot
August sun. But he had slithered one too many
slithers and had fallen headlong, or maybe it was
tail-long, into the canal.

Will they be back again next year?

You bet!

‘““We’re spoiled now’, laughed Patti, referring to
the excellent working conditions and that “‘man-
sized”’ wage.

As far as the two are concerned, there’s nothing
special about having women working on the canals.
‘“‘What’s so spectacular about it?” they demand in
one voice.

They’re right, of course. What is special about this
particular situation is that two very warm and ami-
able young people have been party to a rewarding
experience. They have learned a lot of new things
about a lot of old things and a little bit more about
themselves.

Messrs. Nixon and Bouchard are Information Officers with
Indian and Northern Affairs.

Zo

Pavillon et flamme a croix d’un navire de
commerce. Détail dune illustration de
Champlain (A.P.C.)

Les drapeaux
en

Nouvelle~France

PAR RENE CHARTRAND

Military curator, René Chartrand, traces the history of
the French flags from the middle ages to their use and
evolution during the French Régime in Canada 1534-
1760.

Le drapeau bleu, blanc, rouge représente aujour-
d@hui la France partout au monde. Toutefois, ce n’est
qu’en 1790 qu’il fut adopté comme drapeau national,
longtemps aprés que les derniers pavillons francais
eurent cessé de flotter au Canada.

Quel aspect avaient ces pavillons? Voila un problé-
me complexe car la France d’Ancien Régime ne
possedait pas de drapeau national et I’armée, les
vaisseaux du Roi, la marine marchande, la marine des
galeres en Méditerranée, les villes maritimes et bien
str le Roi lui-méme, arboraient des drapeaux aussi
nombreux que divers. Sans espérer vider la question,
nous allons tenter d’en éclaircir certains aspects a
l’aide de quelques documents d’époque.

Le Moyen Age

Au Moyen Age, la banniére bleue fleurdelisée était
l’enseigne du Roi et du royaume de France. Toutefois,
a la suite des croisades, les différentes nations euro-
peennes adoptérent également des pavillons portant

4 la croix, la France pour sa part utilisant un pavillon a

croix rouge sur fond blanc. Vers 1360 cependant, pour
une raison inconnue, les couleurs s’inversérent et,
dans la deuxiéme moitié du XVe siécle, les vaisseaux
arborerent, avec le fleurdelisé, ce nouveau pavillon
carré, a fond rouge et a croix blanche. On retrouva
ancien drapeau blanc a croix rouge chez les Anglais,
‘la croix de Saint Georges”’.

Les débuts des colonies

Ainsi, il nest pas surprenant de voir un pavillon
carré bleu a trois fleurs de lys flotter sur le fort
Caroline, un établissement de huguenots francais
fondé en Floride en 1562 et détruit par les Espagnols
trois ans plus tard. Il nous semble également raison-
nable de penser que les drapeaux fleurdelisé et A croix
blanche furent tout probablement arborés sur les
vaisseaux et dans les premiers établissements francais
au Canada, au cours du XVle siécle.

“. . nous fimes faire une Croix haute de trente
pieds, et fut faite en la présence de plusieurs
diceux sur la pointe de ce port, au milieu de la-
quelle mimes un écusson relevé avec Trois Fleurs-
de-Lis, et dessus etoit écrit en grosses lettres en-
taillées en du bois, ‘“‘VIVE LE ROY DE FRANCE.”””

A Gaspé, le 24 juillet 1534, Jacques Cartier prend

possession du Canada au nom de la France avec la
croix et l’écu bleu a fleurs-de-lys des rois francais. Le

Fran eo1se

méme scénario se répéte le 3 mai 1536 lorsqu’on
éléve une croix a Stadaconé (Québec):
“Sous le croizillon de laquelle il y voit un Ecusson
en bosse des armes de France: et sur icelui estoit
écrit en lettres antiques: FRANCISCUS PRIMUS, DEI
GRATIA FRANCORUM REX, REGNAT.”’

Champlain, pour sa part, nous montre les vais-
seaux arborant des pavillons a croix blanche car ses
expeditions au Canada étaient surtout commerciales.
Cependant ce dernier pavillon, répandu sur les na-
vires de la marine marchande, avait subi une autre
transformation. Sa couleur de fond était passée du
rouge au bleu, cette couleur étant pratiquement la
seule utilisée sous Henri IV (1589-1610). Quant a sa
gravure de |’Habitation de Québec, on y voit une
flamme chargée de trois fleurs de lys.

La disparition graduelle du fleurdelisé

Mais a cette époque, le fleurdelisé était en voie de
disparition, méme dans la marine royale. En dépit
des édits de 1543 et de 1584, qui précisaient que les
vaisseaux du Roi devaient porter les lys de France et
les armes de |’Amiral, ce fut un pavillon de poupe
rouge qui devint populaire dans les années 1620-1640.
Les gravures de I’époque nous montrent également
des pavillons et des flammes d’une variété et d’une
richesse extraordinaires.

Nouveau Pautllon
Marchand Francais

Marchand francois

Détail du Tableau de tous les pavillons
que l’on arbore dans le monde connu
dressé a la fin du I7e siécle pour
Louis XIV. Francois: le drapeau arboré
par les vaisseaux du roi. Flamme Fran-
¢oise: également arboré par les vaisseaux
du roi. Nouveau Pavillon Marchand
Francois: arboré par les vaisseaux mar-
chands depuis 1661. Marchand Fran-
¢ois: modifié selon une ordonnance de
1689

Ce n’était la qu’apparat car un texte de 1643 nous
apprend que la marine de guerre arbore alors un pa-
villon blanc “‘sans aucun blason pour l’ordinaire”’ et
“que la Marine de commerce porte le pavillon bleu a
croix blanche.”

Le 9 octobre 1661, Louis XIV émet l’ordonnance
suivante:

“Sa Ma‘ ayant esté informée que plusieurs parti-
culiers Cap", M®** et Patrons de vaisseaux estans
a la mer et allans en voyages de long cours aulieu
de porter seulement Il’ancien pavillon de la nation
francoise prennent la liberté d’aborder le pavillon
blanc... . deffenses a tous Cap"s, M*® et Patrons de
vaisseaux particuliers, ses sujets, de porter le pavil-
lon blanc qui est reservé a ses seuls vaisseaux, et
veut et ordonne qu’ilz arborent seulement allans a
la mer, ou en quelque autre rencontre que puisse
estre, l’ancien pavillon de la nation frangoise qui
est la croix blanche dans un Estandart d’Etoffe
bleue avec l’Escu des armes de sa Ma* sur le
tOUL ee

Cette ordonnance confirmait donc le pavillon blanc
comme privilége royal. Le drapeau blanc possédait
également le privilege royal dans l’armée jusqu’a la
Révolution francaise et chaque régiment, en plus de
ses drapeaux régimentaires, en possédait un “parce
que le Blanc signifie la couleur de France.”

No

(An

26

Un plan de 1692. Un drapeau blanc flotte a droite (A.P.C.)

Le drapeau blanc au Canada

En ce qui concerne les drapeaux arborés au Canada
dans la premiere partie du XVI le siécle, nous n’avons
pas trouvé de preuve concluante a ce sujet. Mais,
puisque la colonie se trouvait alors sous ’administra-
tion de compagnies de commerce, il nous semble
logique d’affirmer que le pavillon utilisé par la marine
marchande “‘allans a la mer, ou en quelque autre
rencontre que puisse estre’ selon les mots de
Louis XIV, devait y flotter.

En 1664, toutefois, le Roi concéde le Canada a la
Compagnie des Indes Occidentales. Cette compagnie
dont le vaste monopole s’étendait non seulement en
Amérique mais aussi en Afrique, avait par privilége
royal, un pavillon “‘blanc avec les armes de France’’,
différent de celui de la marine marchande.

Finalement, en 1674, le Canada passa compléte-
ment sous l’administration royale et c’est sans doute
a cette époque que le drapeau blanc fut hissé pour
de bon. I] flottait probablement déja sur les nombreux
forts que les troupes royales, arrivées en 1665, avaient
déja construits.

Il semble évident qu’a partir de cette Epoque, le
drapeau blanc fut le symbole francais au Canada. En
1687, on envoie au ‘“‘fort de Plaisance en I’Isle de
Terre-Neuve” un ‘“‘pavillon blanc” et ‘‘une flame
rouge, et une blanche pour les signaux.” En 1695,
on trouve “Un pavillon pour le fort d’un vaisseau
de premier rang” parmi I’équipement nécessaire pour
le rétablissement du ‘fort au bas de la Riviére
St. Jean” en Acadie. En 1714 enfin, les Anglais re-
prirent possession du fort Nelson a la baie d’Hudson
et le Gouverneur Knight écrivit:

“Un des Indiens s’approcha quand j’ai_ hissé
Union Jack et me dit quil n’aimait pas le voir
mais qu'il aimait le pavillon blanc car beaucoup
des Indiens ont une grande amitié pour les Francais
ites

La méme tendance semble avoir cours jusqu’a la
fin du régime frangais. Parmi les marchandises re-
quises pour Louisbourg en 1757, figurent ‘*3 grands
pavillons de cent aunes de toille blanche pour les
batteries”’. La petite flotte frangaise sur le lac Ontario
arborait elle aussi le pavillon des vaisseaux du Roi.

I] nous semble donc que le pavillon ordinaire em-
ployé au Canada, de 1674 a 1760, était le drapeau
blanc dont nous avons également relevé l'utilisation
dans d’autres colonies frangaises.

Mentionnons ici que usage du pavillon blanc se
répandit méme dans la marine marchande et rem-
placa peu a peu le bleu et blanc de sorte qu'il était
presque universellement utilisé par les marchands
frangais au milieu du XVIIIe siécle. Le Roi s’inclina
finalement en le leur accordant officiellement en 1765.
La Compagnie des Indes avait toutefois eu le privi-
lege de larborer dés 1696.

Tee vaisseaux du or le DEOwmcare arborant
les flammes blanches, 1757(A.P.C.)

La signification du drapeau blanc

Le drapeau blanc était loin d’avoir dans les com-
bats qui impliquaient des Frangais la signification
qu’on lui préte aujourd’hui. De nombreuses pein-
tures nous montrent les flottes frangaises en plein
combat, arborant le pavillon blanc. Lors d’un combat
dans l’océan Indien en 1782, par exemple, le pavillon
de poupe du navire frangais ‘“‘Le Héros”’ fut abattu
aux cris de joie des marins anglais. Le commandant
donna l’ordre de couvrir le vaisseau de pavillons
blancs et le combat reprit aussit6t avec l’ardeur re-
doublée des marins. L’histoire témoigne des valeurs
guerri¢res des soldats et des marins francais au
Canada. Nous mentionnerons en terminant le geste
du capitaine de Bassignac du régiment Royal-
Roussillon a la bataille de Carillon, en 1758, alors
qu il attacha son mouchoir blanc au bout d’un fusil
pour défier ’ennemi a se battre.

René Chartrand est conservateur militaire, Parcs Canada.

Davidson—Continued from page 3

“The Byways and Special Places program is a good one and
I want to see it get off the ground.”

‘A lot of hard work has been put into it already and I’d
like to see it get moving. I think it’s an imaginative concept.
All we have to do is make it workable. We’ll be holding dis-
cussions with the provinces in the next two or three months.”

Mr. Davidson said several important questions are arising.

“Do we have a role in national recreation? Do we have a
role in national fitness...tourism? Do we have a role in all of
these in addition to preservation? I think the answer to
these is yes.”

Al Davidson has been concerned with Canada’s resources
for much of his life. His father was a prospector and, as a boy,
he grew up in the bush in the Sturgeon and Savant Lakes area
north of the Lakehead.

After a brief stint in the navy, he was off to university. ‘I
started out in geology at Queen’s. Then I got the conservation
bug and decided geology was a bit too commercial.” He
changed courses. He obtained a B.A. in Economics and
History, then he switched to geography and obtained a
Masters from the University of Toronto.

Al Davidson then began a career spanning more than 22
years which has taken him to Regina and the Saskatchewan
Department of Natural Resources, then Ottawa and a variety
of federal departments including Northern Affairs and
National Resources, Agriculture, Forestry, Energy, Mines and
Resources and Environment.

“All in all, | guess you could say everything I’ve done has
had to do with the management of most resources.”’

One of the greatest resources of this country are those areas
preserved by Parks Canada, he said.

“Tm not making any speeches about it, but I really do feel
these parks have a big, special role to play. One way is through
the fact they are federal. People in one part of the country
can relate to a park in another. They really are a symbol
of unity.”

The development of historic sites is another way Parks
Canada is making a contribution to Canada.

““We’ve done some excellent work, but there’s a great deal
to do. We have more of a backlog to catch up than with
National Parks.”’

Mr. Davidson said he feels that the most intensive environ-
mental management should be carried out in the National
Parks. “‘But obviously there’s a problem. How do you ac-
commodate demand for use without impairing the future of
these areas.

“If the parks were ecological preserves we could exclude
humans, but it’s not like that in most areas of our parks. This
problem of people versus preservation... it’s a matter of
continual good work and continual accommodation. That
requires a lot of pragmatic approaches. Conservationists don’t
like to talk about accommodation. They only talk of preserva-
tion. But our objectives embrace both. So that’s never going
to be easy.”

John Olson is an Information Officer with Indian and
Northern Affairs.

Suite de la page 3

M. Davidson a ajouté que plusieurs questions importantes
se posent actuellement.

““Jouons-nous un r6le dans les activités de loisir au Canada?
Jouons-nous un réle dans le conditionnement physique...
dans le tourisme? Aurons-nous d’autres réles A jouer que
celui de la conservation? Je crois qu’on doit répondre par
affirmative.”

Les ressources naturelles du Canada ont toujours tenu une
place dans la vie d’Al Davidson. Son pére était prospecteur
et il a passé sa jeunesse dans la brousse, dans la région des lacs
Sturgeon et Savant, au nord de Thunder Bay.

Aprés un court séjour dans la marine, il s’inscrit a ’'univer-
sité. ‘‘J’ai commencé mes études a l’Université Queen’s, en
geologie. Le virus de la conservation m’a alors atteint et jai
conclu que la géologie était une activité trop commerciale.”
Ce changement d’orientation lui valut un baccalauréat en
économie et en histoire. I] décrocha ensuite une maitrise en
géographie de |’ Université de Toronto.

I] joignit alors les rangs du ministére des Richesses naturelles
de la Saskatchewan. Aprés des études en administration
publique a l’Université Carleton, il passa au ministére du
Nord canadien et des Richesses nationales. Ii devint ensuite
sous-ministre adjoint des ministéres des Terres et Foréts, de
l’Energie et, de 1971 a 1973, de T Environnement.

“En résumé, je crois que tout ce que j’ai accompli par le
passé, touchait en grande partie a la gesiion de la plupart des
ressources.

Certaines des plus importantes ressources de ce pays,
affirme-t-il, sont celles que préserve Parcs Canada. ‘‘Je ne veux
pas trop m’étendre sur le sujet mais je crois vraiment que ces
parcs jouent un role particulier. L’une de leurs facettes est le
fait que ces parcs sont du ressort du gouvernement fédéral.
Les gens d’une région peuvent ainsi se sentir chez eux dans un
parc, situé a l’autre extrémité du pays. Ils sont vraiment un
symbole de l’unité nationale.”

La mise en oeuvre des lieux historiques est une autre facon
par laquelle Parcs Canada contribue a l’unité canadienne.

*“Nous avons accompli de l’excellent travail, mais il y a
beaucoup a faire. Nous avons dans ce domaine plus de rat-
trapage a faire que dans celui des parcs nationaux.””

M. Davidson estime qu’une gestion de l’environnement
devrait étre effectuée de fagon plus intensive dans les parcs
nationaux. ‘“‘Mais de toute évidence, un probléme se pose.
Comment concilier la demande d utilisation sans porter
atteinte a avenir de ces régions?”

‘Si les parcs étaient des réserves, nous pourrions en exclure
les visiteurs, mais il n’en est pas ainsi dans la plupart des
secteurs de nos parcs. Concilier les intéréts de ’ homme et ceux
de la conservation...c’est une question de travail sans relache
et de perpétuels compromis. Ceci requiert beaucoup de de-
marches pragmatiques. Les écologistes n’aiment pas entendre
le mot ‘“‘compromis”’. Ils ne parlent que de conservation.
Mais nos buts comprennent a la fois les deux. Cela ne sera
donc jamais facile.”

Mes i a oe ee ee ee

John Olson est agent d@’information au ministere des Affai
res indiennes et du Nord.

28

PARCS NATIONAUX

Les gouvernements fédéral et de Terre-Neuve ont signé

en aoat les documents finals concernant l’établissement du
parc national de Gros-Morne. Situé sur la cote ouest de
Vile de Terre-Neuve, le parc couvre une superficie de

750 milles carrés et offre des paysages variés: falaises,
collines, plaines cétiéres et fjords spectaculaires.

Le ministre a alors annoncé des projets d’investissement
de l’ordre de $10 4 $12 millions de dollars répartis

sur cing ans.

PLAINS BUFFALO PRESERVED

The ground was black with them. In the 1870s and 1880s,
the plains vibrated with the thunder of the hoofs of millions
of plains buffalo ranging over western North America.

With the Plains Indians, there was a balanced relationship.
The Indians took only for their basic needs of food, cloth-
ing, shelter and fuel and made no greater demands on the
herds than their annual increase could supply.

Then came the white man—with his guns and links with
far-distant markets—the buffalo herds seemed almost inex-
haustible. In a season, white and Indian hunters might kill
one to three thousand buffalo to supply the commercial
demand for hides and meat. Taking the skins, or in some
case, only the buffalo tongues—considered a delicacy in
Europe—they left mountains of flesh to rot in the prairie
sun. Later the heaps of bleached bones were used to make
fertilizer.

By 1900, the plains buffalo was near extinction. Then, in
1906, the last large herd of plains buffalo was discovered in
Montana.

Canada bought about 700 buffalo in 1907. By 1912, most of
the herd was quartered at Wainwright, Alberta. Later
more than 6,600 were moved to Wood Buffalo National
Park. Intermingling with the wood buffalo, a darker, larger
relative of the plains buffalo, increased the stock until now,
there are about 13,000.

Today, small herds can also be seen at Riding Mountain,
Prince Albert, Waterton Lakes, Jasper and Banff National
Parks. The largest fenced herd is at Elk Island National
Park.

Since 1968 four auctions of buffalo from this herd haye been
held for Canadian ranchers interested in breeding domestic
herds of this once, near extinct wild animal.

At Elk Island National Park, Alberta, a plaque to comme-
morate the preservation of the plains buffalo was erected by
the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada.

LE PETROLE...AU SIECLE DERNIER

Peu de gens connaissent les débuts de l industrie du
pétrole et la part qu'un citoyen canadien y a joué au
siécle dernier.

La distillation du k éroséne, a partir de minerai de charbon,
contribua a la naissance de cette industrie géante et
omniprésente de notre société actuelle. Le mérite en revient
a Abraham Gesner, médecin et chirurgien, géologue

dans ses temps libres.

Né a Cornwallis, Nouvelle-Ecosse, en 1797, Gesner y
poursuivait ses expériences en géologie lorsqu il trouva la
fagon de distiller, a partir du charbon, une huile qu il
appella kéroséne.

Le kéroséne assurait un meilleur éclairage que les chan-
delles de suif ou les lampes aU huile de baleine dont on se
servait alors. Gesner organisa des démonstrations de

son pétrole lampant a Charlottetown, en aout 1846, et un
peu plus tard a Halifax.

Les auditoires s esclafférent. Voyons ! Le centre méme de
l'industrie de la péche a la baleine remplacerait I’ huile de
cet animal par le kéroséne? Impensable !

Gesner tenta toutefois d’implanter une compagnie de
kéroséne a Halifax. L’inévitable se produisit. Son échec le
conduisit alors a New-York. En 1854, il obtint trois brevets
américains a’ invention concernant ce produit. La North
American Kerosene Gas Light Company connut alors

un vif succes.

Ses concurrents cherchaient cependant une autre source
dot ils pourraient tirer ce pétrole lampant. Le forage

du premier puits et la découverte de pétrole en Pennsylvanie,
en 1859, leur apporteérent la solution et lancérent une
nouvelle industrie.

Gesner mourut a Halifax, le 29 avril 1864. Un monument
commémoratif érigé a Chipman Corner, N.-E., par la
Commission des lieux et monuments historiques, rappelle
son souvenir.

rate:

: vino aan

ibaa Naat

tetas ep te EE AEDT

=

sant

San Birnie

one

Recycling our yesterdays
L’histoire nous accueille

okey

“Spay

aS DUOIsIH [LUONEN esjyeay] Pues soejed

y nary

J1A04S1

os
9

goejeg pues aujeay| jeuoieu

Gash ool Ay

Mea heh
ak

NBN

As we see it/ Un mot de la rédaction...

La vraie nature des parcs nationaux

Pierre DesMeules 5

Going Back a Long Way
for Small Things

John Beswarick Thompson 9

Duffle Coats, KLIM Tins and “I wonder
what became of Sally”

Wayne Colwell 13

Plus

16

Mackenzie River Journal

Tom Kovacs 19

La naissance d’un mythe

Yvon Desloges 25

Et Cetera

29

I am more than pleased and honoured at becoming
Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs, as I feel
a very deep affinity for this Department.

I have been, since February 1973, Chairman of
the Standing Committee on Indian and Northern
Affairs, and before that, Parliamentary Secretary to
my predecessor and friend, Jean Chrétien.

In my new role I shall be particularly interested
and challenged by the programs of Parks Canada.

The establishment of many new National Parks,
the further development of our National Historic
Parks and Sites and the extension of the Parks
Canada program through ARC (The Agreement for
Recreation and Conservation, formerly called
Byways and Special Places) — all, are of the utmost
urgency. And, in addition, there are many other
aspects of our programs that are informative and
exciting. Through the pages of Conservation Canada
we hope to provide meaningful insights into our
progress and achievements.

pe appris avec joie et fierté ma nomination au
poste de ministre des Affaires indiennes et du Nord.

Mais avant toute chose, je voudrais rendre
hommage a mon ami et collégue, monsieur Jean
Chrétien, qui m’a précédé et dont je fus le secrétaire
parlementaire dés 1970. Cet homme s’est entiére-
ment consacré a son travail et ses efforts furent
couronnés de succés. Sa persévérance et son
enthousiasme devinrent pour moi des exemples
a suivre.

L’expérience acquise par ma participation a
divers comités de la Chambre des Communes et
surtout en tant que président du Comité permanent
des Affaires indiennes et du Nord, depuis février
1973, me permettra de me lancer d’emblée dans les
voies Ouvertes par monsieur Chrétien pour l’amé-
nagement et I’exploitation du patrimoine historique
et naturel et d’en tracer de nouvelles.

L’intérét du public envers ce patrimoine est déja
en éveil; je ferai tout en mon pouvoir pour le nourrir,
le diversifier et le faire croitre.

Je profite de ’occasion pour souhaiter a mon tour
aux lecteurs de Conservation Canada, un agréable
voyage de découverte de la nature et de l'histoire
du Canada.

al

SS)

AS we see it...

Un mot de
la rédaction...

(Nee Faille, legendary prospector of the Nahan-
ni, is dead. But his name will linger forever — not
only on the pages of history but also on the trail that
for forty-some years he trudged, alone, in his futile
search for gold.

The portage around spectacular Virginia Falls in
the newly created Nahanni National Park, is to be
named Faille Portage. Parks planners had decided
upon the name even before the old man died at the
agerolrrs oon December 3 11973:

During his trek down the Mackenzie River, Tom
Kovacs met and took what are probably the last pho-
tographs of the world-famous prospector. This meet-
ing and the pictures are included in Tom’s article
“Mackenzie River Journal”.

While Albert was solitarily panning for Yukon
gold, Canadians were reading about the R.C.M.P.
vessel St. Roch, which in 1944, had just completed
her second conquest of the Northwest Passage. This
October 16, the little ship, renovated and refurbished
to her appearance of that voyage, will be officially
opened as a National Historic Site. The restoration of
the St. Roch has taken the better part of four years.
Historian, John Thompson and curator, Wayne Col-
well give their impressions of the relationships that
exist between the ship and the people whose job it
has been to bring her back to life.

Featured this issue, is an article by Pierre Des-
Meules, on the Resource Inventory of Parks Canada
and Yvon Desloges appraises the hero as hero in his
discussion of the rise of de Salaberry to historic
prominence.

IB ’équipe de Conservation Canada vous convie a
poursuivre votre visite des parcs nationaux, des parcs,
lieux et canaux historiques du Canada.

Nous avons essayé de garder le méme équilibre
dans la présentation thématique des articles; vous
pourrez ainsi connaitre le travail d’inventaire des res-
sources des parcs nationaux, revivre lépoque de
Charles-Michel de Salaberry et monter a bord du
St. Roch. En effet, ce navire de la GRC, complete-
ment restauré, sera ouvert au public le 16 octobre
prochain, 30 ans apres son retour du voyage Van-
couver-Halifax par le passage du Nord-Ouest.

De plus, si les loisirs en plein air vous attirent, une
descente en canot du fleuve Mackenzie saura vous
intéresser. Vous ferez alors la connaissance, malheu-
reusement posthume, d’Albert Faille, un prospec-
teur de la région du nouveau parc national de Na-
hanni, décédé le 31 décembre dernier a l’age de 85
ans. En souvenir de cet homme attachant, Parcs
Canada vient de donner son nom au portage con-
tournant la chute Virginia a l’intérieur du parc.

Enfin, nous vous incluons en pages centrales des
photographies sur lautomne et sur les animaux
pourvu qu’elles ne vous fassent pas oublier de lire
notre rubrique de comptes rendus de volumes.

Si la contemplation, ou lanalyse ou . . . la critique
vous a mis en verve, écrivez-nous et faites-nous part
de vos impressions.

C. Elliott

LA VRAIE NATURE
DES PARGS NATIONAU

L’INVENTAIRE DES RESSOURCES

PAR PIERRE DESMEULES

Pierre DesMeules is the Chief of the Applied Re-
search Division of Parks Canada, which has the task
of locating, identifying, analysing, mapping and com-
puterizing all the natural and historic resources in
Canada’s National Parks. In this article, he outlines
what kind of information is required by the Inven-
tory and describes how it is collected and catalogued.

Vous découvrirez, en visitant un parc national, des
éléments caractéristiques des “grands paysages” dt
Canada ou des traits uniques de sa géographie. Hs y
sont protégés, intacts, pour le bénefice des Cana-
diens .. . et de leurs descendants.

La préservation et l'utilisation sont toutefois deux
activités difficilement conciliables. Seule une con-
naissance approfondie de l’ensemble des ressources
de ces territoires peut permettre aux spécialistes d’ela-
borer des plans qui en assureront la pérennite tout en
les rendant accessibles 4 un nombre toujours crois-
sant de citoyens avides de l’émerveillement que leur
procurent la grande nature sauvage, les grands es-
paces aussi exempts que possible des empreintes de
homme industriel.

4

Une vallée typique du parc national de I’Ile Baffin

>

Photographie aérienne servant a la délimitation des types
de paysage: G1, plaine deltaique; A5, A6, plaine cotiere
légérement ondulée; B2, B3, piedmont (région des col-
lines). Parc national de Pukaskwa

Un reptile du parc national de
la Pointe Pelée

Sa genése

L’inventaire systématique et intégré des ressources
des parcs nationaux est une activité relativement ré-
cente. Lors de la premiére série d’audiences publi-
ques tenue au sujet des plans-cadres provisoires, une
des représentations les plus constantes visait l’insuffi-
sance de nos connaissances de base des ressources des
parcs qu’on se proposait d’aménager. Jusqu’a ce jour,
linitiative de recueillir les données d’inventaire était
laissée au planificateur. Pressé qu’il était par d’autres
priorités et soumis a un échéancier trés strict, ce der-
nier était le plus souvent incapable de recueillir toute
l'information nécessaire. Convaincue qu'il fallait, au
plus tot, remédier a ce manque de données adéqua-
tes, la Direction mit sur pied, a la fin de 1970, un
groupe de travail chargé de mettre au point une mé-
thodologie d’inventaire, d’élaborer un plan d’attaque
et d’en coordonner la mise en ceuvre.

Les participants a ce groupe de travail ne se leur-
raient pas; ils devaient s’attaquer a une tache gigan-
tesque: décrire et localiser en termes précis, pour des
usagers de disciplines trés variées une gamme pres-
que infinie de ressources, allant du plus petit animal-

D. H. Rivard

cule a la communauté végétale la plus complexe, en
passant par les séries de sols les plus obscures et les
formes de relief les plus extravagantes. Tout ¢a, ré-
parti a travers un réseau de parcs de superficies
diverses — quelques cents acres a 18,000 milles car-
rés — disséminés ¢a et la entre la cote de Ie Van-
couver et Terre-Neuve, I’Ile Baffin et la Pointe Pelée,
le point le plus méridional du Canada.

Methodes et cueillette

Au départ, on disposait de nombreuses méthodes
pour effectuer des inventaires de ressources. Toute-
fois, chacune de ces méthodes avait été élaborée en
fonction de besoins spécifiques, généralement orien-
tes vers exploitation d’une ressource en particulier.
C’est ainsi que la plupart des méthodes d’inventaires
forestiers traduisent leurs résultats en cordes de bois
a pate ou en “pieds mesure de planche”, les inventai-
res géologiques, en tonnes de minerais ou en barils
@huile, les inventaires ichtyologiques en livres de
poissons a l’acre-pied, et ainsi de suite. Pareilles mé-
thodes, il va sans dire, ont peu d’application dans un
parc national ot lexploitation des ressources n’a
guére sa place.

L. M. Cumming

Une des premiéres taches du groupe de l’inventai-
re des ressources devait donc consister en une revue
des méthodes disponibles pour les adapter a nos be-
soins, ou d’en soutirer les meilleurs éléments dans le
but d’en élaborer de nouvelles, mieux adaptées aux
fins poursuivies par les parcs nationaux. Mais, en ces
années ou le progrés technologique est si rapide, nul
ne peut se contenter trop longtemps d’une méme
méthode. Tel moyen technique qui nous apparaissait
avant-garde hier, peut facilement étre dépasseé au-
jourd’hui. Aussi faut-il constamment remettre en
question la valeur de nos méthodes et nous tenir a la
fine pointe du progrés. L’élaboration de nouvelles

M. M. Grandtner

1, Le recensement des orignaux dans le parc
national de Pukaskwa

2, Plis de glissement dans les calcaires. Parc
national de Gros Morne

3. Sous-bois. Parc national de la Mauricie

4, Communauté végétale pionniére. Parc national
Forillon

techniques d’inventaire, mieux adaptées a nos be-
soins, doit donc demeurer, chez nous, un soucl
constant.

A l'exception des gardes de parc, qui y jouent un
role de plus en plus important, le personnel de Parcs
Canada n’est pas impliqué dans la cueillette méme des
données d’inventaire. Le rdle de l’équipe est limite a
formuler les besoins, a arréter la méthodologie, et a
superviser et coordonner l’activité. La majeure par-
tie des travaux est confiée a des spécialistes d’autres
agences gouvernementales, a des chercheurs duniver-
sités ou a des consultants privés. Parmi les agences
fédérales qui contribuent le plus étroitement a l’in-
ventaire citons: le Service canadien de la Faune,
Institut d’Aménagement forestier, la Commission
géologique du Canada, le Musée des Sciences natu-
relles, le Service de l’environnement atmosphérique,
l’Office des Recherches sur les Pécheries et en parti-
culier sa Section de la Recherche sur l’Arctique. Plu-
sieurs de ces agences du gouvernement fédéral dis-
posent d’un personnel qui voue tout son temps a
Vinventaire de nos parcs.

Le réseau des parcs nationaux du Canada com-
porte présentement 28 parcs totalisant une superficie
de plus de 50,000 milles carrés. Il va de soi qu'il n’est
pas possible d’effectuer d’un seul coup l’inventaire de
tous ces territoires. Nous ne disposons ni de l’argent
ni de l’expertise nécessaires.

Il faut présentement pres de trois ans, dont deux
consacrés aux travaux sur le terrain, avant de comple-
ter l’inventaire d’un parc national. On doit d’abord
faire exécuter la prise de photographie aérienne a
une échelle appropriée et faire préparer les cartes de
base, pendant qu’on procéde a une compilation et a
un examen minutieux de l'information déja existante,
afin d’éviter les dédoublements, didentifier les prin-
cipales lacunes et de tracer un plan d’action. On
s'attaque ensuite a la classification bio-physique du
territoire, c’est-a-dire a lidentification et a la délimi-
tation des “types de paysages”. Par “type de paysa-
ge”, on entend ici une unité de terrain reposant sur
une roche-mére donnée sur laquelle se développent
des sols et une séquence de végétation homogenes. Ce
morcellement du territoire en unités naturelles ho-
mogénes sert de cadre a un échantillonnage ultérieur
des communautés animales et végétales qui y sont
associées. L’inventaire ne se termine pas la. [1 nous
faut de plus connaitre le climat général et les micro-
climats de certains coins particuliers, ’hydrologie, la
limnologie et j’en passe.

Les inventaires archéologiques et historiques ne
doivent pas, non plus, étre négligés car les territoires
aujourd’hui constitués en parcs nationaux renfer-
ment des vestiges trés importants de l’époque pré-
industrielle. On risquerait autrement de détruire une
partie importante du patrimoine culturel qu’il nous
incombe de préserver, tout autant que le patrimoine
naturel.

L’ Atlas des ressources

Mais ce n’est pas tout de recueillir pareille quan-
tité de données sur les ressources de nos parcs. Le
plus difficile reste a faire. Il s’agit de presenter ces
données de facon a ce que tous les usagers possibles
puissent les mettre a profit dans lélaboration de
plans-cadres, de plans d’aménagement des ressour-
ces et d’interprétation de la nature, de méme que
dans les décisions de gestion que le surintendant doit
prendre quotidiennement en vue d’assurer la bonne
marche du parce qu'il doit administrer.

Nous sommes présentement en train d’élaborer, de
concert avec des spécialistes en présentation graphi-
que, un Atlas-type qui tentera précisément de synthe-
tiser toute l'information pertinente aux ressources
d’un parc sous une forme qui la rende utilisable par
toutes les personnes concernées et avec un minimum
d’effort. L’Atlas des ressources ne sera pas une pana-
cée, mais il contribuera sans doute grandement a
faciliter le processus de planification et la prise de
saines décisions de gestion concernant les parcs na-
tionaux. S’il ne faisait que cela, l’effort nécessaire a
sa production serait pleinement justifié.

Aprés trois années d’efforts, malgré les difficultés
énormes rencontrées, le bilan de linventaire est assez
impressionnant: l’Atlas des ressources est en voie de
préparation pour trois parcs, les travaux sur le ter-
rain sont a toutes fins utiles terminés dans sept autres
parcs et en bonne voie dans trois. Ils viennent d’étre
amorcés dans une demi-douzaine d’autres. La néces-
sité de données d’inventaire de qualité s’affirme de
plus en plus et l’inventaire demeurera une activité
permanente au sein de Parcs Canada.

L’auteur, ingénieur forestier et biologiste de la faune, est
chef de la Division de la recherche appliquée de Parcs
Canada. II fut, entre autres, chef de la Division de la faune
terrestre du ministére du Tourisme, Chasse et Péche du
Québec de 1964 a 1967 et recherchiste-en-chef sur I’ éco-
logie du lion au sein du Ngorongoro Conservation Unit,
en Tanzanie, Afrique orientale, de 1968 a 1970.

Cast and crew of the St. Roch restoration project left to right: Wayne Colwell (curator), Pat Hunt (former crewman)
Alf Wildsmith (restoration engineer), Stan McKenzie (former crewman) and John Thompson (historian).

Dave Clark

“Going Back a©Long Way
for EHiall “Things...”

By John Beswarick Thompson

The Historian and the St. Roch

John Beswarick Thompson relate les circonstances
qui l’ont amené a travailler au projet de restauration
du navire St. Roch. Il explique les difficultés rencon-
trées, rappelle les joies ressenties et fait revivre les
amitiés nouées durant cette période.

| cannot now recall whether November 23, 1970
was a bleak day or not. It must have been. It was a
Monday in the gloomiest month of the year and it
was on the afternoon of that day that my supervisor
walked up to my desk and, stroking his beard, won-
dered whether I would be interested in a little rush
project. It had to do with the St. Roch.

“An R.C.M.P. ship... out in Vancouver . . . went
through the Northwest Passage in the 1940’s. “We've
got to put up a small interpretive display around it

.need a historian to write the copy. Would you
like to work with the designer on the thing?”

It wasn’t that I had never heard of the St. Roch.
Somewhere in the mists of memory bobbed the flot-

sam of long-vanished schooldays, a remembrance of
her exploits as told in a fifth grade reader. But with
my nautical experience extending no further than
one ride on the Vancouver-Nanaimo ferry years be-
fore, I felt somewhat less than eminently qualified to
tell the tale of the St. Roch to the people of Canada.
Nevertheless, I got the job.

It turned out to be an enjoyable assignment. I
spent the dreary days of waning November devour-
ing as many books and articles on the subject as
could be found. By the time the Christmas rush had
seized the city, the display texts had been written,
edited, rewritten and submitted. And that, I thought,
was that.

But such was not the case. In February 1971
came word that the St. Roch, bare and rotting in the
Vancouver Maritime Museum, was to be at last re-
paired and restored by the National Historic Sites
Service. The job would take three years and $316,000
to complete. An historian was required on the pro-
ject immediately. As the resident expert on the his-
tory of the ship by virtue of my two week crash
course in late autumn, I was, of course, that historian.

10

For those who have read this far without an ink-
ling of the “national historic importance” of the Sr.
Roch, an expository digression seems now in order.
The ship was built in 1928 by the Burrard Dry Dock
Company of North Vancouver for the Royal Cana-
dian Mounted Police to supply their northern posts,
to serve as a floating detachment wherever needed
and to patrol the waters of the western Arctic. Every
year from 1928 to 1939, the St. Roch had sailed
the Arctic Ocean. During this time she had spent
eight winters locked in the ice. In 1940 the ship set
out from Vancouver on a secret mission to sail from
west to east through the Northwest Passage to
demonstrate Canadian sovereignty over the Arctic
islands in a time of war. Over 27 months later, in
October 1942, the St. Roch arrived at Halifax. She
was the first ship ever to travel from the Pacific to
the Atlantic through the Arctic Ocean. In July 1944,
following an extensive refit, the St. Roch set off
again on a “secret mission” to the north. This time
she headed along the more northerly route through
the Northwest Passage which had never been suc-
cessfully navigated. Eighty-six days later, on Octo-
ber 16, 1944, after a remarkable voyage marked by
both great skill and good luck, she arrived in Van-
couver. The St. Roch became the first ship to com-
plete the Passage in a single season, the first to travel
through the northern, deep-water route, and the first
to sail the Northwest Passage in both directions.

In time, the two voyages of the St. Roch were
recognized as achievements of considerable national
importance. Due to the efforts of a number of dedi-
cated individuals, the ship was saved following her

R.C.M.P.

retirement in 1954 and was put on public display by
the City of Vancouver in 1958. Four years later the
St. Roch was declared “of national historic signifi-
cance” by the Historic Sites and Monuments Board
of Canada. In 1968 the Board recommended that
the ship be restored by the Government of Canada
to her appearance during the voyage through the
Northwest Passage in 1944. Planning of the restora-
tion of the St. Roch began in February 1971.

Great changes had been made to the ship in the
27 years following 1944. I was asked that February
to find out, in as much detail as possible, what the
vessel looked like during her second trip through
the Passage. With this information the marine engi-
neers could correctly repair and accurately restore
the ship. Later, the curator could acquire the ap-
propriate fittings, furnishings and gear to make the
St. Roch come alive again.

I began by collecting as many photographs of the
ship taken in 1944 as I could find. It soon became
obvious that although there were many pictures of
the exterior of the ship, there were very few of the
interior. Nobody, it seemed, took photographs in-
side a small, dark ship. I had to take a new tack.

The most inviting course seemed to lie in looking
for the men who had sailed on the St. Roch in 1944.
If they could be found, surely they would be able to
fill in the many missing interior details. I knew that
Henry Larsen, captain of the ship from 1928 to
1948, had died in 1964. I felt there was little chance
that two old-timers who were on board in 1944,

o7 AZ

], July 44 Cpl. Pat Hunt and Seaman Stan McKenzie,
seated together upper left, photographed with the rest of
the crew aboard the St. Roch in Halifax just before the
now famous 86-day voyage through the Northwest
Passage.

2. February’73 =Hunt and McKenzie tour the restoration-

in-progress offering valuable assistance and advice.

Rudy Johnsen and Ole Andreasen, would still be
living. But what of the other nine crewmembers?
Where were they?

Starting with a list of their names and addresses
taken from the February 1945 issue of the Canadian
Geographical Journal, | began thumbing through
Canadian telephone directories. There was a Frank
Matthews listed in the Port aux Basques, Newfound-
land book. A call, however, revealed sadly that he
had died about a year and a half before. His friend
and fellow Newfoundlander on the St. Roch, Stan
McKenzie, I was told, was living in Yarmouth, Nova
Scotia. A phone call there brought me in touch with
him. He averred that he had not kept track of the
St. Roch since he had served aboard her but had
visited Henry Larsen when his former captain had
lived in Lunenburg in the early 1960’s. He thought
he still had a pretty good idea of what the inside of
the ship looked like in 1944 and he said he would
be happy to help. He did not know the whereabouts
of any of the other crewmembers.

Dave Clark

Back to the telephone books. William Cashin, my
list noted, had come from Dartmouth, Nova Scotia.
Five families of Cashins were listed in the Halifax
directory. As luck would have it, on my first call I
reached Bill Cashin’s brother. The man I was look-
ing for was living in the Yukon. At Carmacks, to be
exact. Unfortunately, he had no telephone. A letter
would have to do. (I did not know at that time how
difficult Bill Cashin would be to reach. Nine months
passed before I finally spoke to him for the first time
on the telephone.) At least I now knew of two crew-
members.

Two others, Lloyd Russill and G. B. Dickens, had
names sufficiently uncommon to prompt me to check
various Canadian phone books for their where-
abouts. None of the Dickens in New Brunswick,
however, could help me find the former cook. Mrs.
Russill of Wauchope, Saskatchewan believed that
the former radio operator on the St. Roch was a
relative, but she had no idea where he was.

I then learned from Alex Stevenson, Chairman of
the N.W.T. Historical Advisory Board, that Pani-
pakuttuk, the Inuit guide who had joined the crew
of the St. Roch at Pond Inlet, N.W.T. as a special
constable, had died only a year before my search
had begun. About the same time I discovered in a
batch of press clippings, the obituary of Rudolph
Johnsen. He died in Vancouver in 1966 at the age
of 90. Later I learned that Ole Andreasen had been
the first of the crew to pass away, also in Vancouver,
in 1946.

At this point a most helpful ally in the pursuit of
men, the R.C.M.P., who had owned the St. Roch,
responded to my request for help. Stan Horrall, his-
torian of the Force, informed me that most of the
crew of 1944 had been special constables, sworn in
only for the voyage, and that no record had been
kept of their whereabouts. Three of the crew, how-
ever, had been full-time police officers and for pen-
sion purposes the R.C.M.P. had their addresses on
file. One, G. W. Peters of Chilliwack, B.C., had died
in 1969. The others were Patrick G. Hunt of Win-
nipeg and James B. Diplock of St. Catharines. My
call that evening to Pat Hunt introduced me to the
only man living who had made both trips through
the Passage in the St. Roch. He was uncertain
whether his memory would help us much (it did),
but he promised as much assistance as he could
provide.

Early the next morning I reached Jim Diplock,
then on the night shift of the St. Catharines police
force, before he went to bed. He had made a hobby
of going around the schools in the area with a film
of the St. Roch and talking about the ship to the

1]

12

Bruce Easson

students. He was eager to help. He also thought that
he still had the address of Lloyd Russill. Three
months later it turned up in the clutter of an old
drawer. He was so excited with his discovery that he
called me long distance with the news and forgot to
reverse the charges.

Little wonder I had been unable to locate Lloyd
Russill in Canadian telephone directories. He had
moved to the United States. It eventually took a
month of futile calls to California before I finally
tracked down the former radio operator at his new
address at Encinitas, near San Diego. He said that
he remembered the St. Roch fondly — even had a
painting of her in his den — and, like all the others,
he offered to do what he could to help us restore the
old ship. Lloyd Russill was the fifth and last crew-
member I found. Six had died. I never found
Dickens, the cook.

The next stage of the project took me, along with
Frank Harley*, the marine engineer in charge of the
restoration, across the continent from Nova Scotia
to California to visit each crewmember. With us we
brought the photographs, a blank isometric drawing
of the interior of the ship, a tape recorder and a bot-
tle of rum. We hoped to restore the St. Roch with
sufficient accuracy to make the ship look lived-in.

“Frank Harley died suddenly on December 30, 1972. His careful

planning and infectious enthusiasm for the St. Roch restoration
still remains.

Frank Harley in earnest conversation with Jim Diplock
during the initial phase of restoration.

We hoped that when we were finished, a member of
the crew of 1944 could visit the vessel and find her
like she had been then. Accordingly, we asked ques-
tions as general as the colour the ship was painted
and as picayune as the brand of cigarettes each man
smoked. One by one, each man added what he could
recall of the St. Roch in 1944. In the end, our draw-
ing which had been blank was full of lively detail.
“Tt was,” as Jim Diplock put it, “going back a long
way for small things.”

Each man also gave us more photographs of the
1944 trip. Taken by amateurs on small box cameras
— often under adverse northern conditions — these
pictures were sometimes fuzzy and faded, but they
extended our knowledge of the ship and were in-
valuable in the restoration. They also added a
human dimension to the voyage, showing the crew
hauling in buckets of drinking water, poking eagerly
through northern caches and smiling happily at the
end of the trip.

After the former crewmembers had finished tell-
ing us about the material things that had been on
board, they began to talk about the little things that
had happened during the trip. I was fascinated.
Twenty-seven years before, each man had come to
the St. Roch from a different place and later each
man had left the ship to go his separate way. Only
the voyage which they had all shared, united them.
Yet each man had a different view of that journey.
It was not one voyage. It was each man’s voyage.

Moreover, some of the others who had been on
board in 1944 but who had since died, had left their
accounts of the trip. Henry Larsen, who, according
to Pat Hunt, “wouldn’t say a bad word about any-
body,” recorded his kindly impressions of the journey
in his book The Big Ship. In North magazine Pani-

_pakuttuk published his reminiscences of the voyage

filled with the poetry of his fears and delights. Final-
ly, Ole Andreasen, the old Norwegian-born north-
erner to whom writing did not come easily, left
us a simple and eloquent first mate’s log which was
discovered on a dusty shelf in the Vancouver Mari-
time Museum. Filled with Ole’s references to “sea
girls”, “walrose” and “bear Polars”, it gave colour
and depth to each of the 86 days of the trip.

When it came time to write my report, I found
it had been written for me. The photographs and the
reminiscences made a story. I simply performed the
service of marriage.

a

I'submitted my report in the spring of 1972 and
confidently thought that I would be free to turn to
other matters. Again, such was not the case. There
always seemed to be more to do — another question
to answer, another meeting to attend. There was a
plaque to write, a pamphlet to compose and more
letters to send. In February 1973, the engineers, the
curator and I spent several days on board the St.
Roch in the company of Pat Hunt and Stan McKenzie
while they inspected the restoration work that had
been done up to that time. They pointed out mis-
takes that we had made and added more details
about the appearance of the ship as they remembered
her. We hope when they — and others of the 1944
crew — return to the St. Roch after the restoration
is completed that they will be able to say, “Yes, this
is pretty much the way she looked 30 years ago.”

Three years have now gone by since I began work
on the St. Roch. The end, which once seemed so
far away, is now in sight. On October 16, 1974 the
ship will be officially opened to the public. It is a
date that the late Frank Harley and I came up with
as we drove leisurely down the Nova Scotia coast to
Yarmouth for an appointment with Stan McKenzie
on a fine September day long ago. It is a date of
some significance — exactly 30 years to the day
that the St. Roch sailed into Vancouver to complete
her second voyage through the Passage. It is a date
of great anticipation, a date we have set the watches
of our working lives upon. But when that date has
passed, a reluctant historian in idle moments occa-
sionally wonders, what will our feelings be then.
What it is like at the end of a voyage?

John Beswarick Thompson is a writer/historian with
Parks Canada. His book, The More Northerly Route,
is being published this fall, by Information Canada.

a \ ik .
Primus stove, scarlet tunic and dog harness are but three
of the myriad items required for the refurbishment of the
St. Roch.

Rudy van der t

am

Duffle Coats, Klim
Tins and “I Wonder
What Became of
Sally—’

By Wayne Colwell
The Curator and the St. Roch

Le travail de conservateur chargé de la reconstitu-
tion d’un lieu n’est pas toujours aussi facile quon
pourrait le croire. Wayne Colwell nous le démontre.

De the course of being questioned for infor-
mation concerning the St. Roch and her 1944
voyage, former crewman Jim Diplock remarked “Tt
was going back a long way for small things”. His-
torian John Thompson aptly chose to use that phrase
as the title of his article on the historian’s role in the
St. Roch project. But I have no doubt that I would
have utilized Diplock’s phrase for my title if not

oS)

14

beaten to the punch by Thompson, perhaps with
even greater justification. After all, though the vet-
erans of the Passage have had to jog their memory-
banks for the details, the minutia, that surrounded
them during that historic voyage, and the historian
had to facilitate the jogging with the right questions,
the right libations, it has fallen to me, as the project’s
curator, to literally “go back a long way for small
things”, and obtain them in order to present the ves-
sel to her 1944 Northwest Passage appearance.

If asked prior to my involvement with the St.
Roch if refurnishing a structure to a relatively con-
temporary era, in this case a vessel of 1944, pre-
sented any particular problems, I’m certain my reply
would have been negative. Problems? Why? Mate-

rial of thirty years ago wasn’t much different from’:

that around today, was it? And after all, that era

is familiar to anyone, like myself, on the plus side of:,
forty. After spending almost two decades furnishing “.

and interpreting a wide variety of historic units I
would have felt I based my judgement on reasonably
firm ground.

But I was wrong. My experience had never in-
cluded anything later than an 1865 blacksmith shop.
As I became more deeply involved in the St. Roch
project, I quickly learned that a “modern” restora-
tion was a whole new ball game, and the St. Roch
was to prove to be the toughest, most difficult his-
toric refurnishing assignment I had faced. Why?
Several reasons, among which are some that at first
glance would seem to make the curator’s task easier,
whereas in actuality they added to the difficulties.

First, the very wealth of information creates prob-
lems. Unlike most other projects there were five
living veterans of the voyage to consult, plus others
somewhat less involved, taped reminiscences and an
excellent photo file compiled by the historian that
revealed much data on the vessel’s equipment. And
then there was the ship itself, with some items still
on board from 1944. All 19th century projects I had
been involved in might have had an archeological
report, a skimpy equipment list, with luck a para-
graph or two of a contemporary description. But
mostly, lots of educated (we hope) guesses were em-
ployed on what a typical residence, craft shop, or
what have you, looked like at a given time. The
large amount of known data on the St. Roch left
almost no opportunity to go this route. We weren’t
refurbishing a typical arctic patrol vessel, we were
redoing the St. Roch. Take the radio shack for ex-
ample. The former radio man, Lloyd Russill, had

Stan McKenzie and Wayne Colwell discuss the fur-
nishing of the reconstructed bunkhouse.

been interviewed on several occasions and he de-
scribed his cabin and its equipment quite thorough-
ly. We also had a list of the wireless equipment as-
signed to the vessel. Therefore I couldn’t be satisfied
obtaining typical gear of the war years, I had to
locate a Marconi 3V-SW-5 emergency receiver, a
Marconi 200 main transmitter, and Russill even
drew up a sketch of what his own personal radio
looked like that year — though unable to remember,
unfortunately, the make, year, or model. And the
same held true for the rest of his cabin, in fact the
rest of the ship. Not only did several of the vets re-
call lots of bottles of lime juice — but that the bot-
tles were large (32 oz.) and the brand was Mont-
serrat! There went my chance to utilize a competitive
brand of Rose’s Lime Juice with bottles and labels
still available.

A second reason that makes a fairly contemporary
restoration contribute to a curatorial headache can

Dave Cla

be laid at the door of the Industrial Revolution it-
self. As the time period to be interpreted approaches
our own era, there becomes far less use of the hand
crafted artifact, and greater employment of assembly
line factory made items — ones that become in-
creasingly more difficult to reproduce. And a 1944
restoration is made up virtually 100% of items turn-
ed out by a sophisticated complex technology. Ex-
ample: In the course of equipping the circa 1860's
blacksmith shop at Lower Fort Garry I was able to
have much of the needed tools and other items hand-
forged by a smith. But banks of glass jar batteries for
the vessel’s power plant or any of the mentioned
radio gear are not produced on a blacksmith’s anvil.

A third reason, related closely to the above is that
even as the level of sophistication of manufactured
goods increases at a dizzying pace, throw-away rate
also increases perhaps even faster. Models change,
new packaging, new labels, replace those of last
year. Again using the wireless gear as an example,
not much thirty-year-old equipment is still in use.
Supplanted, the bulk of it has been junked by now.
And even the wireless collector buffs tend to acquire
the truly early gear; not the mass-produced wartime
stuff.

Then again, when a great deal of data is avail-
able, problems arise in reconciling differences that
occur between the varied sources. We find that not
in all instances do the surviving crew members agree.
One might insist that the bunk curtains were brown
and yellow striped; another that they were green and
cream.

Conservation technicians working
to refurnish the St. Roch for her
October 16th debut.

Luigi Dalgrande restores a ship’s
washbasin while Stephen Duffield
fills bench cushions and Alois
Luzecky assembles folding stools.

Rudy van der Ham

Despite the many difficulties in acquiring, or
having reproduced, the hundreds of different items
needed for the St. Roch, slowly but surely the pieces
of the jigsaw are falling into place. Grey naval duffle
coats were located in a Toronto surplus store, the
wartime life-jackets required were discovered, after
much fruitless searching of maritime museums, for-
mer manufacturers, and yacht clubs, in a Yarmouth
ship chandler’s warehouse, buried under piles of dis-
carded marine gear.

“KLIM”, Borden’s famous powdered dairy pro-
duct (“that’s MILK spelled backwards”) was remem-
bered well by the crew. No longer produced in
Canada, the famous old brown, yellow, and white
lithographed-on-tin label has all but disappeared —
dead as the dodo. Though this endangered species 1s
still produced in Ireland, a check with the firm re-
vealed that, yes, foiled again, they redesigned both
the tin and the label several years ago. “Our” tin is
no longer available.

So the search goes on. And if you’ve “Wondered
What Became of Sally”, a recent phone conversation
with Lloyd Russill elicited — we thrive on detail —
the fact that among the old 78 RPM records carried
on the voyage was one by that title, and it was Skip-
per Henry Larsen’s favorite. Anyone know the
whereabouts of such a disc?

Wayne Colwell is a curator with the Conservation and
Curatorial Service of Parks Canada.

\O

1

18

Tom Hall -

A typical view of the snow peaked Mackenzie mountains seen from the river.

Tom Kovacs nous raconte les péripéties de sa des-
cente de 780 milles du fleuve Mackenzie, entre Fort
Simpson et Inuvik, dans les Territoires du Nord-

Ouest.

ired of the same campgrounds and resorts each
summer?

Traffic on our recreational roads getting you
down?

Try something different for your next holiday.
There are still many opportunities in this country to
learn, to see and to experience the unusual.

One such opportunity presented itself as part of
the 1973 Parks Canada field program. The assign-
ment: trace the route of Alexander Mackenzie down

the river that bears his name. Purpose: to examine
the possibility of the river playing a part in future
Parks Canada programs.

Our trip, of course, bore no more than a super-
ficial resemblance to that of the famous Scottish
explorer. We travelled in a 31-foot flat-bottomed
scow powered by two 20-horsepower kickers and
followed a safe path in a well marked shipping chan-
nel. Physical hardship was at a minimum; proper
clothing, convenience food, warm sleeping bags and
dry tents provided relative comfort.

19

20

We arrived in Fort Simpson on August 12. Due
to begin the river journey on the 14th, there was
plenty of time before departure to look around and
talk to people. It is a busy place, the settlement
changing so rapidly that long-time residents no
longer feel at home in it.

Albert Faille is 85. No longer able to set out on
his annual pilgrimage to the South Nahanni in search
of the lost gold mine, he lives in a small cabin facing
the Mackenzie River.

During the hour we spent with him, he spoke of
the distant past when he was the first white man to
reach Virginia Falls and the first to get above, to stay
up and to come out alive. Although in all the trying
years he never found gold, he is a man at peace with
himself. Calm and dignified, almost saintly in ap-
pearance, he is content with his contribution to the
colour, history and culture of this land.

Meeting him is like coming face-to-face with times
long passed; a humbling and moving experience.

August 14

We cast off at 10.30 a.m. It had rained and the
wind was up. Two miles out of Fort Simpson, going

Impressive Bear Rock as seen from the Mackenzie near Fort Norman

full throttle on the sheltered side of the river, a bald
eagle passed us flying into the wind.

The many cabins along the banks are used by
Indians for fishing in the summer and trapping in
the winter.

By noon we got our first glimpse of the Mackenzie
Mountains. Only 60 miles out and we were cold and
wet through from wind and spray. We stopped for
tea at a small abandoned cabin. Despite its leaky
roof it was more comfortable than being outside
and we decided to spend the night. Our supper of
dehydrated food was not well received.

August 15

If the river had seemed hostile last night, it was
twice as angry today. The scow got turned around
and had to be unloaded and dragged into a sheltered
creek a few hundred yards from its moorings.

A band of light between the dark clouds raised
our hopes for a turn in the weather which did not
materialize until after 6 p.m.

Most of the day was spent on housekeeping
chores. So far the trip seems more like a survival
course than a planning exercise.

August 16

We were on the river by 8 a.m. It had stopped
raining but the wind was still strong. Within an hour
we were into Camsell Bend and looking for the en-
trance to the South Nahanni. When we found it,
entry was impossible as the mouth was clogged with
driftwood and the water too low.

The riverscape with the snow-capped Mackenzie
Range looming above it, is spectacular. The scenery
is just as attractive further north and many potential
campsites were noted. Near the mouth of the Root
River there was abundant evidence of large game —
wolf, bear and moose tracks everywhere.

We made a quick run in high winds for Willowlake
River. There, we stopped at a tiny settlement occu-
pied by only a few families. The cabins are imma-
culate, attractively decorated with old photographs,
calendars, snowshoes and rifles.

We gratefully accepted the offer of coffee in this
lovely setting — undoubtedly one of the most beau-
tiful we have so far seen.

We camped well before 6 p.m. on a wide, level
sand beach, two miles down river from Wrigley.
Two fellows in a square-stern fiberglass canoe with-
out a kicker arrived. Fed up after 13 days on the

river, they wanted to give away their canoe. They
found a taker and departed on the first flight south
from the Wrigley airstrip.

We have covered 82 miles today and have started
to gel as a crew.

August 17

We rose early and went into Wrigley to pick up
fresh supplies at the Bay store, mail letters and film,
and to check in with the R.C.M.P. to let them know
we had made it safely so far.

Down river about 85 miles, we stopped at two
old cabins near the mouth of the Blackwater River.
Structurally sound, their innards had been ransacked
by souvenir hunters. We wondered who had lived
there and why they had chosen that lovely but lonely
spot. We might have found out, as there is a grave
located in the nearby woods which we did not see
until we had cast off and were on our way again.

The sunny afternoon cheered our spirits and we
pushed past Old Fort Barrow to set up camp a few
miles short of Fort Norman.

It has been a pleasant 120-mile day, but the heavy
commercial traffic on the river has destroyed our
illusion of wilderness. Along with the tugs and

22

One of the many aban- ¥
doned cabins along the #j@
rivers of the north ix

Welcome rest stop at Ochre River
—left to right, Gilles Robitaille,
Keith Thompson, Sonny Ville-
neuve (pilot)

barges we have learned to expect, a large hovercraft
passed us late in the afternoon. Its roar could be
heard long after it had disappeared around a turn
in the river.

August 18

After a very cold night, we were up with the sun
to set out for Fort Norman. Heralded by Bear Rock,
it is an impressive sight with the mountains as a
backdrop.

Handicrafts in Fort Norman were plentiful, attrac-
tive and inexpensive. The settlement is off the well-
trodden tourist path and local craftsmen are not yet
demanding competitive prices for their products.

We had seen plenty of evidence, but no actual big
game until this afternoon, when we glimpsed a large

brown bear lazing about near the shore. Unfortu-
nately it disappeared before we could take any decent
pictures.

Just 20 miles short of Norman Wells it began to
rain but we pressed on and got thoroughly soaked
in the process. We bought 10 kegs of gas and grate-
fully took the last vacant room at the hotel. A group
of Indians from Wrigley on their way to the Nor-
thern Games were not so lucky and had to spend
the night on the beach in a makeshift camp.

Norman Wells is not an attractive place, with
abandoned machinery lying about almost every-
where. Nevertheless, we stayed a second night to do
a laundry as the river was too wild for us to proceed.

Some impressions of the river so far — scenically,
far more beautiful than expected; a wilderness ex-
perience only in parts; its potential lies in motorized
boating.

August 20

Weather looked great north of the Wells and we
left early with some fresh fish to relieve us of the
freeze-dried rations.

It is a real joy to be on the river in nice weather.
We observed that the best views are to the east and
not to the west as expected.

We passed by an increasing number of oil drums
left behind on the river bank and stopped for lunch
before shooting the Sans Sault Rapids. We were a
bit let down as the rapids, though interesting, are
neither spectacular nor demanding, as long as the
boat is kept within a well marked channel.

We took a good fast run down the Ramparts to
Fort Good Hope which was hosting the Northern
Games this year. We caught the tail-end of the fes-

An outstanding example of primitive art from the mural tivities and watched the men’s and women’s rope-
of Our Lady of Good Hope church at Fort Good Hope

pulling finals. It was good to see all the happy faces
as the participants engaged in friendly competition.

We also took in the stunning murals of the church,
Our Lady of Good Hope; exquisite examples of
primitive art.

We had already covered 121 miles, but took ad-
vantage of the longer daylight of the north to get in
a couple of more hours on the river before making
camp at | a.m.

August 21

Weather still great and the fresh bannock for
breakfast delightful. This was the first day that the
wind has been with us, its speed matching the scow’s.
It is an odd sensation to travel at 15 miles an hour
and face no wind. The high banks and rolling hills
of the Travillant Lake area is attractive but there is
no doubt that we are getting further north as the

Women finalists in the rope-pulling contest at the 1973 Northern Games at Fort Good Hope

ZS cma

24

vegetation is changing to black spruce, aspen and
willows with occasional patches of tundra.

We had hoped to equal yesterday’s mileage in
order to reach Arctic Red River today but stopped
at Pierre Creek just 20 miles short of our goal.
Lucky that we did, as a flash thunderstorm came up
in the evening which would have driven us off the
river.

August 22

Our campfire smouldered all night despite the
heavy downpour. Burning in earnest when we
awoke, it illustrated how easily forest fires are started.

We fought huge waves in the downwind stretches
to reach the Arctic Red River where we decided that
we had enough gas to reach Inuvik and pushed on.
We managed to stay fairly dry and comfortable in the
high winds and waves until we reached Point Separa-
tion where the river splits into its numerous channels
at the base of the delta. Lacking the protection of
the river banks here, we faced the full force of the
storm.

We passed a couple of canoeists stroking hard
and bravely riding the waves. They refused our offer
of a tow to safety.

We bottomed the scow in a particularly shallow
stretch but were fortunate in not damaging the en-
gines. We built a huge fire and burned our backsides
trying to get warm and dry out.

We passed the canoeists later valiantly carrying
on. They had at least a day and a half of travel
ahead of them.

We stopped only once more, at Rocky Hill where
the flat, heavily wooded delta meets a unique hard-
rock outcrop. An hour later we had completed the
most gruelling day of the expedition, tying up at
Inuvik.

We have covered 780 miles of the Mackenzie
River in nine days.

Boating down the Mackenzie was a working trip
for us but it was immensely rewarding on both a pro-
fessional as well as a personal level. The river and its
people are an experience I won’t forget.

Tom Kovacs is a Park System Planner with Parks Canada.

On Hearing Of The Death
Of Albert Faille

Tom Kovacs

You fought the furious river

Scaled the back-breaking trail

First whiteman to get above the falls
First there to survive and stay

Alone in the unyielding mountains
You doggedly searched for gold
Loser of forty-some battles

You kept coming back for more

Old man, Red Pants, dreamer

No more will you sail the river of hope
Ina frail craft with a stout heart

For never-to-be treasures

Rest your tired body

Your search was never in vain
For your spirit has touched us all
In an indelible way

Médaille du lieutenant N. Duchesnay des V olti-
geurs canadiens, émise en 1848 et distribuée aux
survivants des batailles entre 1793 et 1814
(Parcs Canada)

Charles de Salaberry has long been held in esteem as
one of the major heroes of Québec. Yvon Desloges, a
historian with Parks Canada, reexamines de Salaber-
ry in his role as hero in light of a new assessment of
the political, economic and social climate of his time.

6 harles-Michel de Salaberry a occupé dans his-
toire traditionnelle une place de choix, un piédestal
de héros par sa participation au combat de la Cha-
teauguay, le 26 octobre 1813. Plusieurs historiens
racontent qu’a la téte de 300 hommes et d’une poi-
gnée d’Indiens, il aurait repoussé de 4,000 a 7,000
Américains, sans toutefois nous faire connaitre exac-
tement ces forces d’invasion.

Puisant méme a histoire grecque, certains l’ont
qualifié de “Léonidas canadien”, ayant sauvé aux
“Thermopyles” le Bas-Canada. Devons-nous accep-
ter cette version des faits?

Cherchons 4a décrire cet épisode, a définir le role
que Salaberry y a joué et a expliquer l’interpréta-
tion traditionnelle.

Charles-Michel de Salaberry

Né en 1778, il est le fils de Louis-Antoine de Sala-
berry, seigneur de Beauport; de ce fait, il est lie
aux grandes familles de l’époque. A lage de 14 ans,
il s’engage, sous la protection du duc de Kent, dans
Yinfanterie britannique. Salaberry est d’abord en
garnison 4 Québec, puis passe aux Antilles. En
1796, il est recu maitre-macon dans les loges; ceci
n’a rien de surprenant lorsqu’ on sait que les mili-
taires et presque tous les seigneurs de l’epoque fai-
saient partie de ce qui n’était qu’une association
patriotique.

Aprés avoir combattu aux Antilles, en Sicile et en
Irlande, Salaberry rentre au Canada en aout 1810,
aprés une absence de 16 ans. La population l’ac-
cueille comme un militaire chevronné. L’ agitation

politique, causée par les réactions de Craig, telles la
fermeture du journal Le Canadien et l’emprisonne-
ment de Bédard, est tres grande. Le successeur de
Craig, le gouverneur Prévost, tentant d’apaiser les
esprits, demande a Salaberry de lever parmi ses com-
patriotes un corps d’élite: les Voltigeurs canadiens.

Le combat et les forces en présence

C’est le combat de la Chateauguay qui confére a
Salaberry ses titres de noblesse, du moins en ce qui
concerne notre histoire traditionnelle. Mais que se
passe-t-il sur les rives de la Chateauguay, le 26 octo-
bre 1813? Les Américains sous les ordres de Hamp-
ton et de Izard marchent sur Montréal en passant par
la Chateauguay; ils tentent de rejoindre le général
Wilkinson a la hauteur de lile Perrot. Les Américains
sont plus puissants, militairement, car ils disposent
d'une artillerie de campagne et d’une unité de cava-
lerie. Mais le refus des miliciens de traverser la fron-
titre, la fatigue, le froid et les conditions du terrain

Charles-Michel de Salaberry, minia-
ture, vers 1S15 (Chateau de Ramezay,
Montréal. Photo, Musée de guerre)

forcent une bonne partie de l’armée d’invasion (dont
lartillerie et la cavalerie) a rester a l’arriére-plan. Du
coté canadien, avec les réserves, Salaberry dispose
d@environ 1,500 hommes. Fait intéressant a souli-
gner, il écrira a son pére que les forces américaines
sont équivalentes.

Salaberry fait construire un abattis au ravin Bryson
et dispose ses troupes sur six lignes, dont deux pro-
tegent les passages a gué Grant et Morrison. L’armée
américaine déplace son avant-garde. La veille, Purdy
et un groupe d’Américains avaient traversé sur la rive
sud, dans l’obscurité, afin de contourner les positions
canadiennes et de les prendre a revers. A l’aube, ils
n’ont pas beaucoup progressé, Les Canadiens Daly et
Brugieres traversent la riviére et surprennent l’avant-
garde de Purdy qui doit se replier. Il y a manque de
communication entre les deux corps d’armée améri-
cains. En entendant des coups de feu sur la rive sud,
Hampton avance ses troupes; aprés quelques volées,
les Canadiens ripostent, tout en utilisant les cris des

Indiens et le son des clairons. De la rive nord, ils
tirent ensuite sur les troupes de Purdy. C’est la dé-
route; les Américains retraitent.

Hampton a-t-il vraiment voulu livrer bataille? Ses
troupes sont fatiguées, car leur marche avait été en-
travée du fait que Salaberry avait fait couper tous les
ponts. De plus, ce dernier connaissait bien la topo-
graphie de la région, car il y était passé quelques
semaines plus tot; enfin, il avait eu quelques jours
pour préparer sa défense et choisir l’endroit le plus
propice.

Contexte économique et politique

Dés le lendemain du combat, Salaberry est acclamé
comme un “héros” dans les journaux de l’époque.
L’événement prend une ampleur qui se transmettra
a notre héritage historique. La victoire de Chateau-
guay est celle des Canadiens frangais qui composent
environ 90% des troupes de Salaberry. L’enrolement
de miliciens canadiens-franc¢ais résulte de deux fac-
teurs. Au point de vue politique, les Canadiens fran-
cais se doivent de prouver leur loyauté au gouverneur
Prévost, qui s’est montré beaucoup plus conciliant
que Craig sous l’administration duquel les membres
des professions libérales et les marchands anglopho-
nes avaient connu de graves affrontements.

D’autre part, au point de vue économique, le Bas-
Canada connait une récession; il y a crise agricole,
alors que 80% de la population est rurale; cette crise
provoque un excédent de main-d’ceuvre, surtout dans
la construction navale. Or, les conditions de recrute-
ment des miliciens sont généreuses; dans la milice
incorporée, le milicien regoit huit piastres par mois
en plus de l’uniforme et de Ja nourriture. Quant aux
Voltigeurs, ils regoivent la solde d’un régulier britan-
nique de méme que nourriture et vétements; de plus,
Salaberry leur promet officieusement une terre (ce que
le Conseil Législatif confirmera en 1816). La lutte
contre le républicanisme y joue également un role.

Pour les seigneurs, parmi lesquels se recrutent les
officiers subalternes, la victoire d’un des leurs les

GBB Troupes canadiennes
(—] Troupes ameéricaines
a3 Abattis

—— Route

Position des troupes, Forét
‘ \ Marecages
lors de la bataille.

remplit d’une immense fierté. Ce groupe peut ainsi
raffermir son prestige sur ’échiquier politique, pres-
tige qu'il a perdu lors de la montée des professions
libérales. Sil ne peut reprendre son rdle, il pourra
tout au moins faire peser son influence auprés des
dirigeants britanniques.

En s’adressant a Salaberry, Prévost comptait faire
dune pierre deux coups: s’assurer des services d’un
fin stratége et recevoir une réponse favorable dans le
recrutement de miliciens car Salaberry jouissait d’une
forte popularité aupreés de la population. Ainsi la po-
pulation francaise du Bas-Canada redore son blason
aupres des marchands anglophones.

Par ailleurs, “élite” y trouve aussi son profit; a la
suite de “sa” victoire, elle se rapproche des dirigeants
britanniques et de leurs bienfaits. Elle entrevoit méme
la renaissance d’un régime aristocratique qui lui avait
été si profitable au 18e siecle. De plus, la victoire de
Chateauguay permet au Bas-Canada et notamment
aux marchands anglophones de respirer plus a laise.

Salaberry et la société bas-canadienne
Dés la fin de la guerre, Salaberry se retire dans sa
seigneurie de Chambly; celle-ci ne rapportant que
trés peu, il doit envisager un poste plus rémunéra-
teur. Il recherche les honneurs; en février 1814, le
Conseil Législatif lui vote des remerciements. En fé-
vrier 1816, il est fait compagnon de l’Ordre du Bain.

Salaberry veut succéder a son beau-peére, M. de
Rouville, au Conseil Législatif; or la loi anglaise in-
terdit au pére et au fils de siéger en méme temps au
Conseil. Parrainé par monseigneur Plessis, il y acce-
dera en 1818. Considérant cette nomination comme
un honneur, il assiste peu aux séances, Ce nest qu’en
1822 qu'il y joue un réle, en sopposant au projet
d’Union; choisi comme délégué a Londres, il se de-
siste A cause de sa santé et recommande Louis-Joseph
Papineau. II participe aussi au Conseil d’administra-
tion de la compagnie du canal de Chambly. Il meurt
le26tevrier S29.

Ravin Bryson
my Se

7

“Ny

Gue
Grant

(AcE Cy)

Heéroisme social et politique

Mais peut-on parler d’héroisme dans I’Episode de
Chateauguay? La définition académique nous rap-
pelle qu’un héros est un personnage qui se distingue
par des vertus ou des actions extraordinaires. Qu’a
fait Salaberry 4 Chateauguay? Il a su déployer ses
troupes et agencer un systeme de défense cohérent.
Mais il n’était pas au front lorsque les Américains
commencent a tirer; il n’arrive que par la suite. Il
fait retraiter les Américains en faisant sonner les
trompettes mais McDonnell a l’arriére y fait sa part.
C’est aussi la sortie du capitaine Daly, sur la rive sud,
qui empéche les Américains de contourner les posi-
tions canadiennes. En sachant ces faits, Salaberry
peut-il encore étre considéré comme un héros?

Il ne s’agit donc plus d’héroisme militaire mais
plutét d’héroisme social et politique, si expression
est permise. Salaberry est la plaque tournante de
l’épisode de la Chateauguay. D’une part, il agit com-
me catalyseur entre les marchands anglophones et la
population francophone, de l’autre comme tremplin

28 politique a lélite de l’époque.

Officier des Voltigeurs canadiens,
1813 (Aquarelle de
Derek FitzJames, Parcs Canada)

La naissance d’un mythe

A la lueur de ces faits, nous constatons que nos
historiens ne se sont jamais arrétés pour analyser la
signification profonde de l’épisode de Chateauguay;
ils se contentaient de colporter ce que nos ancétres
leur avaient raconté ou ne consultaient que la docu-
mentation apte a nourrir le mythe qu ils entretenaient.
La “canonisation” d’un personnage tel Salaberry est-
elle nécessaire? Faire de l’histoire qui soit a la portée
de tous et chanter l’épopée du pays sont-ils les seuls
buts poursuivis? La puissance du patriotisme ne ser-
virait-elle pas plutét 4 promouvoir lidéologie a la-
quelle on appartient, en puisant du passé les hommes
dont on veut voir prolonger l’action et les idées?
histoire traditionnelle nous démontre le besoin que
ressent un peuple de perpétuer une tradition héroique,
lui permettant de subir une situation économique et
politique dans laquelle son réle est efface.

L’auteur est recherchiste en histoire, Parcs Canada.

el cao

Amor de Cosmos

He was a prospector, newspaper editor, premier of
British Columbia — yet his memory lingers as the man
who changed his name.

Born William Alexander Smith, at Windsor, Nova Scotia
in 1825, his dreams of glory carried him to the California
Gold Rush at the age of 24 . . . along with hundreds of
other Bill Smiths. So he became Amor de Cosmos — lover
of the universe.

His wanderings took him to British Columbia and in
1856 he founded a newspaper, the still thriving Victoria
Colonist.

Wielding an acid pen, Amor de Cosmos was a vigorous
critic of the colonial government. “It’s too late to stop men
thinking,” he declared, urging responsible government.
The man with the mystical name took to politics, be-
coming a member of the legistlature. He fought for con-

federation with Canada — on British Columbia’s terms
— which included a railway link to the east. When the
Pacific colony joined the Dominion in 1871 , he was a
delegate to the federal parliament in Ottawa.

In 1872, Amor de Cosmos became the second premier of
British Columbia but his political star was short-lived. A
land-speculation scandal extinguished it at the age of 48.
During his remaining 25 years, he was one of Victoria’s
characters. He walked the streets in full morning dress
sporting a cane. He drank to excess. Never married, he
became a recluse, afraid of electricity. He was finally
judged insane.

On July 4, 1897, the lover of the universe who helped to
make British Columbia a part of Canada, died.

In the provincial legislature in Victoria, a plaque, erected
by the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada,
recalls the career of Amor de Cosmos — the man who
changed his name.

DONALDSON, GORDON.

BATTLE FOR A CONTINENT QUEBEC 1759.
Doubleday Canada Limited, Toronto, Ontario.
(Doubleday & Company, Inc., Garden City, New
York). 1973, 241 p. illustrations.

Ce livre présente une version populaire des événements
de Québec de 1759. L’auteur trace, entre autres, un
tableau des différents acteurs de la Conquéte, esquisse la
situation de la Nouvelle-France au dix-huitiéme siécle,
rappelle quelques batailles qui ont précédé 1759, parle
bri¢vement de la vie militaire de l’€poque, retrace le siege
de Québec et les deux batailles subséquentes et tente,
dans un paragraphe ou deux, de rattacher le drame de la
Conquéte au Québec contemporain.

Bien que cet ouvrage n’apporte a peu prés rien de nou-
veau sur cet important chapitre de notre histoire, tant au
niveau des faits que de leur interprétation, auteur a su
capter et exploiter habilement certains personnages ou
épisodes qui plairont au grand public. Les exploits de
Radisson et des Groseilliers (Squire of the Gooseberries)
souléveront la curiosité historique de plusieurs. Mais il

y aun danger de toujours revenir sur certains tristes per-
sonnages dont la bande a Bigot le voleur, de la Pompa-
dour ou de sa digne représentante 4 Québec, la Péean. A
force de toujours répéter les mémes rengaines, il devient
difficile de faire la part des choses entre la vérité et la
fantaisie.

La description quelque peu sommaire que l’auteur nous
sert de la situation politique des colonies du Saint-Laurent
d’avant 1759 s’inspire plutét de l’interprétation histor1-
que de la fin du siécle dernier. On doit apporter des

nuances sur l’esprit de la loi et sur sa pratique sous le ré-
gime “totalitaire” présenté par l’auteur que les Canadiens
du dix-huiti¢me siecle n’auraient certes pas toléré. D’ail-
leurs, un coup d’oeil rapide sur la bibliographie nous
montre que l’auteur aurait eu avantage a consulter des
ouvrages de plus récente date sur la Nouvelle-France. On
n’a qu’a lire les instructions annuelles du Roi aux gou-
verneurs pour voir que le Souverain était beaucoup plus
intéressé 4 administrer en bon pére de famille plutdt
qu’en tyran.

De toute fagon, cette partie du livre ne sert qu’a préparer
le lecteur aux événements les plus importants de 1759.
Heureusement, cet épisode de notre histoire a déja été
traité ailleurs et personnellement, je préfére l’explication
que nous a laissée Vhistorien C. P. Stacey.

A la toute fin du livre, l’auteur tente, dans une page, de
résumer l’évolution du Canada francais depuis 1759
jusqu’a nos jours. C’est peut-étre 1a une fagon d’assurer
une certaine actualité 4 son ouvrage, mais il aurait eu
lieu de se pencher plus sérieusement sur ces deux siécles
Vhistoire du Canada frangais.

En plus des illustrations, on retiendra particulierement
les descriptions touchant la vie interne du camp militaire,
les rivalités entre officiers, par exemple, entre Wolfe et
Townshend, et surtout les antécédents des grandes fa-
milles d’épée en Angleterre.

Bref ce livre, inspiré du roman historique, est tres bien
présenté et saura trouver la faveur du grand public.

Louis Richer
Recherches historiques
Parcs Canada

30

GODFREY, W. EARL.
ENCYCLOPEDIE DES OISEAUX DU QUEBEC.
Volume 3 de L’Encyclopédie de ! Homme, Montréal,
Les Editions de !Homme, 1972. 663 pages. Illus-
trations de John A. Crosby, adaptation de Henri
Ouellet. Index.

L’Encyclopédie des oiseaux du Québec de W. Earl God-
frey est une adaptation de I’excellent ouvrage “Les
oiseaux du Canada’, du méme auteur, paru chez L’Im-
primeur de la Reine en 1967. On y a tout simplement rete-
nu les textes et illustrations se rapportant aux oiseaux du
Québec et remplacé la section sur l’aire de distribution

au Canada par une nouvelle section spécifique-au Québec.
Les illustrations ont été réagencées et bon nombre de
celles qui apparaissent en couleurs dans “Les oiseaux du
Canada” sont ici reproduites en noir et blanc. Les repro-

ductions en couleurs sont souvent de fort mauvaise qua-
lité, la densité des couleurs n’étant pas respectée et le
repérage trés mauvais, ce qui nous laisse avec des con-
tours dédoublés. L’identification des oiseaux s’avérera
ainsi trés difficile, sinon impossible.

On semble avoir voulu publier un volume d’un format
pratique, facilement transportable en poche lors d’excur-
sions sur le terrain. Malheureusement cette brique ne
remplit pas ces objectifs. C’est un ouvrage trop volumi-
neux qui se tient mal entre les mains et qui se feuillette
également mal.

Dans ces conditions, l’achat d’un exemplaire, “Les
oiseaux du Canada” a $12.50 m’apparait comme un
meilleur investissement.

Pierre DesMeules

Chef,

Division de la recherche appliquée
Parcs Canada.

RUMILLY, ROBERT.

HISTOIRE DE LA PROVINCE DE QUEBEC,
Home):

LOUIS RIEL. Fides, Montréal, 1973. 313 pages,
Index, Illustrations.

C’est dans le cadre de la réédition du monumental ou-
vrage de Robert Rumilly sur Vhistoire de la province de
Québec qu’est paru en 1973 le cinquieme tome intitulé
Louis Riel. L’édition originale datant de 1941, il nous
apparait utile pour le bénéfice des lecteurs d’en faire une
bréve analyse. Le titre de ’ouvrage est plutét trompeur
puisque M. Rumilly accorde seulement le tiers de son
volume a Riel. Les 200 derniéres pages sont en effet con-
sacrées au Parti national et a Mercier, ce qui, en un sens,
nest pas nécessairement une erreur puisque ces deux
sujets ont été intimement liés a l’affaire Riel. Nous analy-
serons toutefois la partie qui traite précis¢ment du

chef métis.

Il ne faut pas s’attendre a trouver dans ce volume un récit
détaillé de ce quis’est passé dans l'Ouest en 1885. L’au-
teur a plutot mis l’accent sur les réactions au Québec face
ala rébellion et a sa répression. En ce sens, il est demeuré
fidéle au cadre général de son oeuvre qui est l’histoire

de la province de Québec.

M. Rumilly passe rapidement sur les événements qui ont
précédé la capture de Riel alors que l’opinion publique
québécoise, mal informée, se partageait entre deux pdles
représentés par la Minerve du coté ultramontain et
VElecteur du coté libéral qui accusait le gouvernement
fédéral de tous les maux.

L’emprisonnement de Riel et la possibilité qu’il soit pendu
marque toutefois, selon l’auteur, un réveil en masse de
Vopinion publique: “Ce fut, au pays du Québec, comme
sila foudre était tombée sur chaque maison”. A compter
de cet instant, M. Rumilly suit au jour le jour l’évolution

des événements. II nous fait voir comment le sentiment
général, au départ partagé, se range de plus en plus der-
riére Riel pour demander au gouvernement de le gracier.
Il profite également de l’occasion pour passer ses idées
personnelles sur la question: le gouvernement fédéral, par
son refus d’entendre les requétes des Métis, est respon-
sable de la rébellion; une fois la sentence de mort rendue
par le jury, l’affaire Riel devient une bataille de races,
comme ce fut le cas en 1837; la vie de Riel a été sacrifiée
aux intéréts des partis politiques. Rumilly se pose donc
en défenseur de Riel en qui il voit un “mystique dévieé”’.
Selon nous, l’auteur a visé juste dans ses conclusions.

Au chapitre des critiques, on peut reprocher a l’auteur de
ne pas avoir insisté sur le fait qu’en 1885, le choc des
civilisations était inévitable et qu’en ce sens, Riel devenait
la victime d’un contexte plutot que V’instigateur des trou-
bles. On pourrait également reprocher a M. Rumilly
d’intercaler dans son texte des passages qui cadrent assez
mal dans l’ensemble de I’étude (asiles, division du diocese
de Trois-Riviéres . . .). Peut-étre faudrait-il attribuer ce
défaut au souci de l’auteur de n’oublier aucun détail.

Par contre, l’ouvrage de M. Rumilly a le mérite de mieux
nous faire connaitre le visage de certains hommes poli-
tiques de l’époque, en particulier de Chapleau ce ministre
qui n’était plus “ministre de la province de Québec, mais
de tout le Canada”. La conclusion de l’auteur dénote

de l’amertume et méme un reproche a l’égard du compor-
tement de quelques chefs de file canadiens-frangais dans
l’affaire Riel: “Les plus patriotes des représentants de la
province de Québec, devenus ministres a Ottawa, ont
rapidement cessé de penser en Canadiens frangais pour
penser en Canadiens tout court, voire en hommes d’Etat
britanniques”’.

Jean-Pierre Proulx
Recherches historiques
Parcs Canada

Published by Parks Canada under the authority of
the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
©Information Canada, Ottawa, 1974

INA Publication No. QS-1241-020-BB-A1
Design: John Ball Graphic Arts Service Ltd.

Conservation Canada is a quarterly publication
Editors: Sheila Crutchlow, Martin Filion
Production: Eric Plummer

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.

Translations of articles in the other official language are
available on request from The Editor, Conservation Canada,
Information Services, Department of Indian and Northern
Affairs, Ottawa, K1A OH4.

Indian and

iv

Northern Affairs
Parks Canada

Priidu Juurand

Publié par Parcs Canada avec l’autorisation

de hon. Judd Buchanan, cP, députe,

ministre des Affaires indiennes et du Nord.
©Information Canada, Ottawa, 1974

Publication AIN N° QS-1241-020-BB-A1
Présentation: John Ball Graphic Arts Service Ltd.

Publication trimestrielle.
Rédaction: Martin Filion, Sheila Crutchlow

Production: Eric Plummer

On peut reproduire les articles en mentionnant
leur provenance.

On peut se procurer des versions anglaises ou frangaises des
articles parus dans ce numéro en s’adressant au Rédacteur,
Conservation Canada, Services de Information, Ministere
des Affaires indiennes et du Nord, Ottawa, K1A 0H4.

Affaires indiennes
et du Nord

Parcs Canada

oy)

11g uyor ap aiydnssojoyd :ainjsaanog
livg “yor &q ojoyd saaog

.

Be

AS wesee it...

Un mot de
la rédaction....

QO, all the Canadian provinces, Saskatchewan is
probably the least understood and the most ma-
ligned. In addition to the callous references to ‘flat’,
‘treeless’ and ‘uninteresting’, the prairies have
borne the brunt of a number of distressing geo-
physical clichés.

In this issue of Conservaticn Canada, we are
pleased to pay tribute to that great trapezoid in our
midst. The Last of the Great Grasslands by Claude
Mondor examines the past and future potential of
the great Canadian plains while Legend and Land-
scape by Colleen Snipper and Margaret Amoroso
paints a vivid portrait of the magnificent Qu’Appelle
Valley.

Also this issue, Luce Vermette, an ethnographer
with Parks Canada analyses the importance of the
hearth and its utensils to the early Canadian home in
Feu et Lieu. As well, Francois Leblanc informs us
of some of the exciting new uses to which the com-
puter is being put by Technical Services.

To complete the issue and make winter a bit
friendlier, we have four pages of glorious scenes of
winters past.

D u domestique a l’informatique, du connu a l’ou-
blié: voila en quelques mots le ton de ce numéro.

En publiant l’article Feu et lieu de Luce Vermette,
jai d’abord voulu souligner la récente parution de
son volume Les objets familiers de nos ancétres tout
comme mettre en lumiére ces humbles serviteurs de
la maison si souvent oubliés.

Charmante guide, Luce Vermette nous fait pé-
nétrer dans une habitation de la Nouvelle-France et
nous fait connaitre, en prenant le foyer comme point
de convergence, une foule d’instruments, de plats et
d’ustensiles qui servaient a l’accomplissement de
diverses taches quotidiennes. __

Francois Leblanc, pour sa part, aborde dans le
domaine de la conservation historique, un sujet tout
contemporain: Lutilisation de lordinateur comme
outil de référence pour la restauration de batiments
historiques. Les hauts lieux de Vhistoire s’associent
aux techniques de notre époque.

Claude Mondor nous fait mieux connaitre les
Prairies et leur écologie, tandis que Colleen Snipper
et Margaret Amoroso nous révelent les beautés et
les légendes de la riviere Qu’Appelle, en Saskatche-
wan. Ce coin de pays qu’on ne connait que par des
clichés, prend un tout autre éclairage.

Enfin, la lecture des comptes rendus des volumes
de Pierre Dansereau et de Jean-Claude Marsan nous
feront réfléchir sur l’écologie, l’équilibre de la nature
et la qualité de vie en milieu urbain.

Bon hiver et agréable lecture!

Government

Publications
ONY NOv3
NO 3
1975
As we see it/Un mot de la rédaction . . . 2
Colleen Snipper A
Legend and Landscape Margaret Amoroso
The Last of the Great Grasslands Claude Mondor 11
Plus 16
Feu et Lieu Luce Vermette 20

Francois Leblanc 25

| oman Infothéque
28

Et Cetera

by Colleen Snipper and
Margaret Amoroso

Tom Searth Each panorama of the Qu’Appelle Valley is a new discovery;
each one different, each breathtaking.

Dans le cadre dune étude du programme ARC
(Accords au sujet de la Récréation et de la Conser-
vation), les auteurs ont découvert la vallée de la
riviére Qu’ A ppelle, havre habité depuis des millénai-
res et qui a conservé ses légendes, ses lieux histori-
ques et ses attraits naturels.

“I need not try to describe the exceeding beauty
of the scene for I could not; I will merely state what
the components of the picture were... Part of the
valley in deep shade and part brightly illuminated
... The blue smoke of wigwams rising up high and
straight from the bottom of the valley. The river
with its complicated coils, gliding among the willow
bushes, to the south. The great prairie, ocean-like
with its many islands of poplar and single trees,
looking in the distance and by twilight, like becalmed
ships.”

Dawson-HInp SuRVEY EXPEDITION, 1859.

Mere than a century later little has changed in
many sections of the Qu’Appelle valley, other than
the disappearance of the wigwams. And even they
spring quickly to the imagination, prompted by the
isolated, idyllic setting.

The Qu’Appelle River winds its way sinuously
from near the elbow of the South Saskatchewan
River across the province to join the Assiniboine
River in Manitoba. At seven points along the way,
the river waters collect to form a “rosary of lakes”
as Hudson’s Bay Company employee Isaac Cowie
aptly termed them. A glacial spillway, in prehistoric
times, the valley cuts a huge swath two miles broad
and 100 to 300 feet deep across the southern prairie
landscape.

The Qu’Appelle Valley provides a magnificient
contrast to the endless rolling plains on either side
of it. At each approach to the valley the sudden drop
into it unveils a unique, breathtaking view. Velvety,
flat-topped coulees on the north side of the valley
face treed slopes on the south. The rich valley bot-
tom provides some of the area’s best farming land.
Yet at first glance the valley itself seems relatively
undisturbed by farm machines or people.

The Cree named the river katapaywie sepi. Ac-
cording to a legend, told to the Hind expedition in
1859, a lone Indian heard his name called as he
paddled on the river. His repeated responses brought
no answer and although he searched, he could not
find the caller. From that time on it was known as
the “Who Calls River”. To make the story more
intriguing to the romantic tourist, the legend has
undergone a bitter-sweet twist. The eve of his wed-
ding day, the Indian brave hears the voice of his
beloved. Upon returning to camp he learns that she
has died, calling out his name. Disbelievers, of
course, argue that it is the valley’s echoes that ex-
plain the origin of the name. Whatever the reason,
translated by the French-Canadian fur traders, the
“Who Calls” became the Qu’Appelle River.

In 1974 the ARC programme of Parks Canada
(formerly Byways and Special Places) presented a
proposal to the Saskatchewan government which
identified the Qu’Appelle Valley as part of a con-
tinuous land corridor crossing the three prairie
provinces. ARC was asked to outline areas of pos-
sible involvement in the development of the valley's
historical and recreational resources. The purpose
of our trip was to assess the present state of the val-
ley’s historical resources. During our four day trip
along the valley, we visited National and Provincial
Historic Parks, National, Provincial and local mu-
seums, churches, ethnic settlements and valley
residents.

It was a trip back into 10,000 years of history.

A solid week of rain before our arrival had turned
the secondary roads into what prairie residents term

5

Colleen Snipper

1. An elaborate stained glass window of
the New Stockholm Evangelical
Lutheran Church.

“sumbo”, i.e. mud akin to quicksand. So we were
forced to drive up on the prairie rather than along
the valley bottom; our forays into the valley being
determined by the presence of sites or good access
roads, or the happy coincidence of the two.

Last Mountain House Provincial Historic Park
was our first stop. An example of the Saskatchewan
government’s novel approach of inviting the public
to view or participate in archaeology projects, the
Last Mountain House site had been worked by a
group of skilled amateur archaeologists from
Regina.

The restored master’s house of this old Hudson’s
Bay Company outpost stands alone, sandwiched be-
tween the steep banks of Last Mountain Lake and
Highway +20. The combined effect of the cold wind
sweeping across the bald hillside, of the bare un-
furnished rooms, and of the lone student caretaker
tending the fire in the fireplace, was to turn the clock
back to the era of the fur trade and the buffalo hunt.
Situated on the edge of the plains where the great
herds of buffalo roamed, Last Mountain House was
one of the many provisioning posts established by
rival fur trade companies. Along this valley for over
a hundred years, posts of the X.Y., Northwest and
Hudson’s Bay Companies collected pemmican, a
mixture of dried flaked buffalo meat mixed with
lard, for distribution as a food staple to the northern
fur trade brigades.

Margaret Amoroso

We managed, but not without difficulty, to visit
four other fur post sites in the vicinity of the valley.
Fort Qu’Appelle, located in the resort town of the
same name between Echo and Mission Lakes, was
easy enough to find. In the 1860’s Fort Qu’Appelle
was a major Hudson’s Bay Company post in the
valley. Today at the site there is a small modern
museum and one of the original buildings, a tiny
schoolhouse. While en route to meet the rebel forces
at Batoche in 1885, General Middleton used the
schoolhouse as his office during a stay at Fort
Qu ’Appelle.

Locating the other fur trade sites in the eastern
section of the valley would have been a problem,
had it not been for the assistance of one of the
province’s most delightful “historical resources”, the
local residents. In this case it was Mr. and Mrs.
George Barker. They had come to Saskatchewan
over fifty years ago leaving behind them, in England,
the amenities —- running water, indoor plumbing,
electricity — for the rigours of prairie life. Now
retired from farming, they make their home in Spy
Hill where they are leading members of the Wol-
verine Hobby and Historical Society Museum.

We accepted the Barkers’ invitation to guide our
tour of the sites of the fur trade posts, and set out
to follow their car. Rather, we tried hard to follow
the dust cloud, our only clue to the direction the
Barkers had taken. En route, we drove along the

2. Fort Qu’ Appelle, nestling in its valley is the hub of
the fishing lakes recreational area.

Margaret Amoroso

We drove on a few miles further, across the pro-
vincial boundary, to visit Fort Ellice, a Manitoba
Historic Site. From its high hilltop location, the site
has a commanding view of the Qu’Appelle valley
and the lush Assiniboine Valley. In its day Fort
Ellice marked the end of water travel for the traders
and settlers moving west. Here they made arrange-
ments for horses and Red River carts to carry their
families and supplies along the trails fanning out
across the prairies from Fort Ellice. An officer in
charge of the first Fort Ellice writing in the late
1850’s could remember the time when the Crees,
“ _. The entire tribe who now hunt on the Qu’Ap-
pelle and South Branch would approach the Fort
to receive their supplies, to the number of 800 war-
riors, splendidly mounted, and singing their war
songs.”

Today the site doubles as a local amusement park
complete with hot dog stands, rides, grandstands,
World War II guns, and garbage everywhere. Van-
dals have completely destroyed any signs of the
original post and the graveyard the Barkers recalled
seeing to the west of the fort.

Mr. and Mrs. Barker had as well, opened Spy
3. Last Mountain House Provincial Historic Park Hill’s museum for us. It is typical of many of the
twelve museums we visited outside Regina. Most are
privately owned and operated with very little, if any,

| east bank of the beautiful valley to Cut Arm Creek, financial assistance from government. Nevertheless
| the Qu’Appelle Valley on a reduced scale. the collections still reflect the rich and varied mosaic
After a stop amid the wheat-fields on the valley of prairie life and in some instances, the eccentri-
| bottom to view the site of Fort John, we moved up cities of the curator. Almost every one of them 1s
| and out of the valley over the road to the Fort crammed from floor to ceiling, and on into the attic,
Esperance National Historic Site. Our trip came to with every object imaginable — Indian arrow-
a sudden halt —— the owner of the adjacent land had heads, tools, and quillwork; cherished china brought
ploughed and seeded the road to the site. Fortu- from Europe, butter churns, beaver hats, buffalo
nately Mr. Barker knew the back roads and a short robes, ploughs, sleighs, trading beads, hand-made
detour brought us to Fort Esperance. cradles, and in one instance, a pickled rattle snake.
Etched against the blue prairie sky and the folds There are an infinite number of Indian artifacts
of the valley’s north slope stood three white granite and many known prehistoric and historic Indian

markers. One held the plaque, the others — striking sites in the Qu’Appelle basin, but there is not a
and imaginative sculptures of a buffalo head, and a single Indian museum and only two marked sites.

stretched beaver pelt with canoes and buffalo de- However, we do see the beginnings of a movement
picted on its surfaces. They symbolized the link be- to remedy this oversight. Yet It seems easy to ac-
tween the buffalo and the fur trade along the Qu’Ap- quire a sense of that history even in the absence of
pelle valley. The detour had certainly been worth- official markers. For today 7,300 Crees, Assini-

while! boines, Saulteaux and Sioux Indians are living on re-

The historic plaque at Fort Esperance is an excellent
example of Parks Canada’s imaginative use of contem-
porary styling.

Opposite Page:

Among the several hundred species of birds which
occupy the valley, are flocks of the endangered white
pelican.

serves in the Qu’Appelle basin. During our trip to
the valley the centennary of the signing of Treaty
#4, the Qu’Appelle Treaty, was being celebrated
on the Cote Reserve. Although we didn’t see them,
we were aware that in and alongside the valley were
burial and camp sites, tipi rings, bison killsites, and
petroglyphs attesting to the continuous occupation
of the Qu’Appelle Valley for the past 10,000 years
by the ancestors of the present Indian population.
The provincial government plans to mark these sites
in the near future and in addition, has recently
initiated a comprehensive recording and evaluating
of all the prehistoric and historic sites in the valley.

According to the people with whom we spoke at
the Indian Cultural College in Saskatoon and the
Federation of Saskatchewan Indians in Regina,
there is a growing demand by Indian youth for in-
formation and instruction in their history, language,
and traditions. Their own history pervades the
Qu’Appelle Valley.

It was from the Cowesses, Kahkewistahaw, She-
sheep and Sakimay Reserves on the shore of

Margaret Amoroso

Crooked Lake that we saw what the valley must
have looked like in its pristine state, before the ar-
rival of the white settlers.

The settlers came from Hungary, Germany, Fin-
land and Sweden, to towns they named Esterhazy,
Lemberg, Tantallon, and Stockholm on the prairie
to the north of the valley. We visited a Hungarian
church south of Esterhazy and the New Stockholm
Evangelical Lutheran Church built in the midst of
meticulously kept farms on the rolling plains. The
cemeteries around these and other churches re-
vealed the area’s ethnic roots and the hardships en-
countered by young and old.

The Qu’Appelle Valley also hosted attempts at
communal or co-operative living. With the Barkers
we visited the site of the Hamona Colony in the
Qu’Appelle Valley to the west of Cut Arm Creek.
Established by the Harmony Industrial Association
in 1895, five years later the experiment had dis-
solved. Today all that remains is the pastoral set-
ting, a small orchard and the foundations of a lime
kiln that was to keep the colony financially soluble.

Tom Searth

On the other hand, a success story is about to be
re-told at the Motherwell Homestead which will be
developed over the next decade as a National His-
toric Park. It was the home of a former provincial
and federal minister of agriculture, W. R. Mother-
well, whose progressive technique in agriculture will
be demonstrated at this site. The original fieldstone
house still stands, with its large Ontario-style barn
in the back, — deserted and lonely now, but soon
to be brought back to life.

To the area south of the valley came the English
immigrants. They were a particular breed — remit-
tance men — such as the Honourable Claude Man-
ners of Spring Creek. We were told that the economy
of the area was buoyed up by the allowances sent
out to these sons of the British aristocracy. At one
time in the town of Moosomin you could determine
the day of the week by the sport being played. If it
was cricket then it must be Friday, if polo then
Saturday, and if tennis, it had to be Sunday. British
to the core, they played tennis in buffalo robes rather
than forsake the game in bad weather.

We garnered these anecdotes from Mr. Gilbert
McKay, editor of the Moosomin newspaper for over
forty years and resident historian. He joined us for
coffee one early morning to fill us in on the history
of some of the historic trails that had passed through
Moosomin and on anything else we wanted to or
should know. In fact he chauffeured us over the re-
maining six miles of the Fort Ellice-Wood Moun-
tain trail across Pipestone Creek. Mr. McKay, it
turned out, was a descendant of a remarkable family
who, in serving the Hudson’s Bay Company as
hunters, freighters, traders, clerks, postmaster and
Chief Trader, had won the respect of Indians and
Métis.

Sections of the trails that criss-crossed the prairies
and the valley are still identifiable from the ruts
made by the Red River carts. This is true of the
Fort Qu’Appelle Touchwood Hill trail north of Fort
Qu’Appelle, the Fort Ellice — Fort Qu’Appelle trail
just east of Broadview, the Fort Ellice-Wood Moun-
tain trail in Moosomin, and the Fort Ellice-Fort
Carlton trail north of Spy Hill. At Fort Qu’Appelle,
from our motel, aptly called the Valley Trails, we
could see the obvious ruts of one of the old trails on
the face of the coulee. After hiking the trail to the
top of the coulee, it was easy to pinpoint the other
trails that had converged on Fort Qu’Appelle.

10

Only the Fort Ellice-Elbow Trail, actually fol-
lowed the length of the valley. It crossed from the
south side of the valley to the north at Ellisboro.
This point in the trail in the 1870’s was known as
Racette’s Crossing named after a former Hudson’s
Bay Company employee who helped travellers ford
the river here. Before the end of the century, an
easterner, J. H. Ellis who established a store and
post office here gave the town its name.

Ellisboro is tucked away in a particularly peace-
ful part of the valley. There are not more than five
buildings in the town. The original church and
general store are still standing while another church
nestles in the trees next to the modern home of the
farmer who owns the surrounding land. The nearby
Wolseley Museum has purchased the simple frame
church and plans to re-erect it on the museum
grounds. However, the neighbouring farmer is hope-
ful that the church can be left in its historical
context.

The Qu’Appelle was an interesting name, a river
on a map — before our trip. But now, the Qu’Ap-
pelle evokes images of Cree hunters herding buffalo
into pounds, of lonely outposts of the fur trade, of
prehistoric persons taking welcome shelter in the val-
ley, and of early settlers travelling the prairie trails
in creaking Red River carts — and memories of the
rolling prairie dipping into the valley, miles of blue
sky and friendly prairie people.

Colleen Snipper is an historian with ARC and Margaret
Amoroso is with the Agreement Section of the same
program. They discovered that for purposes of their
own work, they would be travelling through Saskat-
chewan at the same time and got together for the trip
and this vivid glimpse into a “special place’.

Margaret Amoroso

Tom Searth

1. The simple frame church at Ellisboro, recently
purchased by the Wolseley Museum.

2. One cannot leave the Qu’ Appelle Valley without one
backward glance.

. Tipi rings such as this can be found

along valley rims and bottoms
throughout the Canadian Plains.

. The prairie crocus is common in open

prairie and hills throughout south-
ern Saskatchewan and Alberta.
Sheep may be poisoned by this plant
and their digestive system may be
impaired by the felty hairs.

Story and photos by Claude
Mondor

Découvreurs, peintres et naturalistes
ont été vivement frappés par limmen-
sité des plaines de l'Ouest, par le mode
de vie des Indiens et la vie animale
qui sy trouvait. Mais le “progres,
depuis 1867, menace cet environne-
ment. Claude Mondor s’interroge sur
l'avenir de ce milieu.

1]

|e

1. Wood Mountain Historic Park was
developed by the province of Saskatche-
wan as a tribute to the Northwest
Mounted Police who brought the Queen's
law into a vast territory and paved the
way for settlement of the west.

2. A Plains Indian rock cairn on the Suffield
Military Reserve. Located on a high
promontory, it forms the centre of a
‘medicine wheel’ and is connected to a
circle of stones over 100 feet in diameter
by radiating spokes of straight lines of
stones.

3. The coming of the railway marked the
end of plains ecology and towering grain
elevators replaced the Plains Indian tipi.

“...that country is notable primarily for its
weather, which is violent and prolonged; its empti-
ness, which is frighteningly total; and its wind,
which blows all the time in a way to stiffen your
hair and rattle the eyes in your head’.

WALLACE STEGNER, “WOLF WILLOW”

\ \ hen a young fur trader by the name of Henry
Kelsey travelled southwest from Hudson Bay in
1690, he emerged from several hundred miles of
treacherous rivers and forests to become the first
European to see the immensity of the Canadian
plains. He notes in his diary for August 19 that,
“... this plain affords nothing but short round sticky
grass and Buffilo (sic), and a great sort of a bear
which is bigger than any White Bear, and is neither
white nor black, but silver haired, like our English
rabbit. Ye Buffilo likewise is not like those to ye
Northward, their horns growing like an English ox,
but black and short.” Later, while travelling across
the open prairie he described the plains as “barren
ground, it being very dry heathy land and no water,
but here and there small ponds.”

To Kelsey, the west was an empty wilderness,
a negative illusion of the Canadian Plains which
still runs through the minds of many Canadians.
Viewed personally and historically however, that
almost featureless prairie glows with color.

Before Canada’s Confederation in 1867, the
Canadian plains, the lands rolling westward from
the Red River in Manitoba to the foothills of the
Rockies in Alberta and northward from the U.S.
border to the forest lands, were primitive.

They were as thousands of years of geological
and climatic evolution had made them. Grasses
clothed the bareness of land and softened the beat
of wind and rain; the prairie fires ran in the wind;
the bison, elk and pronghorn grazed through the
changing colours of the seasons.

Rivers flowed to distant seas unchecked. Across
empty miles the wind whistled, turning over every
blade of grass, every pale primrose, in search for
whatever it is looking for, and blew the hawks and
song birds about the sky. The sky was the biggest
anywhere, a light pure transparent blue, across
which moved navies of cumuli, fair-weathered
clouds, their bottoms parallel to the earth’s surface.
The air was clean, there was no haze, the horizon
— aclean line a dozen miles away.

Primitive, but not uninhabitated. Man had barely
touched them, for man himself was primitive, in
that he had adapted himself to the ecology, and not
the ecology to himself. One could not travel for
long on these grasslands without seeing the Plains
Indian and his works. Early travellers were particu-
larly impressed by the way the bison provided most
of the materials required for his needs: with the
skins he clothed himself, built his teepees, made
ropes and obtained wool; with the sinews he made
threads; from the bones he shaped awls; the dung
he used for firewood; the bladders he used as jugs
and drinking containers.

Particularly impressed was George Catlin, an
artist and writer, who in 1842 advocated that the
entire plains region be set aside as a National Park
to preserve both the buffalo and the Indians who
depend upon them for their livelihood. As he notes
in his book detailing his adventures amongst the
North American plains Indians —

“And what a splendid contemplation too, when
one (who has travelled these realms, and can duly
appreciate them) imagines them as they might in
future be seen, (by some great protecting policy
of Government) preserved in their pristine beauty
and wildness, in a magnificant park, where the
world could see for ages to come, the native
Indian in his classic attire, galloping his wild
horse, with sinewy bow, and shield and lance,
amid the fleeting herds of elks and buffaloes.
What a beautiful and thrilling specimen for
America to preserve and hold up to the view of
her refined citizens and world, in future ages! A
nation’s Park, containing man and beast, in all
the wild and freshness of their nature’s beauty!

He was too far ahead of his time to be taken
seriously. None of his readers had heard of a “Na-
tional Park”, or the conservation of wilderness for
the future.

It would take another 30 years before Yellow-
stone would be established as the first National Park.

The plains remained archaic or neo-archaic until
a century ago because they were isolated, even more
isolated than the Arctic Ocean is today. This isola-
tion was to end; the already dwindling bison herds
were only an anticipation of what was inevitable.
The end of the plains ecology and plains Indian
culture can be dated exactly: the signing of Con-
federation in 1867. As W. L. Morton, a leading
Canadian historian noted: “Confederation was, in
part only, but also in essential fact, a prelude and
preparation for the annexation of the prairies to the
Canadian version of continental integration”. Yet,
merely thirty years after that crucial date, the rail-
way, the town, agriculture from the east, ranching
from the south, industry and modern civilization
followed — the plains had been domesticated, the
emptiness occupied.

The fruits of modernization of the plains awaits
any tourist who travels the Trans-Canada Highway
between Winnipeg and Calgary. Mile after weary
mile he is greeted by the all pervasive checkerboard
texture of black summer fallow alternating with an
ocean of wind-troubled grain fields, interrupted oc-
casionally by ship-like farm buildings, of shelter-
belt trees, and regularly spaced towns with their
towering red and orange elevators that seemed to
be differentiated in name only.

Unnoticed, to the travellers eyes, however, are the
more subtle and far reaching effects of this thrust of
settlement. Creature after creature of the plains —
each a unique and irreplaceable work of eons of
years of evolution — has declined since the prairies
were annexed to the rest of Canada. Some have been
the victims of heedlessness and greed: the seemingly
endless flocks of Eskimo curlews, were slaughtered
with grim efficiency because there was “sport” or
money in it. Others have been exterminated because
of real or imaginary threats to the interests of men:
the strikingly beautiful “white” race of plains wolf

oS)

14

1. The Middle Sand Hills on the Suffield Military
Reserve is a remnant of an extensive sand dune area
which developed on a glacial outwash plain at the
end of the last glaciation.

2. and 3. Tenacious prairie flowers will find a foothold

almost anywhere whether in solid sandstone along
the Milk River (above) or among the glacial debris of
the Kildeer badlands.

and the huge and powerful plains grizzly, the last of
which were painted by John James Aubudon in
1843. Other species of Canadian Plains fauna tee-
tered on the brink of extinction — the plains bison
and the pronghorn antelope, the sole living mammal
which is distinctive to North America.

In more recent years, environmental contamina-
tion by chemical pesticides and the decline of suit-
able habitat, have become factors in the further
dwindling of the plains wildlife resources. The prai-
rie falcon and other grassland birds of prey are be-
coming increasingly rare because of the cumulative
effects of pesticide poisons derived from their prey.
The shy little kit fox with his big ears living on kan-
garoo rats, ground squirrels and grasshoppers, faces

an uncertain future for he has fallen victim to the
traps and poisoned baits set out for the coyote. The
black-footed ferret, never very common, has _be-
come perhaps the rarest of all our mammals with
the continued destruction of the prairie-dog colonies
on which it depends for both shelter and food. The
prairie-dog itself is also in peril of extermination in
Canada. Restricted to a few colonies in the valley
of Frenchman River southeast of Val Marie, Sas-
katchewan, it is often shot for sport or poisoned by
the ranchers who allude that they compete with his
livestock for available forage.

The impact of modern civilization on the Cana-
dian plains has been devastating. The bulk of the
great central grasslands has disappeared past re-

4. Erosion has removed the thin cover of glacial till of
the Killdeer badlands in southwestern Saskatchewan,
exposing the underlying sediment to further erosion
and creating bizarre-shaped landforms.

ly

. Dinasaur Provincial Park in Alberta contains the
most extensive and impressive badland formations
in Canada. The bedrock formations provide oppor-
tunities to trace the geological history of the area
over a time span of 70 million years.

6. Writing-on-Stone Provincial Park is an area of
mystery and beauty. A holy place to the Blackfoot
Indians, it contains many priceless pictographs as
above, some of which were carved upon the rocks

before the white man had ever seen the waters of the
Milk River.

call. The plow has broken the deep prairie sod and
turned its store of riches to the production of wheat:
domestic cattle now roam the range where the great
bison and pronghorn herds once grazed. Towns and
cities linked by railroads and highways now cluster
the Canadian plains, and only names are left to
remind us that this was once a different country.

Despite the progress, there still remains a number
of areas where remnants of the Plains, as an ecology,
as a native Indian culture, can be viewed and appre-
ciated in a relatively undisturbed state. The most
extensive of these include the Suffield Military Re-
serve, the Milk River, Manyberries and Dinosaur
Badlands areas in southeastern Alberta, and the
Govenlock, Wise Creek and Val Marie-Killdeer
areas in southwestern Saskatchewan. There, it is
still possible to step into the past for a little while,
to turn the clock back a century and experience the
original grandeur and solitude that so awed the
early visitors to the Canadian Plains. Here, it is pos-
sible to mentally reconstruct the details of the
sketches drawn by Catlin, Parkman and Kane, al-
though their subjects have gone forever.

Although there is yet an apparent abundance of
undisturbed grassland — the need for protecting
plains ecology is approaching urgency. All the re-
maining areas are being affected by human pres-
sures and their quantity does not ensure the protec-
tion of any individual one.

es ee ee

Claude Mondor is a Parks System Planner with Parks
Canada and one of the prairies biggest fans.

16

BS

5

*

Ray Standefer

Pat McCloskey _

(oa)

1

.
a

19

eu et lieu
Le foyer aux XYIIe et XYIIIe siecles

par Luce Vermette

R, Standefer

20 2 Soufflet a main 3 Potence et chaudron 4 Braisiére

In this article, Luce Vermette, an historian with the
Material History Section of Parks Canada, outlines
the importance of the hearth and its utensils to the
early Canadian home. Ms Vermette has recently
co-authored a book on French Canadian furniture
and housewares.

i e foyer désignait 4 proprement parler aux XVIIe
et XVIIIe siécles, le lieu ot I’on faisait le feu mais
le terme a vite englobé, par extension, la maison et
la famille.

En Nouvelle-France, le foyer était considéré com-
me le centre vivant de la salle commune, piéce prin-
cipale, voire unique du logis. La, se déroulaient la
plupart des activités domestiques. Mentionnons de
plus que la description des biens meubles au décés
d'un propriétaire commengait généralement par les
objets qui garnissaient la cheminée. Cétait le point
de repere de la maison.

Le foyer et plus spécialement les objets qui l’en-
tourent, témoins de la vie quotidienne d’autrefois,
reprennent de nouveau dans cet article leur place au
centre des travaux et des jours.

Attisons le feu

Construit en terre ou de préférence en pierre, le
foyer est, a cette époque, adossé a lun des murs
pignons de la maison et, par la suite, au milieu de
Yhabitation pour une meilleure répartition de la
chaleur.

Le fond de la cheminée peut étre garni d'une
plaque de cheminée ou de contrefeu, pour protéger
la maconnerie des flammes et réfléchir la chaleur
du feu dans la piéce ou dans une piéce adjacente a
la cheminée. Fabriquée en fonte ou en tole, la pla-
que peut étre unie ou marquée d’armoiries, recevoir
des dates ou illustrer des scenes religieuses ou autres.
Elle sera parfois remplacée par une grille de fer. En
labsence de plaque de foyer, le contrecceur peut
tre garni de briques, celles-ci reflétant mieux la
chaleur que la pierre.

Dans l’atre, dallé de briques, de pierres ou de
chantignoles, (briques de demi-épaisseur) se trou-
vent les chenets destinés 4 maintenir les baiches et
faciliter leur combustion en les isolant du sol. La
tige avant du chenet peut se parer d’un ornement
tel une pomme, une figure ou une fleur de lys. Quant
aux grands chenets de cuisine, aussi appelés landiers
ou hatiers, ils sont habituellement pourvus de cro-
chets permettant d’y adapter une broche a rotir.

Une série d’instruments a habituellement sa place
dans l’atre, ou & proximité, pour faire et entretenir

“e

"Rudy Van der Ham

5 Plaque de cheminée

le feu. Ainsi, pour exciter le feu et activer la com-
bustion, on se sert du soufflet d main, instrument
composé de deux palettes de bois maintenues par du
cuir et A embout métallique, ou du soufflet a bouche,
moins répandu et de facture plus rudimentaire, con-
fectionné le plus souvent a partir d’un vieux canon
de fusil. Les pinces, les pincettes a feu ou les tenail-
les sont employées pour disposer et déplacer les
biiches, saisir les charbons incandescents. La pelle
A feu est utilisée pour remuer et racler les cendres ou
débarrasser la cheminée de celles-ci. Quant au tison-
nier, il est destiné a replacer les biches, a attiser le
feu.

La fonction premiére se rattachant au foyer est
certes le chauffage. En un pays ot les froids se font
si rigoureux et si longs, la chaleur est trés recher-
chée. Recherchée pour le confort des occupants de
la maisonnée et pour le réconfort de ceux qui arri-
vent de l’extérieur. Par temps maussade, rien ne vaut
mieux que de se blottir auprés du feu. On remar-
quera de plus qu’on choisit quelquefois la proximité
de la cheminée pour dormir. Ainsi des cabanes,
sorte de lits clos en usage au XVIle et au début du
XVIIle siécles, sont placées a cété de la cheminée.

21

De

Pendons la crémaillére

Le foyer assume une deuxiéme fonction: celle
d’assurer la cuisson des aliments. Ce role s’avere
trés important puisque durant tout le régime fran-
cais, seul l’Atre pourvoit a ce besoin de l’alimenta-
tion. Ce n’est qu’aprés la conquéte et surtout au
XIXe siécle que le poéle, d’abord utilisé seulement
pour le chauffage, servira également a cette tache.

Il existe plusieurs ustensiles propres a la cuisine a
l’atre. Tout d’abord, dans la cheminée, pend la cré-
maillére, ustensile indispensable pour suspendre les
chaudrons et les marmites pour la cuisson des ali-
ments sur le feu. Certaines sont constituées de plu-
sieurs anneaux terminés par un crochet, d’autres,
plus rudimentaires, de plusieurs crochets reliés en-
semble; d’autres enfin se composent d’un morceau
de fer muni de plusieurs crans obliques. La chemi-
née peut aussi comporter une potence. C’est un sup-
port de fer ou de bois relié au jambage du foyer sur
lequel on accroche la crémaillére ou, en l’absence
de celle-ci, les chaudrons, marmites et autres usten-
siles pourvus d’anses. Quant au trépied, il est Vins-
trument sur lequel on expose au feu un récipient
généralement démuni d’anses ou méme un vaisseau
pour une cuisson lente au-dessus des braises. II est
fait dun cercle ou d’un triangle de fer reposant sur
trois pieds.

Tout un assortiment d’ustensiles se trouvent a la
disposition de la cuisiniére d’antan pour la cuisson
proprement dite des aliments au feu de l’atre. Ainsi
la broche a rotir sert a faire rotir les viandes et les
volailles directement sur le feu. Celle-ci, déposée sur
les crochets des chenets, est le plus souvent tournée
a la main au moyen d’une manivelle. Dans certaines
maisons plus aisées, un mécanisme plus ou moins
complexe assure une meilleure régularité de rota-
tion: le tournebroche a poids ou a chien. Le tourne-
broche a poids est le plus répandu: c’est une petite
machine dont le mouvement est imprimé a la broche
a rotir par la descente d’un poids reli€é par un sys-
téme utilisant corde, arbre, roues, poulies et chaine.
Le tournebroche a chien consiste en une grande roue
de bois en forme de cage, placée contre le foyer et
dans laquelle on enferme un chien. La course de
l’animal entraine la cage dans un mouvement de

rotation qui se communique a la broche a rotir par
un systéme de chaine et de poulies. Sous la broche
a rOtir, on place une léchefrite en cuivre rouge ou
jaune pour recueillir la graisse des viandes au cours
de la cuisson. Quant au gril, pourvu de cing a huit
branches, il remplit le méme réle, soit faire rotir les
viandes et les volailles directement sur le feu.

Si la broche 4a rétir et le gril permettent la cuisson
des aliments exposés directement a la flamme, d’au-
tres ustensiles s’interposent entre les aliments et le
feu. Parmi ceux-ci mentionnons tout d’abord les
récipients qui, pourvus de pieds ou d’anses, se re-
trouvent suspendus a la crémaillére, déposés directe-
ment dans l’atre ou reposant sur un trépied. Le
chaudron et la marmite, de fer ou de cuivre, servent
a la cuisson des légumes, soupes, potages ou viandes.
La coquelle de fer est plutét réservée pour faire mi-
joter les viandes. Quant a la chaudiére, fabriquée le
plus souvent en cuivre rouge, elle est employée pour
chauffer et bouillir ’eau et également pour cuire
certains légumes. Le coquemar et la bouilloire, cette
derniére aussi appelée bouilly, canard ou bombe,
ustensiles plus maniables que la chaudiére, sont des-
tinés a chauffer de petites quantités d’eau.

D’autres récipients, dépourvus de pieds et d’anses,
sont déposés sur un trépied ou directement dans
l’atre. Telle est la poéle, récipient habituellement en
fer et utilisé pour une cuisson rapide des aliments.
Il existe aussi la poéle a café, la poéle a confiture, le
poélon, la poélonne, la casserole et la bassine. La
poissonniére, long vaisseau en cuivre muni d’un tire-
poisson (grille) a Vintérieur sert, comme son nom
l'indique, a faire cuire le poisson. De plus, toute une
série de pots, allant au feu, peut figurer parmi cette
liste: ils sont faits de terre vernissée et sont munis
d’une anse ou d’une queue.

Pour la cuisson des aliments a l’étouffée, on utilise
la braisiére et la tourtiére. La braisiére de cuivre ou
de fer posséde un couvercle a rebord sur lequel on
dépose des braises favorisant ainsi une cuisson des
viandes, poissons et légumes des deux cdtés a la
fois. Quant a la tourtiére, fabriquée le plus souvent
en cuivre rouge, on y fait cuire des tourtes, des
patés de viandes.

6 Bouilloire

14 Casserole

11 Trépied

7 Coquemar

12 Poélon

15 Poissonniére

& Soufflet a bouche

13 Bassine

0 iP:

hat =

24

17 Tournebroche a poids

16 Tournebroche a chien, chenets
et broche a rotir

Vous resterez bien encore un peu?

Si le chauffage et la cuisson des aliments s’averent
deux fonctions importantes du foyer, cependant
celui-ci n’est pas restreint a ces deux roles. Car dans
la vie quotidienne, on lui attribue une plus grande
valeur. Ainsi en est-il de l’éclairage. A une époque
ou la vie est en grande partie réglée par la lumiére
solaire, l’on se contentait souvent, a la tombée du
jour, de la simple lueur du feu de l’atre, par man-
que ou par économie d’éclairage d’appoint.

C’est aussi le lieu ot, le soir venu, les membres
de la communauté familiale se regroupent et parti-
cipent quotidiennement a une série d’activités. Par-
mi celles-ci, on mentionnera les travaux ménagers
tels le filage, le tissage ou le tricot. Les activités ludi-
ques, tels les jeux de cartes, de dames ou de trictrac
peuvent également se dérouler dans ce coin de fa-
veur. Et pourquoi ne s’y retrouve-t-on pas aussi pour
lire et écrire? Enfin, réunis autour du foyer, parents,
voisins et amis se racontent histoires et légendes.

Le foyer a donc été en Nouvelle-France le cceur
de la vie. Tant qu’a subsisté le feu d’atre, le foyer
est demeuré le lieu le plus important de l’intérieur
domestique, concentrant a son voisinage travaux,
loisirs, conversations et réveries.

18 Crémaillére a dents
Crémaillére a crochets et
anneaux

Ethnographe de Parcs Canada, Luce Vermette vient de
publier aux Editions de !Homme, en collaboration avec
Nicole Genét et Louise Décarie-Audet, un volume inti-
tulé “Les objets familiers de nos ancétres’. Ce réper-
toire nous décrit les objets domestiques en usage en
Nouvelle-France. Luce Vermette collabore aussi régu-
liérement a la revue Décormag.

COLLECTIONS:

Chateau de Ramezay: 13

Ferme Saint-Gabriel, Montréal: 1,2,3

Musée des Augustines de l’H6tel-Dieu, Québec: 14
Musée du Québec: 11

Musée militaire et maritime, Montréal: 7,9,10
(tisonnier), 12,15

Musées nationaux du Canada: 8
Parcs Canada: 4,5

Les autres objets font partie de collections privées.

##% INFOTHEQUE #44

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L’ordinateur et la restauration
par Francois Leblanc

The computer is a strange beast — often misunder-
stood, more often not understood at all, At Parks
Canada, the computer is looked upon as a friend,
being useful to The Canadian Inventory of Historic
Building. Francois Leblanc, with Technical Ser-
vices writes of the uses to which the friendly beast
is being put in his Branch of the Department.

1. La courtine Saint-Louis. Dessin de F. G. Dawson,
too27A.P.C.)

2. Une des réponses fournies @ un utilisateur désirant
obtenir des renseignements sur le type de cons-
truction des murs de fortification entre 1800 et 1860

com eic eee eco e ecco ecco ee oo oe meee ee ee 8

bo
‘Nn

Ls fichier de référence Infothéque est né en juillet
1971 pour répondre au désir des ingénieurs et des
architectes du ministére de posséder leur propre cen-
tre de documentation spécialisé en restauration et
en conservation de batiments historiques.

On créa donc un fichier central, muni d’une série
de renvois, dans lequel des données techniques sur
les méthodes de construction, la technologie ou les
matériaux étaient versés.

Mais des facteurs de temps, d’espace et d’acces-
sibilité (surtout lorsque Ton sait que les opérations
de Parcs Canada sont réparties en cinq bureaux ré-
gionaux) ont bientdt poussé les responsables a
stocker les renseignements recueillis a ’ordinateur.

Fonctionnant depuis novembre 1973, ce pro-
gramme d ordinateur, traité en l’occurrence sur un
IBM 360-85, constitue pour les architectes et les
ingénieurs en restauration un outil de travail pré-

cieux et rapide pour les aider a résoudre des pro-
blemes techniques particuliers.

Des dédoublements de travail et de vaines re-
cherches sont ainsi évités et un temps précieux, con-
sacré a d’autres activités.

Sa rapidité et sa capacité d’absorption ont vite
attiré d’autres utilisateurs. Les services de planifica-
tion et l’équipe de recherche historique en culture

26 matérielle s’en servent maintenant pour emmagasi-

ner dans ce corpus central, trouvailles, documents
historiques et rapports de recherche. Le tableau de
la conservation et de la restauration se complete
peu a peu.

Les aliments

L’utilisation d’Infothéque est relativement simple.
Le client reporte sur des formulaires l’intégral ou le
résumé de rapports, de volumes, d’articles de revue,
de notes de recherche, de bibliographies, d’articles
de journaux tout comme des descriptions de dessins
et de gravures historiques, relatifs a son travail.

Il y souligne alors les mots ou les groupes de mots,
qui constituent, selon lui, essence du texte ou peu-
vent servir de points de repére les plus importants
pour retracer plus tard l'information. On mention-
nera qu’on peut utiliser nimporte quelle langue a
caractéres romains.

Il peut également étre nécessaire Wutiliser des
codes pour faciliter l’insertion de données. Dans ces
cas, les codes deviennent eux-mémes des mots clés.

Des renseignements complémentaires tels le prix
d’un volume, la période historique que décrit un
volume ou un article, la date de parution et les sour-
ces sont également inclus. On peut facilement res-
treindre les recherches a un lieu ou une période
déterminés.

1. Planche tirée de | Encyclopédie de Diderot et
ad’ Alambert, 1763. Article: Charpentes

2. Ruines du haut-fourneau des forges du Saint-Maurice,
circa 1900. Les chercheurs de ce projet comptent
parmi les principaux utilisateurs d’Infothéque
(Université Laval, Division des archives)

De plus, on peut stocker des dessins faits par
ordinateur tels études démographiques, organigram-
mes et schémas d’aménagement urbain.

Le texte est acheminé a la banque centrale. Cha-
que client recoit alors un code de trois lettres qui
lidentifie. Le texte est transcrit intégralement sur
fiches d’ordinateur et donné a la “dévoreuse”.

D’autre part, un client qui ne désire pas partager
les données qu'il fournit a la banque, qu’elles soient
confidentielles ou qu’elles fassent partie de travaux
encore inachevés, peut les verser a une banque pri-
vée d'Infothéque. L’accés y est évidemment restreint
et est protégé par un code spécial.

On peut ajouter de nouveaux renseignements a
Infothéque en tout temps. Selon les directives du
client, ce qui est périmé ou infirmé par de nouvelles
recherches est détruit.

L’extraction

Un index des mots clés, simples ou groupés, est
publié sous forme de dictionnaire et est périodique-
ment mis a jour. Un recueil de synonymes est égale-
ment disponible. De plus, il existe une version de
index alphabétique qui comprend toutes les per-
mutations des mots groupés comme par exemple:

architecture militaire des fortifications

militaire des fortifications, architecture

fortifications, architecture militaire des

Le client consulte ces index et répertoires, for-
mule une question en se servant de mots clés, sou-
met le tout a l’ordinateur et en recoit une réponse.

Infothéque et la restauration

En regroupant tous les renseignements techni-
ques pertinents a la restauration historique, présen-
tement enfouis dans les archives, les bibliothéques,
les rapports de recherche, les fiches et les mémoires
des personnes concernées, Infothéque permet de
résoudre plus rapidement des problémes de travail.

A ce propos, un ingénieur fit récemment appel a
la banque centrale afin d’obtenir des renseignements
sur le décapage de la peinture et du vernis appli-
qués sur les briques d’un batiment historique. Utili-
sant des mots clés tels peinture, vernis, décapage,
décapant, analyse et les groupant en quatre ques-
tions différentes, il obtint 70 sources ou documents,
en quelques heures.

On peut affirmer sans crainte d’exagérer qu’un
travail semblable, pour trouver, lire et résumer le
méme nombre de documents, aurait nécessité de
deux a trois semaines de travail.

Infotheque facilite aussi interaction entre les res-
ponsables de la restauration de batiments historiques
et élimine des dédoublements de travail. Les mem-
bres d’équipes de recherche peuvent aisément se
partager la lecture de sources de référence et les résu-
mer en mots clés pour leurs confréres. D’autre part,
les index renferment tous les titres des ouvrages
traités; on s’évite bien des peines en les consultant.

La disponibilité de nombreuses données histori-
ques et techniques permet d’éviter des erreurs de
restauration souvent attribuables au manque de
temps et de sources d'information pour procéder a
des vérifications nombreuses et précises.

Enfin, Infotheque deviendra un complément du
travail de l’Inventaire des batiments historiques. Cet
inventaire posséde déja plus de sept millions de
données sur les traits architecturaux de 100,000
batiments au Canada.

Ces deux outils permettront 4 un chercheur, dé-
sirant des renseignements sur la restauration de
pignons en croix, par exemple, de trouver des don-
nées techniques sur les méthodes ou les problemes
particuliers de construction tout comme des caracte-
ristiques architecturales, des indications sur les ma-
tériaux et des photographies d’exemples qui subsis-
tent au Canada.

Francois Leblanc est architecte en restauration

28

él cé$O

DANSEREAU, PIERRE.

La Terre des hommes et le paysage intérieur
Editions Ici Radio-Canada et Leméac. 1973
190 pages. Bibliographie.

Quel titre évocateur! La Terre des hommes nous
rappelle Antoine de Saint-Exupery, le philosophe et
Vhomme d'action, et le paysage intérieur, Gérard
Manley Hopkins, le poéte qui a lancé le mot “inscape”
pour décrire notre perception de V’environnement. Ce
choix de Pierre Dansereau ne nous étonne guére

car lui aussi est avant tout un penseur engagé et un
humaniste. Voila plus de 40 ans qu’il publie articles,
mémoires et volumes qui traitent de phytosociologie,
d’écologie et de biogéographie, quwil participe a des
congrés internationaux, qu’il enseigne dans les plus
grandes universités ou fait des recherches dans toutes
les zones climatiques. Travailleur infatigable, voyageur
actif et curieux, éclectique dans ses lectures, il réussit
dans ce volume a se débarrasser de sa carapace
d’homme de science et nous livre ses réflexions un peu

comme l’ont fait Teilhard de Chardin ou Jean Rostand.

L’auteur veut aller au fond du probléme. II constate,
comme plusieurs l’ont déja fait, que notre planéte
court de graves dangers, menacée par la pollution,

la surpopulation, les conflits sociaux, le gaspillage des
ressources, l’industrialisation et l’urbanisation aveugles
et quil y a un seul moyen de sauver notre espéce du
suicide: modifier notre “imagerie intérieure” pour
qu’elle serve de modéle au remaniement du paysage.
Tout est remis en cause, notre culture, nos traditions,
nos perceptions, nos principes qui sont en fait dictés
par le couple Technologie-Etat Industriel. Nos sens

se sont atrophiés dans les villes artificielles ou nous
avons oublié tout contact avec la réalité, le minéral, le
végétal et l’animal. Dés le Néolithique, le schisme était
amorcé, mais c’est avec l’éthique chrétienne que
Vhomme rompt définitivement avec la nature, qu’il
méprise les besoins physiologiques et tue la sen-
sualité. La suprématie de Vhomme a retenu notre
attention beaucoup plus que son intégration dans
Penvironnement.

“La richesse de nos paysages intérieurs est un pré-
liminaire 4 une bonne gestion de nos ressources” et
V'Ecologie — l’Ecologie humaine méme — peut

nous fournir le cadre conceptuel et méthodologique
pour atteindre ce but. Traditionnellement, le cyclage
des ressources est illustré par un triangle stratifié pour
suggérer que, de la base au sommet, a partir des
plantes en passant par les herbivores jusqu’aux
carnivores, le nombre d’espéces et d’individus impliqués
dans la chaine alimentaire va en décroissant. Mais
Dansereau, toujours innovateur, nous présente une
nouvelle vision du monde: c’est une sphére, un systeme
qui tient compte de flux d’énergie, d’apports de res-
sources et d’échanges, tout en y ajoutant deux autres
notions, celle de l’investissement et du controle.

La premiére consiste en ressources qui n’entrent pas
dans le cycle courant ou qui semblent axées sur des
fonctions a long terme, comme I’addition d’anneaux
concentriques a un arbre ou la mise en réserve de
noix par les écureuils. L’autre réfere aux pouvoirs de
Vhomme d’orienter les forces de l’écosysteéme, comme
la coupe sélective, urbanisation ou la construction
de barrages.

Ce schéma est suivi d’un tableau qui retrace l’escalade
de l’emprise de homme sur environnement et son

role dans le changement du visage de la terre. Huit
stages y sont expliqués: la cueillette, la chasse, Pélevage,
l’agriculture, l’industrialisation, Vurbanisation, le
controle du climat et l’échappée de la gravité. En
utilisant la sphére et le tableau, le lecteur prend
conscience, au niveau philosophique et écologique, de
la place qu’il occupe dans la nature.

La lecture est facile, forte d’exemples et de phénomenes
qui sont bien connus de l’auteur et qui peuvent étre
compris par tous. Il ne faut pas étre surpris de passer
du cog 4l’Ane, de laisser un sujet et de le retrouver
dans un autre chapitre, comme dans un conte ou une
conversation. Et pourtant, en refermant le volume, on
sent quil y a un lien entre tout ce quia été dit et

que chaque élément se rattache au theme principal:

essayons de retrouver notre ame primitive et servons-
nous de l’Ecologie comme code d’éthique pour l’amé-
nagement de la Terre des Hommes.

Marc Bisson

Division de la Recherche appliquée,

Inventaire des ressources

Parcs Canada

RICHMOND D. HOBSON JR.

The Rancher Takes A Wife

McClelland and Stewart, Toronto, 1974.
236 pages

The nineteenth century pseudo-scientific belief that
climatic and scenic conditions have a direct influence
on the molding of national character, has, in the
twentieth century, become a useful tool employed by
writers and publishers seeking to cash in on growing
English Canadian nationalist sentiment. With increasing
regularity there now appear new additions to the
growing canon of English Canadian literature on which
lovers of “the true north strong and free” can feast
their patriotic eyes and spend their minted-in-Canada
dollars. Fortunately, not all literary publications with
this theme are examples of money-grubbing. In recent
years writers such as Margaret Laurence and Alice
Munroe have undertaken honest, sensitive explorations
of human relationships that result from the interaction
of people and their environment in particular Cana-
dian settings. They and other writers like W. O.
Mitchell have contributed towards creating worthwhile
literature that does have unique Canadian aspects

and incorporates the effect of geography and climate
on human life.

The same, however, cannot be said of The Rancher
Takes A Wife, the most recent volume in McClelland
and Stewart’s Canadian Nature Classics Series.
Apparently an autobiographical account of the true
experiences of one Richmond D. Hobson, Junior (an
American), the book’s main Canadian content lies in the
fact that it takes place in the interior of British
Columbia. The story line is simple: in the early 1940's
strong, virile cowboy Rich, marries beautiful, ultra-
feminine, wealthy Gloria, a girl from the big city of

Vancouver. Together they go off, not into the sunset,
but into “a jungle of swamps, rivers, and grasslands”
where, prior to his marriage Rich and his faithful

dog, Bear had roamed as employees of a large cattle-
ranching firm. In attempting to establish a cattle ranch
of their own, Gloria and Rich and their small hardy
group of acquaintances encounter, 1. blizzards, 2. wild
animals (bears and wolves), 3. floods, 4. isolation from
other humans. The crises are easy to tabulate since
almost each chapter recounts one of them.

High drama is meant to result as this small group of
humans, attempting to civilize this last frontier,
overcome such adversities. In reality, the reader can
only respond by a yawn — the Hardy boys’ adventures
were more exciting. Descriptive passages are written
in hackneyed cliches; attempts at insight end in
platitudes; and moments of high intensity reflect the
sensitivity of a soap opera. Mr. Hobson may have lived
through these experiences but his lack of ability to
share them in an interesting and perceptive manner
with his reader make one wish that he had hired a
competent ghost writer.

The portrayal of Gloria, (the heroine promised in the
title) is enough to make anyone other than a die-hard
male chauvinist despair, as one watches her exhibit
“typically female” traits such as stubborness and
irrational emotionalism. In two instances she almost
meets her end because of her persistent refusal to

heed her husband’s advice, only to be pulled from the
jaws of death by faithful dog, Bear, who saves the

day. Feminists can take consolation however, in the
fact that the development of the males’ personalities is
equally thin and stereotyped.

One can only conclude that McClelland and Stewart
and Mr. Hobson have produced an unsuccessful
literary amalgam of Frederick Jackson Turner’s
“frontier thesis” and the Canadian “myth of the land”.
For readers interested in accounts of “roughing it in
the bush”, English Canadian literature already has far
superior offerings. This book is recommended only

for masochists who torture themselves through
boredom.

Georgina Wyman, Historian
National Historic Parks
and Sites Branch.

30

MARSAN, JEAN-CLAUDE.

Montréal en évolution
Montréal, Fides, 1974. 423 p.
Bibliographie sélective, Index et illustrations.

La croissance incontrélée des métropoles d’aujourd’hui
nous menace tous, telle un monstre en liberté, préte

a profiter des moindres faux pas de ses victimes. Ce
danger a favorisé derniérement la montée d’un mouve-
ment de conscientisation qui vise 4 promouvoir

une certaine qualité de vie en milieu urbain. L’ouvrage
de Jean-Claude Marsan “Montréal en évolution”
s’inscrit d’emblée dans ce courant.

Professeur a la Faculté d’aménagement de l’Université
de Montréal, dipl6mé en architecture de la méme
institution, en urbanisme de l’Université d’Edimbourg,
Jean-Claude Marsan milite pour la protection de
l'environnement au sein d’organismes tel Sauvons
Montréal. Les amis de la gare Windsor, et ! Association
espaces-verts.

Le grand mérite de Montréal en évolution, cest davoir
réussi a rendre histoire du développement physique
de Montréal a la fois intelligible et passionnante.
L’architecture et l’environnement y sont considérés
comme un tout homogéne, le produit de forces et de
conjonctures identiques. Celles-ci occupent donc une
position privilégiée. Dans un premier temps, l’auteur
décrit le milieu ambiant (site géographique, caracté-
ristiques du sol et du climat) puis raconte comment les
Européens, rompus a un mode de vie particulier se
sont progressivement adaptés a ce nouvel environne-
ment; cette dépendance envers les forces du milieu
s’exprime d’abord par un modéle d’occupation du sol
en cOte (ou rang) ainsi que par une architecture ver-
naculaire modifiant peu a peu ses modéles européens.
Le Montréal de cette époque pré-industrielle refléte
une dépendance du monde rural: la ville gravite autour
de la place du marché lieu indispensable d’échanges,
et de la Place d’armes, centre social de la commu-
nauté, bornée par l’église paroissiale et la résidence
des seigneurs (Séminaire).

La section la plus importante couvre la période indus-
trielle et s’articule autour de phénoménes nouveaux
tels la mécanisation des moyens de production et la
révolution dans les communications qui ont bouleversé
les structures sociales, marquant ainsi profondément
le paysage de Montréal. L’espace urbain devient alors
une simple denrée de consommation. La ville se déve-
loppe suivant un quadrillage uniforme et se scinde
spatialement en quartiers francophones et anglo-

phones, pauvres et nantis. Les maisons cossues des
riches reflétent alors les prétentions et les emprunts
culturels d’une classe coloniale privilégiée tandis que
les logements des pauvres manifestent dans leurs
formes une adaptation compléte aux réalités socio-
économiques.

L’ouvrage se termine par un regard sur l’ére contem-
poraine. Montréal, métropole, étire maintenant ses
bras tentaculaires partout dans la plaine avoisinante.
Les industries inaugurent un nouveau pattern d’implan-
tation le long des axes routiers tels ’autoroute trans-
canadienne tandis que le centre-ville, autour des
squares et des places se trouve transformé en un vaste
champ d’asperges (selon l’expression colorée de
auteur). Dans cette derniére section, plus schémati-
que que les autres, Marsan ne touche guére qu’aux
réalisations architecturales qui ont particuli¢rement
marqué la vie de la cité soit celle du métro et des
batiments qui ont contribué a créé un nouveau centre-

ville (Place Ville Marie, Place Bonaventure, Place

Victoria cites.)

Cette vaste étude s’appuie principalement sur des
sources secondaires, l’ampleur du sujet ne permettant
pas une recherche exhaustive de sources manuscrites.
Mais ceci ne nuit en rien a la qualité du livre qui
demeure un excellent ouvrage de synthése. Le lecteur
appréciera bien stir la rigoureuse articulation de
l'ensemble. Mais il gotitera tout particuli¢rement le
ton du récit car Marsan, en professeur passionné de sa
matiére, sait communiquer sa ferveur a ses éléves.
Sans jamais tomber dans le pathos verbal, il s’éléve
contre la politique de laisser-faire en matiére de
planification, communique son enthousiasme pour des
hommes tels Champlain ou Dollier de Casson et son
dédain de toute architecture qui ne matérialise pas

des besoins sociaux. On retrouvera dans ce livre des
théses déja connues comme celle de la double tradition
médiévale et baroque de l’architecture québécoise
(Gowans) ou celle de l’adaptation au milieu (Morisset);
cependant, les passages les plus savoureux concernant
le paysage urbain découlent d’observations “in situ”,
empreintes d’une sensibilité et d’une intuition re-
marquables.

Il faut espérer que Montréal en évolution connaisse
une vaste distribution et qu’ainsi soit aiguillonné
Vintérét du grand public envers l'avenir d’une ville
aussi passionnante que vulnérable.

Mathilde Brosseau,

Analyste,

Inventaire des batiments historiques.
Parcs Canada

Published by Parks Canada under authority of
the Hon. Judd Buchanan,Pc, MP,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
©Information Canada, Ottawa, 1975

INA Publication No. QS-1241-030-BB-A1
Design: John Ball Graphic Arts Service Ltd.

Conservation Canada is a quarterly publication
Editors: Sheila Crutchlow, Martin Filion
Production: Eric Plummer

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.

Translations of articles in the other official language are
available on request from The Editor, Conservation Canada,
Information Services, Department of Indian and Northern
Affairs, Ottawa, K1A 0H4.

To have your name added to our mailing list please write to

Ray Standefer

Publié par Parcs Canada avec l’autorisation

de ’hon. Judd Buchanan, cp, député,

ministre des Affaires indiennes et du Nord
©Information Canada, Ottawa, 1975
Publication AIN N° QS-1241-030-BB-Al
Présentation: John Ball Graphic Arts Service Ltd.

Publication trimestrielle.
Rédaction: Martin Filion, Sheila Crutchlow
Production: Eric Plummer

On peut reproduire les articles en mentionnant
leur provenance.

On peut se procurer des versions anglaises ou frangaises des
articles parus dans ce numéro en s’adressant au Rédacteur,
Conservation Canada, Services de |’Information, Ministere
des Affaires indiennes et du Nord, Ottawa, KIA OH4.

On peut faire inscrire son nom a la liste d’envoi de la revue
en écrivant a la méme adresse.

Indian and

the above address.

Northern Affairs
Parks Canada

Affaires indiennes
et du Nord

Parcs Canada

Fublishted by Parks Canade under
suthority of the Hon. Judd Buchanan,
>C_ WP. Minister of Iindiam andi

Jorthern Affairs

information Canada, Ottawa, 1975

NA Publication No. OS-T24T-040-BB-At

Publié par Parcs Canada avec l'auto-
risatiom de hon. Judd Buchanam, CP,
député, ministre des Affaires indiiennes
et dw Nord

©lnformation Canada, Ottawa, 1975
Publication AIN N* OS-1241-040-BB-At

‘ditors- Sheile Crutchiou,

Aartim Filion

troduction: Eric Plummer Production= Eric Plummer 5
Jesign« Jacques Charette andi Graphisme- Jacques Charette et
issociates Ltd Assaciés Ltée

trticles may be reproduced with z On peut reproduire les articles em men-
Tredit line. Translations of articles im tionnant leur provenance. Om peut se

he other official lanquage are available procurer des versions anglaises ou
rt request from The Editor,

Information, Ministére des Affaires
indiennes et du Nord, Ottawa, KTA OH4.

lorthterm Affairs, Ottawa, KTA OH4_

a have your name added to our mailing
ist please write to the zhove eddress_
lanservation Canada is @ quarterly
publication.

On peut faire inscrire som nom @ la liste
d’envoi de la revue en écrivant 2 la

tequiar readers will already have noticed something a little
fifferent about the presentation of our current issue. But let
IS assure you that the design is the only thing we've changed.
is promised im issue one, we are touching down at some
(ery exciting places on the Parks Canada map.

First. to Artillery Park im the heart of Québec City
uhere the 260-year-old relic is undergoing a facelift.

Then om to the Fundy Trail to discover the charms
historical and otherwise) of trekking a path so important to
he development of Canada as a nation, and take a nostalgic
jlimpse into the past when wooden sailing ships were manu-
‘actured along the Fundy coast. Finally, a brief but highly
nformative look at our glacial heritage.

And those readers who enjoy the color photos to the
=xtent of extracting them and mounting them for decoration
mill be delighted by the cover and Plus section.

2 = Louis he :

Denis S t-Louis —

hae Whytock “Rivers of ice”

an Etc

La conservation du patrimoine hieworiques et la sauvegarde
des quartiers urbains anciens font l'objet de nombreux _
articles et de longues discussions de nos jours. Louis: Richer
et Denis St-Louis abordent ces deux sujets en nous présen-
tant le Parc de I’Artillerie, dans le Vieux-Québec. Louis
Richer nous relate Ihistoire des lieux depuis les débuts en
1712 tandis que Denis St-Louis nous parle des travaux —
actuels de restauration. pa

Nicholas Coomber pour sa part, nous convie aune_
randonnée touristique sur les pourtours de la baie de Fundy.
Il nous parle des marées, des lieux historiques et de la vie
paisible de ce coin des Maritimes qui attirent une multitude |
de visiteurs, chaque année.

Henrik Deichmann, dans son article sur la construction
navale, nous rappelle un aspect de Ihistoire traditionnelle .
des Maritimes. Kim Whytock nous fait connaitre la beauté
et la ““fraicheur”’ des glaciers.

Ce numéro marquera notre premier anniversaire. Vous
avez sans doute remarqué que nous avons fait peau neuve.
Nous espérons que cette nouvelle présentation, encore plus
dégagée et souple que la précédente, saura vous plaire.

Voila quelques autres aspects des programmes de Parcs
Canada. L’été est la: profitez-en!

Conservation Canada

Par Louis Richer —

Louis Richer dirige 'équipede cher

cheurs du projet du Pare de | Artillerie.

© Le Parc de |’Artillerie, dans le Vieux-

= Québec, renferme une dizaine d’édi-
| fices qui racontent chacun une tranche

ede l'histoire de la ville de Québec, de

la Nouvelle-France et du Canada.
Ces batiments raménent le visiteur
| jusqu’en 1712, faisant connaitre les

F débuts de cet ensemble militaire défen-

i sif dont les ouvrages ont servi de quar-

™ tiers généraux a la garnison francaise

| de Québec tout comme plus tard de

| centre d’activités du Service de I’Artil-
lerie britannique. Ils rappellent aussi la
période industrielle du parc et racon-

| tent enfin la croissance de la ville de

| Champlain en évoquant tout aussi bien

| les défricheurs de 1627 que la restau-

| ration actuelle, reconquéte d'un quar-

| tier urbain.

Fortifier la ville
Le traité d‘Utrecht de 1713 mettait
fin A plus de vingt ans d’hostilites entre
fla France et |’Angleterre. On procéda
| alors en Nouvelle-France a une reorga-
| nisation du systeme de défense colo-
| niale. Québec céda sa place, comme
centre stratégique, 4 Louisbourg ou on
| construisit une forteresse digne des
| places fortes d'Europe. On abandonna
© alors tout projet de fortifier la ville,
= sous prétexte que les Anglais ne répe-
| teraient pas leurs aventures désas-
| treuses de Phips en 1690 et de Walker
en 1711.Les récifs du Saint-Laurent
| qui avaient fait échouer la flotte de

2 Conservation Canada

Walker sur I'lle-aux-Oeufs, protege-
raient la ville de toute attaque. Ainsi,
l'ingénieur Chaussegros de Léry, arrive
dans la colonie en 1716, vit-il tous ses
différents projets de fortifier Quebec,

y compris la construction d'une cita-
delle, refusés.

Lorsqu’arriva 4 Québec la nouvelle
de la chute de Louisbourg en 1745, la
population locale, affolee par la pers-
pective d'une attaque, demanda la mise
en place d'un systeme de défense. Les
autorités locales acquiesceérent a cette
demande et de Léry mit en chantier de
nouvelles fortifications. L’année sui-
vante cependant, le Roi donna |’ordre
d‘arréter les travaux. Celui-ci répri-
manda le gouverneur pour avoir engagé
d’importants fonds sans sa permission.
Mais la volonté populaire |’emporta
sur celle du souverain, et les travaux
se poursuivirent; le Roi dut se conten-
ter de payer la note.

Les murs actuels de Québec suivent
le tracé des fortifications construites
par de Léry. Formée de six bastions,
(celui de la Glaciére disparut en 1622
lors de |’érection de la Citadelle), cette
ligne de défense allait de la porte du
Palais au nord jusqu’aux hauteurs du
Cap, a l’ouest. Elle devait assurer la

_its history from its beginning in the
early 1700's to the present day, de-
scribing its components (fortifications

and buildings) and recalling the main
historical events and the persons
connected with it throughout its long
history. =

_ Louis Richer, Head of the historical
research team for Artillery Park traces

sécurité de la ville de son cdté vulne- |
rable soit celui donnant sur les Plaines}
d’Abraham et sur la riviere Saint- j
Charles. Les autres parties de la Haute
ville jouissaient d’une protection natu)
relle a cause de l’aspérité du terrain. |
La Basse-ville, pour sa part, était dée- |
fendue par des batteries de fort calibr)
Montcalm en 1759, puis Murray
|'année suivante préférérent livrer
combat a l’extérieur de l’enceinte de
Québec. lronie de l'histoire, ces forti-
fications construites par les Fran¢ais, |
assurerent aux Anglais la possession
de la ville a deux reprises. Murray se |
réfugia a |intérieur des murs suite a $I
défaite de Sainte-Foy en 1760, tandis
que Lévis martelait la fortification a
coups de canon. L’arrivee d'une flotte
anglaise dans le Saint-Laurent, quel-_
ques jours plus tard, scella le sort de}
Québec en faveur de Murray. En 177!
1776, les fortifications francaises pel
mirent a Carleton de tenir en échec le
Américains venus assiéger la ville. |
Deux des six bastions construits
par cet ingénieur font partie du Parc |
de |’Artillerie actuel. Cette fortificatic
au nord, en particulier du demi-basti:
de la Potasse jusqu’a |’ancienne port}
du Palais, était une des parties les pl
importantes pour la défense de la vil}
Sa position stratégique commandait }
approches du coté de la riviere Saint
Charles. Aussi, possédait-elle deux

lignes de défense. La premiére, un
muret en forme de bastion, était percé
de meurtriéres pour la mousqueterie.
Sa construction remonte a 1712 alors
qu'il faisait partie d’un projet de dé-
fense mis de I‘avant par |‘ingénieur
Beaucours mais qui ne fut jamais ter-
miné. |i fut rehaussé sa hauteur
actuelle vers 1800 afin d’en prévenir
l’escalade par les soldats de la garni-
son en quéte de sorties nocturnes.

La deuxiéme ligne de défense était
la courtine, construite en 1745, reliant

le demi-bastion de la Potasse a la porte
du Palais. Cette muraille de cing pieds
d'épaisseur était percée de dix-sept
embrasures a canon. En 1775, le tir de
son artillerie démolit |’ancien Palais

de I'Intendant situé au bas de la falaise.
Les Américains s‘y étaient réfugiés et,
du haut de la coupole du batiment, ils
tiraient sur les soldats circulant a |‘inté-
rieur de l’enceinte. Aucune attaque,
méme par les rigueurs du climat, le

plus grand enremi de nos vestiges
historiques, n’a pu détruire ce mur
toujours en place.

La garnison et les casernes
Québec avait aussi besoin d'une
bonne garnison pour répondre aux exi-
gences de la guerre, qui durera 4 toutes
fins utiles jusqu’a la capitulation de
Montréal en 1760. Depuis la paix de
1713, les troupes Franches de la Ma-
rine chargées de la défense de la colo-
nie, avaient été négligées. Les soldats
se préoccupaient plus de traite de four-
rures que d’exercices militaires. De
toute facon, la discipline n’avait jamais
été a |‘honneur puisque, dans la plupart
des cas, les soldats ne vivaient pas en
casernes. On décida donc d’en amé-
nager et, en 1750, la garnison de Qué-
bec passa de 336 4 750 hommes.

Les deux batiments principaux du
Parc de |’Artillerie, !a redoute Dau-
phine et les Nouvelles Casernes, fai-
saient partie de |‘aménagement de ces
deux corps de logis militaires. L’ingé-
nieur de Léry termina, en 1748, la
construction des logis de la redoute
Dauphine afin de pouvoir y loger cent
soldats, et construisit les Nouvelles
Casernes adossées a la courtine entre
le demi-bastion de la Potasse et la
porte du Palais.

Les débuts de la redoute Dauphine,
le batiment le plus ancien du Parc de
l’Artillerie, remontent a 1712 alors que

Les 260 ans du Parc de l’Artillerie

Beaucours travaillait a un nouveau pro-
jet de défense. Le muret dont nous
avons déja parlé, faisait partie de ce’
méme projet. Les travaux furent inter-
rompus avec le retour a la paix de
1713.

La nouvelle ligne de fortification
avait rendu inutile |’éperon du bati-
ment, mur de défense prévu a | origine
et sur lequel on devait monter huit
canons: i] fut simplement abandonne
dans son état incomplet. On en a re-
trouvé les vestiges.

La Dauphine fut construite sur des
terrains vagues ou on enterrait ‘avec
horreur’ les soldats hérétiques morts
4 I'Hétel-Dieu. Ces terres basses qui
forment en grande partie |’emplace-
ment actuel du Parc de |’Artillerie,
étaient peu propices a la construction
domiciliaire. Les eaux de la ville s’y
déversaient depuis les hauteurs du
Cap. Aussi, en 1727, | intendant Du-
puy eut-il |’idée d’y creuser une citerne
afin d’alimenter la fontaine située dans
les jardins du Palais de I’ Intendant
situé au bas de la falaise.

En plus des logements des redoutes
Dauphine et Royale (cette derniére
disparut en 1810), de Léry construisit
les Nouvelles Casernes. Ce batiment
de pierre, long de 525 pieds, avait
trois étages dont deux vodtes, et était
surmonté d’‘un grenier. En plus de
casernes, on y retrouvait des salles

piielles Casernes et de la redoute

lee 5 Bitouniques et Vere
industrielle /
De 1759 4 1871, le secteur des |

Suaiice atoanet de plus de:
d’officiers tandis que ses sous-sols

servirent en 1775 et 1776, de prison
aux détenus américains captures lors
del’ invasion ameéricaine. /

Trois ents de pier
nant un c de garde, un |
ciers e ar rappellent
sage des artilleurs dans le Par

en 1880, vint altérer grandement
l’'apparence originale du Parc. Des édi-
fices et des installations industriels
furent construits un peu partout, dé-
truisant certains batiments déja en
place, y compris une poudriere et
changeant |’ spect premier de |
autres. /

Par contre, la fonderie de | oe
construite dans le bastion Saint-Jean,

1 ‘activité de milliers de Québécois qui
ont travaillé a ‘Arsenal de la Cote du
— Palais.

L’établissement d’une cartoucherie ~

cone.
situées sur |
|’Hotel-Dier xiéme se situe a
l‘intersection des rues ‘McMahon et
Carleton. Ces maisons sont des exem-
ples intéressants de \‘évolution de
l‘architecture civile du Vieux-Québec ©

_ des XVIlle et XIX@ siécles. La maison —

Flamand, en voie de restauration, a éte

__construite vers 1756 par un des grand

NS

entrepreneurs | l‘époque. Nous retrot
vons, sous les couches de papiers peint
et les crépis, la décoration originale

-peinte a la main sur les boiseries de

cette noble maison de pierre.
L'intérét de ces maisons vient éga
lement de leurs différents occupants.

4 — Conservation Canada

Le Poe 2 [Artillerie en 1829. Aa

centre, la redoute Dauphine, au fond,
a gauche, une partie des Nouvelles

- Casernes et a I'arriére-plan, la riviére

Saint-Charles. J. P. Cockburn, R.O.M.
Toronto.

_ Lentrée principale du Pare. J.P Coe

burn, 1830. Archives du ee de
Québec

Gaillard et

—

SINOT-1$ Siuag sed
uleqin enbiiojsiy 8;quissus un,p

8

Conservation Canada

Les travaux de restauration de la redoute
Dauphine. (Jacques Hébert)

Denis St-Louis est l’architecte-résidant,
coordonnateur des travaux d’'amenage-
ment au Parc del Artillerie.

The restoration of Artillery Park was
begun in 1972. The enormous task of
restoring and refurnishing this 260-year-
old military complex is magnified by its
position within one of the oldest and
most highly urbanized areas of Quebec.
Denis St-Louis, a restoration architect
tells of the problems and solutions
devised to accomplish the renaissance
of an important part of our historical and
architectural heritage.

En 1972, un vaste projet de mise en
valeur d’un patrimoine historique et
architectural et de rénovation urbaine
débutait dans le Vieux-OQuébec. Le Parc
de |‘Artillerie, devenu un parc historique
national, allait renaitre.

Blotti a |’angle nord-ouest des forti-
fications de la ville, le Pare de |Artillerie
couvre une superficie de 8,15 acres et
renferme une dizaine d‘édifices d impor-
tance historique et architecturale,
quelques maisons et des édifices com-
merciaux.

Le projet représente pour le minis-
tere une des plus importantes entreprises
de restauration et de réhabilitation en
milieu urbain. Ses crédits s‘éléevent a
plus de 11 millions de dollars. Les tra-
vaux respecteront | ’évolution historique
et architecturale de |‘ensemble et contri-
bueront également d'une facon dyna-
mique au réaménagement du Vieux-
Québec. Dans la méme veine, on peut

ici mentionner le projet Halifax Water-
front, inauguré en 1973, qui implique la
rehabilitation de batiments commerciaux
historiques tels des entrepdts et une
banque dans le quartier du port d‘Halifax.
Les visiteurs se présentant au parc
devront apprendre a garder un casque
protecteur sur la téte, a entendre un
tintamarre de marteaux pneumatiques,
de ciseaux a pierre et a voir des écha-
faudages et des excavations car les
travaux s échelonneront jusgqu’en 1981.

La création du projet

En 1971, un comité fédéral-
provincial, créé par le ministére de
‘Expansion économique régionale et
| ‘Office de Planification et de Dévelop-
pement du Québec, recommanda le
parc comme une priorité d’aménage-
ment. Cette recommandation était
conforme au voeu exprimé a cet égard
dans le Concept de réaménagement du
Vieux-Québec, publié un an plus tét
par les autorités municipales de Québec.

Suite a une étude plus poussée de
| ‘Tlot de |’Arsenal par la Corporation de
|‘Hdtel-Dieu, le ministére proposa un

Perspective des maisons de la Céte du Palais,
une fois restaurées

projet de restauration du Parc de | ‘Artil-
lerie qui engloberait les propriétés de
I‘hdpital et celles du ministére qui leur
sont adjacentes. Le ministére s’engagea
moralement et financiérement avec

| ‘aide des crédits de |’entente Canada-

Québec sur les zones spéciales a trouver

une solution convenable au probleme
du stationnement de |‘Hdtel-Dieu.

La Commission des lieux et des
monuments historiques du Canada avait
reconnu | importance des lieux en 1959.
Mais il est une autre histoire dont je
voudrais ici brosser les grandes lignes:
celle des profondes transformations et
de la lente dégradation des lieux.

Le visage du parc 1880-1972

La transformation graduelle du
secteur militaire du parc en complexe
industriel modifia profondément les
espaces libres et les édifices. En 1907,
par exemple, on construisit sur l’ancien
champ de parade entre la redoute
Dauphine et les Nouvelles Casernes, un
immense atelier. Des entrepdts occu-
pérent par la suite les espaces encore
disponibles.

Les Nouvelles Casernes constituent
peut-étre le meilleur exemple de déla-
brement et de défiguration qu‘ont pu
connaitre ces batiments durant cette
période. Le batiment fut victime de deux
incendies partiels; on y reconstruisit
alors une section centrale completement
étrangére a l'ensemble. Lorsque les
Casernes devinrent une usine de muni-
tions, au début du XXiéeme siecle, on y
construisit une centrale génératrice et
un laminoir et on joignit graduellement
les murs des casernes au parapet,
couvrant ainsi d‘un toit tout le bastion.
L’édifice était presque méconnaissable.
Aprés la disparition définitive de
‘Arsenal en 1964, les Nouvelles Caser-
nes furent laissées a |abandon.

La zone civile du parc connut elle

Conservation Canada

9

10

Conservation Canada

aussi un sort aussi pénible. Entre 18/5 et
1930, on démolit des maisons, rues de
|‘Arsenal et McMahon. On y construisit
aussi | ‘édifice Québec Gas Co. (que
nous avons démoli depuis). La aussi, les
incendies causérent des ravages et
quatre maisons y furent gravement en-
dommagées. Fort heureusement, une
partie de la trame urbaine typique de la
Vieille ville subsiste en partie sur la
Céte du Palais.

La présence de |’automobile et de
véhicules de transport en commun dis-
proportionnés a la largeur des rues, a
|‘intérieur des murs de la ville, a eu un
double effet sur le développement du
Parc de |‘Artillerie. Les espaces libres et
les batiments laissés a |’abandon ont
servi de stationnement.

De plus, a cause de la topographie
accidentée de la Vieille ville et du peu
d‘accés haute-ville, basse-ville, des
bréches furent effectuées dans les murs.
A |‘ouest, le rempart fut perce pour
laisser passer la rue Richelieu. Au nord,
la porte du Palais fut démolie pour
faciliter le passage des tramways et des
automobiles. Les conséquences directes
de ces deux phénomeénes furent | inter-
ruption par le fait méme du lien pieton
au niveau de la promenade des remparts
et la création de croisements de circu-
lation peu souhaitables.

Des édifices furent construits a
méme les remparts et les glacis, détrul-
sant toute la perspective des l1eux.
Enfin, les services publics inadequats,
protection contre les incendies, evacua-
tion des eaux de surface, éclairage, et
|‘abandon de plusieurs batiments acce-
lérérent la détérioration des lieux et
encourageérent le vandalisme.

On peut aisément conclure que cet
ensemble était mal, sinon a peu pres
pas, exploité dans le contexte du
Vieux-OQuébec.

Les travaux de restauration

Les travaux actuels et futurs au Parc
de |’Artillerie viseront a conserver et a
exploiter les éléments les plus signifi-
catifs de |’ensemble afin de présenter au
public une vue coherente et authentique
de |’évolution historique et architectu-
rale des régimes francais et britannique.
lls amélioreront la qualité esthétique
des lieux et redonneront une vocation
urbaine a |’ensemble.

Les travaux dans le secteur militaire
auront pour objet les fortifications, six
batiments militaires, dont la redoute
Dauphine, les Nouvelles Casernes, le
logis d’officiers et la fonderie, construits
entre 1712 et 1901, |‘ameénagement
paysager des places, des sentiers de
piétons et des voies de service.

La nature des travaux consistera
essentiellement en des travaux de res-
tauration dont le degré sera different
selon |‘utilisation prévue, la valeur histo-
rique du batiment, son état actuel, sa
rareté, voire son unicité.

La redoute Dauphine et | édifice
no 1 (la fonderie de |‘Arsenal), illustre-
ront notre propos.

La redoute Dauphine, le batiment le
plus ancien du parc, fut construite entre
1712 et 1745 et constitue un exemple
typique d ‘édifice militaire ayant subi
de multiples modifications au cours de
son histoire.

Concue a l‘origine comme avant-
poste défensif, mais laissée inachevee,
la redoute Dauphine a été terminée
comme corps de casernes, a | intérieur
d'un systéme défensif nouveau et de
plus grande envergure, protegeant tout
le cOté ouest de la ville. Grace a des

Les Nouvelles Casernes, hier et aujourd ‘hui

ee ae 10h)
Re opr

12

Conservation Canada

études comparatives, différents états
nous sont maintenant bien connus.

A cause de son unicité, de sa com-
plexité et de la rareté du type architectu-
ral auquel ce batiment appartient, la
restauration du batiment s’attachera
surtout a |interprétation de son type
architectural d’origine, et a la conserva-
tion de ses principaux états historiques.

Dans la restauration de |’ensemble
architectural, on restituera |’€peron et
d‘autres éléments significatifs, mais de
telle facon qu’ils puissent étre identifies
par le public, comme interventions
contemporaines nécessaires a la compre-
hension de |’édifice et de son évolution
historique.

La fonderie, construite en 1901,
nous est parvenue dans un trés bon état.
Cet édifice demeurera le seul exemple
de batiment construit a des fins indus-
trielles par |‘Arsenal du Dominion.

On restaurera intégralement son volume
architectural. A cause de sa conception,
du vaste espace qu'il offre et de sa
position stratégique a | entrée sud-ouest
du bastion Saint-Jean, cet édifice servira
de centre d’accuell aux visiteurs.

Les travaux de restauration se feront
dans le respect de | évolution de cha-
cune des structures, car chacune d‘entre
elles a été marquée par |évolution et
‘adaptation au temps, aux modes, au
climat, aux usagers et aux nouvelles
découvertes techniques.

Le respect de |évolution et le réta-
blissement de la continuité de la forme
en réintégrant des composantes archi-
tecturales modernes seront les deux
grands principes qui présideront a tous
les travaux de restauration.

Le parc dans la ville
Le Parc de |Artillerie offre ainsi, par
son envergure et ses possibilités d’amé-

nagement une occasion unique d ‘intro-
duire dans le tissu urbain une toile de
fond d’activités multiples indispensables —
a |’équilibre fonctionnel du milieu.

Un quartier sain fait appel a la pre-
sence dun noyau stable de population
qui cherche a combler ses besoins
d'habitation, de travail, de commerce,
de culture et de loisirs dans un environ-
nement qui posséde les services auxi-
liaires, réseaux de communication,
transport, énergie qui permettent de les
bien satisfaire.

La réhabilitation d'une partie des
maisons de la Céte du Palais et la cons-
truction d'une nouvelle trame urbaine a
|’échelle du quartier permettront une
exploitation des fonctions résidentielles
et de travail dans un flot actuellement
mal utilisé.

Le probleme de la zone civile du
Parc est essentiellement celui de la
réintégration d'un jlot résidentiel dans
un quartier en voile de mutation sociale
rapide et de délabrement toujours plus
accentué.

La réhabilitation de | ilot consistera
a réutiliser des ressources recyclables
existantes. Ces batiments a !’échelle du
quartier pourraient servir a des fonctions
contemporaines et abriter des rési-
dences, des bureaux, et des boutiques.
Les travaux viseront a préserver leurs
composantes architecturales particu-

Enfin, la relocalisation du stationne-
ment a |’extérieur des murs permettra
d‘éviter |°encombrement du parc par les
vehicules automobiles et d’y diminuer
la pollution visuelle et auditive. L’amé-
nagement des zones de verdure, de
sentiers pour piétons et |’amélioration
du mobilier urbain contribueront a re-
hausser la qualité de vie en milieu urbain.

On peut déja prévoir des effets
secondaires a plus long terme. Le projet
géneérera trés probablement un réamé-
nagement des zones périphériques
incluant la réhabilitation de secteurs
résidentiels, la mise en valeur des fortifi-
cations, la réfection des voies publiques
et des services publics et |‘amélioration
de la qualité du mobilier urbain.

La nécessité de protéger et de
mettre en valeur cet ensemble dont la
restauration a exigé des investissements
liéres et a y aménager les services néces- massifs, le cheminement de |'idée de
Saires pour répondre adéquatement aux conservation maximale de |’environne-

Proposition de restauration des Nouvelles
Casernes

nouvelles fonctions ou destinations ment bati par des techniques actuelles et
des batiments, sans en altérer le cachet la présence d'une main-d‘oeuvre formée
historique. a |'idée de préserver des matériaux et
Les travaux d’aménagement con- des matiéres recyclables, laissent déja
temporain, en architecture et en génie entrevoir cette orientation.
seront réalisés 4 |’échelle de |’ensemble Le projet du Parc de |‘Artillerie
du territoire et de chaque batiment. s‘insere dans une nouvelle politique de
La construction d‘édifices d’accompa- préservation et de mise en valeur des
gnement, |‘aménagement paysager des quartiers anciens en milieu urbain a
places et le traitement des voies publi- laquelle contribuent déja de nombreux
ques, | installation des canalisations programmes gouvernementaux. || est
souterraines et la construction d‘une évident que la participation de |’entre-
centrale de services, la mise en place prise privée et des comités de citoyens
d‘un mobilier urbain approprié (en- devra venir se greffer a cette entreprise.
seignes, bancs, éclairage), doteront le La participation de ces derniers
territoire de services essentiels a | ‘utili- est essentielle puisqu’un des principaux
sation active du secteur. buts de cette mise en valeur est finale-

ment de protéger et de revaloriser les
investissements des citoyens sur un
patrimoine Immobilier dont ils pourront
jouir et qu’ils auront a animer de leur
présence soutenue.

Conservation Canada 13

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Tides,
taleSanalooster

Nowhere on the Fundy coast is the erosive
action of the tides better displayed than at
Hopewell Cape. These flowerpot rocks have
been carved out of sandstone cliffs by the
constant wave action of the tides.

By Nicholas Coomber

Nicholas Coomber is a Parks Systems
Planner with the ARC (Agreements for
Recreation and Conservation) Program
of Park Canada.

Nicholas Coomber, planificateur du
programme ARC (Accords au sujet de
la Récréation et de la Conservation),
nous fait part des impressions que lui
ont laissées le littoral, les lieux histo-
riques et les légendes de la baie de
Fundy, dans les Maritimes.

18 Conservation Canada

raps

If you can imagine a snail crawling up
a wharf with the water lapping at its
heel all the way, you will have an idea
of how fast the tide rises in the Bay of
Fundy.

The highest tides in the world occur
at Economy Point, Nova Scotia where,
twice a day, twenty-five cubic miles of
the Atlantic Ocean are jammed into
the Bay of Fundy and its estuaries.
This results in a shoreline difference
between high and low tides, of up to
50 feet.

This remarkable Canadian event is
caused by the narrowing of the Bay at
its mouth and its division into two
branches, the Cumberland and Minas
Basins, by the Chignecto Peninsula.
Incoming tides are forced into the bot-
tlenecks and the water rises dramatic-
ally. This cramming effect is especially
vigorous in the estuaries at the head of
the Bay where the water builds itself
into a foaming wave several feet high
and gallops upstream at incredible
speed ignoring the downward flow of
water. This is the tidal ‘bore’ an inap-

The French Cross at Morden, Nova Scotia,
marks the site of the tragedy which befell three
hundred Acadian refugees in the winter of
1755-6.

propriate name to the snail cling-

ing precariously to his wharf while the
brine roars over him and the tardy
fisherman rowing for his life because
his watch stopped.

What is hazardous for the snail and
fisherman is a curiosity for sightseers.
All of the major estuarine towns of the
Bay of Fundy — Moncton, Saint John,
Truro and Windsor — furnish visitors
with tidal bore schedules, vantage
points and souvenir postcards of their
own individual bores.

While none of the towns actually
claim to having the biggest bore, Saint
John does promote its ‘‘World Famous
Reversing Falls’’ an attraction which is
at least, geologically remarkable. The
coincidence of 40-foot tides, a narrow
bottleneck in the Saint John River and
a natural underwater barrage combine
to cause incoming tides to cascade
down the exposed upstream side of the
barrage. Ebb tides do the reverse. The
effect is rather like a set of churning

’ rapids and definitely no Niagara; but

where else could you go up the falls
for an encore.

A few centuries ago tides swept
daily over vast areas of swamp and
mudflats around the Bay. A dozen or
so of these marshes in Nova Scotia

nd New Brunswick were dyked and
jrained by Acadian settlers in the early
lighteenth century. Their technique
| as to construct wooden framed dykes
ir aboideaux, along the lower portions
f the main river channels, extending
nem upstream as far as necessary to
jrevent the tides from overflowing
round the upper end. The effect was
channel river and tidal water be-
ween the artificial banks so that the
ich silty soil behind the dykes could
le cultivated. In this way some of the
ajor river estuaries of the Bay —
re Annapolis, Cornwallis and Avon
vers in Nova Scotia and the Tantra-
dar, Aulac, Missiguash, Memramcook
nd Petitcodiac in New Brunswick —

ne first permanent white settlements
) North America were established by
ne Acadians.

The significance of these and other
sttlements in our history has been
Pcognized by Parks Canada in the

erection of numerous commemorative
plaques and the establishment of sev-
eral National Historic Parks.

Grand Pré National Historic Park
marks the site of a former Acadian
village and is taken to be the setting for
Longfellow's epic poem ‘Evangeline’.
Fort Anne at Annapolis contains well
preserved earthworks of a French fort
dating back to 1695, and a powder
magazine which is the oldest standing
structure in the National Historic
Parks system. Almost directly across
the inlet from Fort Anne lies Port Royal
Habitation, home for several dozen
French fur traders between 1605 and
1615. Among them was Samuel de
Champlain whose institution of the
Order of Good Cheer began North
America’s first gourmet cooking club.
Other settlements were the forerunners
of todays towns — Annapolis, Pisiquid
(Windsor), Cobequid (Truro), and
Beaubassin (Amherst).

Beyond the great dykes thousands
of acres are briefly uncovered by the
receding tides — vast beaches, shim-
mering mud flats, rocks, boulders,
sand-bars and... dulse.

To anyone born outside the Atlantic
provinces, dulse may be simply sea-

weed. To maritimers it is akin to am-
brosia and people all over the world
agree with them. This pungently mari-
nated natural pickle is usually sundried
but sometimes it is toasted before it is
eaten. Occasionally it is powdered and
used to add a seaside flavour to a
variety of dishes.

Of course, dulse isn’t the only
thing left behind by the tide. If you
have a strong back, clams are there for
the digging and periwinkles and mus-
sels for the picking. Because the tides
race backwards and forewards across
the mudflats one has to dig fast and
continuously, a feat made easier if
practiced from the time of childhood
buckets and spades. Traditionally it is
a man’s job, women hold most of the
jobs in the shelling and packing plants
along the shore. The shell-fish industry
is made up primarily of small, often
family businesses throughout the mari-
times except at Chamcook, New Bruns-
wick, where nearly two million pounds
of clams were taken last year.

The abundance of seafood in the
Bay of Fundy has played an important

Conservation Canada

role in the area’s history. Often re-
counted to visitors to the village of
Morden, Nova Scotia, is the tragic
story of about 300 Acadians from
Belleisle in the Annapolis Valley, who,
in 1775, after their expulsion by the
British, were led by a Pierre Melancon
on a march to Blomidon and hence to
friends at Chignecto. They were forced
to winter on the North Mountain coast
with no food except mussels which
they gathered from the icy rocks. Only
60 of the group survived the ordeal and
today the site of the tragedy is marked
by the French Cross in what is now the
village of Morden. In 1790 during its
construction, the walls of St. Mary’s
church in Auburn, seven miles inland
were plastered with powdered mussel
shells left by the French fugitives.

There is a wealth of seafaring
stories along the North Mountain Coast
which runs from Digby Gut to Cape
Split.

At Margaretsville, Peter Barnes
gave his name to Peter’s Point when,
in 1793, he hung false signal lights
which wrecked the Saucy Nancy. |ron-
ically, he fell to his death from the

20 Conservation Canada

same point, twenty years later after
mistaking other lights for those of his
own Cabin.

Hall’s Harbour is named for Cap-
tain Hall whose ship was wrecked after
his retreat from a plundering trip inland
— his loot was never found. Isle |’Haut,
a forbidding rock twenty miles out
from Morden is the supposed site of a
treasure hoard buried by a particularly
cruel buccaneer named Ned Low. It is
said to be guarded by the ghost of his
youngest crew member, killed by the
Captain for that very purpose.

In all of the maritimes there are
historic tales the equal of any in Can-
ada, but it is the Isthmus of Chignecto
which surpasses them all. Here were
the two major fortifications active in
the Anglo-French conflict Fort Beau-
séjour (now a National Historic Park)
and Fort Lawrence. This was the area
of the first Acadian settlements, the
site of the ill-fated ship railway from
the Cumberland Basin to Baie Verte,
the site of three large Micmac encamp-
ments, an old Indian portage route, old

French military roads, the first Method.
ist church in Canada and a host of
other sites of historical and general
interest.

Further west along the coast are
the sites of the Loyalists settlements
that began after the War of Indepen-
dence. Saint John is the largest but
St. Andrews at the tip of the Cham-
cook Peninsular within a cannon shot
of the United States is the most pic-
turesque. In its early days it grew
quickly on a diet of shipping, lumber,
army garrisons and the railroad. Today
retirement pensions, tourist dollars, a
biological station and lobsters help the
town keep its original charm. Thanks
to a fire-free history St. Andrews is one
of the few Canadian towns with an
abundance of historic buildings. To
take a stroll around the town is like
stepping back a hundred years or more
There are three places of particular
interest in this tiny hamlet — the Algon:
quin Hotel a giant resort operated by
the Canadian Pacific Railway and one
of the most photogenic in the country;
Minister’s Island named after the Loya
ist Reverend Samuel Andrews and late
the retreat of railway baron Sir Willian

in Horne where he built the largest
‘use in New Brunswick and St.
‘\drews Blockhouse, a cantilevered
ucture near the shore, which is now
je of Parks Canada’s special places.
Lobsters along with herring are the
1st important catch of the Fundy
ast. At St. Andrews however, it
uld not be completely honest to call
[2 lobsters a ‘catch’ as most are
»»ught from the lobster pounds at
er Island. The pick of the season's
Stch are used for restocking the
Dund for a year-round supply.

| To the casual observer the Fundy
cast villages all look identical. But
bre are many differences if you look
¢ them. The alignment of each wharf
/ries to afford the greatest amount of
selter for the fishing boats and every
nttage takes advantage of a rocky
dge, a sunny slope or a sheltered
Diff. Whatever the subtleties of design
?Bry village leaves an indelible image
) the visitor’s mind — lobster traps
| Cked along the backshores, fishing
Jats resting quietly beside high timber
\arves and weatherbeaten fishermen
(pecting their gear — unique and

1morable characteristics of the Bay
Fundy.

/
|

Conservation Canada

22

Ship building days at Alma

Conservation Canada

Cet article nous rappelle les beaux
jours de la construction navale a Alma
Beach.

by Henrik Deichman

K. Henrik Deichman is Chief Park
Naturalist at Fundy National Park.

Alma Beach at the eastern end of
Fundy National Park in New Brunswi
is a quiet spot where many visitors to
the park enjoy the pleasures of sea
bathing — today. It was once however,
a bustling centre of business where
wooden sailing ships, to ply the ocean
of the world, were manufactured.

A ready supply of timber nearby
and skilled Scot’s hands to fashion
the graceful shapes made Alma Beach
ideally suited to this almost forgotten
Craft.

From about 1870 to the end of the
First World War, some 27 vessels wer
launched; some were quite small, but
few went over 500 tons. They were
mostly schooners, but there were also
brigs and barquentines. Schooners
were most popular because with their |
tapered sails they were best for ‘‘coas|
ing’’, that is, they could tack against |
the wind. For crossing the ocean, othe’
ships, with their square sails, had ad- |
vantages, but lots of schooners went |
over too. |

After years of doldrums in the shij!
building industry, a Mr. White, owner)
of the local sawmill and other enter- |
prises, decided, in 1917, to revive
shipbuilding at Alma. He engaged Hel)
bert Condon of nearby Hopewell Cape)
to line up a crew. Condon, a master |
builder with much experience, had no.
actually done much with ships for :
some years, but he lined up a crew of |
the best men available, and the keel o-
the ‘‘Meredith A. White’’, a schooner,»
was laid in August, 1917.

No sooner was the ‘‘Meredith”
started, when White decided to build |
sister ship and engaged a young man |
of potential talent, some 40 miles awit!
across the Bay of Fundy at Parrsboro.
This was to be James Graham's first
ship. No doubt he had learned a lot
from his father, a man, who at 70,
had reputedly launched ships equal ir.
number to the years of his life. Graha)
laid the keel for the “Vincent A .
White’ in November, 1917. Both ship
were designed tobe of 452 tons.

When Graham came to begin wor.
as master carpenter and foreman, he |

|

jught a couple of experienced Nova
)tians with him. This was a wise
e, as all the skilled local men were
ady working with Condon. To fill
| his crew, Graham trained some of
| younger men. In spite of his appar-
disadvantage, Graham’s crew
ved ahead with great strides; and
urther speed his progress, he de-
d ways to eliminate tedious hand
k. Timbers, once selected from the
, were rough sawn ona small mill,
ing on time-consuming axe shaping.
ndon’s crew did everything by hand
lhe old way, and, by late spring,
{ham had gained the three months
(nis belated start. Bets were being
{de on which ship would be launched
. Before long, it was announced
I the “’Vincent’’ would be launched
Ly ugust 7th, and the ‘’Meredith’’ on
i. Both vessels waited on the

ways, their masts and spars bedecked
with flags and bunting. Everyone in the
village dressed up in their finest; the
first launching for twenty years!

To ensure that everything was right,
Graham sent for his father. Graham
senior methodically went over the posi-
tions of the chocking, and supervised
the greasing of the ways. The appoint-
ed moment came, the chocks were
knocked out, and the ‘’Vincent”’ slip-
ped beautifully out into the full tide.
Now it was time for the ‘‘Meredith”’
to have a turn, and her ways were
lubricated. It was said that Mr. Lean-
der Graham commented ‘‘she’ll start...
but she'll stick’’. And stick she did, and
the Grahams were blamed for hogging
the grease!

A further attempt was made on the
following day. With the application of
more grease, the ‘’Meredith’’ went out
in style, one day late on August 9,
1918. The last started was the first
launched.

Though built at Alma, both the Meredith and
Vincent were registered in Parrsboro,
Nova Scotia.

The White ships under construction. The
Vincent js in the foreground.

Conservation Canada

&

Joe Boyle: King of the Klondike,
William Rodney,

McGraw-Hill Ryerson Ltd.,
Toronto, Ontario, 1974.

Who was Joe Boyle? To a small number of Cana-
dians Boyle was the archetypal Canadian hero, a
man whose life and achievements rank him with the
heroes of American popular history. The fact that he
was, and is, a little known figure has fostered the
legend and ina peculiarly Canadian way given it a
cult-like quality. Whether this image will survive the
publication of William Rodney’s Joe Boyle: King
of the Klondike is open to question, for although
Rodney has written that “‘in the stirring times in
which Boyle found himself — the Klondike gold
rush, the Russian Revolution, Roumania’s survival
and rehabilitation during and after World War I,
international oil politics — his responsibilities far
exceeded the parochial. His achievements...
matched the times and were extraordinary in their
practical application and long-term effects” (xii),
the portrait of Boyle that emerges is not that of a
man in control of events but rather that of aman
curiously detached from his times. Joe Boyle, hero
or otherwise, never comes alive in these pages and
the pity is that it is not for want of effort on Rodney’s
part, but seemingly because of it.

Rodney faced an awkward dilemma in
attempting this biography. Because Boyle had, or
at least left, no personal records (there are a few
Boyle letters scattered in other collections), Rod-
ney was compelled to reconstruct Boyle’s life from
the personal reminiscences, diaries and corre-
spondence of others, newspapers, and official cor-
respondence, reports and despatches. Another,
possibly wiser, biographer might have decided that
there was only enough relevant information to
justify a medium-sized biography. Rodney, his
search for evidence having taken him from Dawson
City to Roumania, took the opposite approach with
the result that Joe Boyle: King of the Klondike, with
a text of 300-odd pages in small type, is a classic
of the scissors and paste genre. If history, as one
wag suggested, is one damn fact after another,
Rodney's Joe Boyle is an example of what can
happen when an author tries to compensate for a
paucity of prime source material by including what
must have been every reference, irrelevant as well
as pertinent, that issued from his research. The
end result is that Boyle, the man, often fades from
view. This is unfortunate because no one can dis-
pute that this book is based on a prodigious amount
of research and because the odd chapter shows
that Rodney is capable of well-considered, tightly
written, prose.

On the plus side, Rodney has given us the first
scholarly biography of aman whose affairs and
achievements have long called out for recognition.

Le pain d’‘habitant,
Dupont, Jean-Claude
Leméac

Montréal, 1974.

EtcEtcEtcEtcEtc

SON NII III OTT TOTO COS IOC ICICI OIC COI COICO III ROCIO ICI IOICIOICINICIOICIICICISIeIOICI III

Le “Pain d‘habitant’’. Pour la plupart des Cana-
diens francais, ce trait culture! s’est bien amenuisé
depuis vingt, trente ou cinquante ans et le bon “‘pain
d’habitant” ou “pain de ménage”’ ne vit plus qu’une
existence précaire de reliquat folklorique pour les
touristes sillonnant les routes du Bas-du-Fleuve et
de la Gaspésie durant les vacances estivales. Pour-
tant, iln’y a pas encore si longtemps, le pain fait a

la maison était au centre des préoccupations de la
vie familiale, surtout dans les campagnes. C’est
cette réalité, tout cet ensemble de traits culture/s
rattachés 4 la fabrication du pain et a son utilisation,
que M. Jean-Claude Dupont a voulu décrire dans
son petit livre.

Dans le préambule, I’auteur s‘attache d’abord
a définir son approche qui sera celle d’un folkloriste
considérant les faits culture/s autant sous leur
aspect matérie/ que spirituel. Donc, approche englo-
bante qui veut cerner |’objet étudié sous toutes ses
facettes, tout en tenant compte d‘une tradition
s‘insérant dans un temps culture! qui est celui de
l'utilisateur.

Conséquemment, la premiére partie de
l’‘ouvrage portera sur l’aspect matériel, la techno-
logie: origine du four a pain; le four a pain, maillon
d’une chaine d‘activités humaines; types de fours
a pain au Québec; four communautaire; fabrication
des fours en glaise; fabrication du “pain d‘habi-
tant’, du “pain de chantier” et du “pain de cano-
tier’. Cette section surtout descriptive est appuyée
de nombreux témoignages oraux. Elle est en général
bien documentée, mais nous aurions quand méme
certains reproches a /ui faire sur des points parti-
culiers. Par exemple, l’auteur parle d'un “four amé-
rindien du Québec” (p. 22) quiest en fait un four a
pain a voate percée utilisé par des Montagnais de
la Céte-Nord. L’expression un peu vague nous
laisse croire que ce four est typiquement amérindien
alors qu'il ne s‘agit que d'un emprunt cul/ture!. /l en
est de méme, a propos de /a fabrication du four en
glaise a l'aide dun baril, qui est décrite comme
étant une technique “indienne” tirant son origine
de Mingan a Sept-lles (p. 40). Un informateur de la
région de Forillon en Gaspésie, dont la famille était
originaire de I‘ile de Guernesey, nous a déja rap-
porté une technique a peu pres identique utilisée i/
n'y apas encore tellement d’années par les pécheurs
saisonniers. On se demande aussi ce que viennent
faire les descriptions de fours a fondre la graisse de
baleine, de fours a brique, 4 chaux, a poterie et a

Conservation Canada

28

Conservation Canada

ottotdasisiotsota

Despite a tendency to be overly uncritical in his
treatment of Boyle, Rodney has not sensationalized
Boyle’s life. To be fair to Rodney, his lack-lustre
style may have been prompted by Kim Beattie’s
sensationalized account of Boyle’s life; in any event
Joe Boyle: King of the Klondike, apart from its solid
foundation on fact, can be viewed as the antithesis
of Beattie’s Brother, Here’s a Man! Rodney does
not, as did Beattie, leave any doubt about Boyle’s
alleged affair with Queen Marie of Roumania. He
argues cogently that their relationship was platonic.
Rodney is also the first author to give Boyle his just
due in the development of corporate mining in the
Yukon. This reviewer remains unconvinced that
Boyle pioneered cold water thawing as Rodney
asserts, however, since it is not apparent from the
book that Boyle recognized that cold water was a
more efficient thawing agent than steam. Rather, it
appears as though Boyle did no more than take
advantage of the natural thawing that occurred on
his Klondike River concession. Although Rodney's
account of the conversion to capital-intensive
mining suggests a lack of sympathy for the small
operator, no one can argue with his assertion that
the Klondike gold field had to come under the
umbrella of consolidation if production were to be
sustained. According to Rodney, Dawson was a
“singularly poor’ choice for a townsite (p. 31) —

a claim that does not hold up when the exigencies
of transportation and the limitations of all northern
townsites are taken into account. Two minor errors
might be noted: the Yukon Ditch was 70, not 40,
miles long as mentioned on p.65, and the Yukon
Consolidated Gold Corporation did not terminate
its operations in 1961 (p. 88) but 1966.

Gordon Bennett
Historic Research Section
Parks Canada

charbon de bois, dans le cadre d’un ouvrage sur le
pain. Quant a la technique de Ja cuisson du pain
dans un chaudron de fonte enterré sous les cendres
chaudes et la braise, elle est trés intéressante. Mais
nous aurions aimé que |’auteur nous en dise un peu
plus, surtout que nous I’avons vu décrite dans plu-
sieurs études ou ouvrages se rapportant a la vie
traditionnelle en Nouvelle-Angleterre et dans le
Haut-Canada.

Les deuxiéme et troisiéme parties, pour uti-
liser le vocabulaire de |’auteur, portent sur les
aspects spiritue/s du four et du pain, leur symbo-
lisme et leur folklore. Des sujets aussi variés les
uns que les autres, transmis par la tradition orale,

y sont décrits: le four et le pain, symboles de
l’attachement aux traditions, de la vie champétre

et du ‘bon Canadien”; le four et le pain comme
images de l'homme et de ses sentiments secrets, en
particulier ce qui regarde la vie sexuelle; la person-
nification du four et du pain qui culmine dans le
baptéme du four, lors de sa construction; le four a
pain et les thémes de la délivrance et de /a punition.
Pour appuyer ses dires, l’auteur a pris la peine de
tirer de nombreux exemples, chansons et contes,
de la tradition populaire. || en résulte un assemblage
extrémement vivant de faits qui donnent au four et
au pain un tout autre aspect. Ce ne sont plus de
simples objets inertes que nous avons devant nous,
mais des objets qui vivent de la vie de ceux qui les
ont fabriqués et qui les utilisent.....

En somme, un petit livre bien écrit et facile a
lire, séduisant par le sujet qu'il traite et par son
approche, auquel on pourrait cependant reprocher
un certain manque de profondeur tant du point de
vue historique que des faits rapportés, car nous
savons qu'il existe beaucoup plus de matériel
ethnographique et de documents écrits sur les fours
a pain et le pain que nous I|’a présenté M. Dupont
dans son ouvrage. Mais peut-étre que tel n’était pas
l'idée de l’auteur d’épuiser le sujet complétement
et qu’il a voulu formuler, en tant que folkloriste, une
ceuvre de facture populaire et, sans s’‘embarrasser
de trop nombreux détails, une premiére synthése
groupant les faits, gestes et paroles, se rapportant
au pain. En cela, il a presque réussi.

Marcel Moussette
Division de la Recherche
Section d‘histoire de la
culture matériel/le

Parcs Canada

ah

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"

Descending from Mount Logan.

Amorce de retour aprés Il’ascen-
sion du mont Logan.

Hans Fuhrer

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP,
Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
©I|nformation Canada, Ottawa 1976

INA Publication No. OS-7021-010-BB-A1

Editors: Sheila Crutchlow,
Madeleine Doyon

Production: Barry P. Boucher
Design: Jacques Charette and
Associates Ltd.

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.
Translations of articles in the other official
language are available on request from

The Editor, Conservation Canada, Information
Services, Department of Indian and

Northern Affairs, Ottawa, K1A OH4.

To have your name added to our mailing list
please write to the above address.
Conservation Canada is a quarterly
publication.

Publié par Parcs Canada avec |’autorisation
de |‘hon. Judd Buchanan, CP, député,
ministre des Affaires indiennes et du Nord
©lnformation Canada, Ottawa, 1976
Publication AIN N° OS-7021-010-BB-A1

Rédaction: Madeleine Doyon, Sheila Crutchlow
Production: Barry P. Boucher
Graphisme: Jacques Charette et
Associés Ltée

On peut reproduire les textes 4 condition

d’en indiquer la provenance. Pour obtenir la
traduction d’articles rédigés dans |’autre
langue officielle, il suffit d’en faire la demande
au Rédacteur, Conservation Canada,
Direction de l'information, Division de Parcs
Canada, Ministére des Affaires indiennes et
du Nord, Ottawa, K1A OH4.

S’adresser a la méme personne pour s’inscrire
a la liste d’envoi. Conservation Canada
parait quatre fois |’an.

Contents

Conservation
Canada

Success on Mount Logan

Rob Duncan

Les cavernes de Castleguard Jacques Fleury 8
Challenge Under the Glacier

Fort Wellington Joan Sadkowski 18
Lieu mouvant, jamais Marc Trudel 20
pareil a lui-méme

Klondike treasure unearthed Lynn Mustard 25
Etc - oa 30

Welcome to volume two of Conser-
vation Canada. This issue we take our
readers up and under two of the most
spectacular mountains in the country.
First up — to the summit of Mount
Logan in Kluane National Park with an
ambitious Parks Canada mountain-
eering team determined to conquer
Canada's highest peak. Then, under
— Mount Castleguard in Banff Na-
tional Park with a group of speleolo-
gists and their accompanying film
crew to explore Castleguard Cave,
the longest cave in Canada and one
of our very special places.

As well, we have the story
behind a modern day treasure from
the Klondike gold fields and a poetic
dissertation on Elk Island National
Park by its naturalist Marc Trudel.
Finally, a brief glimpse into the kind
of enthusiasm generated by a bunch
of kids when interpreters test a recipe
aimed at enticing their most junior
audiences.

Ce numéro nous plonge dans |’action,
heureusement tempérée par un dé-
tour a Elk Island et a fort Wellington.
Méme en plein juillet, les plus
hauts glaciers du Yukon sont pour
ainsi dire inabordables. Pourtant, des
gens du parc Kluane se hissaient
|‘été dernier au sommet du mont
Logan, le plus élevé au pays. Autre
aventure qui requérait de rares qua-
lités d’'endurance, le tournage d’un
film a l‘intérieur des cavernes du mont
Castleguard dans les Rocheuses.
Enfin, une pompe a vapeur, abandon-
née sous les déchets miniers, érigée
au début du siécle par un chercheur
d‘or qui voulait vendre de |’eau, devait
déménager a Bear Creek, prés de
Dawson. Or, c’était un mastodonte.
Dans une mer de champs cul-
tivés, en Alberta, Elk Island abrite
étangs, herbes folles, arbres et bétes.
Et a fort Wellington, par la magie
du geste, on devient soldat britan-
nique du siécle dernier.

Volume 2 no 1, 1976 3

$s u ccess on

fiount Logar n .

A Parks Canada First

by Rob Duncan “photos . Hans Fuhrer

—_— ~— On July 11,1975, two members of a
f Parks Canada climbing expedition
became the highest standing members”
_ of the Canadian Civil Service. They
lay claim to this distinction by reach- —
— ._. ingthe summit of Mount Logan,
ot panaseeriohest mountain. :
ee Kluane National Park, located in
| ite Southwest corner of Canada’s |
| Sel Nukon Territory encompasses a large |
- ene ae on _gection of the St. Elias Mountain
aa ~~ aad Icefield Ranges. The St. Elias
* *- region is an endless sea of snow and
_— ice where gaping crevasses plunge
Sees _ to great depths and monstrous moun-
tains soar up thousands of feet. The

alte

Fuane Mountains are also within the

~» Park. While considerably smaller than

the St.Elias giants, this rarge still
boasts some highly impressive peaks.
The Kluane Range is accessible

from the Alaska Highway and presents
the enthusiast with hiking plus rock
and ice climbing opportunities. Moun-
taineering in this area falls under

the alpine classification and while
climbers must-register in and out at

__ Kluane Park Headquarters, such
‘activity is not considered an expedi-
tion. A pamphlet entitled General
Information On The St. Elias Moun-

tains, Kluane National Park provides
useful information.on the park’s
other mountain range. Climbing in this.

region is considered an expedition

for which-one must meet stringent

signed by a physician says: ‘The
climber will be carrying heavy loads
(often 60-90 Ibs.) at altitudes between
10,000 ft. and 19,000 ft. conditions
vary from intense snow glare with
temperatures as high as‘90°F to -
storms with winds over 100 .m.p-h and
temperatures below — 402 PE xpe-
ditions usually last'from two to six
weeks. Prolonged confinement within
cramped tents or snow’caves due to
bad weather often-occurs. Rescue may
be exceedingly slow. and uncertain

in case of serious injury or illness”.

To have unqualified people
attempt mountaineering in such an
area would be to allow a suicide mis=
sion. Climbing inthe St. Elias Range
can be arisky:business even for the
most experienced: climber. lt was with
this ia mind-that Hans Fuhrer, (Alpine

“Specialist for the Kluane National
Park Warden Service) organized an

. *

A National Parks expedition had
ventured a summit attempt in 1973.
At about the same time a Japanese ex-
pedition set out to climb the moun-
tain. Due to weather conditions (ter-
rible) the Parks expedition turned
back but the Japanese, after coming
all this way, refused to quit. They were
successful but only after an incredible
forty-eight days, of which merely
ten were fit to travel.

To discover the St. Elias area is
to discover the world’s largest ice-
fields outside polar regions, not to
mention Canada’s highest mountain
ranges. Park wardens such as Hans
Fuhrer, Ron Chambers and Lloyd
Freese, after experiencing the area
first hand, will be better prepared for

expedition to climb Mount Logan.
He felt that exposure of Kluane Park
Rescue Team members to this, the
King of the St. Elias Range, was an
endurance test imperative to develop-
ing skills needed in rescue operations.
The expedition included two other
park wardens, Ron Chambers and
Lloyd Freese, and Dr. Drummond
Rennie, a member of the Arctic
Institute of North America (A.I.N.A.).
The group was flown to the
Mount Logan area and disembarked at
the King Trench, 11,000 ft. Eleven
days later they reached Dr. Rennie’s
final destination, the Arctic Institute
Physiology Research Cam at 17,500
ft. During their ascent to this point,
they had experienced a near fatal ice

Expedition leader Hans Fuhrer,
Chief Park Warden, Kluane
National Park.

Le meneur de I’expédition,
Hans Fuhrer, garde en chef du
parc national Kluane.

avalanche plus normal acclimatization
annoyances. Climbers must acclima-
tize (become accustomed to their new
environment) as they gain altitude.
Above 15,000 ft. it is only advisable
to gain about 500 ft. per day, without
returning to a lower altitude to accli-
matize. Severe storms had confined
the party to their tents for two of these
first eleven days.

The wee hours of the following
day saw the park trio departing from
the A.I.N.A. Camp and setting their
sights on the summit. Finally, pin-
nacles of the St. Elias Range spread
out below as expedition members
stood 19,500 ft. above sea level. They
had reached the west peak of Mount
Logan. The hungry eye of their camera
opened and closed, recording this
geographic spectacular in the indelible
mind of film.

Radio communication, which the
expedition maintained with the out-
side world, acted only as an audible
intrusion in a land where nature’s tune
is number one. Prospects of being
picked up by air transport at high alti-
tudes seemed very dismal, so the
expedition descended. They were
picked up at King Trench where,
twenty-five days earlier it had all
begun. As the helicopter whisked them
towards Park Headquarters the
weather closed in behind and re-
mained miserable for the next ten days.

rescue work which may be neces-
sary in the future. They learned that
this is an area to be respected, where
winds issue ominous warnings and
every crevasse mouth says ‘watch
your step’’. Yet for those who are
prepared, an expedition in the St.
Elias range is perhaps the finest way
to discover one of Kluane National
Park’s most exciting facets.

Rob Duncan Is a summer student with
the Engineering and Architecture
Division of Parks Canada in Winnipeg.

Base camp at King’s Trench
(11,000 ft) Queen Peak in
background.

Point de départ de |’expédition:
King Trench, 11,000 pieds
d’altitude. A I’arriére-plan, le
mont Queen.

Camping in the shadow of
King’s Peak.

Campement cette fois au col
King. Et voila le pic King.

His smile of triumph somewhat
muffled, Ron Chambers poses at
the summit of Mount Logan
Wi9;850 ft).

Enfin au sommet! Altitude
19,850 pieds. Cet homme emmi-
touflé, c'est Ron Chambers,
garde 4 Kluane.

A spectacular view of the expe-
dition at Icefall Camp

(15,700 ft).

Altitude 15,700 pieds. La tente
fut dressée pres d’une statue
de glace.

pean
uu
i

Le 77 juillet dernier, des alpinistes du
parc national Kluane atteignaient le
sommet du mont Logan, le plus élevé
au pays. Une premiére tentative en
1973 s 6tait heurtée 4 des tempétes
qui en avaient eu raison.

Le parc, situé au sud-ouest du
Yukon, est traversé par deux chaines:
les monts Kluane et les monts St.
Elias. Les premiers, longés par la
route de /’Alaska, sont a la mesure de
Sportifs en bonne forme. Quant aux
seconds, i/s reguiérent plus gue des
aptitudes. |/ faut une santé exception-
nelle et /e parc exige un certificat
médical spécial pour en permettre
l’ascension. Le vent, le froid, la neige,
‘altitude surtout mettent les auda-
cieux a rude épreuve. L’expédition
dure plusieurs semaines. Durant la
tempéte, i/ n'y a d’autre issue gue
den attendre /a fin sous la tente ou
dans une antfranctuosité de roc ou
de neige.

Aussi i/ faut prévoir la formation
d'une éguipe de secours en cas
d’urgence. Quel mei//eur apprentis-
sage gue de gravir soi-méme le mont
Logan, le plus hardi de la chaine
St. Elias? Ainsi, Hans Fuhrer, alpi-
niste a Kluane, partait |"été dernier
avec deux gardes du parc.

Portée par hélicopteére a une
altitude de que/gue 17,000 pi/eds,
léguipe arrivait onze jours plus tard,
ayant été retenue deux jours par la
tempéte, a un centre de recherche
physiologique situé environ 650 pieds
plus haut. C’était le but du voyage
d’un spécialiste de l’arctique gui ac-
compagnait le groupe. Puls /e trio
continua j/usgu'au sommet. Heureuse-
ment i/ faisait beau 419,854 pieds
d’altitude ce jour-la au Yukon, i/ était
possible de photographier les monts
environnants. Enfin, hélicoptere
venait cuel/lir au méme endroit les
hommes gu'il avait déposeés vingt-cing
jours auparavant, hommes qui savent
maintenant de guelle manieére les
monts St. Elias se défendent.

Voila une stalactite étrange.
Contrairement a ses soeurs
d’autres grottes, elle a di se
plier aux caprices du vent qui
traverse son abri. D’oll vient ce
vent? On ne sait pas. Apparem-
ment, la caverne na qu'une
ouverture.

Mysterious cave winds have
sculpted this twisted stalagtite
over the many centuries of its
formation.

“‘Les cavernes du mont Castle-
guard ont ignoré les lois de la nature.
Elles sont froides, humides, obscures,
et rien ou presque rien ne devrait
se développer en de telles conditions.
Pourtant, elles abritent les stalac-
tites et les stalagmites les plus vieilles
et les plus magnifiques au Canada.”

L’auteur de cette observation
n'est pas le dernier venu en matiére
de formation des cavernes. Derek
Ford, professeur de géologie a |’uni-
versité McMaster, est spéléologue
depuis quelque 27 années. Depuis
lage de 12 ans, il a exploré pres de
800 cavernes a travers le monde,
“certaines, plus de 100 fois”’.

En avril 1974, lui-méme et une
€quipe de spéléologues ont exploré
les cavernes du mont Castleguard,
dans le parc national Banff, en Alber-
ta. Leur but était de tourner un film
qui permettrait a tous les Canadiens
de découvrir cette région inaccessible.

Des cavernes particuliéres

Les cavernes de Castleguard
contredisent une hypothése généra-
lement bien acceptée a savoir que
les stalactites et les stalagmites de
grande dimension, trés fines et délica-
tement sculptées, se développent
exclusivement dans les régions tro-
picales.

Cette hypothése se vérifie dans
la plupart des cavernes des mon-
tagnes Rocheuses. Les stalactites et

les stalagmites y sont peu nom-
breuses, plus petites, moins élabo-
rées, tres simples, minuscules, et
parfois trés rares.

Mais il n’en est pas ainsi dans
les cavernes du mont Castleguard.
La section centrale de ces grottes ren-
ferme une quantité infinie de su-
perbes stalactites et stalagmites
toutes trés pures, immaculées ou ro-
sées. Pourtant, ce sont les couloirs
les plus élevés au monde. Trés froids,
ils passent sous une montagne dont
le sommet s’éléve a plus de 3,000
métres (10,000 pieds) d’altitude. Ils
serpentent sous un glacier pour for-
mer une caverne unique au monde.

Cette particularité pose aux sa-
vants une énigme de taille. Toutefois,
ce n'est pas la seule. De récentes
explorations ont mené a la découverte
d’un deuxiéme couloir, mais per-
sonne ne s’y est aventuré jusqu’a
présent.

Crues subites

Les difficultés techniques ont
été telles qu’aucune expédition ne
s'est encore risquée a explorer ces
gouffres. ‘‘Deux spéléologues ont
failli laisser leur peau 4 Castleguard,
révele Derek Ford. Ils étaient partis
en exploration pour 24 heures afin de
se rendre le plus loin possible. Au
retour, ils étaient 6puisés. Une crue
subite des eaux avait scellé le pas-
sage et ils se sont vus soudainement

“Mount Castleguard’s caves ignore
the laws of nature. They are cold,
humid and dark and under these con-
ditions almost nothing should have
developed. Nevertheless, they contain
some of the oldest and most magni-
ficent stalactites and stalagmites in
Canada.”

The person making this state-
ment has great expertise in the field
of cave formation, Dr. Derek Ford
of McMaster University, has been a
speleologist for some 27 years. He
has explored some 800 caves through-
out the world since he was 12 years
old, and has visited some of them
more than 100 times. He and a group
of speleologists explored Castle-
guard cave in Banff National Park in
April of 1974.

A number of earlier attempts
by a variety of cavers had resulted
only in a partial exploration of the
cave. Determined to go “all the way”,
Dr. Ford gathered together a thirty-
person film crew to accompany the
five-man exploration team in the hope
of capturing on film, the penetration
of what they knew would prove to be
a remarkable cave.

Astonishingly, not only did the
team succeed in following the cave
the full seven and a half miles to its
emergence under the Columbia ice-
field but the entire venture was
recorded in the film Castleguard
Cave: Challenge Under the Glacier.

Castleguard contradicts the
generally held theory that large, or-
nate calcite formations develop
only in tropical regions; a theory that

prisonniers, emmurés.”’

Une équipe de secours est par-
venue a les tirer de ce mauvais pas.
‘Le niveau de l'eau avait baissé de 18
centimétres (7 pouces) et nous
avons pu les sortir de la sains et
saufs, précise Ford. Dix minutes plus
tard, l’‘issue s’est bouchée a nou-
veau, pour les 19 jours suivants.”

A cause de ces crues subites et
fréquentes, les spéléologues ont
décidé de n’explorer ces cavernes
qu’en hiver. Cette décision a certes
amoindri les risques d’accident,
mais des ennuis d’‘un autre ordre ont
surgi: une caverne n’est guére con-
fortable en hiver. Surtout si elle pé-
nétre sous le champ de glace le
plus massif et le plus étendu du
Canada.

Température

L’entrée de la caverne est située
a 2,100 métres (6,500 pieds) d’al-
titude et le couloir gravit une pente
d‘un peu plus de 300 métres (1,000
pieds). Aprés avoir marché, rampé,
trimé dur pendant plus de 11 kilo-
métres (sept milles), les spéléologues
atteignent la fin de |’un des couloirs
sous le grand champ de glace Colum-
bia. En cours de route, ils passent
directement sous le sommet de la
montagne. Prés de 1,000 métres
(3,000 pieds) de roc et de glace s‘en-
tassent alors au-dessus de leurs tétes.

La température environnante
rend leur progression encore plus la-
borieuse. Pour comprendre le phé-
nomeéne, il suffit de penser a un tube
incliné, comme le suggére Derek

is based on the fact that stalagmites
and stalactites are rare in alpine caves
and those that exist are mainly very
small and simple.

Not so in Castleguard! The
central section of the grottos contain
a multitude of superb, very pure
white or pinkish calcite formations.
Yet it is the most alpine of environ-
ments, meandering under a mountain
whose altitude reaches 10,000 feet
(3,000 metres) on which rests the
largest alpine glacier in the world.

It is a peculiar riddle and made
more complex by the recent knowl-
edge that at least one other cave
exists adjacent to that already ex-
plored although no one has ventured
into it as yet.

Sudden Floods

Technical difficulties have been
so great that no single expedition
has yet taken the risk of exploring the
recently discovered gallery.

“Two cavers almost lost their
lives in Castleguard”’, revealed Dr.
Ford. “‘They left on a 24-hour trip in-
tending to cover the greatest dis-
tance possible in the time. Exhausted
upon their return journey, they
stopped for a rest and a sudden rise
in the water level sealed off the pas-
sage and they found themselves pri-
soners in a walled-in cage.

The level receded to seven
inches and a rescue team was able to
get them out safely. Within ten min-
utes of their escape, the water level
again rose suddenly and the exit was
closed off for another 19 days.”’

Dans Les Rocheuses au parc
national Banff, le mont Castle-
guard haut de 10,000 pieds,
cache le cheminement de ses
couloirs intérieurs.

Mount Castleguard.

Explorateurs, cuisiniers, un
meédecin, équipe de tournage: en
tout trente personnes s’apprétent

a démystifier la caverne de

Castleguard.

The 30-person crew including
the 5-man exploration team and
some of the equipment and

supplies.

Une grande fissure.

One of the awesome fissures of
Castleguard.

Ford. ‘‘Nous entrons au point le plus
bas ou, a cette haute altitude, sifflent
des bises glaciales. Le point le plus
élevé atteint le champ de glace Co-
lumbia, un grand glacier, également
trés froid.’’ Le mont Castleguard
recouvre la section centrale des ca-
vernes d’une épaisse couverture

de roc et de glace. C’est la section

la moins froide.

Un violent courant d’air balaie
‘entrée. En hiver, le thermométre
n'y indique guére plus de —8°C.
(20°F). Puis, la température s’éléve
graduellement et elle atteint O°C.
(32°F.), € environ un demi-mille de
l‘entrée. Le mercure monte ensuite
péniblement jusqu’au point le moins
froid 2°C. (37°F.) puis, tombe
rapidement a O°C. (32°F.), a proxi-
mité du champ de glace Columbia.

Le froid et |‘humidité traversent
en un rien de temps les combinai-
sons des spéléologues, qui ne peuvent
s’embarrasser de trop de vétements.
Apres quelques minutes d’escalades
ou de descentes, ils sont inondés de
sueurs. S‘ils se reposent, ils de-
viennent vite transis et leurs muscles
risquent de se contracter. Par sur-
croit, les bassins d’eau glacée forment
des obstacles qu’ils doivent con-
tourner.

L’Everest des abimes

Voici comment les cavernes de
Castleguard mettent 4 rude épreuve
l"expérience, |’endurance, |’adresse et
la robustesse de ceux qui osent sy
aventurer. Elles sont longues et com-
portent plusieurs embiches bien

Because of the frequent and
sudden flooding, speleologists have
decided to explore Castleguard only
during the frozen months of winter.
Although this decision has decreased
the risk of accidents, it has resulted in
a number of nuisances related to the
discomfort of crawling through an
ice-lined cave in below zero temper-
atures.

Temperatures

The cave’s entrance is located
at an altitude of 6,500 feet (2,100
metres) and the speleologist must
work, climb and crawl upward,
another 1000 feet (300 metres) over
the seven and a half miles to the
end of the tunnel, an abrupt wall of
ice under the Columbia icefield. On
the way they must pass directly
under the top of the mountain at which
point, they are conscious of 1000
feet (300 metres) of rock and ice
resting serenly, above their heads.

The cave can be likened to a
tilted tube. Glacial winds blast the
entrance, the cave’s lowest point, and
the highest point under the icefield
is almost as cold. The thick layer of
rock and ice of Mount Castleguard
which covers the central section keeps
temperatures comfortably higher.
During the winter the thermometer
rarely reaches more than minus 08°C
(20°F ) rising to freezing about half
a mile in. Thereafter the temperature
slowly rises to a height of 2°C
(37°F) and falls sharply again to
freezing near the icefield.

The cold and dampness pene-

Le plancher s’effondre, un puits
d'une profondeur inconnue em
péche d‘avancer. || faut lancer
une échelle de corde, aller jus
qu au fond, puis remonter. Cette
cavite de 80 pieds est située a
prés de deux milles de |’entrée

The first major shaft — an 80 foot
drop almost two miles trom the
entrance.

Pour contourner le probleme
posé par la crue des eaux, l’expé

dition a lieu I’hiver. Mais sur un
parcours de 900 pieds environ
la voite est si basse qu'il faut

ramper sur la glace.

Looking easy, the 300 yard ice
crawl is uncomfortable and
difficult.

Vingt-sept batteries de moto-
neige alimentaient |’éclairage
nécessaire au tournage. C’est le
moment de les recharger.

Recharging some of the 27
12-volt batteries used as a power
source by the film crew.

dissimulées. Failles, puits, gouffres,
tout contribue a empécher les spé-
léologues de progresser. Seuls quel-
ques passages sont faciles a franchir.
Et, bien sar, elles ne tolérent
pas d’apprentis, car les riques d’acci-
dents sont trés grands. ‘’Si quelqu’un
se blessait griévement, précise Derek
Ford, il n’aurait que trés peu de
chances de s’en tirer. En somme, les
spéléologues y rencontrent les mémes
obstacles que les alpinistes a |’as-
saut des plus hautes cimes de I|‘Hi-
malaya. Ces cavernes sont, a n’en
point douter, |’Everest des abimes.”’

Fissures

Les longues et étroites fissures
verticales constituent une autre carac-
téristique des cavernes de Castle-
guard. Elles atteignent des profon-
deurs de 12 4 25 métres (40 a 80
pieds) et courent sur plusieurs milles.
De véritables canyons souterrains.

Trés minces, ces fissures ont
été formées par |’érosion qui a com-
mencé le long de la voUte et qui a
découpé des parois verticales comme
dans un canyon. Elles sont si étroites
qu'on ne peut marcher sur le plancher
des cavernes, qui leur céde la place.

Il faut alors avancer en utilisant
comme prises de pied, les minuscules
saillies des parois. Dans de tels cas,
|’exploration se révéle particuliére-
ment ardue. Souvent, les parois suin-
tantes et trés glissantes n’offrent pas
de saillies.

L’absence de telles saillies
oblige le spéléologue a remonter
ou a descendre pour poursuivre sa

trate caver’s clothing in no time. Be-
cause they cannot be hindered by

too many clothes, they are bathed in
sweat within a few minutes of
strenuous climbing. Resting results in
cooling and the risk of-chills and
cramped muscles.

The Mount Everest of

the Caves

The Castleguard caves really
test experience, endurance, skills and
ruggedness of those venturing
into them. They are long and contain
several well-hidden traps. Faults,
shafts and abysses all hinder the
cavers progress. Only a few passages
are easy to cross.

These caves are definitely not
for the novice, because the risk of
accidents is very high. “lf someone
were to be seriously injured, there
would be little chance that he would
get out’’, Derek Ford explained. “‘In
short, the speleologists have to over-
come the same obstacles as the
mountain climbers meet on the high-
est slopes of the Himalayas. These
caves are undoubtedly the Mount
Everest of the caves”.

Fissures

Long, narrow vertical fissures
are another characteristic of the
Castleguard caves. Their depth va-
ries from 40 to 80 feet (12 to 25
meters) and their length often reaches
several miles. They are veritable un-
derground canyons.

These fissures were formed by
erosion that started along the ceiling.

Un canif permet d‘évaluer la
dimension de ces perles sur le

sol. Perles, car elles se dévelop-
pent comme dans une huitre. Un
grain de sable devient le centre
de dép6ts calcaires.

Cave pearls are formed by even
layers of calcium deposited
about minute grains of sand.

1o)

Métro.
The subway.

route. Il s’arc-boutera des pieds sur la
paroi qui lui fait face, et appuiera

son dos sur |’autre pour se maintenir
en équilibre au-dessus de la fissure.
Ces passages s’avérent les plus épui-
sants des cavernes.

Satisfactions

Si les cavernes de Castleguard
présentent un grand nombre de diffi-
cultés, elles procurent en retour un
nombre égal de satisfactions. Elles
sont en quelque sorte un chef-
d'oeuvre de sculptures taillées par
I’érosion. ‘On me considére géné-
ralement comme un spécialiste de la
formation des cavernes, signale M.
Ford, et jamais, de toutes les cavernes
que jai explorées a travers le
monde, n’en ai-je rencontré une seule
qui maintienne sur une telle dis-
tance, des formes et des dimensions
semblables a celles-ci.”’

Il s’agit vraiment de deux ca-
vernes dont I’une est formée d’une
série de grands puits et de fissures
trés abruptes. Au milieu, s’étale une
fracture. La caverne semble effec-
tuer des soubresauts. Le décor change
constamment. Voici les galeries,
elles sont superbes. Chaque virage
offre une vue totalement différente
et tout aussi splendide. Puis, les spé-
léologues entament la seconde
grande section des cavernes ou se
succédent une grande fissure, un
puits, une paroi verticale, une autre
grande fissure, un puits, une esca-
lade, et c’est fini.

Les cavernes de Castleguard
ressemblent donc a deux ensembles

It has cut vertical walls in the cave,
as it would in a canyon. They are so
narrow that one is unable to walk

on their bottoms.

Progress must then be made by
using the minuscule protrusions of
the walls as footholds. Under these
circumstances, exploration proves
to be especially difficult. Quite often,
the slick, sweating walls offer no
foothold at all.

The lack of such protrusions
forces the speleologist to climb or
descend in order to proceed. He
braces himself with his feet against
the wall facing him and with his
back against the other wall to main-
tain his balance above the fissure.
These passages are the most ex-
hausting in the caves.

Satisfactions

Even though Castleguard
Caves present a large number of dif-
ficulties, they also provide a great
deal of satisfaction. They form a fine
erosional scenery. Dr. Ford, who is
considered to be a specialist in caves
and has seen many caves throughout
the world but never one “‘that fea-
tures, over such a long distance,
shapes and dimensions similar to
those of these caves”’.

In fact, there are two caves, one
of which is formed by a series of
large shafts and very abrupt fissures.
There is a fracture in the centre. This
cave seems to have gone through
many upheavals. The setting changes
constantly. There are superb gal-
leries. Each turn offers a totally dif-

Une image sur le mur. Des bulles
d’air prises dans la glace.

Etrange reflet d’un monticule
de glace.

Portions of cave walls are
decorated by air bubbles trapped

in ice.

Examining an ice mound on the
floor of a small chamber.

trés simples, réunis au centre par
des galeries d’une architecture hau-
tement élaborée.

Un laboratoire unique

Les cavernes de Castleguard
ont encore plus d’attraits pour les
spécialistes: elles constituent un labo-
ratoire unique ou ils peuvent étu-
dier dans des conditions hautement
favorables, le phénoméne de la
glaciation. Les stalactites et les sta-
lagmites qu’elles préservent sont
d’une richesse inestimable pour
l‘avancement des connaissances dans
ce domaine.

Grace aux données que recélent
ces formations minéralogiques, les
chercheurs espérent pouvoir établir
un diagramme de |’évolution de la
température a la base du champ de
glace Columbia, I’une des derniéres
masses de l’ére des glaciations au
Canada.

Jusqu’ici, ils ont été plus que
comblés. Ils ont trouvé dans les
cavernes de Castleguard une stalag-
mite vieille de 140,000 ans. Ce sont
donc de trés vieilles cavernes, au
moins plus vieilles que les deux der-
niéres glaciations qui ont recouvert
le sud de |’Ontario.

C’est afin de présenter aux Cana-
diens un document sur ce laboratoire
unique que fut approuvé a Parcs
Canada le tournage d'un film sur ces
cavernes exceptionnelles. Certes, le
projet présentait beaucoup d’intérét,
mais il a exigé des spéléologues des
efforts peu communs.

La plus grande difficulté fut

Au bord d’un puits de 30 pieds a
300 pieds de |’entrée, un homme
signale le départ de la caméra.

Filming in the grottoes.

ferent view, as splendid as the one
preceding it. The speleologists then
move on to the second large section
of the caves where they find, in quick
succession, a large fissure, a shaft,

a vertical wall, another large fissure,
another shaft, and finally, a steep
slope.

Therefore, the Castleguard Caves
resemble two very simple masses.
united in the centre by a network of
galleries containing highly orna-
mented features.

A Unique Laboratory

The Castleguard Caves are even
more attractive to the specialist: they
constitute a unique laboratory where
one can study glaciation under highly
favourable conditions. The stalac-
tites and stalagmites preserved in
these caves represent an invaluable
source of knowledge, in this
field.

Thanks to data revealed by these
mineral formations, researchers
hope to be able to build up a picture
of the evolution of the temperature
at the base of the Columbia icefield,
one of the last masses dating back
to the Ice Age in Canada.

Until now they have been more
than satisfied. They found, in the
Castleguard Caves, a stalagmite that
is 140,000 years old, older than the
last two big glaciations that came
down and buried Southern Ontario.

/n order to present a document
concerning this unique laboratory
to Canadians, Parks Canada approved
the making of a film on these excep-

Tournage d'une escalade en
encoignure.

Filming within the confines of
the cave posed a whole new set
of problems for the film crew.

l’éclairage de ces dédales tout a fait
impraticables. Pour résoudre cet
important probleme technique, il a
fallu transporter dans les moindres
recoins des cavernes de Castle-
guard 27 batteries de motoneiges,
de 12 volts chacune. Cette opéra-
tion a mobilisé une trentaine de per-
sonnes bien que seuls cing spé-
léologues apparaissent a |’écran.

Est-il nécessaire d’ajouter que
le tournage s’est déroulé en deux
périodes de neuf jours, espacées
d’‘une période de trois jours? Au cours
de la premiére étape, les spéléo-
logues ont quitté chaque jour leur
Camp de base pour se rendre sur
le plateau, a l’intérieur des cavernes.
Cette opération était quelque peu
exténuante a la longue.

Pour la seconde étape, tout le
matériel nécessaire fut transporté
au point le plus éloigné de |’entrée,
soit a six kilométres (4 milles) a
l’intérieur. C’est en travaillant a re-
bours, systématiquement, chaque
jour, pendant 10, 14, 16, 18 et méme
20 heures par jour, que |’équipe a
filmé les séquences les plus belles,
mais aussi les plus difficiles: les
grottes et les fissures.

Dans cette optique, Les cavernes
de Castleguard constitue un docu-
mentaire particuliérement intéressant
qui pourrait sans doute remporter
la palme parmi les films réalisés sur
les emplacements et dans les con-
ditions les plus difficiles.

Jacques Fleury est agent
d'information a Parcs Canada.

tional caves. True, the project proved
to be very interesting, but it required
very great efforts on the part of the
speleologists.

Lighting these entirely inacces-
sible labyrinths proved. to be the
greatest difficulty. In order to solve
this important technical problem,

27 snowmobile batteries, at 12 volts
each, had to be carried into every
corner of the Castleguard Caves. This
operation required some thirty per-
sons, even though only five speleolo-
gists appeared on the screen.

The film was shot in two nine-
day periods each with a three-day
interval. During the first phase, the
speleologists left their base camp
every day to go inside the caves. At
the end, this operation proved to be
somewhat exhausting.

During the second phase, all
the equipment was transported to the
point farthest removed from the
entrance, 4 miles (6 kilometers)
inside the caves. Systematically
backtracking, working 10-hour, 14-
hour, 76-hour, 18-hour and even
20-hour days, the team filmed the
most beautiful but also the most
difficult sequences: the grottoes and
the fissures.

It was incredibly hard work for
the 30 participants, under the worst
possible conditions for film making
but the results were gratifying from
both scientific and aesthetic points
of view.

Jacques Fleury is an Information
Officer with Parks Canada.

Stalactites et stalagmites sortent
un instant et a jamais de leur nuit
plusieurs fois millénaire.
Stalactites d’une variété dont
M. Ford, qui a visité quelque
800 cavernes, ne prévoyait pas
la présence.

The variety of calcite and ice
formations in Castleguard cave
are astonishing even to
speleologists.

Take an enormous Curiosity

Une grande curiosité

18

Add plenty of friendly motivation

Quelques indications judicieuses

At Fort Wellington,
It's Time for Kids

Photo story by Joan Sadkowski

Kids have been coming to Fort Wel-
lington National Historic Park in
Prescott, Ontario for years — to play
soldiers in an authentic atmosphere;
with school groups as part of a history
curriculum and sometimes with their
parents on hot summer days to stroll
beautifully manicured lawns.

Last summer, for the first time,
a special program was designed and
conducted by the guiding staff of
Fort Wellington for their youngest
visitors.

Using photographs, artifacts
and audio-visual presentations, the
children discovered why the fort
is in their town and what it was like
to live there as a soldier in the nine-
teenth century.

On a once-a-week basis over
four consecutive weeks, the children
learned about the life of a British
soldier, The Battle of the Windmill,
fortifications and through an artifact
hunt, the nitty-gritty differences a
century makes on our lives.

Highlighting the sessions was
the DOING! singing, marching,
making beds in short, learning.

Gestes d’hier pour
apprendre aujourd ‘hui

Idées et photos de Joan Sadkowski

Le fort Wellington est pour les gens
de Prescott et des alentours de cette
ville ontarienne, une présence fami-
liére, avec ses remparts, ses meur-
triéres, ses buttes verdoyantes |’été.
Pour les enfants, c’est un lieu de
promenade le dimanche, |’endroit révé
pour jouer au soldat ou I’occasion
d‘un cours d’histoire avec la classe.

Mais qu’est-ce que ca pouvait
6tre au juste que d’y 6tre cantonné au
siécle dernier comme soldat de Sa
Majesté britannique? Voila qui nest
pas si simple.

Les guides du fort ont pensé
l’été dernier amener les jeunes a
mieux imaginer la vie qu’on y menait.
Une fois la semaine pendant un mois
ils les ont invités a reprendre les
gestes de ceux qui ont vécu au fort:
faire les lits a la maniére d‘alors,
chanter et battre le marche comme
a l’époque. Photos, diapositives
et recherches sur le terrain, autant de
moyens du vingtiéme siécle pour
mieux pénétrer le dix-neuviéme.

Observer les outils, objets et
usages d’un temps révolu, c’est toute
une découverte. Voyez ces visages.

Result... rapt attention

L’intérét est a son comble

20

le parc national Elk Island

Marc Trudel is a naturalist at Elk

Island National Park, a rolling aspen
and spruce forest amidst the flat
farmlands near Edmonton, Alberta.

He traces the evolution of the
park from an extensive burn in the
1880's through its stages of grass to
aspen to the present preponderence
of spruce.

Once it was the home of buffalo
and beaver (both hunted to the point
of near-extinction), grizzley, black
bear, wolf and cougar. All became
sadly diminished due to extensive
farming until only the elk remained as
a target for sportsmen. In 1913 a
small group of people concerned
about the fate of the elk, worked to
establish a 16 square-mile area as
a sanctuary. Grown to its present 75

Lieu mouvant, jamais pareil a lui-méme

par Marc Trudel

square miles, Elk Island National
Park today is so well populated with
elk, beaver and buffalo that yearly
culls must be made to keep the animal
populations within manageable |
proportions. Protection of the beaver
has contributed greatly to the rees-
tablishment of the exquisite marshes -
of the park while sales to ranches of |
buffalo to be integrated into domestic
herds has been very successful.

The park is open year-round and |
snowshoeing and cross-country skiing
are favorite winter pastimes. A |
complete interpretive program is
offered to all park visitors and
during the school year, an extensive
educational program is carried
on inthe elementary schoolsinthe —
vicinity. |

S amaimier

llot de vie sauvage entouré d'un océan
d‘orge et de blé, le parc national

Elk Island conserve a |’intérieur de
ses petites frontiéres un milieu
naturel dont le dynamisme est pro-
messe de longue vie. Dynamisme

de sa flore, trés instable, en constante
recherche de son équilibre. Dyna-
misme de sa faune, qui est revenue
pleine de vigueur de sa quasi-
extinction. Dynamisme aussi de son
role éducatif auprés d’un public
voyageur grossi d’un public régional
imposant, provenant d’une capitale,
Edmonton, a moins de trente milles.

Régnes éphéméres

Une des caractéristiques du parc
qui me vient tout de suite a |’esprit
est le caractére changeant et mouvant
de sa végétation. Sous cet aspect,
le parc est champion de I|'instabilité.
L’histoire commence avec la dis-
parition dramatique de son couvert
forestier a la fin des années 1880:
des feux répétés, causés en partie par
l‘insouciance des fermiers nouvel-
lement arrivés, balaient la forét
boréale mixte, formée d’épinettes,
de trembles baumiers et de bou-
leaux, qui constituaient le couvert
climatique de la région des Beaver
Hills. Y fait place un paysage de
collines herbeuses. Seuls quelques
secteurs humides sont épargnés,
ainsi que les nombreuses fles du lac
Astotin qui se tiennent encore au
garde-a-vous comme les sentinelles
d‘un royaume qui n’est plus.

Mais la blonde victoire des
herbes folles est de courte durée.

Le bison des plaines revit a Elk
Island, lui qui était menacé
d’extinction.

Plains bison have made a fine
comeback in Elk Island.

Bientdot apparaissent de nouveaux
envahisseurs: les trembles. Ces
arbres ont le don de se reproduire
par leurs racines, ce qui leur donne
une large avance sur les épinettes
qui doivent attendre la lente germi-
nation de leurs graines. La nou-
velle robe du parc est maintenant
tissée: une vaste tremblaie qui
complote toute la journée avec le
vent, se préparant peut-étre a
étouffer les derniéres clairiéres ...
Mais elle devra faire vite, car |’épi-
nette fait partie du tournoi et réclame
sa revanche: de ses cones éclate la
promesse d’une imposante postérité.
La forét mixte saura renaitre de ses
cendres.

Sous le couvert ombragé de la
tremblaie, le petit monde des rosiers
sauvages, des buissons et des que-
nouilles poursuit lui aussi ses
guerres. Les étangs foisonnent de vie
animale et végétale qui charge le
fond de leurs minces cuvettes d’‘ac-
Cumulations successives de dépéts
Organiques de toutes sortes. Bientdt
les quenouilles entourent |’étang,
l‘assiegent et resserrent chaque an-
née leur étreinte, suivies de prés
par une colonie de laiches qui fixent
les premiers amarrages d’une végé-
tation maintenant terrestre. Se succé-
deront ensuite des saules, des aulnes
et des bouleaux. Ou bien le marais
évoluera en un milieu acide ou la
sphaigne et |’épinette noire domine-
ront. Naturellement, tous ces
efforts s’étendent sur des dizaines
d‘années, et il suffira d’un bar-
rage de castors pour faire renaitre

Griffiths

Dre

la neige.

l"étang et renouveler le cycle...
Ces nombreuses transformations
qui prennent place dans la nature
illustrent bien le caractére éphémére
des diverses communautés végétales
que nous avons I’habitude de re-
garder comme immobiles dans le
temps. Tout est mouvant sous cette
apparente permanence. Et c’est de
ce mouvement que nait un habitat re-
nouvelé, prét a accueillir une grande
diversité de nouveaux locataires.

Un retour de loin

Sur |‘histoire mouvementée de
la vie végétale du parc se calque
I‘histoire tout aussi troublée d'une
partie de sa faune. Comme dans la
premiere, c’est |‘homme blanc qui
ouvre le tournoi.

Peu de temps aprés l|’arrivée des
premiers colons et trappeurs, a la fin
du siécle dernier, le bison et le castor
étaient éliminés des Beaver Hills.
Ces deux espéces, dont des millions
d'individus cent ans plus tot cou-
vraient |’Amérique du Nord, faisaient
face a |’extinction. Furent ensuite
persécutées les espéces qui présen-
taient un obstacle a |l’agriculture et a
|’élevage. C'est ainsi que disparu-
rent, sans protester, le grizzly des
plaines, l’ours noir, le loup et le cou-
gar. Quant au wapiti (de la famille
du chevreuil; e/k en anglais, d’ou le
nom du parc), il devient vite un gibier
de choix en |’absence du bison et
frdle a son tour I’extermination. C’est
a ce moment qu’‘un groupe d’‘Alber-
tains obtient du gouvernement du
pays la création d'une réserve close

Le lac Astotin fin d’automne.
Sous un soleil géné, le matin sent

Autumn sunrise on Astotin Lake.

754

de 16 milles carrés pour protéger

les derniers représentants de |’espéce.

La superficie de cette réserve sera
portée par la suite a 75 milles carrés
et le lieu deviendra un parc national
en 1913.

Ici encore la nature a montré sa
grande force de récupération. Le
wapiti s‘est trés vite remis de ses
miséres et des vingt bétes originelle-
ment capturées pour la réserve est
issue la colonie actuelle de trois cent
cinquante environ. Le dynamisme du
troupeau dépasse méme la capacité
de charge du parc et, en I’absence
de prédateurs sérieux, les gardiens du
parc doivent réguliérement procéder
a un abattage sélectif. Méme retour
prolifique du castor qui, réintroduit en
1942, atteint aujourd’hui une popu-
lation de quelque mille sept cents.

Quant au bison, on pourrait le
qualifier de pensionnaire clandestin:
de 1907 a 1909, un troupeau de
quatre cents bisons des plaines sé-
journe dans le parc en attendant que
soit terminé son propre enclos, a
Wainright, aussi en Alberta. Lors du
rassemblement des bétes, quarante-
huit demeurent introuvables. Ces
hdtes imprévus ont vite atteint le nom-
bre d’environ quatre cents, nombre
que le parc peut supporter. Aux abat-
tages périodiques des premiéres
années a succédé un programme plus
constructif de vente pour |’élevage.
Les succés obtenus jusqu’ici par les
éleveurs Ouvre un nouvel espoir pour
le retour du bison dans les grandes
plaines. Le parc compte aussi un
troupeau d’environ cent bisons des

L’étang est assiégé et conquis
petit a petit par les quenouilles

et les laiches.

Primarily the work of the beaver
which is making a comeback in
Elk Island, the marshes are a
special feature of this National

Park.

22

bois, rares descendants au sang pur
de cette race qui en majorité s’est
confondue par hybridation avec celle
du bison des plaines. Ils sont sévére-
ment cloitrés dans le secteur sud

du parc, depuis leur transport du parc
national Wood Buffalo en 1965. Ils
sont l'objet d’observations méthodi-
ques de la part de chercheurs du
Service canadien de la faune.

Ainsi |‘homme a-t-il réparé
quelques-unes de ses erreurs passées
en secourant certaines espeéces me-
nacées. Pourtant il n’en est qu’au
début de son effort: les réalisations
présentes sont infimes par rapport au
défi qu’il devra relever a l'avenir.

Son succés dépendra de sa capacité
de sensibiliser a temps la masse
des «non-croyants».

Savoir regarder, écouter

Pouvoir lire et comprendre les
événements successifs du rythme de
la nature est a la portée de tous. Tous
les chapitres de cette grande histoire
sont la devant nous. II suffit de pren-
dre le temps, de s’arréter, d’écouter,
de regarder tout pres du sol ce que
nous Cache souvent notre myopie de
gens pressés. II suffit de pénétrer
sur la pointe des pieds dans le pays
de Lilliput, d’y observer |’infiniment
petit, d’'y admirer une fleur qui a gran-
di sans craindre les ciseaux. Faire
les liens entre les indices que nous
laisse la nature, devenir détective,
chercher les causes: il y a toujours
une Cause et, a Elk Island, il y aura
toujours un naturaliste pour vous
aider a connaitre ce petit monde.

Marc Trudel

Le programme d’interprétation
de la nature du parc évolue lui aussi
et doit garder un vif dynamisme pour
s'adapter a notre société changeante
et transmettre, dans le langage de
|‘heure, les valeurs fondamentales du
parc. Le fait que le parc soit situé
tout prés d‘un grand centre urbain
ouvre un vaste horizon a la communi-
cation de ces valeurs.

C'est |’été que le programme
atteint le plus de visiteurs. Dans tous
les cas, les activités du naturaliste
s'éloignent de plus en plus de |’ap-
proche magistrale ou |’on pointerait
les choses du doigt: |’accent porte
sur la participation et l’implication
des visiteurs dans leur immersion tant
physique que psychique dans le mi-
lieu, immersion suivie d’une réflexion
commune et d’un échange d’idées.

La popularité de la raquette et du
ski de fond a ouvert des possibilités
toutes neuves a |’observation de la
nature. Le parc ne connait plus de sai-
son morte. L’équipe d’‘interprétation
a ajusté son horaire a ces goats nou-
veaux et depuis quatre ans offre
ses services a longueur d’année. Le
silence de telles promenades permet
de pénétrer profondément | ‘habitat
des bétes sauvages et de les appro-
cher sans les effrayer. Les tiges cou-
pées, les branches cassées, les pistes
sur la neige, autant d’histoires se-
crétes qui racontent les peines et les
joies des poursuivis et des pour-
suivants.

Il n’est pas étonnant que le pro-
gramme d’interprétation, ayant tant
a offrir, s‘ouvre a un nouvel auditoire,

Mara Trudeal

La conservation du wapiti (elk
en anglais, mot d'origine
mmdienne) fut la cause majeure
de la fondation du parc. En voici
queiques-uns dans une clairiére.

A small herd of elk for which the
park was named, captured in
the late afternoon light of a
forest glade.

celui des écoliers. La région entou-
rant immédiatement le parc compte
plus de 50,000 éléves de niveau
élémentaire. Le personnel du parc ne
pouvait absorber une telle marée.
Aprés une période d’ajustements, de
1966 a 1972. le programme pour
écoliers s’est vraiment structuré en
1973. 1| comporte une période de
formation pour les professeurs im-
pliqués et un systéme d’inscriptions

a l’‘avance pour les groupes. Au
Printemps 1975, prés de 6,000 jeunes
en ont béneficié. Il a permis d’ac-
Croitre la préparation des éléves a leur
visite et de susciter ainsi leur intérét.
On peut ensuite les regrouper et les
Giriger vers leur centre d‘intérét par-
ticulier. De plus, les sentiers sont
maintenant mieux dégagés. Le pro-

gramme d’automne et d’hiver est
moins couru et les naturalistes peu-
vent alors consacrer plus de temps
aux professeurs et aux éléves qui
désirent venir au parc.

Grace a leur préparation sé-
rieuse, a la clarté de leurs objectifs
et a leur bonne organisation, ces visi-
tes laisseront leur marque chez ces
écoliers. Peut-étre apprendront-ils
que la nature, si dynamique soit-elle,
devra affronter |‘épuisement si une
vague nouvelle de disciples ne vient
vite |’épauler. C’est, aprés tout, a
cette génération et a celle qui suivra
qu’il revient de décider de son succés
ou de son échec.

La vaste tremblaie est mainte-
nant silencieuse. Les feuilles n’ap-
plaudissent plus a la caresse du vent.

ine)
Ww

Quenouilles dans le vent
d’automne.

Cattails under a setting sun in
Elk Island National Park.

Marc Trudel

Dans les étangs, jadis si bavards,
seules les quenouilles, figées dans la
glace noire, murmurent tristement
comme une vieille harpe oubliée dans
le courant d’air d'un grenier. Le
rideau est tombé. Les loges se vident.
Les derniers migrateurs fuient devant
|‘odeur de la neige. Parfois, je me
demande combien de fois encore ils
reviendront a Elk Island.

Marc Trudel, qui nous parle avec tant
de chaleur du lieu de son travail,

est naturaliste a Elk Island, parc situé
en Alberta.

24

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26

Les chercheurs d’or meurent pauvres,
c’est classique. Alex McDonald ne
devait pas échapper a /a régle. || avait
pourtant fait fortune grace a sa con-
cession au Klondike le long d‘un ruis-
seau au nom fabuleux, I’Eldorado.

L’appétit vient en mangeant. I]
eut l‘idée de vendre de I’eau aux
autres chercheurs a sept ou huit dol-
lars l‘heure. C’était trés important
de laver le minerai a grand eau pour
que l’or sen dégage. Ainsi une pompe
a vapeur fabriquée a Chicago en
1903 amenait ala montagne I’eau du
ruisseau Hunker. Déposée sur un lit
rugueux, en pente, contenu entre des
parois, la terre tamisée au passage
de I’eau /aissait prisonniéres au fond
pépites et poussiéres précieuses.

Les chercheurs étaient-ils trop
nombreux, le minerai moins riche
qu’on I’espérait? Le prix de l’eau ne
convint pas aux mineurs et McDonald
en fut quitte pour ses frais.

Et voila que la pompe acquit
une valeur nouvelle. Les responsables
de /a restauration de Dawson Ssa-
vaient qu'elle pourrait illustrer a mer-
veille les méthodes d’extraction
utilisées lors de la ruée vers I’or. On
finit par la découvrir toute couverte
de rouille sous la poussiére et les dé-
chets de travaux miniers opérés dans
la région depuis son installation et
sa mise au rancart.

Ses proportions étaient respec-
tables, surtout celles des bouilloires
pres de Ja rive qui servai/ent a pro-
pulser I’eau du ruisseau vers la mon-
tagne. || fallait la déménager a Bear
Creek ou I’on aménage un centre

Sluicing out fifty years of ac-
cumulated earth prior to
dismantling the pump.

Avant de démanteler la pompe,
il faut la débarrasser par un vio-
lent jet d’eau de la terre qui s’est
accumulée sur elle en plus d’un
demi-siécle d’abandon.

d‘interprétation non loin de Dawson.
Apres l’avoir soigneusement déman-
telée selon les avis d’un expert, on en
hissa les piéces sur des autochenilles
et des camions. C’était l’été dernier.
Si l'idée d’Alex McDonald ne
fit que précipiter sa ruine, au moins le
fera-t-elle passer a l'histoire.

The Klondike goldfields in the Yukon
are still yielding treasure to those
with the desire to dig it out.

With its future development of
the goldfields and Dawson City in
mind, Parks Canada employed a crew
to spend the summer working the
land of Hunker Creek. But it wasn’t
the gold they sought, to paraphrase
the famous Yukon poet, it was Big
Alex's water pump.

Big Alex McDonald struck it rich
in ‘98 when he bought half of Claim
#30 on Eldorado Creek for a sack of
flour and a side of bacon. With his
paystreak on ‘Thirty’, MGDonald
bought more claims and prospered,
investing in ventures he thought
might turn a profit... like the water
pump.

Big Alex had the Reidler Pump-
ing Engine built for him by the Alis
Chalmers Co. of Chicago in 1903. He
had it brought into the Klondike by
sternwheeler and hauled to Hunker
Creek by horse and wagon.

His idea was to pump the water
of Hunker Creek up into the sur-
rounding hills and sell it to the miners
sluicing their claims. Sluicing, the
washing of ore-laden earth through
a seive to retrieve gold dust and

nuggets is resorted to only after the
main lode has been worked out.
Hence the miners struggling for the
lower-grade ore were unable to afford
the seven to eight dollars per hour
Big Alex demanded for.his water.

The water pump on Hunker
Creek was an expensive and unsuc-
cessful venture and one of the many
reasons that McDonald — said to
be worth seven million at one time —
died penniless on Slough Creek, just
15 years after the gold rush.

The pump however, remained
where it was placed, unused and
rusting, it was gradually buried by
earth, bushes and piles of tailings
from on-going mining operations. The
land on which the pump stood was
purchased in 1971 by the Miben
Mining Company and the pump of-
fered to Parks Canada two years later.

It was not until 1975 when Parks
Canada acquired the Bear Creek
Mining Complex near Dawson and
decided to turn it into an inter-
pretation centre featuring the mining
methods of the gold rush that Big
Alex’s turn of the century pump came
into its own.

When Parks Canada was in-
formed in early July of 1975 that the
pump was in danger of becoming
completely covered by Miben tailings,
it was decided to rescue the relic
and move it to Bear Creek.

A five person crew began work
on July 5th, 1975. With temperatures
soaring to 36°C., they shovelled and
sluiced away six to eight feet of rocks,
gravel and earth to expose the pump

20

and its two huge boilers. As the exca-
vation proceeded into the second
week of July, the size of the emerging
pump and boilers began to astound
even the experts. The flywheel of the
pump is ten feet in diameter. A rough
measurement taken from the top of
the pressure tanks down into the exca-
vation site put the height of the
pumping engine at 13 feet, the boil-
ers, 18 feet long and 12 feet high.
Discovery of the pump’s immense
size increased the difficulty of its
move to Bear Creek. Superintendent
Frank McGill of Dawson contacted
Parks Canada in Ottawa for assis-
tance and they sent out Marine Engi-
neer, Alex Barbour to supervise the
move. The 5’8"’ Barbour, was imme-
diately dubbed ‘’wee Alex”’ on his
arrival at the pump site and his cal-
culating eye quickly essessed the
situation. Within the hour his strong
Scottish brogue was directing the
move.

With two ‘cats’, three dump
trucks, two flat-bed trucks and two
front-end loaders at their disposal,
the plan was to dismantle the pump
into manageable pieces, lift them
out and roll the boilers from their
beds.

Dawson's entire supply of pen-
etrating oil — three tins — was
purchased to release stiff and rusted
bolts and those that could not be
loosed were cut with torches. Each
of the resulting eight pieces weighed
in the neighbourhood of seven tons.
Chains were wrapped about each
piece and hooked to the loaders of

28

the big cats. Working together,

they lifted each piece out and swung
it gently aside. Within two days the
dismantled pump was sitting primly
by the side of the Hunker Road

ready for shipment to Bear Creek. All
that now remained at the original

site were the two seven and a half ton
boilers.

Under Barbour’s direction, the
back hoe dug a trench all around the
boilers to drain the site and expose
the boiler walls. Because the man-
hole cover had been removed when
the boiler was last used, the left
front boiler was full of sand. This
sand had to be sluiced out of the shell
and al! 58 fire tubes in the boiler to
reduce the weight.

Once the sand was sluiced out,
some fill was dumped into the site
to give the Cats good footing near the
boilers. The brick wall on the side
of the front boiler was carefully taken
apart and all the bricks were saved.
The plan for the boilers was to simply
roll them out of their bed. In prepa-
ration, the boiler tie rods were cut and
the far boiler was supported by two
timbers butted up against one of the
Cats. This was to prevent the left
boiler rolling backwards into the
trench when the right front boiler was
rolled away.

Two eight by eight timbers were
driven under the right front boiler and
chains were shackled to the back
boiler feet and hooked on the loader
of one of the Cats. The Cat strained
against the chains and, according
to plan, the right front boiler rolled

from its bed. The left boiler followed
easily and both were loaded directly
onto a flat-bed truck and transported
to Bear Creek.

Big Alex’s pump was but one of
the many techniques employed by
miners determined to win the Klon-
dike’s gold. The Bear Creek site
will feature a sequential interpretive
display where visitors can not only
see the methods, tools and techniques
actually used by the gold-seekers
but also experience the development
of mining in the Yukon.

Some of the artifacts unearthed
during the reclaimation of
the pump.

Quelques objets trouvés pendant
la récupération de la pompe.

The two cats worked well in
unison maneuvering the very
heart of the pump to a safe rest-
ing space ‘above ground’.

Les conducteurs des auto-
chenilles gardent soigneusement
la méme vitesse pour amener

en lieu sar la piéce maitresse de
la pompe.

30

EtcEtcEttcEtcEtc

The Complete Beginner’s Guide
to Backpacking

Richard B. Lyttle

Doubleday & Co. Enc.,

Garden City, New York. 1975.

Judging by the marked increase in
popularity of backpacking in our pro-
vincial and national parks, a book
such as The Complete Beginner’s
Guide to Backpacking has arrived

none too soon, if not already a bit late.

Although one may find a variety of
books on hiking and packpacking on
outdoor bookshelves (the most re-
nowned being Colin Fletcher’s The
Complete Walker), this is possibly the
only one that is addressed specifi-
cally to beginners.

Mir. Lyttle sensibly suggests to
all prospective backpackers that they
first realistically assess their capa-
bilities and desires before attempting
ambitious routes and purchasing
expensive equipment. By moderately
easing into this activity, one is more
likely to develop a lasting relationship
with the outdoors, and less likely to
go broke doing it.

The last statement is not an
exaggeration. Like much of the equip-
ment for the currently popular out-
door activities, backpacking gear has
also changed in style and function.
Since backpacking equipment is now
more often found in specialty shops
than in army surplus stores, prices
have risen correspondingly. Mr. Lyttle
thoroughly reviews all categories of
backpacking equipment and gives
sound financial advice in selecting

boots, packframes, sleeping bags and
clothing. In most cases both the
expensive and inexpensive options
are considered. The prices quoted in
this volume are based on California
and Colorado stores, and | suspect
were dated by the time this book was
printed. They are of little use to
Canadian readers.

Particular attention is paid to the
selection and maintenance of hiking
boots, probably the backpacker’s most
Critical piece of equipment. There
is some good consumer advice here
for both the beginner buying his
first pair and the veteran who may be
replacing old ones.

Clothing, cooking and shelter in
backpacking are much the same as in
other outdoor activities, only lighter.
There are some great hints on how
to lighten your load and make house-
keeping on the trail less of a chore,
and even fun.

The modern contour backframe
and backpack cut to fit, is probably
the most important development in
backpacking in the last twenty years.
It has significantly increased the
load that a hiker can carry, thereby
allowing backpackers to go further
into the wilderness for longer periods
of time. The prototype ‘’Kelty’’ mag-

nesium-alloy backframe manufactured

in California in the early 1950's has

|

had several innovations and improve- —

ments made to it by its competitors.
Now there are packframes that can
be “tuned” like a stereo, to precisely
fit the contour of the backpacker’s
back. Mr. Lyttle gives good advice on

,

——

what to look for when buying this
costly piece of equipment.

Once outfitted, the backpacker
may take to the trail, only to find that
there are many more things to learn.
To the uninitiated, hiking may not
seem to be much more than succes-
sively placing one foot in front of
the other; however, if one does it all
day, for several days, over varying
terrain, it becomes evident that there
is an element of technique to be
learned. And once you've mastered
the basic technique of hiking, there
are refinements such as trail etiquette
and group psychology that must be
mastered. All this and more is enter-
tainingly described in this primer
to backcountry hiking.

Priidu Juurand, ARC Branch,
Parks Canada.

Dialogues avec un sauvage

La Hontan

Editions Sociales Editions Leméac
Paris/ Montréal 1974

Ce livre sera une révélation pour ceux
qui s‘interrogent sur les raisons de
notre inconscience a |’égard des pre-
miers habitants de |’Amérique. Il a
pres de trois siécles et a exercé une
influence mal reconnue, mais bien
réelle sur I‘histoire européenne et

la notre.

Rédigé par un «ami» des Indiens,
un Francais anticonformiste, libre-
penseur, finalement exilé de son
propre pays, le livre n’en charrie pas

moins les mythes qui devaient favori-
ser la persécution des «Américains»,
ainsi qu'il les désigne.

La lecture n’en est pas moins
fascinante, car ce Francais, délégué a
la colonie a |’age de dix-sept ans,
comme officier, avec trois compa-
gnies, pour exterminer les Iroquois, a
vécu dans nos parages de 1683 a
1694. Le «sauvage» auquel il s’adres-
se, Adario, n’est pas une pure fiction
puisque La Hontan apprit |’algonquin
et sut godter I|’esprit d‘'un Huron
surnommeé le Rat dont I’existence est
attestée.

Mais |’auteur se sert de cet
interlocuteur pour présenter |‘image
chére a son 6poque de I'Indien non
contaminé par la civilisation, rationa-
liste, image ou se refléte la nostalgie
d'un paradis perdu et sur laquelle
Rousseau fondera sa philosophie du
retour a la nature.

Les découvertes faites depuis
nous permettent de savoir que |’Euro-
péen, face a une Civilisation autre
que la sienne, ne sut tout simplement
pas la reconnaitre, quelle que fit
son amitié. Les bons sentiments ne
suffisent pas.

Ainsi, dans le premier dialogue
sur la religion, Adario affirme sa foi
en un Dieu unique, mais ce Dieu vu
par La Hontan, c’est le Dieu dont
parlera bientét Voltaire: un Dieu me-
canicien plein de bon sens, prélude
de la déesse Raison de la révolution
francaise.

Si pour beaucoup de chrétiens
de |’époque, les Indiens n‘étaient que
des paiens dont il fallait assurer la

><

conversion, pour des libres-penseurs
comme La Hontan, ils étaient des
hommes de la nature, alors que le
propre de |‘homme, comme tente de
le prouver Vercors dans son roman
«Les animaux dénaturés», c'est juste-
ment d’échapper a la nature. Paien
ou homme de la nature, jes deux
étiquettes valaient peu.

Dans la longue introduction aux
«Dialogues» rédigée en France par
Maurice Roelens pour |’édition ac-
tuelle, cette simplification opérée
dans la vie spirituelle de |’Indien est
notée. Si la croyance indienne en un
grand esprit est un fait que nous
apprenons tous a la petite école, on
ne peut maintenant que regretter que
nul n‘ait paru reconnaitre la longueur,
la largeur et la profondeur des im-
plications d'une telle croyance.

Ces réserves étant faites, les
«Dialogues» constituent quand méme
une lecture passionnante, car l’auteur
fait fleche de tout bois pour ridicu-
liser les moeurs et les institutions
européennes. Comme |’indique M.
Roelens, ils constituent un pamphlet
contre la propriété individuelle et
l’autorité politique. Si le premier dia-
logue porte sur la religion, les autres
ont pour sujet les lois, le bonheur,
la médecine, |’amour et le mariage.

L’introduction, trés fouillée et
annotée, requiert quelque patience et
beaucoup de curiosité. Mais elle
campe dans son époque un person-
nage trés discuté, La Hontan, et elle
montre d’une maniére lumineuse
|‘influence subtile des oeuvres de cet
homme sur son siecle. M.D.

31

iv

Indian and Affaires indiennes
Northern Affairs et du Nord

Parks Canada Parcs Canada

Ottawa, K1A OH4, Canada

iv

Canada Postes
Post Canada
Postage paid Port payé

Third Troisieéme

class classe
K1A 0S7

OTTAWA

Conservation
Corada

PAI ZA
pare 5 |

=
i

Cette revue parait en anglais et en fran-

cais. Pour la version francaise, voir au

verso de la publication.

A te Indian and
Northern Affairs

Parks Canada

Volume 2, No. 2, 1976

Affaires indiennes
et du Nord

Parcs Canada

Table of Contents

3 Who Needs National Parks?

8 Norman Bethune Memorial House

10 Where the Mountains Meet the Sea

14 At Fort St. James, A Taste of
Yesterday

cover: Daisies on North Mountain, Cape
Breton Highlands National Park.

Published by Parks Canada under the
authority of

the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP,
Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
Ottawa, 1976

QS-7021-020-BB-A1

Editor: Sheila Crutchlow
Production: Barry P. Boucher
Design: Eiko Emori

Photo credits: cover, S. Homer; pages 11
to 13 inclusive, K. Sonenburg, S. Homer,
S. Lunn

Articles may be reproduced with a credit
line. Address inquiries to The Editor,
Conservation Canada, Department of
Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa,
Ontario K1A 0H4.

© Minister of Supply and Services

Canada 1976

A scene in Revelstoke National Park is
typical of the beauty preserved in Canada’s
mountain parks.

“The National Parks of Canada belong
to all Canadians for all time.

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help Ca-
nadians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Hon. Judd Buchanan,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs,

the Minister responsible

for Parks Canada

A national park is an area of unusual

beauty that has been set aside to pre-
serve, for public use, the land and its
wildlife in their original forms.

"hag oe
a 2
4 ue
pak

a
Re
* poet oe

MOR Se

fi
oe eed

ace
op ee
.*
pee

4

* ¢, a
%

*

“<=

.

sa
=~

In a country as immense and complex
as Canada, it would be impossible to
represent all the natural characteristics
in asingle park, no matter how large.
Canada’s national parks system seeks to
set aside outstanding examples of each
of our natural regions in order to pre-
serve areas that represent the whole of
the national landscape.

Our national parks are administered
for the people of Canada by Parks Can-
ada, part of the Department of Indian and
Northern Affairs.

Garbage is not only ugly, it destroys vital and
fragile elements of the natural landscape.

About 50,000 square miles of our rich
natural heritage is now preserved ina
he seas surroundi system of 28 national parks that include
term obje ej 4S areas in every province and territory.
One nation ie Almost every type of Canadian landscape
is represented in this system; the rugged
mountains of the far west, the forests
and grasslands of the prairies, central
Canada’s lake-dotted woodlands, the
coastal beauty of the Atlantic and Pacific
oceans and the majestic north. However,
some elements are missing. Most con-
spicuously absent are the natural regions
of the Arctic and the intriguing sea-
scapes lying beneath all three of our
surrounding oceans.

Conversely, some of Canada’s natural
regions are relatively over-represented,
as in the case of the six mountain parks,

each magnificent and unique in its own
way but representing basically the same
natural regions.

Canada’s first national park sprang
from the construction of the first con-
tinental railway. Among the towering
peaks of the Rockies, the railway builders
discovered mineral hot springs flowing
from the mountainside. Faced with the
conflicting claims of discovery and own-
ership, the government of Canada in
1885, reserved a 10-square mile area
around the springs as a national posses-
sion. It became Banff National Park.

As exploration and development of the
west continued, other national parks

Logs washed ashore at Pacific Rim National
Park, British Columbia.

were established in the Rocky and Sel-
kirk mountains — Jasper, Kootenay, Yoho,
Glacier, Mount Revelstoke and Water-
ton Lakes — each provides scenes of
never-to-be-forgotten beauty.

Elsewhere in Canada, national parks
were created for a variety of reasons,
Wood Buffalo in the Northwest Territo-
ries as a haven for the largest remaining
herd of bison in North America, Elk
Island, Alberta as a preserve for the
wapiti (elk) —almost hunted out in 1906-—
Point Pelee in southernmost Ontario
is a bird sanctuary renowned throughout
the world.

As the national parks system grew, so
did interest in visiting these special
places. By the mid-1950’s it became clear
that many more parks would be required
to keep pace with the growing public
interest. In 1960, five million people vis-
ited the 19 national parks. In 1975, 28
national parks attracted more than 18 mil-
lion visitors. With increasing leisure time
and increasingly crowded cities, it seems
likely that the influx of park visitors will
continue.

Parks Canada’s mandate is not only to
preserve outstanding examples of the
Canadian landscape for the enjoyment
of a pleasure-seeking public. It is also
charged with the responsibility of ensur-
ing that what is set aside is preserved
for future generations. The National
Parks Act, approved by Parliament spe-
cifies that:

“The National Parks of Canada are

hereby dedicated to the people of

Canada for their benefit, education and

enjoyment ...the National Parks shall

be maintained and made use of so as
to leave them unimpaired for the enjoy-
ment of future generations.”

In developing a system of national
parks incorporating both recreation
and conservation objectives, Parks Can-
ada undertook a study of Canada unlike
any previous study, the definition of the
national landscape, as a basis for the se-
lection of representative national parks.

The definition of a national landscape
began with the eight basic geophysical
regions of Canada. If you think back to
your high school geography, you'll recall
them as western mountains, interior
plains, Hudson’s Bay lowlands, Canadian
shield, St. Lawrence lowlands, Appa-
lachians, arctic lowlands and high arctic
islands. Each of the eight main regions
is sub-divided into its basic biophysical
components, i.e. mountain ranges,
grasslands, plateaux, etc. It is these
biophysical sub-regions that provide the

Bighorn rams and other wildlife live without
fear of man in Canada’s national parks.

basis for the 48 ‘“‘natural regions” which
_ taken together form the national land-
| scape.

In examining each of the sub-regions,
three natural history themes served as
guides: land forms, geological history
_and eco-systems. A systematic study of
_ each natural region leads to the iden-
tification of natural areas of national
_ significance. From these come proposals
-for-national parks.

Meeting these objectives has been,
and will continue to be, a complex task.
And every day we are asked why? —

and for whom? Who needs national
parks?

We need national parks for the same

_ reason that the sea needs a shore. One

_ defines the other — national parks remind
_ us of who we are and where we came

_ from-our stock, our heritage, our history.
_ We need national parks to remind

_ ourselves to protect our environment, to
_ provide relief from the incredible de-

_ struction of pollution, urban sprawl, un-
drinkable rivers, industrial waste and

_ the scars left by logging and mining. Itis
costly, humiliating and difficult to ac-
knowledge this destruction, to stop it and
_ begin again. It would be far more costly

_ not to recognize these dangers.

_ Even Canada, a country famed for the
_ extent and beauty of its wilderness, suf-

_ fers from the deterioration of the natural
_ environment caused by the increasing

| demands of industrial and urban devel-

| opment. If this trend continues, our

_ grandchildren may have only faded pho-
| tographs to remind them of the wilder-

_ hess beauty that once was Canada.

_ National parks are a form of insurance,
' aguarantee that Canadians today and

_ tomorrow will have special places for
peaceful enjoyment of their natural en-
vironment.

Who needs national parks?

We all do.

Norman Bethune
Memorial House

Although Doctor Norman Bethune is
probably best known for his work in
Spain and China, his innovations in the
field of medicine are in themselves,
worthy of recognition. Surgeon, inventor
and advocate of socialized medicine,
Norman Bethune was born March 4,
1890, in Gravenhurst, Ontario, the son
of a Presbyterian minister.

Bethune received his medical degree
from the University of Toronto. After
graduating, he enlisted as a surgeon in
the Royal Navy and at the end of the
First World War, remained in England
to pursue post-graduate studies. In
1924 he moved to Detroit where he estab-
lished a successful medical practice.

In 1926 Doctor Bethune contracted
tuberculosis and was admitted to Tru-
deau Sanatorium at Saranac Lake,

New York. While there, he learned of a

little Known method of treating tuber-
culosis which involved collapsing the
affected lung. At his insistence the
operation was performed. His condition
improved steadily and he was released
from the sanatorium.

From 1928 to 1936 Bethune worked
as a chest surgeon in Montreal, where
he gained recognition by developing
more efficient operating instruments. In
fact one complete page of a 1932
American catalogue of medical supplies
was devoted to Bethune’s inventions.

Disillusioned by the repeated refusal
of both the government and the medical
profession to adopt a policy of social-
ized medicine in Canada, Bethune left
to join the republican forces in the
Spanish Civil War. Alarmed by the num-
ber of men who bled to death unnec-
essarily on the battlefield, he set up the
first mobile blood transfusion service
So soldiers could be treated where they
fell.

In the summer of 1937 Bethune re-
turned to North America on a fund rais-
ing tour. After completing the tour he
decided not to return to Spain and in
January 1938 sailed to China where,
until his death of blood-poisoning
22 months later, he worked alongside
the Communist Chinese troops fight-
ing the Japanese Imperial Army. He
Organized a medical service for the Chi-
nese Army and because of his unselfish
service and his dedication to the cause
of the Chinese he has become a national
legend in the People’s Republic of
China.

To the Chinese, Bethune’s birthplace
is of special importance, and, soon
after Canada officially recognized the
People’s Republic of China, delega-
tions of Chinese arriving in Canada
expressed an interest in visiting the
house where Bethune was born.

' left: Dr. Norman Bethune’s birthplace in

Gravenhurst, Ontario.

below: His dedicated service to communist
soldiers have made Dr. Bethune a legendary
hero in China.

Although Norman Bethune spent only

_ the first three years of his life in the

house at Gravenhurst, its significance
as his birthplace led the Federal Gov-
ernment, in 1973, to buy the house from
the United Church of Canada and to
restore it as a memorial to this famous
Canadian doctor.

Since that time much work has gone
into the restoration and refurnishing
of the house for its opening in mid-

(

August 1976. Curators, historians, con-
servators, interpretive planners, res-
toration architects, cabinet makers and
designers are among those who have
applied their special knowledge to the
restoration of Bethune’s birthplace.

The house, originally built in 1880,
had been somewhat modified and
modernized. The examination of old
records and photos, interviews with
former manse residents and architectural
and archaeological investigations have
provided Parks Canada with the informa-
tion necessary for the restoration. Both

the interior and the exterior of the house
have been remodeled according to the
details obtained.

Five rooms in the house are being
refurnished: the dining room, parlor,
kitchen, study and the upstairs bed-
room where Norman Bethune is believed
to have been born.

Curators have been able to locate
and place in the house, a few articles
known to have belonged to the Bethune
family. Other furnishings such as car-
pets, tables and stoves, although they
did not actually belong to the Bethunes,
are typical of furnishings found in
middle class homes of that era.

Of particular interest is a bookcase
which belonged to the family and an
exact replica of a small table also be-
longing to the Bethunes. The table
is now owned by Bethune’s niece from
whom the specifications for the replica
were obtained.

On the second floor of Bethune Me-
morial House an interpretive display has
been set up. The display, outlines life
in Gravenhurst at the time of Bethune’s
birth, Bethune’s early life as well as
his work as a doctor in Canada, Spain
and China. Photographs, quotes by
people who knew him, including a text
by Chairman Mao Tse-Tung, anda
display of surgical instruments invented
by Bethune are some of the elements
included in the display.

Independent of the decision to restore
the house where Bethune was born,
the Historic Sites and Monuments Board
of Canada, the body responsible for
identifying people, places and events of
national historic importance, recom-
mended in 1972 that a plaque honouring
Bethune and his achievements, be
erected. The recommendation was
approved and the plaque will be erected
in the town of Gravenhurst.

The story of Norman Bethune’s life is
becoming increasingly familiar to many
Canadians. The restoration and open-
ing to the public of Bethune House in
Gravenhurst, Ontario this summer will
contribute to a greater understanding
of the man, his life and the age in which
he lived.

Where the Mountains

Cape Breton Highlands National Park
sits on both the Gulf of St. Lawrence and
the north Atlantic Ocean. Its coastline,
rugged and picturesque, is broken
by bays and inlets which offer shelter to
small sea-going craft. Rising abruptly
from the sea are rocky hills and moun-
tains which sweep back, particularly
in the north and west, to form a broad
plateau. Magnificent views from the
ocean — panoramas of hillside, cliff, bay
and valley compete with equally beau-
tiful vistas from the land — sandy cove,
rocky cape and jagged tide-worn rocks
against the blue background of the
ocean or gulf.

The waters of the park are consid-
ered the most treacherous in the North
Atlantic. Hundreds of ships have been

wrecked on the rocks of the Cabot Strait.

Perhaps the most disastrous was the
wreck of the Royal Sovereign, a British
transport ship carrying 800 troops

plus women and children to England.

10

Meet the Sea

After striking St. Paul’s Island, the
shores were littered with hundreds of
bodies. Some, were taken by the cur-
rent and found on beaches as far away as
Sydney, more than 50 miles to the south.

So common were shipwrecks on
the western shore that Pleasant Bay was
Originally known by sailors as Limbo
Cove. As late as the 1820’s shipwrecked
bodies were washed ashore to be buried
above the waterline. Such gruesome
incidents were commonplace and stories
are still told by residents in the area
surrounding the park.

Technology has taken much of the
guesswork out of navigation and visitors
to Cape Breton Highlands National Park
may never find the remains of shipwrecks

or treasure left by pirates. But they
will experience the powerful motion of
the sea as it pounds relentlessly on
the mountain shores.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park
is 40 years old this summer. Established
in 1936, the park was officially opened
five years later...

The day was marked with celebra-
tions. Pipe bands performed while high-
land games and eloquent speeches
were seen and heard by everyone. The
Cabot Trail had been reconstructed
and offered a gravelled road witha
width of 22 feet — never had the future
of the region looked so bright. The
date was July 1, 1941 and the first na-
tional park in the Maritimes was offi-
cially opened to visitors.

“Casey” Baldwin must have been
proud on that day. Since 1933 he had

left: The Cabot Trail offers spectacular scenes

_ of mountains and sea as it winds towards
Cheticamp.

_ below: The harmony of nature is evident at
_ Cape Breton Highlands.

advocated a national park in Nova
_ Scotia. His motions in the provincial
_ legislature were supported by fish
| and game associations and nearly all
_ Nova Scotians including Professor
_ Donald Sutherland MacIntosh who,
_ upon his death in 1934, bequeathed 100
' acres of his ancestoral homestead to
_ form the nucleus of a national park on
' Cape Breton Island.
' Asamemorial to the man who’s gift
| of land provided the impetus for the
, creation of the park, the “Lone Sheiling”’
was constructed. Modelled after the
crofter’s cottages, common in the high-
| lands, it was built, in 1942, of stone
and thatch as a visible link between

Cape Breton and the ancestoral homes
of the areas first settlers. An excerpt
from D. M. Moirs “‘Canadian Boat Song’”’
is inscribed on the site:
“From the lone sheiling of the misty
island
Mountains divide us and the waste
of seas
Yet still the blood is strong and the
heart is Highland
And we in dreams behold the
Hebrides”

At Green Cove, crowberries and fox-
berries abound and twisted white spruce
are the only trees to survive in the harsh
environment of a coastal headland.

Inland, the visitor can experience an
upland plateau cut deeply by valleys
of rivers and brooks. Here, animals such
as lynx, black bear and deer are com-
mon. Caribou which originally inhabited
much of eastern Canada had been
reduced to zero population by 1920. A
restocking program initiated in 1968
with the introduction of 51 animals was
not successful. By 1973 the herd had
once again disappeared.

The reintroduction of moose met with
more favourable results. Uncontrolled
hunting had eradicated the formerly

above: The American Bittern is a resident of
Clyburn Marsh.

below: Acolumn of gnarled rock called asea
stack, rises from the sea at Presqu ‘ile.

abundant animal by 1900 and it was ex-
tinct on Cape Breton. In 1947-48, eigh-
teen moose were shipped from Elk Island
National Park in Alberta and under

the park’s protection have steadily in-
creased in number and today a healthy
population exists in the park and is
spreading throughout the island.

More than 180 species of birds have
been identified in the park. Sea birds
are common and the valleys are alive
with the songs of numerous warblers.
Especially rewarding is the sight of
the bald eagle which has thrived in the
pollution-free environment of the park.

Balsam fir, white spruce, black spruce
and white birch are predominant in the
Acadian Forests region wnich engulfs
the park area. Inland bogs and barrens

i
|
|

1 Bog Laurel is a spot of colour in damp
places.
2 A baby snowshoe hare in summer coat.

which account for a large percentage of
land area, shelter primitive insectivo-
rous plants such as the Sundew and
Pitcher Plant. The forests harbour mag-
nificent Indian Pipe and the intricate
Lady’s Slipper can be found around
Warren’s Lake.

Development of the park since 1936
has reflected the needs of visitors from

around the world. Major campgrounds

exist at Ingonish Beach, Broad Cove,
Black Brook and Cheticamp. Picnic
areas are found along the Cabot Trail
and one of the finest golf courses in
Canada follows the beautiful Clyburn
Valley.

Cape Breton Highlands at 40 grows
more beautiful each day.

3 Cheticamp River.

At Fort St. James, a Taste
of Yesterday

above: Today, Fort St. James in the process
of recreating the past.
below: Fort St. James in 1890.

Visitors to north central British Columbia
this summer will have the chance to
taste a little bit of the past in the form

of Fort St. James, Parks Canada’s
re-creation of an 1890’s fur trading post.

In the history of Canada, it is the
events in the unfolding and development
of the west that capture and hold
the imagination of most Canadians. Few
people do not know at least one story
of the Klondike gold rush or of fur trading
on the Pacific coast.

Fort St. James recalls much of the
excitement and adventure of the fur
trade. It was established in 1806 by
Simon Fraser as a fur trading post of the
North West Company. When the two
great fur trading companies merged in

1821, Fort St. James passed to the
Hudson’s Bay Co. who used the post
until the late 1940’s. Their interest as well
as that of the local historical society and
federal and provincial governments
insured that the old post did not fall into
ruins.

Five of the original 12 buildings, on the
site in 1890, still remain intact. All are
superb examples of Red River frame
architecture — a style widely used in the
period. It is one of the reasons why
the Historic Sites and Monuments Board
of Canada did not hesitate to identify
the importance of the buildings as his-
toric treasures.

Restoration

June 25, 1976, will mark an important
date in the annals of Fort St. James, the
date of its official inauguration and
opening to the public. Three buildings
complete the first stage of restoration

— the general warehouse and fur loft, the
fish cache and the men’s house. The
second stage which will follow shortly
will include the Officer's house and

the dairy.

Four more buildings which were de-
molished or burnt, will be reconstructed.
The trade shop and office is complete
now and the interpreter’s house, the
carpentry shop and forge and the
Graham warehouse will be reconstructed
over the next few years.

Future visitors to Fort St. James will
be able to step into the past and expe-
rience the fort as it existed in 1890.

Human Habitation

Fort St. James was the first trading
post in the land of the Carriers, a native
people not as well known perhaps as
others of British Columbia, the Haida,
Kwakiutl and Nootka.

The culture of the Carriers, members
of the Athabaskan family, was com-
paratively rich for the British Columbia
interior because of the adoption of
ceremonial features from their northwest
coast neighbours. They take their name
from one of their funeral rites. Long
ago, widows of Carrier warriors were
required to retrieve the charred bones
of their dead from the funeral pyre
and carry them in a leather pouch on
their backs until their relatives could
amass enough wealth to give a commem-
Orative potlatch.

Life at the fort

Dried salmon was the basic food for
both Carriers and fort residents alike.
The land surrounding the fort was far
from fertile and there was not enough
game in the vicinity to feed the whole
population.

Assignment to New Caledonia was
looked upon as punishment and the
region was commonly called “the Siberia
of the Fur Trade’. This was due to its
abysmal diet. After months of nothing but
salmon, traders, desperate for a change
often killed dogs for food. This incurred
the wrath of the commanding officer
as the dogs were essential to transpor-
tation, and he would have offenders
whipped. Nevertheless, the need to vary
their diets was a strong motive and
whippings were frequent.

Until 1860, Fort St. James played a
major role in the administration of the
Hudson’s Bay Company. Its geographical
location made it ideal as the adminis-
tration and supply centre of New
Caledonia managing eight forts and
trade over a 90,000 square mile area.

After 1860, settlement and new trans-
portation lines led to the growth of
new business centres but Fort St. James
continued to be transshipment point
of supplies for several posts.

The increase in volume of imported
goods raised the quality of life at the fort
along with increased demands for
manual labour. In order to facilitate the
handling of goods and reduce expenses,
a tramway was constructed over the
winter of 1894-1895. It consisted of a
track on which small, wheeled wagons
could be pushed up to the general
warehouse. The track and wharf is
scheduled to be reconstructed during
the second phase of restoration at Fort
St. James.

Six hundred miles north of Vancouver
and almost the same distance west of
Edmonton and Calgary, Fort St. James
is indeed off the beaten track. But it
was an important link in the saga of the
fur trade and the development of the
west. Parks Canada invites you to dis-
cover it for yourself.

15

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Cette revue parait en anglais et en fran-

cais. Pour la version frangaise, voir au

verso de la publication.

Indian and
Northern Affairs

iv

Parks Canada

Volume 2, No. 3, 1976

Affaires indiennes
et du Nord

Parcs Canada

Table of Contents

Gan

3 Louisbourg Lives Again
by John Fortier

8 Putting the Parks In Perspective

11. Point Pelee Is For the Birds

14 The Land That Never Melts

cover: A skein of Canada geese flies south
over Point Pelee.

Published by Parks Canada under the
authority of

the Hon. Judd Buchanan, PC, MP,
Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
Ottawa, 1976

QS-7021-030-BB-A1

Editor: James D. Georgiles
Production: Barry P. Boucher

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo credits: Maxime St-Amour,

P. McCloskey, Brian Morin and James
D. Georgiles

Articles may be reproduced with a credit
line. Address inquiries to The Editor,
Conservation Canada, Department of
Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa,
Ontario K1A 0H4.

© Minister of Supply and Services
Canada 1976
Danforth Marketing Services
Contract No. 0O2KX A0767-6-6005

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help

Canadians everywhere to enjoy the vast. |
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

L_Oulsbourg
Lives Again

By John Fortier

ENS, a a ER

“lL ouisbourg was the grandiose expres-
sion of the pride, the military strength and
the engineering genius of Louis XIV.”
Donald Creighton,
Canada: The Heroic Beginnings

The Fortress of Louisbourg stands today
as amonument to man’s ability to restore
what time and previous generations de-
stroyed. It also shows what heritage pre-
servation can mean to acommunity, a
region and acountry.

John Fortier, Superintendent of the
Fortress of Louisbourg, describes some
of the problems encountered and some
of the benefits derived from the recon-
struction.

Louisbourg was designated a National
Historic Site in 1928, and a National
Historic Park in 1940. During the 1930’s
some of its ruined buildings were out-
lined onthe site, and amuseum was built.
There it all remained — a ruined fortress
twice besieged and captured, a deserted
town once the capital of a colony and
home to over 5,000 fishermen, soldiers,
merchants, artisans, shopkeepers,
bureaucrats and their families; an

archaeological townsite whose signifi-
cance and potential for interpretation
were unsurpassed in North America.
The initial reason for the reconstruc-
tion at Louisbourg was economic — the
lessening demand for Cape Breton coal
and threatening unemployment. A Royal
Commission headed by the Hon. E. C.
Rand investigated the matter and made
some far-reaching recommendations,
one of which was the development of
tourism:
“A single extractive industry, by its na-
ture, is not a desirable economic base
foracommunity ...for the Sydney-Glace
Bay-Louisbourg District, alternative and
supporting economic and cultural activ-
ities must be considered, a scheme ade-
quate to introduce new wealth into Cape
Breton and bring fresh and heightened
scenes and an elevation of mind and
spirit to its people.”

Tourism meant among other things
doing something with the fortress of
Louisbourg. In 1960 the Federal Govern-
ment authorized the beginning of a
25 million-dollar program to reconstruct
one-fifth of the fortress and town and re-
create an historical cross-section of
military, maritime, commercial, adminis-
trative and domestic pursuits as they
originally existed in Louisbourg.

= “What could be more stimulating to
‘the imagination or instructive to the —
mind,” the Rand report concluded, “than
“areconstruction that would give acom-

d eolrural forms set up in a strange
land in’ ‘iting settlement.”
a n haope and oe solution

alties has increased as re-
on has been followed by
nimation, maintenance and

As a mainstay of the tourist business,
in which historic and cultural attractions
account for nearly 30 percent of reve-
nues, Louisbourg will repay its cost many
times over. And it will do soin an area
which still has few alternatives to heavy
industry.

Those benefits are only the beginning.
What about conservation?

Louisbourg brings to the National
Parks System a variety of natural and
historic features which deserve pre-
sentation. Its 23 square miles include
Atlantic coastline, salt marshes, and
nesting places for numerous aquatic
birds. Black Rock, a siege position which
shows the remains of French attempts
to demolish it, is also the most visible
element of a geological sequence which
extends back 500 million years, to the
area’ s volcanic Origin.

The marshy plain of Gabarus, which
protected much of the landward front of
the fortress, is shelter for deer and foxes
as well as being a major example of bog
vegetation. Kennington Cove, where the
British fought their way ashore in an
amphibious landing in 1758, has an ex-
cellent sandy beach and a small island
which is a gathering place for seals.

Freshwater Brook, which marks a
line of British regimental campsites,
houses a colony of beavers. The tall-
stalked angelica, found only in the Louis-
bourg area, was introduced from Europe
and descends from herbs once grown
in the fortress.

As reconstruction nears its conclusion
at Louisbourg there is growing acknow-
ledgement of the park role. The natural
setting reduces modern intrusions and
allows the maintenance of an historic
environment. Visitors in the 1980’s will

~ enjoy many of the more usual park ex-

periences as the interpretation grows to
include natural as well as historic
resources.

It is an oversimplification to claim, as
some critics have, that the reconstruc-
tions represent a 25 million-dollar loss
to the preservation of historic properties.
It is as valid to claim that Louisbourg,

une V niaaaaianaiied "

through its effort to interpret the past,
will encourage support for preservation
elsewhere. In any case, such an outlook
is symptomatic of a preoccupation with
structures which has coloured attitudes
toward Louisbourg for far too long.

Ultimately, the buildings at Louisbourg |

are synthetic — the same kind of facsimile —

historical district that the Europeans
rebuilt in their ruined cities after World
War Il: and for the same reason — to re-
capture and preserve the spirit of the
past.

For such a purpose the buildings them-
selves, while they must be as accurate
as possible, faithful in ‘‘line, level and
fabric” to historic sites policy, are pri-
marily a point of departure, a physical
setting in which to explain and encour-
age understanding of an earlier way of
life. And that’s conservation too, ona
scale and in astyle that some preserva-
tionists have yet to acknowledge.

If it is valid and necessary to safeguard
the wildlife or natural features in Can-
ada’s parks for our benefit, education
and enjoyment, or “‘just so they will be
there’, then so is it worthwhile to have
in a few well-chosen places a similar
kind of cultural preservation. The need
exists.

In describing contemporary life, such
writers as Alvin Toffler have predicted
that enclaves of the past will provide a
psychological refuge.

f

In the United States, where the effects
of change have been more devastating
and of longer duration, outdoor museums
and restored — or reconstructed — his-
toric villages are increasingly seen as
surrogate home towns which contain
something familiar and unchanging for
people whose points of reference on
the landscape have been altered beyond
recognition.

Since reconstruction began, our
view of Louisbourg’s significance has
changed considerably. It is no longer
important mainly as a place where sieges
were laid, or as a military installation
whose defeat contributed to the con-
quest of Canada.

Louisbourg is interesting as a more
European, and possibly more sophisti-
cated, colony than Quebec; as a maritime
and commercial centre whose fisheries
far outweighed the fur trade in value; and
as a culture increasingly distinct from
that of the French hinterland.

The staff at Louisbourg are re-learning
and demonstrating the trades, skills,
attitudes, social customs and values of
an earlier and quite different culture.
Those who visit Louisbourg seldom go
away without an appreciation of the
intangible elements in their heritage.

Louisbourg offers that kind of cultural
set-piece. It is amoment in time, and in
its interpretation we are trying — and gen-
rally succeeding, we hope, — to make
ita valid experience for visitors and a
benchmark in Canada’s heritage.

3 Dressed in the garb of yesteryear an
animator stands guard at Louisbourg

4 Building a fortress of his own: this young
boy bridges the centuries

5 ...once the capital of a colony and
home for 5,000...
6 ...one of whom was this soldier of the

Compagnie Franche de la Marine, circa
1726

The use of costumed animators is im-
portant; not because it is a “crowd
pleaser” and an inducement to visit the
site. Animation at Louisbourg aims not
at demonstrating familiar frontier crafts,
or firing guns, but at portraying the
everyday life of acommunity.

This kind of activity goes far beyond
theatrics and endeavours to sustain
itself by its own authenticity and vitality.
It seeks not merely to entertain, but also
to be educational. As heritage conserva-
tion, iteven goes beyond that. In the
words of the historian, Julian Boyd:
“Our historic shrines, our parks, our res-
torations, our pageants and our monu-
ments constitute a vast textbook across
the land, wherein millions of people may
deepen their experience, renew their
acquaintance with the roots of their insti-
tutions, and occasionally encounter
those rare moments of understanding
and insight that regenerate our
strength.”

Louisbourg continues to be Parks
Canada’s most ambitious attempt to de-
velop its historic resources. Along with
the conservation and interpretation of
some unique and significant aspects of
Canada’s physical heritage, it is pre-
serving a vanquished culture and con-
tributing to that ‘elevation of mind and
spirit’ envisioned by the Rand Report,
not only for the people of Cape Breton
but for all Canadians.

A courtyard, once a scene of activity now
lies deserted

A clock marks the hours in a place

where time stands still

Windows to another world

Ny tee

oa) 5 Foes

a ae,

Putting the Parks
In Perspective

“Summer holidays are here again and it
seems as if everyone is running about
from place to place trying to see every-
thing at once. This is fine if all you want
to do is to name the places where you
have been; il will pass the time. But if you
really want to see what you are looking
at, then running about does not make
much sense. Places and things seen ina
hurry tend to look alike. One rushing
stream looks like another. So a person
who travels headlong about the world
will hardly be any richer when he or she
returns.”

Alain (1906)

This 70-year old excerpt from Alain’s
Propos sur le Bonheur (on the subject of
happiness) is still true today. Many peo-
ple visit National Parks or other pictur-
esque places without really taking the
time to enjoy them.

Fortunately, most visitors who are
attracted to the parks do stop and ob-
serve the beauty around them. Those
who really appreciate the natural won-
ders around them will profit from the
knowledge of the park naturalists, who
can provide visitors with an entirely
new perspective on the world around
them.

The untrained eye sees readily the
elements of nature that are of particular
interest in themselves: animals, insects,
birds, plants and landscape. The natu-
ralists sees deeper and puts all these
elements in their proper perspective to
provide an overall understanding of
the forces that shape nature and the
environment in which we live. Quite an
entirely new dimension!

To Smell, to Touch, to Taste
To make us more aware of the living
world around us, naturalists attempt to
awaken our senses to nature. Through
touch, taste and smell we gain impres-
sions that will be vividly remembered.
Walking barefoot in a group through a
salt marsh can be an enlightening expe-
rience for anyone. Some claim that the
experience brings back moments from
childhood. ‘‘We realize how much
modern living had numbed our senses.”

* Originally written in French by Diane
Turcotte, formerly a park naturalist at Forillon
National Park.

8

10 On the trail of a bullfrog

11 Pickerel weed casts its reflection
onalake

12 Life and death in a tidal pool: anemone
eating fish

“People no longer take the time to enjoy
exploring like this.” ‘‘When you think of
it, these are things we no longer do once
we become adults.”

Once we reawaken our senses we
discover our intimate relationship with
nature. Walking along a forest trail,
hikers are shown plants that bear edible
fruits. For centuries, these fruits and
berries were an important food supply,
as were the plants used for making
herbal teas. Hikers sample these on
some of the guided excursions.

The Balance of Nature

A hiking trip will feature a particular
habitat, amarsh, amaple grove orasea
water basin. The enthusiastic hiker will
discover a world that is much more com-
plex than first imagined.

In a pond, visitors learn how under-
water plants, fish, insects and other life-
forms live together as part of a balanced
ecosystem, adapting to their environ-
ment. The fascinating balance of nature,
with its well-organized and totally effi-
cient recycling system, is revealed to the
attentive park visitor.

Park excursions also provide a unique
opportunity to reflect on our civilization
and the problems of pollution, overpopu-
lation and dwindling resources. Nature
has evolved over millions of years and
has much to teach us. Perhaps the best
time to learn is during the summer
holidays beside a pond in one of our
National Parks.

Foolishness or Wisdom?

Park naturalists are not merely lovers of
flowers, butterflies and birds. What they
have to teach us is an awareness that
goes far beyond the borders of our every-
day world.

Consider the remarkable skills of
insects. We tend to equate small size
with insignificance, yet what a surprise
to discover how sophisticated and in-
volved these small creatures are. Many
species live in societies perhaps more
highly developed than our own. They
have been on earth for more than three
hundred million years, long before the
appearance of man two million years
ago.

What about wild plants? We enjoy
their beauty and charm, but eat only
those fruits and vegetables grown by our
western civilization, when all the time,
right under our noses, nature is pro-
ducing leaves and fruit containing
twenty-five times the amount of vitamins
and minerals in conventional fruits and
vegetables.

Even in this space age, science is
unable to explain how birds navigate
from one end of the world to the other.

Gigantic Forces

Visitors who come to our National Parks
are soon enthralled by landscapes
offering the observer a wide variety of
rock formations. In interpreting geology,
naturalists describe the gigantic forces
that have slowly shaped and conti-
nuously changed our planet for millions
of years.

13. In addition to being beautiful these plants
offer their nectar to bees and butterflies

14 Akatydid perched ona leaf displays its
symmetry

15 ...right under our noses nature pro-
duces fruits for us to taste; in this case
bearberries

In Canada’s National Parks the dimen-
sion of time extends to its farthest
reaches, leaving signs of the eternal
cycle of building and erosion. Seeing
this awesome panorama, we realize
how recent our presence on this earth
is when compared to the long geological
history of our continent.

To Know is to Respect

The role of the park naturalist is to
educate the public by broadening its
horizons in time and space. Naturalists
give park visitors an idea of the basic
laws that govern our natural environ-
ment. To learn, to better understand,
appreciate and respect... to change our
way of thinking and to apply these basic
principles to our own lives and to all
living things around us — this is what
conservation is all about.

Point Pelee
IS For the Birds

Point Pelee National Park, in southern
Ontario 25 miles south-east of Windsor,
is one of Canada’s very special places.
A combination of landforms, wind and
weather, brings thousands of birds
through the park each spring and fall,
and the birds bring their own followers.

The autumn migration, from mid-
August to mid-November, attracts bird
watchers and ornithologists from around
the world to this narrow spit of land,
only six square miles, jutting out into
Lake Erie.

At Point Pelee a bird watcher may see
in one day more different kinds of birds
than could be seen all year in another
location. Three hundred and thirty-six
species have been recorded in the park,
which is approximately 60 per cent of
all the species known in Canada.

During the peak of the migration pe-
riod a single observer, in one day, has
been known to compile a list of up to 125

different species.
11

Point Pelee offers volume as well as
variety. During the migration season,
from ten to twenty thousand birds of one
species have been observed in the park
at one time — an impressive sight even to
an untrained eye.

The diversity of habitats within the
park is an important reason why Point
Pelee attracts so many different mi-
grating species. Marsh, forest and beach
environments satisfy the habitat pre-
ferences of a great variety of birds.

The possibility of seeing rare birds is
another feature which attracts bird
watchers and ornithologists to the park
year after year. During the spring mi-
gration this year, a glossy ibis, a very
infrequent visitor, spent four weeks in the
park area.

12

Observing and identifying different
species of birds is a challenging and
rewarding experience for the amateur or
professional birder. For the true profes-
sional, day begins before sunrise and
breakfast is postponed until midmorning
when the birds’ activities subside.

A trip to Point Pelee National Park
during the migration period should begin
with a visit to the park’s Interpretive
Centre where there are displays and
special presentations about birds and
bird migrations. Bird checklists and
records of the species which have been
observed in the park are also available.
Naturalists conduct guided walks and
help visitors identify the different species
of birds.

The three most popular observation
spots in the park are: the tip of the Point,
the Woodland Nature Trail and the
Marsh Boardwalk.

The tip of Point Pelee peninsula
(the southernmost point of the Cana-
dian mainland) is the ideal spot to view
gulls, terns and shorebirds. During the
fall migration it is a taking-off point for
birds flying south across Lake Erie.
Larger birds such as hawks, red-winged
blackbirds, grackles, blue jays and
robins normally cross the lake without
stopping; but small birds, such as war-
blers, use the chain of islands as a
natural pathway from Point Pelee to the
Ohio shore, 35 miles away.

|

16 Shorebirds, like this killdeer feed on tiny
organisms

17 A flock of gulls flying over the tip of
Point Pelee

18 A mallard introduces her young to the
water

A saw-whet owl dozes in the fork of a tree

20 The eastern kingbird feasts on flies
21 Small birds such as this warbler leave

the Point via a chain of islands

The Woodland Nature Trail starts at
the National Park Interpretive Centre
and winds through a variety of habitats.
The shrubby areas shelter birds such as
wrens, sparrows and warblers. War-
blers present a particular challenge to
the most experienced of birders. The
similarity of their markings and their
rapid movements make identification
difficult. Last autumn, 36 different types
of warblers were recorded.

In the wooded areas along the trail,
birders can see such colourful species
as cardinals, woodpeckers and indigo
buntings.

The Boardwalk is an interesting mile-
long walk through the park’s cattail
marsh area. Red-winged blackbirds,
hawks, swallows, blue jays, herons and
bitterns prefer this location. A red-
winged blackbird perched precariously
atop a cattail loudly warning intruders
not to approach too closely is acommon
sight.

Observing birds is only one of the
pleasures of a visit to Point Pelee Na-
tional Park. Hearing them is another.
Stop for amoment and listen — you will
be rewarded with a delightful melody of
songs. Stopping to listen to the birds’
songs is also an opportunity to develop
the skill of identifying birds by sound
rather than by sight.

Point Pelee National Park is a truly
unique aspect of Canada’s natural heri-
tage. A pair of binoculars and a field
guide for identifying birds can make a
visit to Point Pelee a fascinating and
memorable experience.

13

Auyuittug National Park on Baffin Island
is Canada’s first National Park within
the Arctic Circle.

“Auyuittuq”’ (Inuit for ‘the place which
does not melt’), is the subject of anew
book published by Parks Canada,
Quebec region. The Land That Never
Melts: Auyuittuq National Park, brings
together contributions by specialists in
such fields as archaeology, geology,
climate and ice-age history and ecology.

The text is lavishly illustrated and
adorned by aseries of arctic birds
painted by Jean-Luc Grondin. The fol-
lowing is an excerpt from Chapter II:
History of Human Occupation, by Peter
Schledermann.

Explanatory Note:

Evidence from archaeological research
in eastern Baffin Island suggests the
arrival of the Thule (pronounced too’ lee)
culture in the area took place around
1200 A.D. A number of old Thule sites
were located in the vicinity of the park
mainly in Cumberland Sound, and
several middens (refuse pits) and dwell-
ing structures were excavated.

... The early Thule winter houses were
built of sod, stone and whalebone sec-
tions with the roof supported by whale
ribs covered by skin and sod. The
dwellings were usually constructed par-
tially below ground with an entrance
tunnel leading into the house slightly
below the level of the central floor. A
sleeping platform was raised in the rear
half of the dwelling with small storage
compartments underneath. One or two
side platforms supported seal-oil lamps
and provided an area for cooking and
garment drying.

Caribou were hunted extensively in the
fall when the skins were best suited to
making cloth.

Fishing was important during the char
run of the summer months. In early
spring, ice-fishing on the lakes provided
an important addition to the food supply
as did the abundance of waterfowl! which
passed through the area in late spring
and fall.

Seal hunting was carried on through-
out the year, at the breathing holes on
the fast-ice, along open leads and from
kayaks in the open water. The ringed
seal provided the greatest proportion of
the food intake.

Large baleen whales migrated through
the area and a “‘catch”’ of one of these
huge animals provided great quantities
of food and fuel.”

We know from the paleo-climatologi-
cal records that a cold climatic episode
began as early as 750 years ago. This
trend intensified greatly about 350 years
ago, ending about 1850. This last period
is often referred to as the little ice age.

Increasing masses of pack-ice may
have forced the large whales too far from
the coast beyond the reach of the Inuit
hunters. During this period, the snow
cover on land was greater than during
the preceding 6,000 years and the overall
Carrying capacity of the region was
sharply reduced.

In order to survive this environmental
shift, the people were forced to disperse.
Some groups probably headed inland
to the vicinities of Amadjuak and Net-
tilling Lakes where hunting, fishing and
some seal-hunting could support a
number of families on a year-round basis.
Others may have chosen to live in small
nomadic groups which were scattered
along the coast.

“The Land That Never Melts’, published
by Peter Martin and Associates, sells for
$15 in hard cover and $5.95 in paper-
back.

Available by mail from Printing and
Publishing, Supply and Services Canada,
Ottawa K1A OS39, or through your
bookseller.

*Note: When ordering by mail, make
cheque or money order payable to the
Receiver General of Canada.

Autumn
In the National
Parks

Summer is the most popular season for
visiting Canada’s National Parks; but for
many people autumn is the most en-
joyable.

The beauty of majestic mountains and
clear streams holds special meaning
when it can be enjoyed quietly and with-
out hurry.

A Vagabond Song

There is something in the autumn
that is native to my blood —
Touch of manner, hint of mood;
And my heartis like a rhyme,
With the yellow and the purple
and the crimson keeping time

The scarlet of the maples
can shake me like a cry
Of bugles going by.
And my lonely spirit thrills
To see the frosty asters
like a smoke upon the hills

There is something in October
sets the gypsy blood astir
We must rise and follow her,
When from every hill of flame
She calls and calls
each vagabond by name.

Bliss Carman (1896)

Centre spread: Autumn tranquillity — Pukaskwa
National Park
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, ARS ee

Cette revue parait en anglais et en fran-
cais. Pour la version francaise, voir au
verso de la publication.

a ve indian and Affaires indiennes
Northern Affairs | et du Nord

Parks Canada Parcs Canada

Volume 2, No. 4, 1976

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help
Canadians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Table of Contents

3 Winter In Canada’s National Parks
by Rita Scagnetti

9 The Rideau Canal-—A Year-Round
Pleasure Route
by James D. Georgiles

11 Presenting the Past As It Really Was
by Colleen McCluskey

14 Lower Fort Garry — No Hibernation
Here

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of the Hon. Warren Allmand,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs,
Ottawa, 1976.

QS-7021-040-BB-A1

Editor: James D. Georgiles

Production: Barry P. Boucher

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo credits: Cover, George R. Sranko;
Winter in Canada’s National Parks 1, 5 & 7,
K. Henrik Deichmann; The Rideau Canal —
A Year-Round Pleasure Route 1, 3, 4 & 5,
W. Arnold Current; 2, Malak; Centre spread,
Peter McGuire

Articles may be reproduced with a credit
line. Address inquiries to The Editor,
Conservation Canada, Department of Indian
and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, Ontario

K1A 0H4.

©Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1976

Danforth Marketing Services
Contract No. 0O2KX A0767-6-6005

Cover: Snowshoeing in Kootenay National
Park

Centre spread: Breaking trail,

Banff National Park

~~“ by Rita Scagnetti

The frost that stings like fire upon my cheek,

The loneliness of this forsaken ground,

The long white drift upon whose powdered

peak

| sit in the great silence as one bound;

The rippled sheet of snow where the wind

blows

Across the open fields for miles ahead;

The far-off city towered and roofed in blue

A tender line upon the western red;

The stars that singly, then in flocks appear,

Like jets of silver from the violet dome,

So wonderful, so many and so near,

And then the golden moon to light me home;

The crunching snowshoes and the stinging

air,

and silence, frost, and beauty everywhere.
(Winter Uplands, Archibald Lampman, 1900)

In the language of the Inuit there are
at least a dozen common expressions,
and numerous specialized ones for the
word “‘snow”’. Although most Canadians
probably consider one word sufficient,
words fail them when the time comes to
describe these incredible crystals.

It is not easy to describe that magic
white powder that makes Canadian
winters so breathtakingly beautiful.

In Canada’s national parks, winter is
simply — spectacular. Snow transforms
already picturesque parklands into
dazzling worlds of white. Silence fills the
wilderness, giving the impression of
impenetrable serenity. This atmosphere
of calm is deceiving. Beneath the thick
layer of quiet there is much activity:
squirrels scurry back and forth from their
food reserves, black bears nurse newly-
born cubs, and burrowed beneath the
snow, mice and woodchucks hibernate.

Although it is commonly accepted
that the Canadian winter is long and
sometimes cruel, it doesn’t follow that
animals and birds suffer from it the
same way some humans say they do. “‘In
fact,” says Henrik Deichmann of Fundy
National Park,” winter is kind to many
animals and serves as their protector.”

Snow offers safety and comfort to ani-
mals and birds. The grouse burrows in
the snow, where it is warm and protected
from predators. The Ruffed Grouse
travels the winter miles on snowshoes,
or at least on equipment comparable to
snowshoes. In the winter, the scales
on its toes grow out laterally, forming
fringes which act like snowshoes.

In November, the chipmunk disap-
pears below the ground and begins its
long winter sleep. It is not a true hiberna-

Rita Scagnetti is a Carleton University jour-
nalism student who worked this summer in
the Parks Canada Information Division.

four

1 Lynx tracks in the snow, Fundy National
Park

tor, because it awakens occasionally

to nibble on the cache of seeds it has
stored. Stock-piling of seeds begins in
late July, and by October, one chipmunk
will have accumulated about a half litre
of seeds.

Like the chipmunk, the black bear is
not a true hibernator. Its body tempera-
ture remains almost normal and its rate
of metabolism is only slightly reduced. In
true hibernators, like the dormouse and
the woodchuck, body temperatures fall
until they are almost equal to that of
the surrounding atmosphere.

2 Snowdrift formations, Prince Albert
National Park

3 Winter’s snowy mantle, Kejimkujik
National Park

Unlike the industrious little chipmunk,
the black bear does not store food. In
late autumn, it gorges itself with a variety
of wild fruit and berries, fish and car-
rion. When the temperature drops below
freezing, the bear retires to a rocky den
or cave to while away the winter.

Occasionally, particularly if the
weather warms up unexpectedly, the
bear awakens. It may search for food
and drink, or merely roll over and go
back to sleep. During the winter, the
female bear gives birth to twin cubs,
each about the size of a squirrel.

4 Snowshoeing into a winter sunset, Prince
Albert National Park

Human beings are not the only ones
who don new coats for the winter sea-
son. The snowshoe hare and the collared
lemming of the Arctic change their
coats to suit the season. The ermine
sports snow-white attire in the winter,
and wears a duller, brown coat in the
summer.

Changing colours is nature’s camou-
flage for animals. However, this camou-
flage alone is not enough to ensure
protection.

Snowshoe hares leave tell-tale tracks
in the snow, making hunting easy for
its most-feared predator, the lynx.

The lynx depends so heavily on the
hare for food that its numbers follow that
of the hare population very closely.
When the woods are full of “rabbit”
tracks, the lynx eats well — as many as
200 hares a year. When tracks are
scarce, the lynx goes hungry and its
numbers diminish.

The moose also varies in colour from
season to season. In winter, its coat is
usually chocolate brown or grey-brown.

30 warmer months, it has shorter, redder
air.

The moose moves about with ease in
the winter, wading through deep snow
on its long legs and cloven hooves. It
feeds on twigs from shrubs and trees,
and in a day, one adult consumes from
18 to 21 kg of twigs.

White-tailed deer are magnificent in
winter, plump with stored fat and sleek
in their glossy winter fur. Deer concen-
trate in areas that provide adequate
food and shelter from storms and deep
snow. Deep snow makes movement
difficult, but snow that packs and settles
gives the deer extra height, enabling
them to reach high into trees for food.

Several factors combine to create a
winter that is good for wildlife. Generally
soft, deep snow is best, and it must last.
Animals suffer if there is inadequate
snowfall, because they are unable to
burrow beneath its protective blanket.
Frozen rain forms a crust on the surface,
preventing animals from seeking food
beneath.

Even under ideal weather conditions
food for deer, as well as for other ani-
mals and birds, can be scarce. Despite
occasional food shortages, Parks Can-
ada staff allows nature to run its course.
Human interference in the life-cycle of
the parks’ flora and fauna is kept toa
minimum.

Introducing foreign food sources into
the environment often does more harm
than good. It may create a concentration
of animals in one area. Thus, a herd of
deer can become easy prey for the
stealthy cougar. In addition, feeding
weak animals food which is unnatural to
their diet can make them weaker still.

While animals in the parks prepare for
winter, park interpreters are busy pre-
paring for winter visitors. Attendance at
Canada’s national parks during the
winter months has been boosted by the
rising popularity of winter sports, espe-
cially cross-country skiing. Last winter,
between December 1 and March 31,
there were nearly two million visitors to
the national parks of Canada.

In the winter, visitors to parks can
enjoy a variety of recreational activities,
including skating, toboganning, snow-
mobiling, skiing — and even outdoor
camping.

While most campers store their gear
once the mercury dips, there are some
whose enthusiasm is not dampened — or
chilled — by the arrival of winter.

five

5 Shadows on the snow, Wolfe Lake,
Fundy National Park
6 Ice hummocks, Terra Nova National Park

i Dh
1 —“— me os
p=

«3 i yn oN
Oe

-

7 Chasing the chill, Fundy National Park 8 Winter reflections, Kejimkujik National
Park

Jacques Saquet of Riding Mountain
National Park says that the popularity
of the outdoor camping program, started
in 1973, has increased rapidly.

This park offers three weekend trips,
usually in January, February and March.
Registration for the excursions takes
place at the local fall fair, where inter-
ested persons have an opportunity to
discuss the program with qualified park
personnel. Only those with previous
outdoor experience are encouraged to
apply.

Orientation meetings are held before
the excursions. At the meetings park
officials show prospective participants
the type of equipment they’ll need.
Winter camping procedures are re-
viewed with slides, films and general
discussion.

Winter campers explore the outdoors
on skis or snowshoes, carrying a back-
pack weighing 13 to 18 kg, filled with
high-energy food, a mess kit and warm

clothing. A high-quality sleeping bag,
with foam or ensolite pads to keep it
dry, serves as a warm bed.

Another essential part of winter-camp-
ing gear is.a light shovel, used to build
a ‘“‘quin-zhee’’, a snow-cave that pro-
vides overnight shelter. A quin-zhee is
comparable to an igloo and is built by

hollowing out the centre of a frozen
mound of snow.

The walls of the shelter provide ex-
cellent protection from the elements.
Using only candle heat, the inside of a
quin-zhee can be kept surprisingly
warm, up to 10°C, although 2°C is the
average.

Some national parks, like Banff, have
unserviced winter campsites, located
on remote trails. For public safety, winter
visitors who are camping or touring
must register before and after each trip.

Most national parks have areas spe-
cially designated for winter activities.

Snowmobile trails, for example, are

separate from toboganning or cross-
country ski trails. This separation en-

sures not only visitors’ enjoyment, but

their safety as well.

~ Outdoor swimming does not come to a

standstill everywhere because there is

| snow on the ground. In Kootenay Nation-

al Park, both outdoor pools — hot and

cold — of the Radium Hot Springs are
open all year.

i

seven

Satie ee

There is also fishing during winter
months, in parks like Prince Albert Na-
tional Park, where visitors ice-fish for
northern pike, lake trout and walleye.

By far the most popular winter sport
enjoyed in Canada’s national parks is
skiing. Down-hill and cross-country ski-
ing facilities attract enthusiasts from
all over Canada and the United States.
At the season’s peak up to 2,500 visitors
may be found on the slopes of Sunshine
Village in Banff.

Cross-country skiing doesn’t attract
the same crowds to a single location; but
the number of skiers who enjoy the
parks this way is growing steadily. In
Quebec, where cross-country skiing has

eight

become very popular, the number of
visitors to the national parks last winter
increased by 254 percent.

In some northern parks, like Auyuittuq,
on Baffin Island, winter activities are
best in April, May or early June. During
these months, when the temperature
is rising slowly, the surface of the snow
is still hard enough for snowshoeing or
cross-country skiing.

One of the purposes of operating a
national parks system in Canada is to
educate Canadians about their natural
environment. Parks Canada offers
school programs year-round, providing
interested groups with an opportunity
to visit interpretation centres in the
parks, and to appreciate the wonders of
nature first-hand.

Park interpreters also speak to stu-
dents, in class or in the park itself. Slide-
tape shows and exhibits used in these
presentations describe the interrelation
between people, climate, land forms,
plants and animals.

Winter visitors to Canada’s national
parks can arrange in advance for special
talks or tours. Several parks have pre-
pared slide-shows on cross-country
skiing and winter ecology.

In providing facilities for winter activ-
ities, Parks Canada is helping Cana-
dians enjoy the natural beauty of our
parklands — all year round.

A hundred and fifty years after its con-
struction began, the Rideau Canal is
more active than ever. Seven thousand
boats passed through its locks this
summer and nearly a million skate blades
will carve its frozen floor this winter.

The canal, constructed primarily for
military reasons, opened up the Rideau
Valley to navigation and provided a
valuable commercial transportation
route. Today the commercial value of
the Canal has virtually disappeared; but
its value as a pleasure route increases
each year.

The Rideau Canal begins in a narrow
gorge by the side of the Parliament
Buildings in Ottawa. It rises through a
flight of eight locks to a height of 24.08 m.
Crossing under busy Rideau Street by
the side of the old Union Station, now the

The Rideau Canal —

A Year-Round
Pleasure Route

Conference Centre, the canal passes
between the University of Ottawa on its
east bank and the National Arts Centre
on the west. Bounded on each side by
scenic driveways and boulevards, it
eventually arrives at man-made Dow’s
Lake with its marina and sail boats.

The next locks are Hartwell Locks
opposite Carleton University and facing
the Central Experimental Farm. The
waterway continues parallel with the
Rideau River which it enters at Hogs
Back Locks just above the Prince of
Wales Falls. These falls are the result of
a geological fault that has heaved the
terrain in a spectacular fashion to ex-
pose rock formations and strata buried
for aeons.

Just above Hogs Back lies Mooneys
Bay with its wide sandy beach, bathing
facilities and sports complex. This resort
is one of the main recreational areas
for the City of Ottawa and on hot summer
days abounds with swimmers and sun-
bathers escaping from their daily rou-

by James D. Georgiles

ft , eh
ey hany ‘ !
{ j A ley,

tines. Farther out in mid-stream the

water-skiers skim the surface of the
water sending up their fountains of
spray.

The meandering route of the river,
controlled by several locks, finally
reaches its maximum height in the Upper
Rideau Lake. From here it is conducted
through a cutting into Newboro Lake
and, via the Cataraqui River, finally emp-
ties into Lake Ontario.

The entire length of the Rideau Canal
is 198 km, of which only 19 km are
man-cut channels. Fourteen locks are
required to lift vessels 49.38 m from
the level of Lake Ontario to the highest
point in the system. Thirty-three more
locks lower them 84.43 m to the level of
the Ottawa River.

nine

1 Entering the lock
2 Askater’s paradise

Vessels using the canal are restricted
to a length of 34.14 m anda9.14m
beam; maximum clearance is 6.71 m.
Vessels drawing 168 cm may normally
pass all sections of the canal; however,
the official draught is 152 centimetres.

Several channels branch off from the
Rideau Lakes. The most important being
the Tay Canal, which has two locks and
extends 11.27 km from the north end
of Lower Rideau Lake to Perth.

The Rideau Canal never saw military
use and its strategic value dwindled
with the 19th century. But fortune had not
ignored the canal, for gradually hotels
and recreational facilities sprang along

ten

3 A family trip
4 Waiting for a bite
5 Ahelping hand

the quiet and picturesque reaches of
the system. When the long anticipated
American invasion materialized, it was
a peaceful one, in the form of tourists
eager to enjoy Canada’s unspoiled
beauties.

The Rideau Canal has become a major
historical tourist attraction and through-
out the summer vibrates with activity.
All types of pleasure boats from palatial
cruisers, yachts and houseboats down
to canoes and rowboats ply its peaceful
waters.

Modernization has not tainted the
historic atmosphere of the Rideau, for

most of the locks are still hand-operated.

The massive wooden gates and hewn

stone walls have been retained and
tourists can still become acquainted with
the canal’s military history by visiting
the blockhouses and stone lockmasters-
houses, originally designed as fortifica-
tions. The story of this historic route is
told in a new film, “‘The Rideau Canal —
Colonel By’s Peaceable Waterway”,
which can be borrowed from regional
offices of Parks Canada or the National
Film Board.

The passing of summer does not ring
down the curtain on canal activities to
induce the somnolence that once
pervaded the winter scene. With the
coming of winter, Parks Canada puts its
boats away and turns to the work of
repairing locks and walls.

For most of its length, the Rideau
Canal is under a protective blanket of
snow; but over an eight-km distance in th
City of Ottawa, the National Capital
Commission operates the world’s long-
est skating rink. The canal is drained
to a low level and when frozen, becomes —
a rendezvous for skaters of all ages.

In the shadow of the National Arts
Centre, the scene becomes a winter
wonderland of coloured lanterns and soft
music. As many as 50,000 skaters have
been seen on a Sunday afternoon.

At Dow’s Lake motorcycle races are
held on the ice and avid anglers fish
through the ice for the one that got away
last summer. Further up stream snow-
shoers and cross country skiers weave
their criss-cross trails as they enjoy the _
bounties of the Rideau Canal in winter.

|

Presenting the Past
As It Really Was

“Trifles make perfection, and perfec-
tion is no trifle.
Michelangelo 1475-1564

A trip to Toronto’s Chinatown led Ted
Boulerice, a curator working for Parks
Canada, to a piece of grass matting
which he had been trying to find for
several months. The grass matting, a
type used in the 18th century to protect
tea chests on their long journey from
the East, was needed to wrap tea chests
in the fur loft at Lower Fort Garry. Ted

Colleen McCluskey is an information officer
with Parks Canada.

saw it covering baskets of ginger root

in amerchant’s shop and asked where it
came from. The Kam-chi-hong Matting
Company of Hong Kong is now producing
a supply for Parks Canada.

This attention to detail is the differ-
ence between filling a house with period
furniture and interpreting the lifestyle of
the people who lived there.

“The first step in restoring an historic
site is to study the people who made it
significant’, says Lieutenant-Colonel
Malcolm Ferguson, Assistant Chief of
Period Restoration for Parks Canada.

How did they live? What kind of
furniture did they have? What did they

by Colleen McCluskey

read? What commodities were a part of
their everyday life? These questions
must be answered before a curator can
look for furnishings.

Parks Canada historians examine old
records, paintings and photographs and
interview descendants or others familiar
with specific areas, to get an accurate
picture of daily life in an historical
period.

Once the historical research is com-
pleted, a curator begins the search for
appropriate furnishings. Using a knowl-
edge of building- and packing-materials,
containers, furniture, lighting fixtures,
military uniforms and a thousand other

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from Mexico, the United States, England,
Germany, Holland and France.

Furnishing an historic site leads to
a number of unique challenges. One of
the current problems is how to cap the
tops of bottles with lead foil as it was
done in the last century. A company
capable of furnishing the lead foil caps
has been found, but they demand a
minimum order of 25,000 caps, which is
slightly more than the number Parks
Canada needs to cap a dozen bottles for
an historic site. Needless to say, the
search for lead foil caps continues.

Certain items such as paper bags
from the beginning of the century and
original wrapping paper are almost im-
possible to acquire.

Help and advice come from many
sources. Recenily the Period Restoration
Division was having problems getting
labels to stick to bottles. Many different
types of glue were tried without success. —
Kraft Foods Ltd. provided the eventual ~
solution with a sample of the glue used
on its jars.

Old stores oritrading posts area
special assignment. Early trading posts
were often the only source of supplies
for many miles and the owner had to
stock all the provisions that fur traders
and local settlers required.

By patiently searching through old
records itis possible to find the shipping
lists which recorded the brand of
materials ordered by the storekeeper.

Given the brand, the next and most
important step is to find out what the
product actually was. Imagine sending
a friend to a supermarket with a shopping
list which gives only the brand of the
articles wanted.

Once it has been confirmed that ‘‘one
case of chow chow” refers to pickles,
the curator must determine what size
containers they came in, whether pint,
guart or gallon, and what kind of label
they bore. Even when all these questions
are answered, the curator’s work is still
not finished. A store or trading post
would have the boxes, bags or cartons
the items were shipped in. The curator
must now go back over the list and find
out how each item was sent.

Refurnishing an historic site is an
ongoing process and Parks Canada
curators are constantly working to im-
prove the furnishings. The accuracy of
the restoration becomes a matter of
personal pride. For the curator, the task
of refurnishing an historic site exactly
as it was is the challenge, and the look of ©
enchantment on the face of a visitor who
has stepped back in time is the reward.

Lower Fort Garry —

High above the waters of the Red River,
below the St. Andrew’s Rapids, 20 miles
north of Winnipeg, Lower Fort Garry
offers a call to step back in time, toa
period more than acentury ago. A
National Historic Park, Lower Fort Garry
has been restored to the days in the mid
1800’s when it served as one of the pro-
visioning and industrial centres of the
fur trade empire of the Hudson’s Bay
Company.

fourteen

No Hibernation Here

Winter visitors to Lower Fort Garry
National Historic Park can relive the
different life styles of the fur trader and
the Red River farmer.

The fur trade was a hard life, partic-
ularly during the long winter months.
From the first snow to early spring, Indian
and mixed-blood trappers, the back-

bone of the fur trade, with their dog-
teams, snowshoes and traps went into
the bush for months at a time. Their
traplines brought in the best, most
luxuriant furs.

The Company’s servants at the posts
were occupied with the less arduous
work of grading and baling the furs
that were obtained from the trappers.
In the spring these were transported to
York Factory for shipment to England.

1 The spinners
2 Snow on the roof, but fire inside
3 The young carder

Many of the Company’s servants em-
ployed at Lower Fort Garry lived with
their families and relatives south of the

Fort along the west bank of the Red River
in long narrow river lots. A great number

of these people had small farms and
spent the long winters preparing for
spring, weaving cloth, as well as under-
taking more general housekeeping
chores.

By arrangement with the park’s inter-

pretive officer, school groups visit Lower
Fort Garry to take part in activities which

recall life on the Red River more than a
hundred years ago.

Open-Hearth Cooking: Participants
prepare and cook simple items such as
bannock and scones on open fires and
in bake ovens. Butter churning is in-
cluded.

Candles and Lye Soap: Visitors make
tallow candles in tin moulds, they also
make lye soap, and discuss the various
uses of tallow in providing the necessi-
ties of pioneer life.

Wool Processing: The group leader
demonstrates the basics of producing
yarn from raw wool, including teasing,
carding and the operation of a spinning
wheel.

In the wool dyeing activity, participants

are involved in scouring the wool,
placing it ina mordant, and then into a
dye bath made from natural dye mate-
rials.
Weaving: A leader instructs the group
in the operation of aloom. Children
make a simple loom on their own, and
use it to learn the basic methods of
weaving.

A separate program recalls the work
of the fur trade.
Clerk’s Work: The group examines the
importance of the clerk in the Hudson’s
Bay Company’s operation, and the
variety of functions he performed. Letter
writing with quill pens is practised, so
is letter copying with an authentic book
press. The various types of furs and how
their quality was determined are shown.
Fur baling for shipment is done in the
fur loft with an authentic fur press.
Snowshoeing and Trapping: How to set
basic snares and traps is taught and
during periods of snow cover, the “trap
line” is visited on snowshoes.
Skinning and Hide Stretching: The
skinning process is seen in a slide
show, but visitors handle the final pelts
and see different methods of stretching
hides. Group members are also involved
in the process of fur baling.

P|

z

By actually trying these chores and
skills as they were performed a hundred
years ago, and relating their own life-
style to that of the early settlers and
Company employees, groups will per-
haps gain an insight into some of the
hopes, values and hardships that were
part of the lives of western Canadians.

The winter visitor program treats
only one aspect of 19th century life at
Lower Fort Garry, and time limitations
do not allow sufficient opportunity to
relate the various activities and crafts to
the overall function and history of either
the Fort or the Red River Settlement.

With this in mind, visitors are en-
couraged to visit the Fort in the spring
when staff is available to conduct
visitors on interpretive historical tours
of the Fort and its outlying buildings,
relating them to each other and to the

history of the fur trade and the settle-
ment of the area.

Combining the winter interpretive
program with a more detailed inter-
pretive spring tour, Parks Canada offers
visitors to Lower Fort Garry a well-
rounded experience and appreciation for
the cultural heritage of Canada.

Enquiries about the winter interpretive
program should be addressed to the
Superintendent, Lower Fort Garry
National Historic Park, Box 7, Group 342,
R.R. #3, Selkirk, Manitoba R1A 2A8.

Text prepared by the staff of Lower Fort Garry.

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Cette revue parait en anglais et en fran-
¢ais. Pour la version frangaise, voir au
verso de la publication.

Affaires indiennes
et du Nord

Indian and
Northern Affairs

iw

Parks Canada Parcs Canada

Volume 3, No. 1, 1977

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help Cana-
dians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Table of Contents

3 The National Parks: Islands in
Space and Time
by Dr. lan McTaggart-Cowan

10 Land of Thundering Snow
by John G. Woods

14 The Earl of Dufferin
Saved These Walls

Cover: The sun breaks through, Gros Morne
National Park.

Centre spread: Canoeing on Lake Louise,
Banff National Park. (Photo, Ted Grant).

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of the Hon. Warren Allmand,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs,
Ottawa, 1977.

Editor: James D. Georgiles

Production: Barry P. Boucher

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo credits: National Parks: Islands in
Space and Time

4, Tom Hall; all others, Ted Grant.

Land of Thundering Snow

1, R. Gregell; 2, 5 and 6, Barbara J. Chapman;
4, Rod Wallace.

Quebec Walls; Johann Krieber.

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.
Address inquiries to The Editor,

Conservation Canada, Department of Indian
and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, Ontario

K1A 0H4.

©Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1977

Danforth Marketing Services
Contract No. 02KX A0767-6-6005

by Dr. lan MgTaggart-Cowan ,

see Pc

*

Dr. lan McTaggart-Cowan’s association
with the National Parks of Canada
began when, fresh out of university, he
was invited to undertake, for the first
time, aresearch survey of the Jarge
game species of the Rocky Mountain
parks. In the following text, based on an
address to a National Conference of
Parks Canada Superintendents, Dr.
McTaggart-Cowan recalls his introduc-
tion to the National Parks and describes
some of today’s new challenges.

In 1943 some influential Alberta sports-
_ men accused the National Parks of
___ Canada of serving as a reservoir and
__ breeding ground for predatory ani-
_ mals which spilled on to the ranges of
__ Alberta to destroy its big game and live-
_ stock. The moving spirit in the attack
ete: claimed to have seen, as | recall it, 20
_. cougars along the roadside in Banff Park
. during one drive from Calgary to Lake
“Louise. —
_ These accusations led the Parks Ad-
-Ministration to seek a more objective
knowledge of the large-mammal pop-
ulations in the parks. Preliminary studies
were done by R. M. Anderson in 1938
and 1939 and.C. H. D. Clarke in 1939
- and 1941. Then | was asked to under-

This was my introduction to the maj
tasks of the National Parks, and itwas
really the making ofmy career.

The opportunity to really steep myse
in a major wildlife environment which
was unspoiled, in company with some of
the most interesting characters that the
mountains produced at that time, was —
one that | will never forget. It really set
me up for a lifetime of applying zor
to the affairs of the national park:
ticularly the park wildlife.

| regard the park idea as of th
great inventions of the 20th centur
started certainly in the end of th
century, but it was polished, f 0!
and perfected, and it is still evolving

one of the great ideas of our century.

landscapes and animals in trust for our
descendants is a very important one.
Every major nation — and a lot of very
minor nations — have their national
parks. Though we Canadians didn’t
invent the idea, it is very largely a North
American concept.
Nonetheless, we’ve got to be conti-
nuously careful that we don’t subvert the
_ park ideals by linking them too essen-
tially with the commercial attributes that

four

__ take amore comprehensive inventory. __

to a very large extent motivate much of
what our society does. You will recall
that very early in the day there was an
unholy alliance between Ba the
C.P.R. In fact, it was
created to stimula’ ite

policy stateme
the National
for all time,

preserve from i impai
objects and features of nature i in the
parks.” Let's not forget that.

Another quote, “It is part of our Na-
tional Park purpose to maintain the qual-
ity and beauty of wildlife”, and beauty
there is not meant only in the visual
sense. It is meant in the same sense that
a mathematician uses it to describe a
terse, elegant solution to a mathematical
problem.

However, none of this has ever been
conceived as locking parks up. Let me
quote Aldo Leopold, “This vision in-
volves no deep-freeze areas from which
man is excluded entirely. It is not land
and life in a museum cabinet. It is, rather,
an asset to be enjoyed by many forms of
use that leave no legacy of alteration.”

And let's double-underline that!

‘One of the well-known American con-

_tributors to the wilderness concept, S.H.

Spurr, says “Each of us wants the knowl-
edge that whether we use it or not

_ whether we visit it or not, there exists,

lable to us, a refuge from the sights
nds and smells of man.” But
Spurr was a realist also and he accepted
that there were no landscapes which
aven't in some way been altered by the
e of man, be it only from atomic

- There is DDTin the fat of the penguins
Of remotest Antarctica, and in the seals

____ Of the highest parts of our Arctic. Louise
The idea that we as a generation hold

Crisler. one of the American writers,
Says “Remoteness cannot be imitated in
cheap materials; and wilderness with-
out animals is mere scenery”, again
emphasizing the totality of our park
concept.

René Dubos, well known as a writer
on the human environment, refers to a
creative relationship between man and
landscape, which implies that the con-
sequences of human presence need not
always be incompatible.

Pees
pet if

1 Abbot Ridge Trail, Glacier National Park
2 Canoeing on Emerald Lake, Yoho National
Park

Dubos, | think, was referring to the
beauties of really manicured farm-
scapes, such as the Southdowns, the
Cotswolds, or the south counties of
England. These are magnificent repre-
sentations of what man’s relationship
to landscapes can be.

Forty years ago, park management
appeared uncomplicated. Protect from
fire, chase out the poacher, build what
roads, trails and other facilities you
could afford. Wildlife management was
not yet invented. The warden was the
final arbiter. Nobody had ever heard of
an Environment Impact Assessment.
(Some of you may say, “Praise Allah!’’)

Six

3 Moose and calf, Jasper National Park

4 Cougar on the prowl in Kootenay National
Park

5 Astag pauses majestically in Jasper
National Park

6 Mountain goats, Jasper National Park

But that’s a day gone by. The chal-
lenges of today are quite different; but
they’re no less real.

The challenge today is the wilderness
type park as it offers to nature-oriented
people opportunities that rekindle the
joy of achievement, where man is inter-
acting with primitive challenges. It may
be a species to be photographed, a fear
to be surmounted, because people can
experience genuine fear in a mountain
environment. It might be a route to be
run, a peak achieved, a physical contact
with danger to be survived. Your first
confrontation with a grizzly bear close
in, ifitisn’t your last, is an interesting and
stimulating achievement. All these are
very important. They are high points in

a

iy ow
AGN fey

the lives of people which are otherwise
sometimes humdrum.

Every life is better for its peaks, they
make the depressions more tolerable.
And to many people the great National
Parks particularly of the West and the
North are the places where these expe-
riences are available to them. Let’s keep
it that way.

| want to turn next to parks as refuges.
Parks are more and more becoming
islands surrounded by a sea of man-
altered landscape. One of the major roles
of National Parks around the world is to
maintain the rich diversity with which
this world is endowed.

Our goal as conservationists is not to
stop the world ata point in time, but to

8

7 Tending their fire -campers in Banff
National Park

8 Pedalling past Mount Eisenhower, Banff
National Park

9 Waiting for a bite, Vermilion Lake,
Kootenay National Park

10 Recreating the past at the Fortress of

Louisbourg

play along with evolution so that the rate
of species loss doesn’t get too far out of
step with the potential for species gain.
In many parts of the world, and even in
some parts of Canada we are approach-
ing astate where many species survive
largely in the insular refuges provided
by parks and reserves.

One of the interesting things about
“island’’ systems is that they lose their
fauna, steadily at a predictable rate. The
rate of species loss depends upon the
area of the “island”. The larger enclaves
lose them more slowly but they all lose
them. There are lessons in this for all
who support the National Park idea.

The first conclusion we must accept
is that the larger and more diversified

the area within a park, the more likely it
is to keep its ecosystem of plants and
animals intact.

The second thing that we learn is that
those responsible for the management
of a park cannot close their eyes at the
boundary lines. You must be aware of
what is going onin the area around you,
because, like it or not, it is influencing
the area for which you have responsi-
bility. Certain species are much more
extinction prone than others. Among
these are the large carnivores, with their
requirement for extensive home ranges,
consequent low density and low repro-
ductive rate.

There are a number of species in west-
ern and northern Canada that are living

10

11. Rogers Pass area, Glacier National Park

very close to the edge of survival.
Mountain goats and the arctic and moun-
tain caribou are among these. In each
species the population balance is very
easily altered, sending the animals into
crash declines that may lead to local
extinction. When a species is widely
distributed, the area of loss will, in time,
be recolonized, but isolated populations
may be gone for ever.

The automobile has added to the
hazards that animals face. You would be
amazed at the number of animals that
die on the highway.

The special cases of extinction-prone
species are the grizzly bear, timber wolf,
cougar and wolverine on the Canadian

scene. These are the species most
threatened. 2

My topic so far has been ‘Islands in
Space’’. I'd like now to discuss “Islands
in Time’, because this is really what
our historic parks are, aren’t they?

| haven’t visited many, but those I’ve
been to I’ve thoroughly enjoyed. | like
to feel that | am looking at something
that gives me. an insight into how Early
Canadians lived. You can recreate the
physical situation, you can reconstruct
the buildings and find the plows, but I’m
a biologist. What have you done to re-
create the biological situation? Are the
plants that you plant the ones that the
old Cornishmen brought from southern
England? They could be!

What animals did they have? Their
cows and goats and sheep were not the
types we are used to today. It would be
fascinating to determine what plants
and animals the first Europeans on this
continent brought with them and to find

eight

them or recreate them through special
breeding programs. Few visitors ever
think of man as an evolutionary force
and find it fascinating to realize how
much we have altered both plants and
animals to better serve our purposes.
It’s an interesting challenge.

The National Parks, the great natural |
parks, have a tremendous history which
is still to be explored. | know very many
people share the excitement that comes
from following the routes of those who
first penetrated the remote parts of
Canada. | found it fascinating to climb
the slopes of Mount Southesk and sit
there with a copy of the Earl of South-
esk’s journal written a century earlier,

when he rode from Winnipeg on a sheep
hunt. He entered through the pass | en-
tered, he climbed the slopel climbed, _
he sat where I’d been sitting, he counted
the sheep and described their horn form.
The total scene he described lay before
me. You simply couldn’t have told the
difference in a century.

I'd like to turn next to the question of
disturbance because it again is another
impact of people on parks.

We’re finding more and more how im-
portant disturbance is, particularly in
northern species. Northern species par-
ticularly in the winter time are frequently
living with very delicately balanced
energy reserves.

One snowmobile party attempting to
get close enough to a group of sheep or
a herd of deer or elk to get photographs
_ is sometimes sufficient to ensure those
| animals don’t live. That is one effect of
| disturbance.
| Then there’s wilderness wildlife. What .

is it about wilderness conditions thatis —

essential to some of these species? | We

simply don’t know. We speak glibly ae
_ wilderness wildlife and affirm that it”
_ must have wilderness to be there.

But we don’t know what we mean
when we say it. We should be finding
out. With increasing pressure for wilder-
ness use we must know what the impact
of people doing various things, in various

_ places, at various times has upon the

creatures which we hold in trust.

The grizzly is a problem animal. Ina
very real sense it is a symbol of wilder-
ness. It is at the pinnacle of the food
pyramid in its ecosystem, recognizing
no important enemies but man. When the

fear relationship with man goes as a

result of increasing positive contact,

_ the bear frequently recognizes man as
creature to be displaced (as it would
another bear), or as a source of food. It

becomes a hazard to human safety.

There’s a rising tide of feeling in the
U.S. that there is no place for grizzlies
in people places. Fortunately the parks
in the U.S. have been able to resist this.
But this summer as you know there have
been some very unfortunate attacks,
not all of them in parks. We must realize
that the situation demands some of our
most imaginative attention.

We must learn more about the behav-

jour and sensory physiology of bears and

€ nature of the stimulus to attack. |
am confident that given sufficient infor-

mation and the application of ingenuity

we can learn how to turn off attacks and
ow to pceyete the relationship be-

anandbearsothatbothcan
o use the quiet places of our
wilderness parks.
Here are my views as to the goals of
the National Parks of Canadain terms of
the last quarter of the 20th century.
1. To maintain foralltime intact eco-
systems as important resources wherein _
we can develop our understanding of
the functioning of living systems, plants,
animals and man jointly using natural
landscapes.
2. To maintain the genetic diversity we
inherited in our land by preserving intact
examples of the rich variety of living
forms in the full diversity of Canadian
natural landscapes.
3. To foster man’s reverential awe for
the beauty and greatness of a “creation”
larger and more intricate than himself.
4. To provide novel natural obstacles,
the mastery of which rekindles the joys
of attainment.
5. To provide an antidote for the crowd-
ing that shuts each of us ever more
within ourselves.
6. To make available the aesthetic and
inspirational values of wildlife and wild
landscapes to people of differing phy-
sical and intellectual competence —
keeping in mind that true appreciation
comes only with understanding.
7. To vitalize facets of our history so
that those present will understand some-
thing of the lives and challenges of those
we follow, the routes we have travelled,
our gains and losses along the way and
some of the consequences of our
passing.

To do this would be no small achieve-
ment.
nine

Land of

Thundering snow

Avalanches are a matter of life and death
in Glacier National Park. Since the
Columbia Mountains as we know them
were formed, the interplay of terrain and
climate has sent countless snowslides
cascading down the mountain slopes.
These avalanches have destroyed large
areas of forest and in their tracks have
created conditions which favour the
development of specialized communities
of plants and animals.

No one knows how many avalanches
break our winter silence each year.
Glacier National Park is a rugged wil-
derness; few people venture far from
their cars here, and most avalanches
thunder down the mountains unseen
and unheard by human ears. In the
Rogers Pass area alone there are more
than one hundred avalanche tracks, and
aerial photographs reveal hundreds
more in the remote valleys of the park.
The yearly count of snowslides is likely
in the thousands.

What causes large masses of snow to
rip down mountain slopes in sudden
avalanches? The key ingredients for
producing avalanches are steep slopes
and heavy snowfall. The Columbias are
made of ancient metamorphic and grani-
tic rocks which weather to form steep
walls and narrow valleys. These moun-

John G. Woods is Chief Park Naturalist at
Glacier National Park.

tains are also a barrier to moist, warm
air masses from the Pacific Ocean. This
air is forced to rise in its passage over
the mountains. Rising causes cooling,
which in turn forces the air to drop its
load of moisture as rain and snow.
Snowfall statistics for the park are
impressive. At Glacier Station (elevation
1 250 m) an average of nine metres of
snow falls each year. Higher up in the
mountains at the Mount Fidelity weather
station (elevation 1 870 m) the average
is 17 metres. In many areas of the park
it is not unusual to have snow on the
ground more than three metres deep.
When snow rests on mountain slopes
it is continually pulled downward by
gravity. This force may cause it to creep
down the incline slowly or to break loose
in the sudden and terrifying rush of snow
and wind which characterizes an
avalanche.
Unless you have seen an avalanche or
its effects, you will have difficulty imag-
ining its power. Snowslides rank with

rent. Even the winds generated in front

by John G. Woods

earthquakes, tidal waves and tornadoes
among the great natural forces on earth.
You can see evidence of this power
throughout the park: tree trunks snapped
like matchsticks and huge boulders
carried like pebbles in the snowy tor-

of the sliding snow have enough strength
to trim a forest as if it were a hedge.
Avalanches have historically chal-

lenged human attempts to move people
and goods through the Columbias. Out
of necessity avalanches have been the
subject of intensive research sincethe —
railway was first forced across these
mountains in the 1880’s. Research orien:
ted towards forecasting and controllin
avalanches continues to this day along
the highway and railroad corridors

‘An avalanche thunders down the mountain
side, Glacier National Park

hrough the park. Although this research
mas produced a wealth of information
nthe physical characteristics of ava-
_lanches over the years, scant attention
_has been paid to the role of avalanches

_ inthe ecology of Glacier National Park.
Avalanches are natural phenomena

_ which exert firm control over the devel-
opment of plant and animal communities
_over large areas of the park. Anyone
who has travelled through these moun-

tains will have noticed the narrow tree-
less tracks which plummet down the
valley slopes. Here snowslides have bull-
dozed the trees and created new open
areas which favour the development of > *
new plant and animal communities. ““*"
In May and June some of the most. *—~
colourful areas in the park are avaee'm.
lanche. slopes covered in mats of yéllo ms”

eleven

nti Met phat:

;

2 Avalanche tracks down a valley wall,
Glacier National Park

3 Slide path in summer, Glacier National
Park

4 Grizzly digging for mice, Glacier National
Park

5 Acarpet of Spring Beauties on an

avalanche track, Glacier National Park
6 Avalanche Lilies and Spring Beauties,
Glacier National Park

Avalanche or Glacier-Lilies (Erythronium
grandiflorum) and white Spring Beauties

_(Claytonia lanceolata). These flowers,

along with many others, can only sur-
vive in profusion on these low slopes
because of the openings created by
avalanches.

In the Columbias, Mountain Alder
(Alnus tenuifolia Nutt) frequently grows
in impenetrable thickets on avalanche
slopes. The stem of this alder is flexible
and bends rather than breaking under

the weight of winter snows. When the
snow is gone from the slopes it can
spring back and resume its growth.
The effect of avalanches on wildlife
in the park is less obvious. Bird com-
munities on slide paths are dissimilar
from those in the forested areas only a
few metres away. Species such as Mac-
Gillivray’s Warbler (Oporornis to/mie/)
would be rare in Glacier National Park
were it not for the extensive areas of
shrubs created by snowslides.
Avalanches may also be very impor-
tant in supporting the dense bear popu-
lation in the park. Both Grizzly Bears
(Ursus arctos) and Black Bears (Ursus
americanus) frequent slide paths in
early spring. Avalanche tracks are free
of snow earlier in the spring than most
other areas of the park and bears are
attracted by the plentiful growth of new
vegetation. Both the Avalanche Lily and
Spring Beauty have bulbs which form

an important early spring food source
to the bears.

As the snow retreats up the mountain
slopes and from the forest floor the bears
disperse. Grizzlies follow the snowline
upward and black bears spend their
summers in the lower forests. In autumn
the slide paths again become focal
points of bear activity — this time they
are attracted by berry-laden shrubs such
as Mountain Ash (Sorbus sitchensis). \t
is doubtful if Glacier National Park could
support as many bears as it does without
the favourable habitat created by
avalanches.

Grizzly bears, glaciers, rugged moun-
tains and wild streams are all well known
symbols of wilderness in the Columbia
Mountains. To this list we must add the
avalanche, a natural force which deals
life and death in Glacier National Park.

thirteen

St. Louis Gate, Walls of Quebec City.

The idea that the Quebec fortifications
are an important part of the Canadian
heritage is an old one. Indeed, the Battle
of the Plains of Abraham had quickly
captured the imagination of artists and
writers.

However, while artists glorified
the fortifications and called the city “the
Gibraltar of America’, others, particu-
larly military engineers, constantly com-
plained of its defensive weaknesses.

For most Quebec City residents, the
fortifications were above all a hindrance
to physical expansion, commercial
development and urban traffic.

In 1871 all opinions were polarized
around a particular event: the departure
of the British garrison from Quebec.
Maintenance of the fortifications passed
into the hands of the federal Department
of Militia and Defence, which, regarding
the fortifications as archaic, did not want
to keep them up.

The government received an avalanche
of petitions and requests asking for the
demolition of the walls and gates, and
the opening of new streets.

There was little concern for the his-
torical importance of the walls. As The
Morning Chronicle said: ‘‘Historical glory
is all very well... but neither historical
glory nor quaintness will give life to our
trade.”

At the request of the municipality, the
Prescott, Hope, St. Louis and Palace
gates and their guardhouses were torn
down. At the same time, the ramparts
between the Cote du Palais and St.
George Street were lowered to chest
height.

The fortifications of Quebec appeared
doomed to oblivion. However, this appar-
ently inevitable fate was to be changed
by the new Governor-General of Canada,
Frederick Temple Blackwood, Ear! of
Dufferin. His efforts mark one of the first
attempts to preserve a Canadian historic
monument.

Dufferin was delighted by the old world
appearance of the city, but shocked by
the attitude of the residents and the
municipality and by the Federal Govern-
ment’s lack of interest. He conceived
a plan to preserve the old walls while
beautifying the city.

Dufferin’s proposal included putting
a boulevard around the city ramparts.
Where the streets cut through the walls,
the Governor-General proposed the
building of bridges or gates of Norman
or mediaeval architecture with towers
and tourelles.

To break the monotony of the north
ramparts, Dufferin planned to build
a dozen Norman tourelles. He even ac-
cepted the idea of tearing down St. John’s
Gate, which had been built as recently
as 1868, and replacing it with a Norman
gate or a bridge with tourelles.

At the Citadel he suggested a new
Chateau St. Louis, which would be his
residence in Quebec City. This castle,
never built, seems to have been his
greatest ambition.

Dufferin moved quickly to adapt his
plans to the demolition work already
done by the city. The City Engineer,
Charles Baillairgé, agreed to have Duf-
ferin’s bridges built at the St. Louis
Gate, at the St. John’s Gate, and at the
Dauphine Street opening in the walls.

Unshakeable in his determination,
Dufferin pressured the provincial and
federal governments and waged a propa-
ganda war in the press. He even obtained
the co-operation of the British Govern-
ment and press. At last, the Federal
Government agreed to underwrite much
of the repair work for the walls, which
were federal property.

In 1875, W. H. Lynn, architect, came to
Canada at Dufferin’s invitation to prepare
the plans and specifications. The prob-
lem of financing remained. A gift from
the British Army got it under way. The
city council and the provincial legislature
voted funds for the new gates and for
the extension of the Durham Terrace.
Most of the expenditures fell to the
Government of Canada. Dufferin even
received a contribution from Queen Vic-
toria for the construction of the Kent
Gate. However. the Federal Government
refused to spend $100,000 for the con-
struction of the new Chateau St. Louis at
the Citadel. .

During his stay in Quebec, Dufferin
supervised the work closely. The City
Engineer, Charles Baillairgé, complained
that he could do nothing without the
Governor-General’s consent.

The original project was only partially
completed, despite the Governor-
General’s personal expenditures. The
project was to continue long after Duf-
ferin’s departure, and his plans inspired

the work done on the fortifications up
to the time when the St. John’s Gate was
built in 1939.

When the project was first submitted,
its stated objective was to improve the city
by preserving its historic, picturesque
character, without impeding urban
development.

It would be easy to belittle the motives,
the basic principles and the results of
Dufferin’s plans. The Governor-General
was above alla romantic. His Chateau St.
Louis bears witness to this; moreover,
his vision of history, his approach to pre-
servation and even the planning of his
project are marked by this romanticism.

The restoration work at Carcassone,
during the period from 1875 to 1880, was
a subject of great discussion in Europe
at that time. Unfortunately, Dufferin’s
restoration plans were not researched in
such depth. It was inexcusable, even in
the Quebec of 1875, that there was no
attempt to go back to the original plans.

What is more serious, the Governor-
General’s romantic turn of mind made his
project anachronistic, for he gave the
monument an older architectural style
and paid little attention to the matter of
historical authenticity. However, the
St. Louis and Kent Gates are now part of
our architectural heritage, so Dufferin’s
contribution cannot be brushed aside.

The fact remains that the Governor-
General was responsible for preserving
Quebec’s fortifications when they seemed
doomed to disappear. Under the circum-
stances, his bold proposal and the sub-
sequent about-face of the civic authori-
ties and of public opinion, to say nothing
of the actual construction, were remark-
able achievements indeed.

Adapted from an article written in French by
Marc Lafrance, a Parks Canada historian in
Quebec City.

_—_—$?$—_$— $$$ ———$———————————————————————
Lake Louise, 75th Anniversary 1902-1977

Lake Louise, one of Nature’s jewels, added to
Banff National Park by Act of Parliament
in 1902.

fifteen

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Cette revue parait en anglais et en fran-
cais. Pour la version frangaise, voir au
verso de la publication.

Affaires indiennes
et du Nord

Indian and
Northern Affairs

iv

Parks Canada Parcs Canada

Volume 3, No. 2, 1977

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help
Canadians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Table of Contents

3 The Norse in Newfoundland
by Birgitta Wallace

8 Dawson Jubilee
by Margaret Carter

10 Rare Plants of Forilion

13. “My Name is Grey Owl”
by Colleen McCluskey

Cover: Bathing at sunset, Clear Lake, Riding
Mountain National Park, Manitoba. (Photo:
W. J. Oliver)

Centre spread: Grey Owl, among the jack
pines in Prince Albert National Park,
Saskatchewan. (Photo: W. J. Oliver)

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of the Hon. Warren Allmand,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
Ottawa, 1977.

QS-7044-020-BB-A1

Editor: James D. Georgiles
Production: Barry P. Boucher
Design: Eiko Emori

Photo credits: The Norse in Newfoundland,
1, Birgitta Wallace; 2, 3 and 4, B. Schonback;
5, C. Lindsay; 6, G. Vanderviugt; 7, R. Fer
cguson. Dawson Jubilee, 1 to 6, S. Mackenzie:
Rare Plants of Forillon, 1,2, 5, 6, 7,

M. St-Amour; 3, 4, P. Morisset;

“My Name is Grey Ow!”, 1 to 4, W. J. Oliver.

Articles may be reproduced with a credit
line. Address inquiries to The Editor,
Conservation Canada, Department of
Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa,
Ontario K1A OH4.

© Minister of Supply and Services
Canada 1977

mee

The Norse.

in Newfoundland

by Birgitta Wallace

Near the top of Newfoundland’s Western
Peninsula, 240 km northwest of St.
John’s, is L’Anse aux Meadows, site of
. the oldest known European settlement
in the New World and Canada’s newest
National Historic Park. For the past
ir summers, Parks Canada’ has con-

f the site was first excavated

n 1961 and 1968 by a Norwegian

ed by Helge and Anne Stine

tad, who discovered the site while
F inland, the first Viking

lorth America.

2 of the legendary

howaver, only one |
rf 9 lived, on the site.

iS) uated on the eastern shore of the

trait of Belle Isle, at the northernmost
tip of the Great Northern Peninsula,
_ the site lacks sheltering mountains and
forests except to the south where a low
-- ridge rises to a height of 15 m above
‘sea level. Cold western, northern, and
_ eastern winds have free play over the

- area. Today, the forest line lies 10 km to
the south, and the only trees now pre-
_ sent at L’Anse aux Meadows are dwarf

- species, mostly balsam fir Abies bal-
- samea (L) Mill, tamarack Larix laricina
(Du Roi) K. Koch, birch, Betula sp. and
-- willow Salix sp. It is not known if the
_ area was always as open and exposed
as it is now. Local people tell of sizeable
trees that grew on or near the site a
couple of generations ago. In fact much
of coastal Newfoundland that is bare
now, was wooded when settlements
were established in the 17th and 18th
centuries. The need for lumber led to the
stripping of the woods. Research now

four

ably fromthe 11th

underway may establish whether large
trees existed at the time of the Norse.
The climate at L’Anse aux Meadows
is cool and moist. The mean July tem-
perature is only 15°C, and the January
average is —12°C. The yearly precipita-

-tion is about 750 mm.

The Archaic and Dorset settlements
at L’Anse aux Meadows were chiefly on
the southern shore of Epaves Bay.

The Norse settlement is on the east-
ern shore of Epaves Bay, a little inland,
on two former beach terraces which
together almost encircle a peat bog. A
small brook, Black Duck Brook, runs
along the southern and western edges
of the bog and issues into the bay.

The Norse remains consist of eight
sod buildings. All but one, a smithy, are
on the terrace east of the bog. Three
are large dwellings, the rest small build-
ings which may have been workshops
or had other, special functions.

The northernmost dwelling is the
largest. Termed House F by the original
excavators, it contained six rooms ar-
ranged in three parallel rows, with three
rooms in the centre row. The combined
inner length of this central row. was
about eighteen metres.

1 Remains of an 11th century Icelandic

sod-house, similar to those at L’Anse aux
Meadows

2 House F, reconstructed after excavation

The southernmost building, House A,
was even longer, with an interior length
of nearly 25 m. It is about 90 m from
House F, and contains four rooms, all in.
one row. House D, which is situated
between Houses F and A has an interior
length of about 9 m. It has two rooms in
a row and one room on its western side.

All the buildings had sod walls and
roofs. However. because of sod’s poor
structural strength, heavy roofs were
supported on the inside by one or more
rows Of posts.

The main purpose of the sod was to
provide insulation, so the walls were
wide, up to 2 m in places, and for stabil-
ity, they were wider at the base than
at the top. To reduce the amount of sod
needed, most walls had only a shell or
facing of sod and a centre core of
gravel. The gravel was good insulating
material; it was plentiful and easily
procured.The gravel also provided drain-
age for run-off from the roofs, which
were not overhanging but set back, with
the edges touching the middle of the
walls. .

The roofs were made of two or more
layers of sod, resting on a framework
of wood, either planking or lattice of
branches. The bottom layer of the sod
had its grassy side down, the upper
layer the grassy side up. Floors were
of tamped earth.

NE ——OOOOOOoeOOOOoOEEeeEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEeEE——EEeeE

3 House A, showing reconstructed walls
4 House D, reconstructed

The only interior features that remain
are stone hearths, used for heating,
lighting, and food preparation; and fire-
pits for slow roasting.

In some of the buildings are small
square boxes made of slate pieces set
on edge. The Dorset people used
identical slate boxes for heating and

‘cooking; but the boxes at L’Anse aux

Meadows appear to be integral parts of

the Norse buildings, and were probably

used for storing embers.

More than 2 400 items have been
found. Almost 1 500 of these are of
wood and were found in the bog. The
oldest artifacts are generally those that
were found farthest out in the bog and
at the greatest depths, but the stratig-
raphy is confusing so there is no easy
way to determine their age and origin.
Radiocarbon dating is not conclusive,
for artifacts made from driftwood will
appear older than their date of manu-
facture. Parks Canada is now working
to establish which artifacts or wood
pieces are of driftwood.

One of the more exciting discoveries

_ at L’Anse aux Meadows was the dis-
| covery by the Ingstads of iron slag in

close association with charcoal that

| has been radiocarbon dated to between
A.D. 860-890 and A.D. 1060-1070.

The Ingstads also found 85 arti-
facts associated with the Norse occupa-
tion; Parks Canada has uncovered
another forty-five. This is hardly an im-
pressive number but in terms of West
Norse building sites, the result is quite
fruitful. At the site of Hvitarholt in Ice-
land, which had about the same number
and types of buildings as those at
L’Anse aux Meadows but where three
building stages were found on top of
each other, only about 88 artifacts were
retrieved.

At both L’Anse aux Meadows and
Hvitarholt, most by far of the artifacts
are iron nails or rivets and unidenti-
fiable iron fragments. One soapstone
spindle whorl was found. Spinning
was a feminine occupation in Norse
society, so we can infer that women —
were present at L’Anse aux Meadows.

A bronze pin found in one of the cook-
ing pits in House A could have belonged
to aman or a woman. The same is true
for a glass bead and a bone pin with

a flat, triangular head with a drilled hole
in the centre, both found in House D.
Another ornament, a small piece of brass
with a striated decoration was also
found in House D. A couple of whet-
stones and a plain stone lamp are me-
mentos of ordinary household activities.

Most of the objects found by Parks
Canada are wooden and were found
in the bog below the terrace but close

to the buildings. One was a small sewn
container of birch bark which, filled

with stone, might have been a netsinker —
ofa kind that has been found on late

Viking Period and early Mediaeval sites. ae

in Sweden. Another seems to be part

_ of a floorboard of a Norse boat. Close to.

it was a bundle of coiled roots, pronaely:

for lashing, and a large iron nail: hate 3

Norse type.
One of the most interesting pieces iss

a decorative finial. Similar in ap- i

pearance and size to a bedknob (which

it isn’t), it was carved, not turned, and f
flat on one side so as to fiton a backing.

The Parks Canada excavations were
undertaken to answer a number of spe- *
cific questions concerning the. nature vu
of the settlement. Was it a lengthy occu- “yt
pation, and if so, was the site inhabited
continuously? What was the economic
basis of the settlement? Were lumber,
pastures or iron the chief drawing
points, or were there other reasons for
the Norse to settle here? What was the
relationship of the Norse to the native
people, whom they called Skraelings?
Were they on the site at the same time,
and if so, were they Indians or Eskimos
or both?

5 Part of floorboard from Norse boat.
in situ in bog
6 Bronze pin found at the site

Bi e ‘em remained untouched We: so
it was believed). It was later found that

- much had been disturbed by drainage-

~ and construction-trenches for shelters

erected over the excavated remains in

a 1962. Nor had the Ingstad excavations

touched the bog which obviously had a

~ rich archaeological potential.

The Parks Canada excavations have

_ established that there were probably
native people on the site at the time of -
the Norse and that these people were
Archaic Indians, not Eskimos. There is
no trace of Dorset people on the site
after the 9th century A.D.

As for the Norse, various criteria
indicate the duration of settlement. One
is the number of repairs or rebuilding
stages that can be observed in the build-
ings. A Norse sod building has been
found to have an average life of about
25 years. After this, it usually needs
complete rebuilding.

Two or more of the buildings at
L’Anse aux Meadows appear to have
been abandoned and burned, but there
are no signs of rebuilding; although
it is possible that one room in House A
was added later than the others. Thus,
none of the buildings was inhabited
for more than about a quarter of a cen-

_ tury. Most Greenland and Icelandic
sod buildings have foundations of stone.

six

At L’Anse aux Meadows there are no

stone foundations even though excellent

building material was available on the

sandstone ridge on the southern edge of

the site. One small outcrop of sand-
stone lies only a stone’s throw from
House F. This absence of stone in the
building foundations is significant. In
Greenland and Iceland it was primarily
temporary buildings which lacked stone
foundations. Thus we are tempted to
conclude that the same buildings at
L’Anse aux Meadows were not erected
with any anticipation of permanence.

As for the number of people, the
settlement surely was small. From what
is Known about Norse households, the
maximum number of people that could
be housed in any of the dwellings was
about thirty. More likely it was not more
than twenty. If all dwellings were oc-
cupied at the same time — which is not
certain — the: maximum number of
people in the settlement was possibly
90, but probably less than sixty.

One of the characteristics of a long-
term settlement is the presence of large
middens. These middens consist chiefly

of food remains in the form of bones,
along with ash, charcoal, and fire-
cracked stones from firepits, as well as
broken tools and utensils.

The only middens of any note at
L’Anse aux Meadows have been found
on the terrace slope toward the bog
and are now buried under 10 to 60 cm
of peat. These dumps are composed
mainly of broken wooden artifacts and
chips and slivers resulting from log
trimming.

Not all the cut wood or all the arti-
facts are Norse. Some layers predate the
Norse, others are later: The wood debris |
occurs in especially heavy concentra- |
tions on the slope below House D and
between Houses E and F. They areno |
doubt middens but the portions believed |
to have Norse content could easily i
have accumulated in a short time, during)
the construction of the buildings. The
presence of ash and bone would have
been a better clue, but the acidity of
the peat dissolves these materials. They |
may, however, be traceable chemically,
and the Newfoundland Forest Research
Centre is performing analyses for ash
or bone. If the results of these tests |
are negative, we can conclude that
the Norse settlement at L’Anse aux
Meadows was short-lived, lasting only
a few years.

f 7 Bog excavations, facing north, 1976

indicates that spinning took place: but
there are no signs of sheep. Fibres
other than wool could have been spun or

One wonders what caused the Norse
to settle at L’Anse aux Meadows which,
although scenic, is not a hospitable
spot. It may have been owing to winds
and currents. A ship, left to the mercy
of the elements in the seas southwest of
Greenland, almost invariably ends up in
the Strait of Belle Isle because of the
powerful Labrador current. Once in the
vicinity of the Strait of Belle Isle, L’Anse
aux Meadows is likely to attract at-
tention because of the exposed location
on the tip of the Great Northern Pen-
insula. L’Anse aux Meadows, at least as
it appears now, also bears a striking
resemblance to Iceland and south-
western Greenland, areas to which the
Norse were particularly well adapted.

A number of resources must, how-
ever, have been attractive to the Norse.
The proximity of timber would have
been vital to the Greenlanders who
otherwise have had to rely on driftwood
or timber imported from Europe. The
L’Anse aux Meadows area also offered
seal, walrus, whale, codfish, salmon,
caribou (now extinct), and fox, all
desirable commodities.

Before elephant ivory became com-
mon on the European market in the late
Middle Ages, Greenlanders provided
much of Europe’s ivory in the form of
walrus tusks. Leather, especially ropes
made from walrus hides, is mentioned
in mediaeval sources.

After conversion to Christianity, the
Norse discovered that dried fish, es-
pecially codfish was a highly saleable
item on the European market and they

_increased their fishing beyond house-

hold needs. The birch bark net sinker at
L’Anse aux Meadows might be an indi-
cation of such commercial fishing,
although the rich cod grounds of New-
foundland are not mentioned in the
Norse sagas.

Traditionally, because of the northern
climate, poor soils, and short growing
seasons, the West Norse practised little
or no agriculture. Their primary staples
were meat and dairy products and good
pastures were the overriding consid-
eration in the selection of areas for

settlement.

L’Anse aux Meadows with its vast
expanses of heath compares favourably
to Iceland and Greenland, and one
wonders if the Norse brought cattle or
other domestic animals with them.

Two pig bones were found in House A,
but it is not known if they are from the
Norse occupation or later. No portions
of the buildings are obviously barns. The
lack of faunal evidence could be attri-
buted to the high acidity of the bog and
soils of the terraces. The spindle whorl

wool could have been brought over in
bales rather than on the backs of sheep.
Iron was worked on the site and one
could suspect that iron was one of its
major attractions. Conditions for iron
production are favourable: substantial
bog iron deposits along the brook, and
plentiful fuel for smelting and forging.
Smelting sites are generally traceable

through large slag heaps. As previous!y

mentioned, iron slag has been found
at L’Anse aux Meadows, but only in.

small quantities, a maximum of 15 kg.
of which 10 kg were collected. The

ratio of iron produced to the quantity of
slag, was about 1:4 or 1:3, which means
that at the most, a total of 5 kg of iron

was produced at L’Anse aux Meadows

(that is, provided all the slag is smelt-
ing slag and not from forging, a question
not yet resolved). This is not a suffi-
cient amount of iron to have been the
economic mainstay of the settlement.

It is more like a one-time operation to
meet an immediate need. f

On the available evidence, our con-
clusion is that the Norse settlement
at L'Anse aux Meadows was relatively
small and short-lived. It may not even
have been intended as a permanent
settlement but rather as a seasonal re-
source camp. This conforms well with
the Vinland sagas. Late Archaic Indians
may have been on the site at the same
time as the Norse, and, if so, may have
been the Skraelings of the sagas.
Whether L’Anse aux Meadows is the
long-sought Vinland, or merely a
previously unrecorded Norse camp, the
site is unique in the new world.

Already about 4 000 tourists find their
way to L’Anse aux Meadows each year,
and more will come when the road up
the Great Northern Peninsula has been
improved. To protect the site and its
environment, Parks Canada has acquired
an area of about 95 km? around it. A
temporary Visitors’ Centre has been

opened, with displays describing the site

and the Norse. Future plans for L’Anse
aux Meadows include permanent dis-
plays and replicas of one or more of the
sod buildings where the Norse lived
500 years before Jacques Cartier’s
arrival in the new world.

Birgitta Wallace is a member of Parks
Canada’s Archaeological Research Division.

seven

g

OI

}

a

Dawson Jubilee

by Margaret Carter

It was August 17, 1896 when the Klon-
dike Gold Rush was sparked by the
discovery of gold at Bonanza Creek.
Every year since, August 17 has been
an occasion for celebration in the
Yukon. This year, Discovery Day’s
81st anniversary also marks the 75th
anniversary of the incorporation of
Dawson City, that vibrant offspring of
the Gold Rush. Yukon sourdoughs and
cheechako tourists alike will be flock-
ing to Dawson to share in the special
jubilee hoopla.

Their coming will swell the quiet town
until it bustles as it did in the days of
98. Indeed, an evening in Diamond
Tooth Gertie’s —- Canada’s only legal-
ized gambling establishment — does
much to convince one that neither
human nature nor Dawson City has
changed at all. Those who wish to test
their luck on the wheel of fortune still
come to Dawson. The ghost of patron
Arizona Charlie Meadows Iurks in the
Palace Grand as audiences hiss and boo
scenes of raucous vaudeville and heart-
wringing melodrama from the boxes
where miners once sat. Behind the
boxes the room of a dance hall girl
waits wistfully for its long-departed
occupant to return.

Today Dawson City is rich in re-
minders of its history. Many of the
beautiful buildings constructed after
Dawsonites decided to remain in the
north still stand. Outside the business
section, the streets are lined with resi-
dences amazingly rich in architectural
detail for their location on so remote a
frontier. Robert Service’s cabin stands
on the hillside welcoming visitors to
share his view of the land of the mid-
night sun. Here and there partial thawing
of the permafrost has had its effect, and
structures tip dizzily to one side. Had
it not been stabilized, Strait’s Store on
the corner of Third Avenue and Harper
Street would probably have toppled
over.

The post office, evidence of Dawson’s
tenuous tie to the outside world, is open
for modern day visitors to mail their
letters, franked by a special cancella-
tion. The administration building, seat of
Territorial Government for more than
40 years, now holds the Dawson City
Museum. There, relics such as the
waterless cooker, Klondike Kate’s
costume, and the birth records of for-
gotten St. Mary’s Hospital are re-
minders of both the fantastic and the
normal in Dawson life. On Front Street
the Bank of Commerce — built as the

eight

Robert Service slept here. Refurbished
bedroom of the poet’s cabin

Mailing a letter in the foyer of the old
post office, Dawson

a
bop

cE

ome
5

ili

View of old post office with the Palace
Grand on the right

Sorted mail awaiting pick-up in the old
post office

On the move. The K.T.M. Building being
relocated to its new site

Stage of Palace Grand Theatre

Bank of British North America in 1901

— still conducts business daily. A gold
room on its second floor recalls the
earliest days when the town traded on
nuggets from miners’ pokes, and the
later times when its sustenance was tied
to dredging and the shipment of gold
bars.

Next to the bank, the sternwheeler
Keno is dry-docked. A symbol of the
river transport system that linked Daw-
son to the outside world from 1897 to
the 1950’s, its presence is a reminder
that Yukon sternwheelers were unique,
with a design developed for the north.
The fascinating complexity of the
Keno’s engine room is evidence of the
importance of technology in developing
Canada’s frontier. This theme is
abundantly illustrated on the nearby
creeks where visitors can see not only
the monstrous dredges and the barren
tailings they created, but also try out
the early placer techniques by panning
a little themselves.

Dawson City has seen many changes
since Joe Ladue located his sawmill and
store there in 1896. At the height of the
Klondike Gold Rush, Dawson supported
a population of over 30 thousand. By
1902 when it was incorporated, it was
on its way to becoming Canada’s most
modern city.

The vagaries of time have left their
mark, but Dawson’s early spirit has
been kept alive by its citizens, the
Klondike Visitors Association and Parks
Canada. This year’s Jubilee celebrations
will begin on June 13 with the Com-
missioner’s Ball. Four days of sports
events between Alaska and the Yukon
Territory will take place July 1 to 4.
Discovery Day, of course, will be cele-
brated on August 17. The Dawson
Jubilee will conclude with a “Home
Coming’’, September 2 to 5, when
expatriate sourdoughs are invited
“home” to celebrate the 75th anni-
versary of the incorporation of Canada’s
oldest city north of the sixtieth parallel.

*Margaret Carter is a historian with Parks
Canada.

nine

Rare Plants
of Forillion

What mysterious laws of nature decree
that a particular type of flora will grow in
different geographical locations, far
removed from one another? Research-
ers have suggested various answers

to this question. This text is based on a
study conducted by biologist Pierre
Morisset for the Parks Canada, Resource
Inventory Program.

The plants discussed prefer high tree-
less areas facing north. In eastern North
America there are several areas, such
as Mount Washington, the summits of
the Chic-Choc Mountains, and the
Mingan Islands, which are well-known
among botanists because of the rare
plants found there.

ten

Another habitat of rare plants is
Forillon National Park, located on the
eastern tip of the Gaspé Peninsula.
These plants are found mainly in the
southeastern section of the park, es-
pecially on Forillon Peninsula.

More than 10 000 years ago, when the
Wisconsin Glacier had only recently
retreated from this part of America, the
plants were probably abundant. Sub-
sequently, they were forced to take
refuge in the few areas still not invaded
by forests. Because such habitats still
exist in the Forillon Peninsula, it is today
an area of special interest to biologists.

Credit for the initial discovery of rare
plants in Forillon goes to Brother Marie-
Victorin and his co-workers, who visited
the shore cliffs of this area and the
slopes of Mount St. Alban, also located

1 Sweetvetch (Hedysarum alpinum L.)
2 Livelong saxifrage (Saxifraga aizoon
Jacq.)

in the park, for the first time in 1923.
They collected arctic-alpine species
normally found in arctic habitats, as well
as some species, said to be Cordil-
leran, which are commonly found in
western North America, particularly

in the Rocky Mountains.

Various theories have been advanced
to explain why these two plant groups
are present in some parts of eastern
North America. The best known of these
was no doubt the “‘Nunatak theory”,
which suggested that Cordilleran
species survived the last ice age in the
very areas where they are found today,
and that these areas were not covered
in ice.

Today, another theory seems more
plausible. At the southern extremity of
the Wisconsin Glacier, which at its
largest covered most of Canada, there
was most likely a zone of tundra which
provided ideal conditions for the pro-
pagation of Cordilleran species
preferring open habitats. This zone is
thought to have extended, in discon-
tinuous fashion, from the Rocky Moun-
tains to the Maritime provinces, forming
a corridor along which these species
could gradually spread from the west to
the east of North America.

3 Cancer root (Orobanche terrae-novae

Fern.) grows on the north face of Mount
St. Alban

4 Yellow mountain saxifrage (Saxifraga

aizoides L.) on the east cliff of Bon Ami

According to this theory, the so-called
arctic-alpine species moved with the
Wisconsin Glacier as it advanced south-
ward, and later on spread more exten-
sively in the tundra zone which
developed as the glacier retreated.

It is suggested that arctic-alpine and
Cordilleran plants, which are pioneer
species, were progressively eliminated
from central North America as condi-
tions became more suited to the growth
of grassland and forest vegetation.
Some plant communities did, however,
survive by taking refuge in the remain-
ing habitats favourable to them, such as
talus scree, shore cliffs and mountain
tops not suited to forest development.

Therefore, as the Wisconsin Glacier
retreated to the north 12 500 years ago,
some of these plants managed to
survive in the area which is now Forillon
National Park. Various factors have

5 Cut-leaved anemone (Anemone multifida

Poir)

6 Primrose (Primula sp.)
7 Northeast side of Forillon peninsula.

H
]
‘|
4
;

contributed to maintaining the open con-
ditions they prefer, including the slope
and orientation of rock formations, the
limestone substratum, and the northeast
exposure of the cliffs. There are few
trees and shrubs in such locations and
herbaceous plants occupy very little of
the surface area. As long as these
conditions do not change, the habitat
will remain suitable for these relict
species, and they will continue to
prosper.

In Forillon National Park, some 20
plant species that are either very rare or
of special interest to botanists have
been located and identified. Except for
three of these, no species is represented

eleven

twelve

by more than 60 individual plants, and
there are actually fewer than 10 speci-
mens of some types. About 30 more
common arctic-alpine species also
occur in the park.

Most of these plants are found in the
seven.locations now considered to be
rare plant refuges. The most important
ones grow on the shore Cliffs of Forillon
Peninsula, and the slopes of Mount
St. Alban.

“The arctic-a pine ts and t oe
hebics the legacy of a ‘bygone. ‘ a, ie
constitute a special kind of resource. ~
Care must be taken to ensure that they —
are not disturbed — their uniqueness
and fragility make this a a neces for ~
their survival.

This is one of the aims of the Re-
source’ Inventory Program of Parks
Canada. By increasing our knowledge
of the natural resources of our country, _
we can ensure their conservation. —

Originally written in French by Daniel
LeSauteur, a staff member of Parks Canada, ;
Natural Resources Division.

“ily Nannie is Grey Owl”

by Colleen McCluskey

“My name is Grey Owl. | come in peace.”
With these words, Canada’s most
celebrated conservationist carried a
message about the world of the beaver
and the vanishing wilderness to millions
of people in Canada, Britain and the
USA.

But who was this man who attracted
audiences in ever-increasing numbers
and who prompted one critic to write
“Grey Owl is probably one of the finest
ambassadors of friendship and goodwill
Canada has ever sent to England?”

Former Prime Minister John Diefen-
baker said, ‘‘“Grey Owl was a charlatan
of the first rank and Canada’s greatest
conservationist.”

Why a charlatan?

Throughout his life Grey Ow! posed
as an Indian. He claimed that he was
born near the Rio Grande of an Apache
mother and a Scottish father. But within
24 hours of his death on April 13, 1938,
an article by Greg Clark in the Toronto
Star revealed that Grey Owl was actually
Archie Belaney. He was born in Hast-
ings, England and came to Canada in
1906, adopting the way of life of the
Indian people of northeastern Ontario.

His transformation from Englishman to
Indian was described by Belaney ina
letter written in 1934. ‘“‘Nearly everything
that | have learnt that is now being

put to use and expressing in writing,
comes from the Ojibways of Canada
with whom | have soujourned (sic), on
and off (mostly on), for nearly thirty
years and coming under their influence
whilst yet a youth, learnt their arts and
language... and consider their tradi-
tions as my own.”

The discovery that Grey Owl was not
born an Indian outraged many who
had heard his message; but the debate
over his identity ignored both his con-
tribution to the preservation of the
wilderness and his love and concern for
the beaver.

Grey Owl’s career as a conservationist
began in the mid-1920s in Témiscouata
County, Quebec. For 20 years he had
been a guide, hunting and trapping. His
friend and publisher, Lovat Dickson,
described Grey Owl’s realisation of the
suffering he had caused. “Things he
had barely noticed before now stood as
mute witnesses of the suffering his
presence in these woods inflicted on
animal life. When they came upona
trap and saw the body of an animal
caught in it, frozen in the shape of the
last contortion it had made to retain its
spark of life; when traps set for fur-
bearing animals revealed, when they

1 Beaver sleeping on Grey Owl’s shoulder,

Riding Mountain National Park, Manitoba

2 Anahareo and Grey Owl bring their own

Jelly Roll to a picnic in Prince Albert
National Park, Saskatchewan

came to them, the mute, icy bodies of
harmless little squirrels and birds,
caught there accidently, and most of all
when they came to a trap and found

not the dead body of an animal but its
paw, chewed off so that its owner
might be set free, when these things
happened as they did nearly every day,
he was reminded of the sum of suffering
he had brought to these creatures over
the years.”

With the encouragement of his Indian
wife, Anahareo, Grey Owl decided to
abandon his trapping and devote his
energies to saving the beaver from
possible extinction by establishing a
beaver colony. Two beavers which they
had raised from kittens when their
mother had been caught in one of Grey
Owl’s traps formed the nucleus of this
first colony.

For many months Grey Owl and
Anahareo devoted all their energies to
protecting the two beavers, who had
built a lodge on the lake by the cabin in
Témiscouata. Grey Owl began to
write about his beaver friends. In 1929,
an article he had written was accepted
for publication in the British magazine,
Country Life.

A further series of articles published
in Forest and Outdoors magazine attrac-
ted the attention of the National Parks

thirteen

Service and a film crew was sent to
Témiscouata to film Grey Owl and his
beavers. Five films were made in all and
they were widely shown in Europe and
North America.

Shortly after, the National Park Ser-
vice began a beaver conservation pro-
gram. Grey Owl was offered the job of
caretaker for park animals in Riding
Mountain National Park. The 1937-1938
estimates for Prince Albert National
Park show that provision was made to
pay $1 320 to A. Belaney (Grey Owl) for
his duties as caretaker of park animals
and $200 for special feed for the beaver.

At first hesitant to relinquish his
freedom, he accepted the offer to pro-
vide for the safety of the beaver. “‘If |
embraced this opportunity with all its
multitudinous advantages, it would
seem to mean the absolute surrendering
of my freedom, might put an end to all
my wandering in the wilderness...

Yet | did remain true to what | deemed
to be my obligations, all thought of
liberty must be given up. And two things
stood out compellingly and clear as
light: my object, which has seemed at

fourteen

last so unattainable, was now within my
grasp, and my two small friends would
be forever beyond the power of any
one to harm, free for all time from the
haunting fear of death, that is the
inescapable heritage of the beaver folk.
These were the main issues, all others
dwarfed beside them.” (Pilgrims of the
Wild.)

In the spring of 1931 Grey Owl and
his two beavers, Jelly Roll and Rawhide,
moved from Quebec to Riding Mountain
National Park. By the end of the summer
it was clear that the location was not
fit for winter use and another site was
found on the shore of Ajawaan Lake in
Prince Albert National Park, Saskat-
chewan.

The National Park Service built a
cabin to Grey Owl’s specifications, with
a hole in one side where the beaver
could construct their lodge, with access
both to the cabin and to the lake. In
October of 1931, Grey Owl, Anahareo,
Jelly Roll and Rawhide moved to their
new home.

During the next seven years, in
Prince Albert National Park, Grey Owl

did most of the writing which made him
world-famous as a conservationist.

In his four books, Men of the Last
Frontier, Pilgrims of the Wild, Tales of
an Empty Cabin and Sajo and her
Beaver People, Grey Owl weaves a
touching and often humorous tale of the
antics of the beavers and of his and
Anahareo’s struggle to protect them.
Grey Owl recalled one young beaver,
“His whole short life of four months has
been turned topsy-turvy, inside out, and
sideways. He had been transported
hither and thither on trains and wagons,
carried long distances in a box on his
owner’s back, and had finally spent two
entire days in an empty camp stove. For
a swimming pool he had a dishpan, and
for food he was fed pancakes... And
now suddenly, had come the end of a
very eventful journey, and all was
peace and quiet and contentment. In the
creek that feeds the lake | fixed up an
old beaver house, placed in it a quantity
of food, and turned him loose. But he
did not want to run wild. Each night
before the ice came he was at the camp
door at dark. And sometimes, as he

eae

——— ee = = _

3 Moose calves meet the public in Prince
Albert National Park, Saskatchewan

4 Young pelicans, Lavallée Lake, Prince
Albert National Park, Saskatchewan

regarded me gravely, sitting there at
my feet, my heart went out to the little
waif that did not want to be free, and
| would pick him up and pass my hand
over his rich fur, and he would sigh
contentedly and fall immediately asleep,
to dream of cool waters and mud, of
poplar leaves and pancakes.”’

Living with beavers in the same
cabin was not always easy. “They roam
around the camp and, with no evil
intent but apparently from just sheer
joy of living take large slices out of
table legs and chairs, nice long splinters
out of the walls, and their progress is
marked by little piles and strings of
chips. This in the forepart of the even-
ing. After ‘lights out’ the more serious
work commences such as the removal of
deerskin rugs, the transferring of fire-
wood from behind the stove into the
middle of the floor, or the improvement
of some waterproof footwear by the
addition of a little openwork in the
soles.”

Grey Owl’s concern was not just for
the beaver but also for the protection
of the wilderness. In an unpublished

article written in 1931 he expresses his
concern for the vanishing wilderness.
“Why should the last of the Silent Places
be destroyed ruthlessly whilst we stand
by in listless apathy, without making an
effort to save at least a few small areas
of our forest in a state of nature, to be
representative of the Canada that was
during the most interesting period of
her history... and to provide sanctuary
for the Spirit of the Wild and for those
of us, and they are not a few, who love
to commune with Him and His furred
and feathered people.”

Following the publication of ‘Pilgrims
of the Wild” Grey Owl left for Britain on
a lecture tour to ‘arouse public sym-
pathy and understanding with a view
to toleration of the lesser people (the
animals of the wild) in order that they
may be better understood”.

During a 1937 lecture tour Grey Owl
was presented to King George VI and
his young family, including the present
Queen Elizabeth. Following his final
lecture at Massey Hall in Toronto, Grey
Owl returned to his beaver in their
cabin on Ajawaan Lake. The exhausted

All photographs for this article and the
centre-spread poster of Grey Owl were taken
between 1929 and 1932 by the late W. J.
Oliver of Calgary for the National Parks
Branch of the Department of the Interior.

Grey Owl fell ill with pneumonia and
died in Prince Albert hospital, April 13,
1938, only five days after his return. He
was buried near his cabin on Ajawaan
Lake.

The cabin in which Grey Owl lived
and worked for seven years is pre-
served by Parks Canada as a tribute to
his contribution to the cause of conser-
vation. Visitors still come to the camp,
about 40 km from Waskesiu Townsite.
The cabin is 15 km from the nearest
road, and can be reached only on foot or
by boat. Many visitors spend the night in
a nearby campground before making the
return trip.

At Grey Owl’s grave, a plaque bears
the inscription, ‘| hope you understand
me, | am not particularly anxious to be
known at all; but my place is back in the
woods, there is my home, and there |
stay. But in this country of Canada, to
which | am intensely loyal, and whose
natural heritage | am trying to interpret
so that it may be better understood and
appreciated, here, at least, | want to be
known for what | am.”

fifteen

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ZL6L 919

Cette revue paraitenanglaiseten _
francais. Pour la version fran¢aise, voir
au verso de la publication.

ee a Indian and Affaires indiennes
Ne Northern Affairs | et du Nord

Parks Canada Parcs Canada

Volume 3, No. 3, 1977

P|

Metric Commission Canada has granted use of the
National Symbol for Metric Conversion.

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help Cana-
dians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Table of Contents
3 Inthe Land of the Chasse-galerie

8 Birthplace of the National Parks
by W. Fergus Lothian

11. Marine Parks: A World of
Submerged Beauty
by Claude Mondor

Cover: Diver examines the wheel of the
sunken vessel Mavoureen.

Centre spread: Sunrise at Cap des Rosiers,
Forillon National Park. (Photo: Maxime

St. Amour)

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of the Hon. Warren Allmand,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs,
Ottawa, 1977.

QS-7044-030-BB-A1

Editor: James D. Georgiles

Production: Barry P. Boucher

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo Credits: /n the Land of the Chasse-
galerie, Yves Tessier. Birthplace of the
National Parks, 1, Canadian Pacific Railway;
2, W. F. Lothian. Marine Parks: A World of
Submerged Beauty, 1 and 10, P. McCloskey;
2, G. E. Tayler; 3, W.L.S.; 6 and 9,

A. F. Helmsley; 8, P. Matrasou.

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.
Address inquiries to The Editor,
Conservation Canada, Department of Indian
and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, Ontario

K1A 0H4.

©Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1977

Pierre Des Marais Inc.
Contract No. O9KT. A0767-7-1003

A Summer Morning’s Dream
In the Land of the Chasse-galerie

An August morning,

clothed in the moist folds

of a heavy-hanging mist.
Outside my tent

the vapour-laden air

casts over me its comforting warmth.
The early dawn holds promise
of an ever-changing perspective
as the trailing clouds

retreat over the verdant hills.

| launch my canoe gently

on the water’s tranquil surface
and made my silent way

through the invisible, all-enveloping veil.

Like brushstrokes

on an impressionist canvas,

the jagged tips of evergreens
thrust through the leafy branches.
The mirrored depths

stretch to infinity,

rising from the dim horizon

as though wedded to the visible air.

A luminous ray

steals shyly through.

The curtain is about to rise;
the shadowed forms

take on a sharper line.
Colours cast off

their milky tint.

From my soundless paddle
the ripples dance away,

and images of the landscape
break and follow in their train.

Already the horizon limits earth and sky.
The treetops stand revealed.

The sun begins to filter through

the swirling ribbons of the mist,
encrusting with a thousand jewels

the sombre tapestry of night.

And now the dawn’s first pallid gleam

gives way to bands of deepening hue.

In the valleys’ leaf-green depths,

the last diaphanous strands

linger a moment, and are gone.

The landscape comes new-minted into view,
bathed in the warm and vibrant glow

of this jewel of August days.

So fades a midsummer morning’s dream,

a dream | wish might have no end.

La chasse-galerie, it’s flying still. An old
French legend tells of a ‘‘Monsieur
Galerie” who went hunting during the
hour of high mass. As punishment he
was condemned to go hunting through
the skies each midnight until the end

of time. His endless journey became
known as the ‘‘chasse-galerie”’.

In Canada, the legend was applied to
coureurs de bois whose canoes had
been trapped upriver by early winter ice.
Unable to reach their loved ones by
river, they made a pact with the devil to
sail through the air in a phantom canoe,
at the stroke of midnight when the
moon was full.

In the last century, lumberjacks in
isolated forest camps made their way
back to their sweethearts along the same
nocturnal route, taking special care
not to pass too close to mountain peaks
or church steeples that might damage
their slender canoes.

In the 20th century, skyscrapers,
television antennae and airport control
towers have added new perils to the
pilots of these fragile craft; but on they
sail— when conditions are right, an
air service rivalling the flying carpets of
Araby.

In the Land of

The legend of the chasse-galerie is
little known in scientific circles. Which
may explain the confusing reports of
mysterious flying objects, often de-
scribed as saucer-shaped. Have you
ever noticed how much a birch-bark
canoe resembles a saucer when seen in
profile?

A detailed description of the phenom-
enon, with proper footnotes, was first
prepared by Honoré Beaugrand in 1900.
His book, La chasse-galerie: Légendes
canadiennes was reissued in 1970
by Fides of Montreal. The author of the
following article, Yves Tessier vows he
saw signs of the phantom canoes in
La Mauricie National Park.

La Mauricie National Park, located about
24 km north of Shawinigan, Quebec,
presents an interesting transition be-
tween two important Canadian
geographical regions, the St. Lawrence
Lowlands and the Canadian Shield.

In this part of the country, the highest
marine terraces left by the Champlain
Sea give way to rocky formations from
the Precambrian era, Millions of years
separate these great geological works,
the fashioning of which was interrupted
by repeated glaciations.

Similarly, some deciduous species of
the Lowlands forest reach the northern

limit of their range in this area, and the -

: the Chasse-galerie

boreal forest with its stands of conifers
gradually takes over on the rising slopes
of the Laurentian Plateau.

The land here shows obvious signs of
glacial action, including rounded hills,
gently sloping valleys, long, narrow lakes
with moraine deposits along their
shores, and drift boulders, as unex-
pected as they are imposing.

The various reworkings of the land
have resulted in the creation of various
habitats — crystal-clear lakes, swampy
bogs and bare escarpments — suitable for
many different types of plant and
animal life.

It is in this typical ecological region
of eastern Canada that the 544 km2 of
territory making up La Mauricie National
Park, which has the St. Maurice River as
part of its eastern boundary, is located.

Over the years this river has served

2n the backcountry of The canoe was long the characteristic | nual event, which was first run in 1934, is
rice Valley and the mode of transportation in the St. Mau- held in early September on a 201.25 km
r. The Indians in their rice Valley. It was used by the natives, _ route between La Tuque and Trois-Rivié-
came down from the the explorers, the coureurs de bois and res. The race is divided into three
the missionaries to travel the many wa- stages, with stops in Saint-Roch-de-
terways of the region, which often were Mékinac and Shawinigan.
shallow. Thus it is not surprising that an Canoeists from the St. Maurice Valley
international canoe race came to be and the United States compete fiercely
held on the St. Maurice River. This an- for top honours in this race, known for

the swift rapids and demanding por-
tages on the route.

This is competitive canoeing, but there
are also many opportunities for pleasure
canoeing in La Mauricie National Park.
The calm waters of Wapizagonke Lake,
almost everywhere bordered by sandy
beaches, are dotted with tiny fir-covered
islands.

Faster water is found in the Mattawin
River, access to which requires difficult
portages. Simple campsites have been
set up along the route; however, in order
to maintain the original character of the
land, only the most basic of facilities
have been provided.

...Onawarm summer night on the
shore of Caribou lake, at the end of a day

of canoeing and exhausting portages,
| saw the spirits gliding past in their
canoe in the sky. So the legend of the
chasse-galerie really was true...

Originally written in French by Yves Tessier,
Head of the Map Library, University of Laval,
Quebec City. Yves, who has been a photog-
rapher for 20 years took these pictures in

La Mauricie National Park.

seven

Birthplace of

the National Parks

by W. Fergus Lothian

Canada’s first national park, Banff in
Alberta, celebrates its 90th birthday in
1977. Undimmed by time, Banff is the
shining jewel in a nationwide system of
parks and historic sites that extends
into every province and both territories.

From L’Anse-aux-Meadows, in New-
foundland, where Vikings settled 500
years before Cartier, to Mount Logan,
Canada’s tallest peak, in arctic Yukon,
Parks Canada administers 28 national
parks, 53 historic parks and sites and
seven heritage canals. Last year an es-
timated 21 million visitors shared the
heritage beauty of Parks Canada. More
than two million of those visitors passed
through Banff.

The founding of Canada’s first Na-
tional Park and the events leading up to
it are described by Parks Canada
historian Fergus Lothian.

eight

The construction of the first transcon-
tinental railway had brought hundreds of
adventurous and ambitious young men
across the western plains to the Rocky
Mountains. Here among the towering
peaks, some of them discovered mineral
hot springs flowing from the mountain-
side.

On acool November day in 1883,
Frank McCabe, a section foreman, and
William McCardell discovered what
are now known as the Cave and Basin
Hot Springs. The two men had come
up the newly-laid line by hand car from
Padmore, and crossed the Bow River
on a rough raft to examine the foot of
Terrace (now Sulphur) Mountain.

They literally stumbled on the basin
pool, fed by a hot spring, and the cave
spring, entry to which was gained by a
hole in the roof of the cavern.

Knowledge of the hot springs rapidly
spread among railway construction
workers. Strangely, McCabe and Mc-
Cardell expended little effort in protect-
ing their interest or in attempting
development until others working in the
vicinity erected shacks and made use

of the hot waters at both the lower and
upper springs.

Members of Parliament who had
visited Banff during the summer of 1885
strongly recommended reservation of
the springs for the purpose of a public
park.

Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald,
on October 16, 1885, sent a note to
Deputy Minister A. M. Burgess express-
ing the hope that “‘great care had been
taken to reserve all the land in or near
Hot Springs at Banff”.

On October 23, 1885, Thomas White,
Minister of the Interior, advised his
Deputy Minister by letter from Calgary as
follows: “My dear Burgess: | have just
returned from a visit to the Hot Springs
at Banff and have made up my mind that
it is important to reserve by Order-In-
Council, the sections on which the
springs are and those about them. | send
you amemorandum which Mr. Pearce
has prepared for me, and | wish you
would prepare a recommendation to

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3 The cave and basin, Banff National Park

National Park Established
The bill was read for the third time on
May 6, and the Act, since known as the
Rocky Mountains Park Act, received
Royal Assent on June 23, 1887.

The future concept of the park, its
scope and purposes were set out in the
dedication clause of the new Act, ‘“‘The

ten

said tract of land is hereby reserved and
set apart as a public park and pleasure
ground for the benefit, advantage and
enjoyment of the people of Canada,
subject to the provisions of this Act
and of the regulations hereinafter
mentioned, and shall be known as the
Rocky Mountains Park of Canada.”

In 1887, the Canadian Pacific Railway
began construction of the first of several

buildings to be known as the Banff
Springs Hotel. The site, admirably
located on a bench above the junction
of the Bow and Spray Rivers, was
selected personally by W. C. Van Horne,
the Vice-President of the Company.

The handsome five-storey building pro-
vided the finest accommodation in the
Park. Adjoining the hotel was a bath-
house containing two plunge baths

and ten tubs, all supplied with water from
the Upper Hot Springs.

The Lake Louise Reservation

Although the alpine splendour of Lake
Louise, situated about 35 km northwest
of Banff, had been known since its
discovery in 1882 by Tom Wilson, it was
not until 1892 that it was reserved,
within a surrounding area of 132.6 km?
as a forest park.

The majestic snow-capped peaks
surrounding the lake-some of them form-
ing the continental divide-provided an
irresistible challenge to mountain clim-
bers. The Railway Company encouraged
alpine activity by importing Swiss
guides, building a special lodge for their
accommodation at Lake Louise, and
placing their services, for a fee, at the
disposal of visitors. In 1902 the area
surrounding Lake Louise was incorpor-
ated in Rocky Mountains Park, when
the boundaries were extended westerly
to the continental divide.

There are now 28 National Parks in Can-
ada, from Newfoundland to Vancouver
Island, and into the Arctic; but Banff
National Park continues to draw more
visitors than any other. As Macdonald
foresaw, the visitors come not only from
this continent. In 1976, an estimated

20 000 Banff visitors came from Japan.
Ninety years after it was first established,
Banff’s magnetic beauty still justifies
the praise of Sir Donald Smith, the man
who drove the last spike in the first
transcontinental railway.

Speaking in support of the National
Park, Smith told the House of Com-
mons in 1887, “Anyone who has gone
to Banff, ... who has looked on the
reaches of the Bow River, and, on turning
beheld the mountains towering heaven-
ward, and not felt himself elevated and
proud that all this is a part of the Domin-
ion, cannot be a Canadian.”’

Marine parks: A world of
submerged beauty

by Claude Mondor

\

’ 1)
Thalassa ’
From times before time, until time’s end, ' \

Ceaselessly breathing to a timeless tune,
Learned minds cannot begin to

comprehend,

Leviathan’s untimely ruin,

And Mankind cannot begin to mend,

The Tragedy of the final harpoon

... 100 late comes far too soon.
Max Finkelstein

Canada has approximately 241 000 km
of coastline fronting on three oceans — -
the Arctic, the Atlantic and the Pacific —
giving it one of the longest and most
diversified coastlines on Earth. What
might be termed our submerged lands, ae 1
the continental shelf comprises an 0a TE A
area equal to over 40 per cent of our land th 7
area, equal in fact to that of both the ,) ;
Territories combined or to the total area | jae i
of Quebec, Ontario and Manitoba. ‘a ;
It is not surprising, therefore, that |
Canada’s past and future are inextri- H ia
cably interwoven with the seas. Since Psil :
the earliest times, Canadians have
clustered where the land and sea inter-
face, in order to harvest the living and :
non-living resources of the oceans.
The sea has been a highway for ex- \
plorers, merchants and immigrants, an :
area of importance to sovereignty and
defence, an inspiration to poets and
artists, a playground, an element both
loved and feared. It has been an environ-
ment that has influenced the general
development of the Atlantic fishing com-
munities, the Inuit and the Northwest
Coast Indians.

1 Fishing boat at Ucluelet, near Pacific Rim
National Park

2 Goose-necked barnacles, Pacific Rim

National Park

Seal lions, Pacific Rim National Park

Hermit crab, Fundy National Park

Anemones, coral and sea urchin, Pacific

Rim National Park

ak wo

twelve

Unfortunately, like other maritime
nations, Canadians have traditionally
viewed the sea as a bottomless garbage
can and as alimitless pot of gold. The
total impact of our activities on the sur-
rounding seas is impressive and fright-
ening. The most obvious results of these
activities being the declining produc-
tivity of our fisheries, and pollution from
oil, pesticides and waste disposal. This
pollution has in turn caused the closure
of shellfish beds in many parts of the

6 Herring gull, Prince Edward Island
National Park

7 Herring gulls and black-backed gulls,
Prince Edward Island National Park

8 Adenizen of the deep, Pacific Rim
National Park

Maritimes and the West Coast as a
source of human food. Perhaps the most
tragic example of human interference is
the virtual eradication of the immense
colonies of seabirds in the Gulf of

St. Lawrence, exploited for eggs, meat,
oil, feathers, fish bait, fertilizer and sport.
For such species as the flightless Great
Auk on Funk Island, Newfoundland, the
signing of the Migratory Bird Treaty of
1916 came too late.

The extermination of the southernmost
colonies of Atlantic walruses from the
Magdalen Islands and Sable Island, is
also deplorable, as is the reduction of
whale — and other marine mammal —
populations to:dangerously low numbers.

Unlike other countries, most of Can-
ada’s oceans are still in a relatively
natural condition. Consequently, we are
able to set aside and preserve some of
these unmodified marine environments
for the enjoyment of present and future
generations before they are polluted or
pre-empted for other activities.

To a great extent in the past, conser-
vation in Canada has stopped attheedge .
of the sea. Although Canada’s first
National Park was established at Banff
in 1885, it was more than 50 years later
before the first coastal national park was
established in 1937, along the ocean
beaches of Prince Edward Island. And,
it was only in 1970 that an area of sea
was included within the jurisdiction of
the National Parks Act by the incor-
poration of the adjacent marine environ-
ment at Forillon on the Gaspé Penin-
sula of Quebec and Pacific Rim on
Vancouver Island in British Columbia.

The idea of preserving areas of great
beauty in the sea has been slow to
develop in Canada, perhaps because
here it is only in the last decade that man
has entered the sea with facemask,
fins, and self-contained underwater
breathing appartus. It is also only in
recent years that the public has become
really aware of the natural beauty,
importance, diversity and fragility of our
oceans. Yet much of Canada’s rich
ocean heritage is largely unknown. The
Pacific Coast with its nutrient-rich wa-
ters, its relatively uniform seasonal
range of temperature and freedom from
winter icing, has probably the richest
echinoderm fauna in the world, including

thirteen

9 The end of the day, Prince Edward Island
National Park

the largest species of starfish, the
sunstar. The largest species of octopus
also inhabits this area.

Canada is one of the few nations in
the world which have resident popula-
tions of whales such as the bowhead
and beluga entirely within their national
boundaries. In addition part, or all of
two populations of great whales — the
blue and the fin whale — summer in the
Gulf of St. Lawrence.

Other features of Canada’s seas not
found in tropical oceans include ice-
bergs and kelp forests, individual fronds
of which can extend 30 m or more and
grow 60 cm a day.

Few Canadians are aware that Bona-
venture Island, Funk Island, Witless Bay
Island and Prince Leopold Island provide
refuge for the largest remaining seabird
colonies in the world.

So far Canada does not have a marine
national park, that is, a marine area pro-

fourteen

tected by the provisions and regulations
of the National Parks Act. Fortunately
encouraging progress has been made

in marine conservation within the last
decade.

Each of the existing coastal national
parks — Kouchibouguac, Pacific Rim
and Forillon, incorporates a marine com-
ponent, a small portion of the adjacent
sea, within its boundary.

Among the other coastal national
parks, Terra Nova, Auyuittug and Gros
Morne include only the intertidal marine
communities, for their boundaries ter-
minate at the ordinary low water mark.
The boundaries of Prince Edward Island
and Fundy National Parks end at the
ordinary high water mark.

Early efforts to overcome this obvious
deficiency focused on dividing Canada’s
ocean environments into marine regions,
each incorporating relatively similar
oceanographic and biological charac-
teristics. Nine of these marine regions
have already been tentatively identified.

Each marine region will be studied to
identify significant seascapes or areas
worthy of protection. To qualify, a region
must satisfy at least one of the following
Criteria: be an outstanding representa-
tion of an Atlantic, Arctic or Pacific
ecosystem; be a critical habitat of marine
mammals or seabirds; have underwater
seascapes of outstanding beauty and
inspirational value; or have marine
environments which permit marine-
oriented activities such as SCUBA diving
and the observation of marine mammals
and seabirds.

This identification and inventory pro-
cess has been completed for two marine
regions — the Gulf of St. Lawrence and
the Vancouver Island Inland Sea. Similar
studies have begun for the Labrador Sea
and the Atlantic southwest coastal
regions. Work on the remaining regions
will be started later this year.

One of the sites identified in the inven-

Surf off Long Beach, Pacific Rim National
Park

tory phase is currently under study with
the province concerned for possible
establishment as Canada’s first marine
national park. The realization of this
object would be a formidable Canadian
contribution to the recently announced
global marine conservation program,
“The Seas Must Live”. This program is
co-sponsored by the World Wildlife
Fund, and the International Union for the
Conservation of Nature and Natural
Resources.

Work has also begun on a marine
resources policy statement to provide
guidance on the management of marine
resources in those national parks under
the jurisdiction of Parks Canada, and for
those that may be incorporated in the
future.

Public awareness of the potential
riches beneath the seas and the threat
to the survival of the world’s oceans may
soon lead to the establishment of Can-
ada’s first marine national park, a posi-
tive step towards preserving a world of
submerged beauty and vitality.

... Too late comes far too soon!

Claude Mondor is a parks systems planner
for Parks Canada.

11

11

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fifteen

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Cette revue parait en anglais et en
francais. Pour la version frangaise, voir
au verso de la publication.

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help Cana-
dians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Canservattion

Parks
Canada

Parcs
Canada

iv

Volume 3, No. 4

AMAIA) omarion

Table of Contents

3 Winter on the Prairies: Lower Fort

Garry 1859
by Roderick Campbell

8 Shipwreck...the Angry Sea

10 The Colonel and the Cows:
Frolics on Citadel Hill
by Joseph Greenough

13 Bill Oliver: Footloose in the
National Parks

Cover: Lower Fort Garry.

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of the Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
Ottawa, 1977.

QS-7044-040-BB-A1

Editor: James D. Georgiles

Production: Barry P. Boucher

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo Credits: Shipwreck ...the Angry Sea,
Jim Shearon; The Colonel! and the Cows,
1,3 &5 Ted Grant; 2 & 4 Rudy Van Der Ham:
Footloose in the National Parks, all photo-
graphs by Bill Oliver.

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.
Address inquiries to The Editor,

Conservation Canada, Department of Indian
and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, Ontario

K1A 0OH4.

© Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1977

Pierre Des Marais Inc.
Contract No. O9KT. A0767-7-1003

tna

a
*

Each year more than 100 000 visitors
explore a colourful part of Canada’s
past at Lower Fort Garry, at Selkirk,
Manitoba, 30 km from Winnipeg, on the
shores of the historic Red River.

To step through the stone walls into
the spacious grounds and walk among
the buildings of this magnificently
restored fur-trading post is to sense
something of what life was like on the
frontiers of civilization 125 years ago.

The furnishings, costumes and fittings
of a 19th century Hudson’s Bay Com-
pany post have been retrieved or
recreated to evoke the mood of a period
when the Canadian West was still very
young and very much unknown.

The pictures on these pages portray
scenes of winter life at Lower Fort Garry
as itmust-have been some 125 years

four

BRIS sete re Se
Spr a - nti 4

isle enn ues Se

ago. Costumed guides and other Parks
Canada employees represent the men
and women who lived the harsh realities
of winter on the prairie.

One of the best descriptions of life
at Lower Fort Garry will be found in the
book, “Father of St. Kilda’, by Roderick
Campbell, published in 1901 by W. R.
Russell and Co. Ltd., London, England.

Its subtitle, “Twenty years in isolation
in the sub-arctic territory of the Hudson’s
Bay Company’”’, indicates to what
extent that area was then considered
remote and undeveloped. The following
extracts from the book paint a picture
of everyday life at the Fort.

‘“‘Lower Fort Garry, as | found it in 1859,
certainly showed outward signs of future
prosperity, however misty its past his-
tory might have been.

“As | climbed to the top of the high
river bank | found before me the Stone
Fort, so called because its houses and
loopholed wall were actually built of
stone, and in this were unique in my
Company’s vast domain. Its buildings
were shops and stores, with dwelling-
houses for the Company's officers and
servants.

“The whole fort was arranged in the
form of a parallelogram surrounded
by a wall twelve feet high. At each of the

_ four corners was a bastion pierced for
~ guns,-like the turrets of the old Scottish
embattled castles.

“At that time the fort was the station
_ at which, during the summer, boat
_ brigades were outfitted for Fort York or
_ other posts inland. Besides, a very large
farm had been brought under cultivation
_ inthe immediate vicinity. The task of
_ Surveying this farm in acres was my
_ test service for the Company.
“The experiment in agriculture proved
s ‘most encouraging, and the harvest
was everything that could be desired.
_ The golden-tinted wheat, the plump

round barley, the capital potatoes and

PSE TLE

turnips, soon showed the fertile capa-
bilities of the Red River Valley.

“The residents in the fort formed a
very lively community by themselves.
They had regular hours for the dispatch
of business, and afterwards, to beguile
the tedium of the long sub-Arctic nights,
they met together for a few hours’ jol-
lification, when old Scottish songs were
sung in voices cracked and sharpened
by the cold northern blasts.

“Materially assisted by French co-
gnac, Scotch whisky and Old Jamaica,
the fun was kept up merrily till some

slipped down and retired into a long
and peaceful slumber, At these carousals
a pint of liquor per head was the allow-
ance; and |, a boy of seventeen, was
included among the ‘heads’. Many a
prayer | uttered, fighting against a temp-
tation almost beyond human power to
resist, so far from home, so young, and
so alone.

“On the whole, | soon made up my
mind that the place was but a bit of the

five

ruder civilisation thrown haphazard
into the wilds.

“Its population consisted of four prin-
cipal elements: — first, the descendants
of the early French traders, or voya-
geurs, who intermarried with the Indians
and were the progenitors of the Metis
or Bois-brilées. These were settled on
both banks of the river from St. Boniface
to the United States boundary, and,
although quite without education, were
well-mannered and kind and obliging
to those who treated them as friends.

“The second element, akin to the first,
was provided by the descendants of
the Company’s servants, mostly Scots-
men from Orkney and the other islands
who also had married native wives.
These were the English-speaking half-
breeds, and lived on the lower banks of
the Red and Assiniboine Rivers. They
appeared to me more docile than the
others, and hospitable to a fault.

“The third element was the Suther-
land, Kildonan and Selkirk colony, who
lived in the parish of that name, and
were in easy circumstances. The warm,
hospitable instincts of their race still
lingered in their Scottish bosoms.

“The fourth group were the Swampy
Indians, who had somehow managed to
make their way up from the Bay, and
settle between Lower Fort Garry and

Six

‘Lake Winnipeg: They-too were polite and ~

kind in disposition.

“lt might have included as a fifth ele-
ment a native Indian population of two
or three thousand. There were two
distinct groups of these, the Ojibway
and the Salteaux, ruled over by five
chiefs. They used to meet in summer at
our forts and bask in the sun for months.
Their hunting grounds were situated
on both territories, and they were often
involved in serious hostilities, and not
only against each other.

“To save us all, red and white alike,
from ourselves, there were no less than
ten Roman Catholic, eight Church of
England, and four Presbyterian places
of worship within the legally defined
limits of the colony.

“Our officials, when they wished to
become Benedicts, often married Indian
girls. Many, however, did not care to do
so, and would petition the Company
to select wives for them and send them
out by the next boat. Their wishes were,
as a rule, complied with, and the selec-
tion was nearly always satisfactory.
Among the archives of the Company are
found receipts from factors running
thus: ‘Received per Lapwing, Jane
Goody, as per invoice, in good trim’ and
‘Received per Osprey, Matilda Timpins,
returned per Lapwing as not being in

accordance with description COhiaitied
in invoice.’ se

‘That the native ladies were as a rule

attractive, a personal reminiscence
will abundantly prove. It is a difficult
thing to say just where boyhood and
manhood part. There is no strict line of
demarcation. But in my own case, and
| fancy in most cases, it is marked by
the suddenly developed fe
ence for wom

eases to be regarded
Pr essnasé. and the idea of

woman in its pomp of loveliness and
purity dawns upon the young mind,
boyhood has ended for ever, and the
gravity of manhood, with all its woes
and cares, and all its self-sufficing and
self-respecting views and instincts,
has commenced.

“| remember the day — 9th November,

1859 — when this spring was touched

in my humble self. It was a superb sum-
mer day, and | was busy behind the
counter of my little store.

“By-and-by the door opened, and

three native ladies came in, They made
themselves very much at home, coming
inside the counter as they pleased, the
better to examine our new stock of
goods, | myself not escaping their keen
scrutiny, as part and parcel of the stuff
imported from another world. Up and

down stairs they flitted, enjoying them-
selves immensely, chattering gaily in
Cree, Salteaux, English, anything.

“One of the trio, a shade darker in
skin than the others, but with exquisite
black eyes and the features of a Grecian
statue, asked me very politely to go
upstairs with her, as she had founda
pair of gloves she would like.

“Soon amid much innocent laughter
and gaiety, | was fitting a glove on her
little hand. Heavens! what a spirit of joy
radiated from her eyes! She was dressed
in deep mourning, but there was no
trace of gloom in her gay explanation,
‘1am two-thirds Scotch, you know, and
my grandfather is not long dead’. | must
have looked my admiration too openly,
for she blushed suddenly.

“Evanescent as the colour was, it was
enough, and | realised that she was a
woman. | never beheld her face again.

a , She went to the Canadas and never

lass

districts... Forifi

returned. But she had opened a new
chapter of existence for me, and life was
a graver thing thereafter.

“After some skirmishes between
autumn and winter, snow and frost laid
hold of the ground sufficiently to enable
the annual northern packet to leave
the fort for the northern districts. The
first stretch was three hundred and fifty
miles over the ice on Lake Winnipeg
to Norway House.

“The party set out on 10th December,
and the means of transit were in the first
place sledges, drawn by splendid dogs,
and in the second snowshoes. These
sledges (of Indian design) were drawn
by four dogs to each, and carried a
burden of six to seven hundred pounds.
With such a load they travelled forty
miles a day.

“They traversed the frozen lake in
eight days, running at a quick jogtrot
from long before daybreak until dusk,
when a frozen whitefish, about two
pounds in weight, was thrown to each
dog. ~~
__ AtknguemdeamntS'stage the pace
Ss overhauled and repacked, one
the Bay, Hy for the
) offfMackenzie
¥.sets of packet-

, westward =

a “i>

bearers travelled.
and northward. i

”

ven
- Ae

Shipwreck...
.. the Angry Sea

In the last issue of Conservation Canada,
Claude Mondor described how Canada’s
past and future are inextricably inter-
woven with the seas, and he argued in
favour of the creation of a marine
national park, dedicated to the preser-
vation of a world of submerged beauty.

While planning for a marine national
park goes on, some of our existing
national parks contain vivid reminders
of man’s dependence on, and occa-
sional subjugation by, the sea.

At Gros Morne National Park in New-
foundland, about 40 km north of Corner
Brook, the rusted hull of a coastal
steamer lies where it ran.aground almost
60 years ago, the victim of an angry sea.
The story of the stricken ship is told on
a marker at the site, just north of Rocky
Harbour, not far from the Green Point
campground.

ee

including a baby sent ashore in a mail-

Shipwreck

Here during “the worst storm ever’,
the S.S. Ethie came aground on Decem-
ber 11, 1919. She was a good ship,
employed in the Newfoundland coastal
trade, and driven by both steam and
sail. However, she could no longer fight
the raging seas which were whipped

to. a froth by high winds. Her 92 passen-
gers and crew feared for their lives, for
the icy water and rock-lined shore
threatened. Luckily, all were saved,

bag. Time has partially eroded her hull
but the story of the Ethie lives on in
local folklore.

i

Ue iin et te

The Colonel and the Cows:
Frolics on Citadel Hill

by Joseph Greenough

Not all the great battles of Canadian
history have been military engagements,
a point confirmed in reading The Halifax
Citadel, 1825-1860: A Narrative and
Structural History, recently published
as Volume 17 in the series Canadian
Historic Sites, Occasional Papers in
Archaeology and History.*

The report by Parks Canada historian
Joseph Greenough discusses the build-
ing of the present Halifax Citadel, the
background in which the building took
place and the structure of the fortress
and its individual components.

The view from Citadel Hill is one of
the great enjoyments to be found in
modern Halifax and thousands of per-
sons each year find momentary rest and
contentment on the long, gentle slope
which military engineers call a glacis.

The following extract from Joseph
Greenough’s report deals with the con-
tinuing battle waged by the Command-
ing Royal Engineer at Halifax to defend
the still-developing slopes of the Citadel
from transient invasion almost 120

years ago:

ten

“Colonel Richard John Nelson, was in
many ways the most singular Command-
ing Royal Engineer ever to serve in
Halifax. He was a specimen of that pecu-
liarly Victorian type — the insatiably
Curious amateur scientist. Humourless,
righteous and pedantic, Nelson none-
theless had some impressive achieve-
ments behind him when he came to
Halifax. He was the author and illustrator
of the definitive study of Bermudan
geology. He had produced articles for
the professional papers of the Royal
Engineer corps on a variety of topics in
military and civil engineering, and he
had been one of the editors of The Aide-
Memoire to the Military Sciences, the
standard dictionary on the subject for
all his fellow military engineers. His
most recent publication had been a book
on the study of German which he had
given the curious title, Lock-speise or
inducement to the Study of German

by the Removal of the Last Serious Diffi-
culty in the Way of a Beginner.

“His articles on the composition of
military reports and on the duties of an
engineer officer reflected his belief
that there were correct and incorrect
ways of doing things. This rigidity of
Opinion coupled with his natural inter-
est in the minutiae of engineering, made
him potentially troublesome as a prac-
tising military engineer.

“Even in the 1850s, urban development
had spread as far as North Park Street
on the north side of the Citadel and
South Park Street on the south. Since
the Citadel was squarely in the centre
of the city, the local citizens were wont
to treat it as their collective property.
They took shortcuts across the slopes
of the hill in getting from one part of town
to another, took tourists to the crest of
the glacis to get the best view of the city,
picnicked there on holidays and (appar-
ently) caroused there during the sum-
mer nights — all of which was bound to
offend Nelson’s sensibilities. Moreover,
some of the citizens kept livestock on
the common, and the animals were
forever straying (Nelson claimed that
they were purposely allowed to stray)
onto the glacis, pawing up the turf and
eating the grass. All this, so far as
Nelson was concerned, was intolerable.
Proper respect was not being shown
for the War Department’s property. What
was worse, the work being so carefully

—_

Uniform of the period

2 Theclock tower, Halifax, Nova Scotia

3 Rugby match on garrison grounds at the
foot of the glacis

performed by the engineers was being
undone by the wanton depredations of
the populace. Soon after he arrived in
Halifax, Nelson resolved to do some-
thing about it.

“His colleagues first learned of his
intentions in the spring of 1859. The
Deputy Commissary General had rou-
tinely called for tenders for the lease
of War Department lands in Halifax on
12 March. The land to be leased out
included, of course, the Citadel glacis.
When the tenders were opened on 15
April, it was found that only one man had
applied for the glacis, the same Mr.
Thomas Neville who had rented the land
the previous year. At this point, Colonel
Nelson announced that he considered
it inadvisable to lease the glacis at all.

3

‘A few weeks later Nelson wrote sug-
gesting specific measures which could
be to taken to protect the glacis. The
letter has not been located, but it would
seem to have suggested fairly drastic
measures to uphold the rights of the
military. It brought a withering reply from
Major General Charles Trollope, the
local commanding officer:

‘The Major General Commanding does
not feel disposed upon his own authority
to meet the Citizens of Halifax with a
Military array to prevent them from
trespassing on the Glacis of the Citadel
for the purpose of walking about, or
obtaining a view of the Harbour and
Surrounding country.’

“The remainder of the general’s letter
displayed commendable common sense.

{bate

Trollope promised to forward Nelson’s
complaint to the Secretary of State for
War and suggested a practical way in
which cattle could be kept from trespas-
sing. He gave it as his opinion that ‘the
posts and ropes erected at the angles
of the ditch were calculated to attract
children and Idlers to the Crest of the
Glacis’ (Nelson annotated this. ‘Not so—
but ordered to be immediately removed
this day’). He promised support ‘in any
measure indispensible to prevent spe-
cific damage’ but was ‘unwilling to enter
into any measures which may extend
contested points with the citizens’.

“Surprisingly, the Secretary of State
for War, when informed of the problem,
dispatched detailed suggestions for
its alleviation. These were, if anything,
even sillier than Nelson’s. The secretary
suggested the construction of formal
walkways, letting the property (appar-
ently on the theory that, if it were fenced
for cattle, the populace would be kept
off the glacis) and planting trees along
the east side of the glacis. Trollope
again defended the existing situation.
He noted that the slopes were too steep
to allow walks to be built, that the CRE
had prevented the leasing of the glacis,
and that both the walks and the planting
of trees would interfere with the fortifi-
cations. He hinted delicately that trees
presented an additional problem, ‘the
Glacis is contiguous to an extensive
locality styled Barrack Street or Top
Street which contains numerous houses
the special resort of Sailors from the
Fleet, opposite to which a plantation of
Trees would be anything but an advan-
tage to the Inhabitants who might be
shocked by scenes not now under their
observation.’

“Throughout the whole business,
Trollope displayed a good deal of com-
mon sense which, unfortunately, was
entirely lost on Nelson’s literal mind.
The colonel simply paid no attention to
the general and continued to try to get
his own way. Having failed to defeat
Trollope by direct assault he resorted
to all the strategems available to an
engineer launching, a long siege. He
sapped, mined, made surprise attacks
and patiently waited.

eleven

“Nelson’s next approach was through
the War Department’s solicitor, Mr. J.W.
Ritchie, Nelson formally requested an
opinion on the subject of the glacis.
The violent exaggeration in his letter is
typical of the man:

‘The Glacis is legally protected from
trespass by the post and rail fence all
arount (sic) it but it affords no physical
impediment to those who choose to

get over it at any point.

‘Such physical impediments as sub-
stantial palisading, high walls, etc.,
would be prejudicial to the Defence and
planting Sentries all round would be a
heavy demand on the Garrison.

‘If the present system of unrestricted
trespass is permitted, where will it stop?
Or how can it be stopped without legal
proceedings, or point of bayonet?’

“All this was for the benefit of the gal-
lery; Nelson knew that the letter would
ultimately be forwarded to London. The
actual question he posed was whether
or not access to the glacis could be
granted to the citizens ‘under such re-
Strictions that they can be excluded
whenever the interest of the Service
shall require it’.

twelve

4 Visitors to Citadel Hill
5 Inspection of the guard

“Nelson was, by now in the unenviable
position of being at loggerheads with
the citizens, Trollope and the War De-
partment all at once. If he went through
the motions of besieging Trollope, it was
to no purpose, he was himself under
siege.

“Surprisingly, Nelson’s letter to Trol-
lope enclosing his correspondence with
Ritchie was relatively restrained. The
colonel blustered on for a few para-
graphs, complained that Ritchie's reply
threw ‘not one fresh ray of light on the
subject’ and concluded with a few com-
paratively sensible (if complicated)
suggestions.

‘1. To exclude the public altogether
from the finished portions (of the glacis)
by means of a light hurdle fencing ...

2. To putup notices that all found
within those fences will be certainly
prosecuted.

3. To put up notices that the casual
use of the unfinished portions of the
Glacis until further warning will be fully
permitted, but will be withdrawn as

the work progresses.

4. Tolegitimise at once the very con-
venient footpath leading across the N.E.
of the Glacis ... by wickets, to be closed
annually with all thoroughfare granted
on sufferance’.

“Trollope concurred with the last sug-
gestion. He recommended against the
fences suggested in the first, since they
would lead to ‘no other effect than to
excite boys to climb and leap on them’.
He noted that, in his opinion, the citizens
had done no real damage to the glacis
and that the newly built portions could
be easily protected, and recommended
that glacis be leased immediately for
sheep pasture. With the last suggestion,
Nelson strongly disagreed.

“Nelson resigned on 25 July 1861,
probably because of ill-health. One
emerges from his correspondence with
the feeling that he may have been a
little mad. Although he muted his com-
plaints about trespassing after his noisy
collision with Trollope, he apparently

_Maintained his rigid convictions right

to the end of his stay in Halifax.

“In one of his letters to Mr. Ritchie,
Nelson tried to get the solicitor to prose-
cute the owner of a cow he had caught
trespassing on the glacis. ‘Mr. McCully’s
cow is an old offender’ he wrote, ‘She
may be a good ‘fencer’ | have seena
cow take the railing round the citadel
at a clean bound-cleverly.’ There is
no record of Ritchie’s reply. But then,
what could he have said?”’

Canadian Historic Sites: Occasional
Papers in Archaeology and History is
published by the National Historic Parks
and Sites Branch of Parks Canada. The
series is also issued in French, as Lieux
historiques canadiens: Cahiers d’ar-
chéologie et d’histoire.

Titles may be ordered through your
local bookseller, or from:
Printing and Publishing
Supply and Services Canada
Ottawa, Ontario
Canada K1A 0H4

Bill Oliver:
Footloose in
the National Parks

The unchanging appeal and enduring
beauty of Canada’s National Parks
highlight a new exhibition of old photo-
graphs produced by Parks Canada.
“Footloose in the National Parks”’
is an exhibition of the work of W. J.
“Bill” Oliver, a Calgary photographer
who died in 1954.

1 Bill Oliver in Banff National Park, Alberta.
2 Mt. Lefroy, Banff National Park, Alberta.

W.J. Oliver was a very young butcher’s
apprentice in Canterbury, England in
1908 when he won a camera by gues-
sing the weight of a block of coal on
display in a drug store window.

In 1910, Bill Oliver emigrated to
Canada hoping to find butcher work in
Calgary. He found instead a new career
as a news photographer on the morning
Albertan.

Soon after, Oliver encountered Banff
National Park and began a 30-year
association with the National Parks

1 William J. Oliver au parc national Banff
en Alberta.

2 Lemont Lefroy al’arriére-plan, au parc
national Banff en Alberta.

Branch that took him to every part of
Canada. His pictures made Canada’s
wilderness beauty world famous.

He also filmed more than 50 motion
pictures, including an enormously suc-
cessful ‘““Grey Owl” series.

In 1946, the magazine “Canada’s
Weekly” said of Bill Oliver, “He climbed
mountains, scrambled over glaciers,
hung by the eyelashes to crags, all in

thirteen

3 Lakes in the Clouds—near Lake Louise,

Banff National Park, Alberta

4 Snowpeak Avenue, Yoho National Park,

British Columbia

5 Snow mushrooms, Lake Louise, Banff,

National Park, Alberta

search of good publicity material.”’ It
might be added that Oliver did all this

while carrying some 27 kg of equipment.

The photographs in this exhibition
have been chosen to represent the
boundless beauty of the National Parks
of Canada as captured and preserved
by the camera of Bill Oliver between
1920 and 1940.

fourteen

His work, according to one reviewer,
demanded ‘“‘the effort of the big game
hunter, the endurance of the explorer,
the courage of the R.C.M.P., the patience
of Job and the kindness to animals of
St. Francis of Assisi’’.

Many of the pictures in this exhibition
are more than 50 years old. Their endur-
ing freshness and drama are a tribute
to Bill Oliver’s creative spirit. We have

better cameras today, but not better
photographers.
This exhibition was produced for Parks
Canada by Dwight Dolan, with technical
advice and assistance from W. F. Lothian
and Jack Holroyd. Photos were printed
by the Canadian Government Photo
Centre and mounted by the Canadian
Government Expositions Centre of the
Department of Supply and Services.
After a preview showing in Ottawa,
the W. J. Oliver exhibition began a cross-
country tour at Battleford, Saskatche-

3 Lacs enchassés dans les montagnes,

au-dessus du lac Louise, que |’on apercoit

en bas a gauche. Au parc Banff.

national Yoho en Colombie-Britannique.
5 Neige insurgée dans la région du lac
Louise au parc Banff.

wan in September. The Banff Centre
and Regina were among October and
November stops.

The exhibition will be at the Glenbow
Institute in Calgary during December
and January. A Toronto showing is
scheduled for February 1978.

L’avenue Snowpeak (pic neigeux) au parc

Pee Se tL ae

ty
¥

Mey

x
my
&

Inquiries about the W. J. Oliver photo
exhibition, including requests for book-
ings, should be addressed to the Chief,
Parks Canada Information Division,
Ottawa, Ontario K1A 0H4.

fifteen

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cation
ANAGIA — siverro7

ans ervation™=
anaca Spring 1978

Cette revue parait en anglais et en
francais. Pour la version frangaise, voir
au verso de la publication.

Parcs
Canada

Parks
Canada

iv

Volume 4, No. 1, 1978

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help Cana-
dians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Table of Contents

3 Camping in the National Parks

7 Fundy: A Park for All Seasons
by Mary Majka

11. Vincent Massey: A Significant
Canadian

12 The Bells of Baddeck
by P. Richard Lindo

Note: Different pictures appear in the
English and French versions.

Cover: The flag ceremony at Fort Wellington,
Prescott, Ontario. Here in November 1838, a
small garrison defeated a force of rebel
“patriots” and American sympathizers.
(Photo: Steve Shaw)

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of the Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
Ottawa, 1978.

QS-000

Editor: James D. Georgiles

Production: Joffre Feren

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo Credits: Camping in the National
Parks, 2, Ted Grant; 4, Jim Foley. Fundy: A
Park for All Seasons, 1, K. Drysdale; 2 and 8,
Ted Grant; 4, D. Hondie. The Bells of
Baddeck, 4, Gilbert Grosvenor.

Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1978
Pierre Des Marais Inc.
Contract No. O9KT. A0767-7-1003

An index to Volumes 1, 2 and 3 can be
obtained by writing to The Editor,
Conservation Canada.

Articles may be reproduced with a credit line.
Address inquiries to The Editor, Conservation
Canada, Department of Indian and Northern
Affairs, Ottawa, Ontario

K1A OH4.

«My

in the National

Canada is a beautiful country and its
national parks preserve some of our
most beautiful areas.

Camping in one of Canada’s national
parks offers visitors not only the oppor-
tunity to enjoy the great outdoors but
also the chance to understand it. In our
national parks visitors can breathe in the
invigorating unspoiled air and experi-
ence the wonders of nature.

Our national parks have been set
aside so that Canadians will always have
special places of natural beauty and
serenity that preserve the original face
of our land. They have been dedicated
by Parliament for the benefit, education
and enjoyment of the people of Canada
for all time.

There is at least one national park in
every province and territory, twelve in
Western Canada, six in Central Canada,
seven in the Atlantic provinces and three
north of 60° in the Yukon and Northwest
Territories. The Trans-Canada Highway
and other major roads provide access

four

On the trail, Banff National Park, Alberta
Setting up camp in Banff National Park
Hiking alongside Bow Lake, Banff
National Park

4 Winter, Banff National Park

Wr

routes to most of Canada’s 28 national
parks.

Each national park offers the camper
beautiful spots in which to pitch a tent
Or park a recreational vehicle. Most
national parks have at least one camp-
ground where organized groups can
camp together in a natural setting. In
many parks the backpacker can trek
into wilderness areas and enjoy primi-
tive camping along the way.

There are four general types of camp-
grounds: those that can accommodate
both tents and recreational vehicles,
those designed strictly for tent campers,
those that welcome organized groups
and those that offer a primitive camping
experience.

Whether you are a trailer camper ora
backpacker, a bird-watcher or mountain
climber, there is a national park to suit
your appetite for the great outdoors. The
national parks offer a wide variety of
Summer and winter recreational facil-
ities.

1 Surunsentier en montagne au parc
national Banff en Alberta

2 Oncampe au parc national Banff en
Alberta

3 Promeneurs au bord du lac Bow a Banff |

4 Bien au chaud au parc national Banff

Try swimming at the fine beaches in |
Pacific Rim, Gros Morne, Forillon and |
Prince Edward Island national parks or’
treat yourself to a dip in the mineral hot
springs at Banff, Jasper and Kootenay
national parks.

Ride on horseback through the moun
tains in Banff, Jasper, Waterton Lakes,
Yoho, Prince Albert and Riding Moun- |
tain national parks or explore the wilde’
ness areas of La Mauricie and Kejimkuji!
by canoe.

You will find excellent fishing at Terr:
Nova, Fundy, Cape Breton Highlands
and La Mauricie in the summer and ice’
fishing at Prince Albert and Riding
Mountain in the winter.

The towering snow-capped peaks in |
Glacier, Kluane and Auyuittuq national
parks invite the experienced mountain |
climber, while the snowy slopes in Ban’
Jasper and Riding Mountain offer thril-
ling skiing for both experts and begin-
ners.

f
|

6 five

You can practise your golf or your
tennis at Fundy, Jasper, Banff, Elk Island
and Riding Mountain national parks.
Boating is popular in many national
parks and in some of them you can rent
Canoes and rowboats. Every park has
special enjoyment for the hiker, photo-
grapher and nature lover.

There are also many opportunities to
experience first-hand the wonders of
nature in the world’s most beautiful
classroom — the great Canadian out-
doors. Self-guiding nature trails are
provided in many parks so that visitors
can explore on their own by following
signs along the route. Those who prefer,
can share guided nature walks with park
naturalists, or enjoy campfire chats and

six

5 Sur les hauteurs des Rocheuses a Banff
6 Un oiseau des Rocheuses, le casse-noix

5 On the way up, Banff National Park
6 Clarke’s nutcracker (Nucifraga
columbiana)

américain (Nucifraga columbiana)

film presentations. Park pamphlets de-
scribe the wild animals and flowers that
abound in the park.

Parks Canada has just published a
new guide, ‘“‘Camping in the National
Parks of Canada’. This booklet provides
a brief description of the recreational
opportunities in each of the national
parks and detailed information on the
facilities available in each campground,
as well as general park and travel
information.

If you would like a copy of ‘‘Camping
in the National Parks’, please mail your
request to Camping Guide, Parks Can-
ada, Ontario K1A 0H4, Attention: Don
Wilson. Print your name and address
clearly and a copy will be sent to you
free of charge.

Fu ndy: 1 Conducted hike 1 Excursion guidée
A Park for
All Seasons

by Mary Majka

The Bay of Fundy, which separates the
provinces of New Brunswick and Nova
Scotia, has unusual physical and histor-
ical attractions. The bay is remarkable
for its tremendous tides, believed to be
the highest in the world. Spring tides
attain a rise of from 18.3 m to 21.3 m,
while during periods of ordinary flow,
the tides vary in height from 12.2 m to
iovceny
Known to Europeans since the 16th
century, the bay was shown on the
Cabot map of 1544. By the end of the
16th century, the bay was known as the
Bay of Fundy. For many years it was
believed that the name was derived from
the Portuguese ‘‘fondo”’ meaning deep.
Later research led to the opinion that
the name was an English corruption of
pg <a - — " peas mma, the French word ‘‘fendu’’, meaning split.
Soi oe el ete ale ern SM i Guus An area overlooking the Bay of Fundy
ss — ‘ , ie "a was selected in 1947 for the establish-
ment of the first national park in New
Brunswick. Mary Majka, a New Bruns-
wick resident who knows and loves this
beautiful park, has told the Fundy story
in a book published by Brunswick Press
of Fredericton, N.B., Fundy National
Park, $4.95. The following extracts are
taken from her delightful book:

“Fundy is not large as National Parks
go; in Canada there are many larger
ones. Some of them offer different, some-
times more exciting types of recreation
or scenery. And yet, as we will try to
discover. Fundy is a special park.
“Fundy National Park was established
in 1948 as a 20 km? area of forest, slop-
ing towards the sea and deeply cut by
river and stream valleys, including some
of the most interesting and beautiful
features of the Bay of Fundy. But the
scenery and charm should not be the
only aspect a visitor looks for, nor
should the recreational possibilities oc-

seven

poo s yield their treasures of plarish
oe nd sec
‘covers itsel with a

nsect larvae com-
plete their aquatic cycles and emerge as
dragonflies or mosquitoes. The summer
day is long and in the evening the frogs
call from the swamps. Or perhaps one is
. lucky to see the majestic silhouette of a
mae on : . moose appear at the edge of the water.
=. “Autumn begins in September. Al-
though the days may be warm, the tem-
_ perature at night drops, and soon the ©
trees start to turn colour, reaching their
peak between September 20 and Pee at

Reh

Nany p ople prefer this time of the
_ year for vacationing. There is a serene
_ and quiet atmosphere about the park _

d artists.
le rivers andforthose
who went to try their luck, there are ep
pools along the Alma River with ae
_ fish to be seen, if not always willing to ~*

be caught! As the trees start to acquire
heir brilliant. hues, mushrooms seem to.
spring up everywhere.
“Winter starts around the last days: of
December, but there are many days ©
_ when snow covers the ground i in Novem-
ber. pret remes winter | is rather Saha

svered oe any feet of snow, and
“ trees are all adorned with icicles. and
- snow crystals, the weather improves’and
_the sun shines day after day, changing
the landscape into a winter wonderland.
_ “Much of nature rests, hibernates and
ring, but many animals and
plat ntinue their activities and some
of them thrive in this cold environment.
- Moose and deer gather together in yards
_sometimes numbering many individuals,
sometimes just a few. In the park, moose
yards are found at higher elevations
whereas the deer move down to the
shore where the snow is less deep and
the climate less severe. The moose’s
diet consists of twigs; the deer also dig
for food under the snow. Porcupines
climb trees and stay for days feeding on ~~...
the inner bark. Mice feed on seeds, | < ee,
rabbits on twigs, and the weasel, fox and .
obcat ae smallermammals.
birds stay in the park during Se ea
winter ve, some even arrive from the
cele spend the winter here. The sea- Le
_ shore life descends tothelowerlevels
of the shore where the water shelters
: and protects it from frost and ice.

_ “Many winter activities take place in
‘the park: cross-country skiing, snow-
shoeing, winter camping, tobogganing,
and skating on the lakes. There are a
growing number of winter enthusiasts
who enjoy the snow and the beauty of
this northern park.

The Giant Tides of Fundy

“One needs a long rope to tie a boat to
the wharf in Alma. Why? Simple, the boat
will have a long ride up or down, de-
pending on the tide. Going to a beach?
Do not plan a picnic too near the edge
of the water. You might end up scram-

bling up the rocks to escape the rising
tide, or find that the waves have disap-
peared a kilometre away. There are even
roads and bridges in Albert County that
disappear when the tide is high, and
peninsulas that become islands. You
ight think it a most unsettled situation.
_ “Living at the shore of the Bay of
Fundy or near the mouth of a creek or
river that flows into it, one must live
according to tides. Instead of looking
lat a clock, one gets used to looking at
the tide tables. A trip by boat, a swim or
even a visit to your neighbour may not
De possible if the tide is wrong. Tides
are caused by the gravitational pull of
the moon. Nowhere in the world are the
ides higher and the influence so pro-
round as in the Bay of Fundy.
_ “Twice in twenty-four hours, the water
rises and twice it recedes, a constant
coming and going. The daily onrush of
waters not only assaults the rocky shores
out pushes its way into tidal rivers, re-
ersing their flow and flooding their
\anks. Thousands of hectares of tidal
nud flats and marshes are covered with
salty water for a few hours every day,
2nabling a special world to exist. Grasses
and other plants, fishes, insects, birds
and mammals are closely tied to the rise
and fall of the sea.”’

Vincent Massey:
A Significant
Canadian!

Canada’s first native-born Governor
General, Vincent Massey, was commem-
orated i in a ceremony at Hart House

A oe

overnor Genetal: unveiled

a national historic plaque which had

been erected on the recommendation

itted ecnadicn = a man who loved

his country fiercely”.

“As Governor General, Vincent

Massey travelled to every part of our

| country urging all Canadians
ite our good fortune.”
marking the 50th anniver-
he Canadian Club of Montreal,
assey said, “We have many
om abroad and we are proud
bag ngetish and snow them |

He became Governor General in 1952
and served as the Queen’s official
representative in Canada until 1959.

After his retirement, he directed the
Massey Foundation and established
Massey College, a graduate college at
the University of Toronto. Vincent |
Massey died December 30, 1967.

An R.C.M.P. constable by the Vincent Massey
memorial plaque .

Le jour de la cérémonie, un agent de la

& R.C. eae de la plaque oe

The text of the national historic _
plaque which now stands on public om
iS DIAY at Hart iasetewtl bl ne University ee

)f ad: "

eleven

The Bells.
of a

by P: nee Lindo*

z Alexendee Graham Bell arid his family
first visited the Cape Breton town of
- Baddeck in the summer of 1885. The
Bells, en route to Newfoundland, made

a stop in Cape Breton at the sugestion.—_-

of Mrs. Bell’s father, Gardiner Greene
Hubbard, who was acquainted with that
part of Nova Scotia because of his
interest in the Caledonia coal mines

at Glace Bay.

A few years earlier, Bell had read
Charles Dudley Warner’s book, Baddeck
and that Sort of Thing. He remembered
Warner’s description of the charms of
Baddeck and decided to see it for
himself. He was not disappointed, for
Warner had not overdrawn the appeal
of the town. A few days later when the
steamer for St. John’s ran aground
near Portugal Cove, the Bells cancelled
their Newfoundand trip in favour of
a return visit to Baddeck.

The second visit confirmed first
impressions. “Baddeck is certainly
possessed of a gentle, restful beauty’,
wrote Mabel Bell, ‘‘and | think we would

*Senior Curator, Specialist Unit
‘ Interpretation Division
Parks Canada.

twelve

be content to stay here many weeks

_just enjoying the lights and shades
“on all the hills and isles and lakes”.

As for Alexander Graham Bell, the
Bras d’Or Lakes reminded him of the
salt lochs of his beloved Scotland and
he felt very much at home not only
with the scene but also with the people
of Cape Breton, with their Scottish
background and names reminiscent
of the Highland Clans.

For many years the Bells had been
seeking a summer retreat of salt water,

mountains and valleys and cool climate,

far enough from fashionable centres

to allow them to live a simple, free and
unconventional life. Baddeck fulfilled
all their requirements. The cool climate
was particularly appealing to Bell, for
he hated the summer heat of his
Washington home.

Returning to Baddeck in the summer
of 1886 the Bells rented an abandoned
four-room cottage on the outskirts
of the town. The cottage, which they
later bought and enlarged, fronted on
Baddeck Bay. Across the bay several
farms divided a headland which
stretched approximately three kilome-

- climbed to the top of Redhead. From |

tres out into the blue lake. The red |
bluffs at its top gave this jutting pean:
sula the local name Redhead.

In their exploratory trips about the
countryside Bell and Mabel one day

a little clearing at the summit they could
see a magnificent panorama of the

Bras d’Or Lakes. The view so fascinated |
them that they determined to own the
hill.
It took Bell seven years to acquire
all the land he needed. Renaming the |
headland ‘“‘Beinn Bhreagh’”’,, Gaelic for |
Beautiful Mountain, he made plans
to erect an elaborate house on the
property. In the meantime, he and his
family were to spend the summers in

the “Lodge’’, a cottage which he and his |
secretary, Arthur W. McCurdy, designed |

and had built in 1889.

When the main house, Beinn Bhreagh |
Hall, was completed in 1893 regional
newspapers described it as one of the
finest mansions in eastern Canada.
In the words of one of Bell’s grand-
daughters, Lilian Grosvenor Jones,

f

“the house was, and is, big and ugly in
the flamboyant style of the eighties”’.

1 The headland at Baddeck

Nevertheless for. Bell — hie famil

the house was to give long and happy.

service.

By the time Bell had begun to estab- =

lish his summer home near Baddeck —

he was already internationally recog--
nized, not only for his invention of the

telephone but also for other products
of his creative genius. As he achieved ©
financial independence, it became
possible for him to devote his time to
research in other fields.

For many years Bell had had an inter-
est in flight, or as he preferred to call
it, aerial locomotion. At Baddeck he
pursued this interest with characteristic
energy, and began studying the flight
of kites, considering this the best and
safest approach to the problem of avia-
tion. By 1901 he was working with a
tetrahedrally designed kite, a design
based on the triangular pyramid which
gave it stability. In the following years,
giant kites of this type were built and
flown,

Bell’s experimental work attracted
to his home at Beinn Bhreagh a group
of talented young men devoted to
aviation. In October, 1907, at the sug-

1 La pointe a Baddec

gestion of Mabel Bell, he entered into
an agreement with these men for the
joint production of experiments on
aerial locomotion. The organization was
named the Aerial Experiment Associa-

tion and its work was financed by

Mrs. Bell.

The Association included Bell, Glenn
H. Curtiss, a manufacturer of motor-
cycles and engines from Hammondsport,
New York, F. W. (Casey) Baldwin and
J. A. D. McCurdy, both engineering
graduates from the University of Toronto,
and Lieut. Thomas E. Selfridge of the
U.S. Army.

“dn 18 << of aes at hott

i = pantreamianort and Baddeck, the
-- Association made important contribu-
-tions to the development of aviation.

By mutual agreement, each member

~ was charged with the responsibility of

designing and supervising the con-
struction of a powered machine. The
fourth machine, McCurdy’s Silver Dart,
was built at Hammondsport and taken.
to Baddeck. On February 23, 1909,
McCurdy, in the Silver Dart, took off
from the ice of Baddeck Bay and flew
a distance of 800 m. This was the first
airplane flight in Canada and the first ©
by a British subject anywhere in the
British Empire.

While experimenting with airplanes,
Bell and his associates sought to apply
the principles of powered flight to boats.
Baldwin was particularly interested in
this line of experiments. Over a number
of years, he and Bell developed a sys-
tem of hydrofoils which saw practical
application in the highly successful
HD-4, the large cigar-shaped hydrofoil
craft which, in 1919, achieved a record
water speed of 114.04 km/h. In the
1950’s the Canadian Navy adopted the
Bell-Baldwin system of hydrofoils for

thirteen

ow

use in its prototype ship, the H.M.C.S.
Bras d’Or.

Until virtually the last days of his life
Bell remained a man of driving energy
and insatiable scientific curiosity.

A single project was never enough to
preoccupy him. While experimenting
with flying machines or hydrofoil craft,
he also busied himself attempting to
develop a flock of twin-bearing sheep,
a research project which he enthus-
iastically maintained for almost 30 years.
He also turned his attention to life-
saving devices, experimenting with
methods of recapturing water from
human breath, and with a type of solar
still which could provide drinking
water aboard small boats adrift at sea.

Of all his interests, however, the one
that Bell himself identified as being
closest to his heart, and certainly the
one that ran through all his adult life,
was his interest in improving the
teaching of the deaf.

Alexander Graham Bell wanted the
deaf to be taught speech and lip
reading, not a sign language that set
them apart from normal persons. Helen
Keller, whose education he helped
direct, and his own wife Mabel, who
had been deaf since the age of five as
a result of an attack of scarlet fever,
showed what could be done.

Bell conducted extensive research
on the heredity of deafness, published
numerous articles on the subject and
gave financial assistance to individuals
and organizations devoted to the edu-
cation of the deaf. His own organiza-
tion, the Volta Bureau, which he formed
with funds he received as his share
from the sale of graphophone patents,
continues its good work today in
Washington, D.C., under the name
Alexander Graham Bell Association
for the Deaf.

For the people of Baddeck it was a
matter of considerable civic pride to
have such a famous resident among
them. They admired and respected Bell
and, despite his tendency to be some-
what aloof at times, felt comfortable
in his presence. As for Mabel Bell, the
feeling for her was one of genuine
affection. Today, those among the resi-
dents of Baddeck who knew her, speak
of Mrs. Bell as a “‘very remarkable
lady” who was in no way overshadowed
by the greatness of her husband.

Through her efforts the Baddeck
Public Library was established, a Home
and School Association was organized
and the services of a V.O.N. nurse were

fourteen

2 Bell with Helen Keller and Anne Sullivan
(centre), 1894

Beinn Bhreagh

Mabel and Alexander in the garden at
Beinn Bhreagh

Ww

obtained. A pet project of hers, the
Cape Breton Home Industries, provided
opportunities for many women in that
area to develop skills in sewing, knitting
and lace-making.

The fine craftsmanship which is very
much in evidence in Cape Breton today
is probably due in part to the work of
her organization. But Mabel is perhaps
best remembered for her Young Ladies’
Club of Baddeck, a club which she
founded in 1891 to “‘stimulate the
acquisition of general knowledge and
to promote sociability among the young
people of Baddeck’’. The club, with
its name changed to the Alexander

2 Bell et Helen Keller. Debout, Anne
Sullivan. En 1894

3 La demeure des Bell, Beinn Breagh

4 Alexander et sa femme Mabel dans le
jardin de Beinn Breagh

Graham Bell Club, continues to function

today with a full and active program.

In 1954 the daughters of Bell, Mrs.
Gilbert Grosvenor and Mrs. David
Fairchild, generously donated to the
people of Canada a priceless collection
of artifacts, relics of experimental
work conducted at Beinn Bhreagh,

which reflect the extraordinary versatile |

mind of Bell.

The Canadian Government agreed,
in return, to construct and maintain
a suitable building for the extensive
collection. The Alexander Graham Bell
Museum, opened to the public in 1956,
is one of the most popular National

Historic Parks operated by Parks
Canada.

Over the years the Bell family and
the National Geographic Society have
supplemented the original donation with
artifacts relating to Bell’s Washington
Volta Bureau years, replicas of early
telephone models, hundreds of historic
photographs and the remains of the
HD-4 hydrofoil craft.

Recognizing the need for additional
space to adequately display the collec-
tion, Parks Canada began an ambitious
expansion program at the Alexander
Graham Bell Complex in 1975. The new
facilities will open to the public in
May 1978.

Most of the space in the new display
will contain exhibits relating to Bell’s
Baddeck years — his sheep breeding
experiments, his work on aerial locomo-
tion, his marine experiments and his
experiments for children. There will
also be special displays on Mabel Bell
and on Bell’s lifelong interest in the
education of deaf-mutes.

The last hall in the expanded Complex
will be devoted to hydrofoil craft, in
particular to the HD-4, and Baldwin’s
work on hydrofoils after Bell’s death
in 1922. Highlights of this hall will be
the exhibit of the remains of the original
HD-4 and a full-scale reconstruction
of the craft.

As a teacher, scientist and inventor,
Alexander Graham Bell dedicated his
life to the benefit of mankind with
unusual success. This is the underlying
theme of the Alexander Graham Bell
Complex at Baddeck, Nova Scotia.

Beinn Bhreagh Hall remains the
private property of the Bell family and
Parks Canada wishes to express its
appreciation to the family for permis-
sion to photograph the grounds and
house.

Centre spread: A street scene in the Fortress
of Louisbourg National Historic Park,

Nova Scotia (Photo: Shawn MacKenzie

and Jeannette Hjorth-Nielsen)

fifteen

Parcs
Canada

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‘Fee aeRO SEIS §

Se sre

yall
rie # 2
IVETE TEVue parait en anglais et en
francais. Pour la version frangaise, voir
au verso de la publication.

Parks
Canada

Parcs
Canada

iw

Volume 4, No. 2, 1978

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help Cana-
dians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Table of Contents

3 Canada’s Wild Rivers
by Caroline Woodward

7 The Grounds of John A.’s
Bellevue House

10 The True North: Who Stands
on Guard?
by Jim Shearon

Cover: Bellevue House, Kingston, Ontario.
Residence of John A. Macdonald in 1848.
(Photo: Shawn MacKenzie)

Centre spread: Wilberforce Falls, Bathurst
Inlet, N.W.T., highest falls in the world north
of the Arctic Circle. (Photo: Peter Poole)

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
Ottawa, 1978

QS-7067-020-BB-A1

Editor: James D. Georgiles

Production: Joffre Feren

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo Credits: Canada’s Wild Rivers,

1, Priidu Juurand; 2, Bill Pisco; 4, Roger
Beardmore; Bellevue House, 1 to 3, Shawn
MacKenzie; The True North, 1, Tom

Kovacs; 2, Peter Poole; 3, Roger Beardmore,
4, Philip J. Holman; 5, Roger Beardmore.

Articles may be reproduced with a credit
line. Address inquiries to The Editor,
Conservation Canada, Department of

Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, Ontario
K1A 0H4.

©Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1978
Contract No. O9KT. A0747-8-1204

Co

Canada’s
Wild Rivers:

by Caroline Woodward

Canada is a land of wild rivers. In the
early days these rivers served as trading
and transportation routes for native

and European alike. Today, these same

wild rivers are being rediscovered by
growing numbers of canoeists and |
wilderness lovers.

Parks Canada has suinveyed wild
rivers across the country so that modern
explorers can be made aware of the
rewards and hazards of wilderness
water voyages. Rivers untamed by dams
and unsullied by industrial pollution
were chosen for their historical signifi-
cance and scenic beauty.

The survey crews monitored points
of entry and exit, water level variations,
river flow, portages and good camp-
sites. They also documented sites of
historic interest and the flora and fauna
along the routes.

It is dangerous to assume that
Canada’s wild rivers are suitable for
every adventure-seeking soul. Even

é

€

a There is a continual transition from
_ coniferous to boreal forest, interspersed —

the expertise and end
_ most shed (othe i river canoeist will

be pushed to po nite on.these power-

ful rivers.

- freeze-dried food and light veight camp-
_ ing gear assists today’s “voyageurs” as
ages, ote of aluminum: or fibre”

&

“is th Udine Maree Westiged
j e mid-ni teenth ge oeng iad?

groups rise 3 650 r m to 6 0501 m in sian
relief above the Yukon Plateau. The
northernmost limits of the Yukon.

_ border the Arctic Ocean where the. 's
-barrenlands extend tothe gravel
beaches. i

with stretches of grassland, alpine’.
tundra and finally the Arctic: batren-
lands. 2

The floral emblem. Of the Yiikow. the:
Bitpie fireweed, is much in evidence

around burned-off areas and’ abandoned
sites. Blueberries, raspberries, Labrador |

tea and wild rose-hips are late summer.
delights that can be‘ savoured as well as
visually enjoyed.

Visitors may travel to the Yukon by
car on the Alaska Highway “fly to
Whitehorse or take the three-day boat
voyage from Vancouver,.B. c. to Skag-

four

Sieh Alaska. The boat

~ ride on the White Pa

_ Inside Passage an

from Skagway to Whitehor
incredible scenic experience.
Arrangements can be made in White-
horse for parties to be taken in and out
of wild river ben float plane. wea

being ready to do battle with mosquitoes
of legendary size and viciousness.

The Yukon River system has 3 520 km
of water and is readily accessible at
several places including Whitehorse,
Carmacks, Marsh Lake and the aban-
doned town-site of Minto,

_The navigational hazards of the.

fiver are not.So formidable as to
deter he ever-increasing number of
‘travel rs from canoeing, beating. or
‘floating down this historic transportation
route. Roads and airplanes are now the
major. travelways of the Yukon;so —
happily for the’ adventurous with an eye
for the glee the river , Danks are

Piero ehs

sal
8.

a + : : e x : ee 4 p.. &

ets : The scene changes 2 as. delantiy

as the colour of th lay water. The*

towering blutis, giv way!t 3 rolling hills’,
ed basalt roek cliffs. Oppor-
r hiking are many,ahd the

WS Of A valleys and dis-

5

ergy spent on side-trips!
elkirk, Sainte, by Baker!

five

Six

1 The Little Bell River in Northern Yukon

2 Aerial view of the Grand Canyon of the
Stikine River in northern B.C.

3 Rafting on the Yukon River

4 Lining on the Mountain River, N.W.T.

in 1848, is now abandoned except for
an Indian caretaker. Originally a trading
post and mission, it once boasted a
Taylor and Drury Department Store and
one-room school.

A highlight of any trip down the Yukon
River is a visit to Dawson City, strate-
gically located where the gold-bearing
Klondike River joins the Yukon. The
restoration of many of its buildings has
recaptured the colourful personality of
Canada’s oldest city north of the sixtieth
parallel. Robert Service’s hill-top cabin
is open for visitors intrigued by the
Yukon magic that inspired the famous
northern poet. Today, Dawson City is
part of the Klondike Gold Rush Interna-
tional Historic Park, a co-operative
undertaking between Canada and the
United States.

The Yukon River, being one of the
least difficult rivers in the Territory to
canoe, invites family groups. White-
water enthusiasts who want to try the
challenge of canoeing in remote areas
and for whom the rigour of lining and
hauling canoes shin-deep in icy currents
is merely invigorating should try the Big
Salmon, Ross or Macmillan rivers.

Canoeing the Yukon rivers, and retra-

1 Méandres de Ia riviére Little Bell dans
le nord du Yukon

2 Le grand canyon de la riviére Stikine dans
le nord de la Colombie-Britannique

3 En radeau sur le fleuve Yukon

4 Halage dans des rapides de la riviére
Mountain dans les Territoires du Nord-
Ouest

cing the routes of the early explorers
and goldseekers will delight those who
crave the adventure and solitude of
almost untouched wilderness.
The wild rivers of the Yukon present
a challenge to the canoeist, but a
greater challenge lies in preserving and
protecting them so that future genera-
tion too can discover the true essence
of the Canadian North.
If wild rivers interest you, look for Parks
Canada’s booklets on “Wild Rivers’,
a series of practical guides designed to
assist modern Canadian voyageurs to
enjoy a valuable part of their natural
heritage. The following titles are now
available:
Yukon Territory, No. R62-82/1976-3
Newfoundland and Labrador,
No. R62-82/1977-6
James Bay and Hudson Bay,
No. R62-82/1977-5
Alberta, No. R62-82/1974-2
Saskatchewan, No. R62-82/1974-1
Quebec North Shore, No. R62-82/1976-4
The booklets, which cost $1.50 each
can be ordered from: Printing and
Publishing, Supply and Services
Canada, Ottawa K1A 0S9, or from your
local bookseller.

The Grounds

of John A.’s

Bellevue House

During the period from 1830 to 1845
Kingston flourished both as a garrison
town and as the capital of Upper and
Lower Canada. It attracted a large con-
tingent of builders, merchants, bankers,
and craftsmen. A great deal of money
was invested in business and in real
estate. One person to capitalize and
initially to profit from the influx of gov-
ernment officials was Charles Hales, a
merchant and grocer. With his newly
made wealth he built Bellevue Terrace,
a picturesque villa in the Italianate
Revival Style. ves

landlord, the house is variously known in
Kingston as Tea Caddy Castle, Molas-
ses Hall, and Muscovado Cottage.”

In a later letter he refers to the house
affectionately as Pekoe Pagoda for as
he wrote, his wife ‘begins to feel the
advantages of the complete quiet and
seclusion of the house... which is
completely surrounded with trees, and
has a fresh breeze ever blowing on it
from Lake Ontario’.

As Sir John A. Macdonald’s letters
imply the ‘‘Eyetalian Willar’ was initially
looked upon as somewhat of an oddity

*Mr. Stewart is a period landscape architect
for the Department of Indian and
Northern Affairs.

by John J. Stewart*

By 1844 the capital had switched to
Montreal and the government officials
moved out leaving Charles Hales with
considerable loss in his extensive real
estate investments. Bellevue was rented
and Hales and his family moved back
over his grocery store. In 1848 John A.
Macdonald, then Kingston’s M.L.A. and
later the first Prime Minister of Canada,
briefly took up residence at Bellevue
Terrace with his ailing wife and infant
son.

reflecting the occupation of its owner.
His descriptive names conjure up
images of far off places and trade goods
from the orient such as tea, spices and
molasses. With its canopied balconies,
trelliswork, fringed barge board towers
and picturesque grounds Bellevue must
have appeared as an exotic addition
attracting considerable attention. With-
out its bric-a-brac, Bellevue would lose
the lightheartedness and playfulness
which had made it unique in Kingston.
Bellevue Terrace was always intended
as a gentleman’s villa. It had the re-
laxed setting of a retreat and enough
property for a kitchen garden to supply
the needs of the family. It was never
intended as a farm. A description of the

John A. Macdonald in a letter to his
sister, Margaret Greene, described his
new home and its owner.

“I have taken a cottage or rather, | beg
its pardon a Villa near Harpers Cottage
to which we remove /sa, the baby and |
on Saturday. It is alarge roomy house
where | hope to see you and Jane next
spring. The house was built for a retired
grocer who was resolved to have an
‘Eyetalian Willar’ and who has built the
most fantastic concern imaginable.
From the previous laudable tho’ rather
prosaic pursuits (sic) of the worthy

ee

property in 1851 in a newspaper de-
scribes it as “delightful, combining the
attractions of the country and the ad-
vantages of the city. Altogether this is a
desirable residence for a family in easy
circumstances’.

It is most probable that the basic
structure of the house was inspired from
pattern books, These books were plen-
tiful and popular in both the U.S.A. and
Canada where there were more crafts-
men builders than architects. The play-
ful details of fringe canopied balconies,
fretwork and finial could have been
chosen at random and added to the
structure almost as icing to a cake.

Bellevue House was acquired by
Parks Canada in 1965 in order to restore

seven

it to the 1848 period when Sir John A.
Macdonald and his family lived there.
A great deal of careful research went
into the restoration of the house under
the direction of R. R. Dixon. It was not
until ten years later that a program was
undertaken by the author to restore
the grounds.

As with the house, pattern books were
probably used originally to lay out the
grounds. Andrew Jackson Downing,
who was the leading exponent of the
picturesque style in America, published
books on both architecture and gar-
dens. In his book Landscape Gardens
published in 1841 he illustrated houses
containing many of the details seen at
Bellevue. Books such as Downing’s
may have been used to design the
grounds which would explain why no
documentation has been found attrib-
uting the design to one architect.

It is not Known when the grounds
were laid out. Mrs. Macdonald who was
bedridden during most of their stay at
Bellevue writes of the pleasure she
received from the scent of flowers drift-
ing in her bedroom window. This sug-
gests there were gardens by 1848. The
restored grounds closely resemble
the layout as illustrated on a map dated
1869. As with the house, the grounds
were restored in the Italianate Revival
Style.

The style is well suited to the sloping
site. The grounds are terraced on two
levels with formally laid-out alleys and
side-paths surfaced in gravel. It is prob-
ably as a result of the terraces that the
name Bellevue Terrace was derived.
Exotic as well as mature native trees
and shrubs are dotted throughout the
lawns greatly reducing the sense of
formality which the path system would
suggest. A gingerbread gazebo tucked
off in a corner and overshadowed by a
gigantic oak offers a quiet retreat.

A large circular garden geometrically
laid out in a rich floral display is the
focal point in this area.

The original carriage drive sweeps
up past the house in a semi-circle. This
year fruit trees will be planted on the
lawn next to the drive recreating the
orchard which once grew here. A beau-
tiful picket fence and gates were re-
constructed along the front property
enclosing this area.

The vegetable garden is located on
the lower terrace. A close-board fence
surrounds the area. Just outside the
fence is the pump. Historically this was
a communal well shared by Bellevue

eight

1 Tapisserie ou jardin, Londres a l’époque
n’aurait pas mieux fait

2 et le tabac croit toujours dans le potager

3 le carrosse allait jusqu’a la galerie

1 A Victorian-style carpet garden
2 Tobacco grows in the vegetable garden
3 A carriage drive leads to the house

and two other properties. By midsummer
the cold frame used in the early starting
of vegetable seeds for transplanting

into the garden is partially hidden by
pumpkins and a flower with the romantic
name of love-lies-bleeding. The long

red feather plumes of this plant give it
its name.

The formality of the upper garden
is continued in the vegetable garden.

It is broken up into four quadrants each
planted with various vegetables, kitchen
herbs and small fruits. The garden was
not only practical but was also a part

of the landscape design. It was intended
to be viewed from above either the
upper terrace or the house. Rows of
lush vegetation in varying shades of
green through gray, ripe tomatoes, the
feathery foliage of rows of carrots con-
trasting the broad tobacco leaves, as
well as several species of pumpkins and
melons growing amongst the corn, let-
tuce and wild chicory, suggest ordered
chaos as they spill over on to the path
system.

The garden is intended to represent
the sort of garden a well-to-do family of
the 1850’s would keep. The garden had
to produce not only food but also herbs,
some cosmetics, insect repellents and
air fresheners. By this time in a centre
like Kingston very few medicinal plants 3
would have been grown as these could
be purchased locally.

In restoring the grounds, an effort has
been made to grow only plant varieties
available in Kingston in the 1850s. A
major difficulty we encountered at
Bellevue was finding appropriate plant
material. We knew what plants were
grown at that time, but the original
strains were often no longer available
since they had been interbred. Where it
was impossible to obtain seeds of old
varieties, modern strains were used.

At Bellevue the grounds not only
provide a delightful setting for the house
but also in themselves create a direct
experience for the visitor illustrating the
manner in which the persons of the
past responded to their natural settings.
The floral garden at Bellevue tells as
much about John A. Macdonald’s pre-
ferences and the attitudes of well-to-do
people in Upper Canada as does the
Italianate Revival Style of Bellevue
House itself.

Landscapes and gardens with their
plantings and landscape structures can

be important in interpreting an impor-
tant part of our heritage. At Bellevue the
interpretive maintenance program
established by the site superintendent,
Ed Friel, adds a great deal to a visit
to the site. Chances are as you walk up
the drive you will see the gardener out
scything the lawn or weeding the vege-
table garden. Early maintenance tools
as well as traditional techniques of
gardening are employed as a part of
day to day maintenance. The present
gardener, Russ Ferguson, is not only a
skilled gardener, but most important
he is sensitive to the history of the prop-
erty. Dressed in period costume, he is
more curator of the landscape than
someone expected just to cut the lawn.
In its setting, Bellevue has a definite
feeling of the picturesque with its lofty
location overlooking Lake Ontario,
terraced grounds, many specimen trees
and shrubs and elegant gardens. The
house, set at an angle to the street to
take best advantage of the view, forms
the hub of a small estate. A part of
Bellevue’s charm is its romantic, almost
mysterious atmosphere which has been
preserved even today though it is sur-
rounded by the 20th century.

~ The True North:

by Jim Shearon*-

ie.

a

sahannes

Mr. Faulkner said: “Il hope this North-
ern conservation strategy will include
the setting aside of natural reserves for
scientific and recreational purposes
as well as the protection of critical
habitats for fish and wildlife which are
essential ingredients of the natural
environment for all Canada and are crit-
ical for the native people of the North.”

During the coming months, Parks
Canada officers will hold meetings in
communities in the North to provide
information to local residents and hear
their comments and suggestions on
how these wilderness areas can best be
protected. Further meetings will take
place after local residents have had time
to consider the information provided to
them and there will also be meetings in
other parts of Canada so that all those
who are interested in the North, who
value a “True North, strong and free’”’,
will have an opportunity to express
their views.

Persons or organizations who would
like to receive or contribute information
on any of these Northern Wilderness
areas may do so by writing to Hon. Hugh
Faulkner, Minister of Indian and North-
ern Affairs, House of Commons, Ottawa,
or to the Director of the National Parks
Branch, Parks Canada, Ottawa, On-
tario K1A 0H4.

Following is a brief description of
the six Arctic wilderness areas proposed
by Mr. Faulkner.

twelve

1 Ibyuk pingo near Tuktoyaktuk

2 Nelson Head on southern Banks Island

3 Purple saxifrage blooms near Lake Hazen,
Ellesmere Island

4 Muskoxen at Eureka, N.W.T.

5 Yelverton Pass, northern Ellesmere Island

Greenland

\. Arctic

_\ Circles-
XS oo

a

Wager Bay
Wager Bay is on the northwest side of
Hudson Bay in the Northwest Territories.

The history of the Inuit people of
Wager Bay is believed to date back
more than 4 000 years.

The area is unusual for its diversity
of arctic land and sea mammals. The
local caribou herd is frequently seen
grazing the hills alongside the bay, and
polar bears swim in its waters. The
waters of the bay are frequented by
the beluga whale and narwhal..

The reversing falls between Wager
Bay and Ford Lake is one of only three
such phenomena in Canada. The rever-
sing falls and a tidal bore at the mouth
of the bay create polynias, areas free
from ice year-round.

Banks Island
Banks Island is located 483 km north-
east of Inuvik. The proposed wilderness
area stands at the northern end of the
island and includes a portion of the
Thomsen River Basin, the Musk Ox
River, and Mercy and Castel Bays. A
southern component featuring Nelson
Head is being considered.
Archaeological evidence indicates
that the island has been intermittently
occupied by Inuit for more than 3 000
years. Sir William Edward Parry, in 1820,
was the first European to sight and
name Banks Island.

—_

Le pingo Ibyuk prés de Tuktoyaktuk

2 On dirait une sculpture, a Nelson Head,
au sud de l’ile Banks

3 Saxifrages a feuilles opposées prés du lac
Hazen dans I’ile Ellesmere

4 Boeufs musqués a Euréka dans les
Territoires du Nord-Ouest

5 Lecol Yelverton au nord de l’ile Ellesmere

Most of the 4 000 to 5 000 muskoxen
on the island are concentrated in the
lower Thomsen River basin.

The lower stretches of the river area
designated Migratory Bird Sanctuary.
The proposed wilderness area in-

cludes three topographical units: a
deeply dissected plateau of Devonian
age to the east, the Thomsen River
Valley lowlands in the centre and to the
west a dissected upland of Cretaceous
age.

Bathurst Inlet

The proposed wilderness area sur-
rounding Bathurst Inlet in the Northwest
Territories, is remarkable for the di-
verse and luxuriant vegetation which
provides habitat for barrenground car-
ibou, muskox, Arctic fox, Arctic hare
and abundant bird-life.

The first European explorers found
Bathurst Inlet inhabited by the Copper
Eskimos, a loose association of local
groups. Two groups Known to frequent
the inlet in the spring were the Uming-
maktormuit, “‘people of the muskox”’,
and the Kilukuktormuit, ‘“‘people of Bath-
urst Inlet”. Although there has not been
an extensive archaeological study done
on the Inlet, many sites and artifacts
have been found including stone blinds,
tent rings and fishing weirs. Banks
Peninsula, for example, has many signs
of more permanent human occupancy
which can be further studied and may
reveal the lifestyles of the original
inhabitants.

The inlet is a critical breeding ground
for the peregrine falcon, a rare and
endangered species.

The Bathurst Caribou herd of about
200 000 animals is the largest herd in
Canada.

Bathurst Inlet also offers spectacular
scenery. Wilberforce Falls is thought
to be the highest falls in the world north
of the Arctic Circle. Other major water-
falls and islands with impressive scenic
features are located in the area.

Northern Yukon Territory

The proposed wilderness area in the
northern Yukon Territory encompasses
the entire Firth River and its watershed,
the Babbage River, the Old Crow Flats,
the British Mountains, the Yukon Coast,
Herschel Island and a marine com-
ponent in the Beaufort Sea.

In 1976, an archaeological dig un-
earthed what is believed to be one of the
oldest human remains ever discovered
in the western hemisphere, and studies

indicate that man was in this area more
than 30 000 years ago.

The Old Crow Flats, a level basin
rimmed by mountains and dotted by
hundreds of lakes, is an important mi-
gration route for the Porcupine herd
of barren-ground caribou. Each spring,
between 70 000 and 140 000 caribou
migrate from their wintering range in
the Yukon interior to calving areas in
the Northern Yukon and Alaska.

Herschel Island, the Yukon’s only
island, is thought to have been created
by the force of glacial ice, which
gouged marine sediments from the sea.

Protected by a surrounding rim of
mountains from the ice which changed
the topography of much of North
America during the Ice Ages, the North-
ern Yukon is perhaps the only area in
Canada where arctic tundra, alpine tun-
dra and boreal forest can be observed
in their natural condition in the same
location.

Ellesmere Island

The proposed wilderness park which
comprises northern Ellesmere Island and
a portion of Axel Heiberg Island, includes
Cape Columbia (83° 07’N), Canada’s
most northerly point of land.

The area is characterized by three
major physiographic units — the Grant
Land Mountains, the Lake Hazen Pla-
teau on Ellesmere Island and Mokka
Fjord Uplands on Axel Heiberg Island.

Paleo-Eskimos once followed migrat-

thirteen

ing herds of muskoxen from the Cana-
dian Arctic to Greenland. Excavations
in Peary Land in Greenland have un-
earthed a number of Eskimo sites which
are more than 4 000 years old.

During the late 19th century, three ex-
ploratory expeditions travelled through
the area. Fort Conger, on the northeast
coast of Ellesmere Island, a site of
historical interest, has been included
in the proposed wilderness park.

Several hundred glaciers are located
within the proposed area. Ice caps ~
covering the mountains in northern
Ellesmere Island may have once
covered the entire island.

Despite the severe «
are sheltered pock

Pingos of Tuktoyaktuk

The proposed pingo national landmark
area is located 2 200 km northwest

_of Edmonton, Alberta and 6 km south-
southwest of the village of Tuktoyaktuk
_in the Northwest Territories.

Pingos, low hills with massive ice

cores, protrude from the rolling, lake-
dotted tundra of the Tuktoyaktuk Pen-
insula. Pingos form in lake beds in

_ areas of permafrost and grow to matur-

ity over several thousands of years.
They eventually decay when pingo sum-
mits are ruptured and their ice core
melts due to exposure to the sun.

Some pingos are dome shaped, others
are flat topped or elongated. Some
resemble volcanoes, complete with
craters and water lakes. There are
more than 1 000 in the Canadian North,
almost entirely in the Tuktoyaktuk
Peninsula.

PSOE a

Parks Parcs ‘
Canada Canada

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Should Conservation Canada Continue?

Does Conservation Canada make
Canadians more aware of their natural
and cultural heritage: what do you

Please fill out the questionnaire in the
middle of this issue and let us know

think?

ur opinion.

Fa) Parks Parcs
we Canada Canada

Volume 4, No. 3, 1978

Table of Contents

3 Listen to the Wild: Kluane National
Park

8 Mona’s Fire Dress
by Sid Marty

11 Preserving Our Heritage
by Peter H. Bennett

13 Drawing on History
by James D. Georgiles

Cover: Slim River Valley with Sheep Moun-
tain on right, Kluane National Park (Photo:
Gerry Lee)

French cover: Klukshu River, Kluane

National Park (Crombie McNeill)

Centre spread: The locks at Jones Falls on the
Rideau Waterway, Ontario (Bill Kettlewell)

Published by Parks Canada under authority
of Hon. J. Hugh Faulkner,

Minister of Indian and Northern Affairs
Ottawa, 1978

QS-7067-030-BB-A1

Editor: James D. Georgiles

Production Joffre Feren

Design: Eiko Emori

Photo credits: Listen to the Wild: Kluane
National Park, 1 & 2, Chris George, 5, Gerry
Lee; Mona’s Fire Dress, Ted Grant; Preserv-
ing our Heritage, 2, Birgitta Wallace;
Drawing on History, drawings by Bill
Kettlewell

Articles may be reproduced with a credit
line. Address inquiries to The Editor,
Conservation Canada, Department of

Indian and Northern Affairs, Ottawa, Ontario
K1A 0H4.

©Minister of Supply and Services Canada 1978

Contract No. O9KT. A0747-8-1204

Cette revue parait en anglais et en
francais. Pour la version frangaise, voir
au verso de la publication.

“In a world of constant change, Parks
Canada exists to preserve the natural
heritage of this country, to help Cana-
dians everywhere to enjoy the vast
beauty of our land and the great achieve-
ments of its founders.”

Ph

ss alt

es

® the

Until very recently, the story of Kluane
has not been the story of man. It has
been the story of mountains, icefields,
glacier-fed lakes and wide valleys; of
boreal forests, tundra and spreading
patchworks of alpine wildflowers; of
roaming Dall sheep, moose and grizzly
bears.

t was to preserve the unique and
wilc beauty of Kluane that a national
park was established in 1974, Kluane

National Park covers 22 015 km2 in the

southwest corner of the Yukon, bor-
dered on the west by Alaska, and on the
south by British Columbia. It lies 160 km
northwest of Whitehorse along the
Alaska Highway that skirts the eastern
fringe of the park.

Those who travel the Alaska Highway
will enjoy only a glimpse of all that the
park’s boundaries embrace. To the west
of the road loom the St. Elias Mountains,
rugged peaks that make the Rockies
look humble by comparison.

four

On aclear day, Mount Logan (Can-

ada’s highest summit at 5 947 m) is
visible, surrounded by other mountains

of almost equal stature. As the Alaska
Highway winds around the foot of Sheep
Mountain its travellers may spot Dall
sheep grazing on the lower slopes.

It is within the park itself that Kluane’s

wilderness unfolds in all its beauty. Two
major mountain chains dominate the
land: near the Alaska Highway, the
Kluane Mountains form an unbroken
chain of peaks approximately 2 400 m
high; towering above the Kluanes, on
the Alaska-Yukon border, is the St. Elias
or Icefield Range, the highest mountains
in all of Canada. Across the summit
sleeps the largest icefield in the world
outside of polar regions. In fact, two-
thirds of the Kluane landscape lies
under ice.

Between the two mountain ranges lies
a narrow trough of valleys and plateaux
known as the Duke Depression. These
plateaux, and the icefields of St. Elias,
are drained by many rivers that cut
through the Kluane Range.

Glacier-spawned rivers and cold
mountain lakes pattern the valley floors.

Visitors to the area can see remnants
of the great ice sheets of the Pleisto-
cene area in the geological features
around them. It was during this period
that glaciers advanced and retreated,
shaping the beauty of the mountains and
leaving behind them other landforms
such as cirques and eskers, outwash
plains, ancient beaches and terraces.

The scenery of Kluane is impressive,
but hardly barren. Hundreds of varieties
of shrubs and wildflowers can be found
in the park. Vegetation ranges from
forest to tundra; there are swamps, and
also sand dunes.

Three different kinds of growth exist
in the Kluane region: boreal forest, sub-
alpine vegetation, and alpine-arctic
tundra. Boreal forests are found up to
altitudes approaching 1 200 m. Above
this elevation are smaller shrubs, birch
and willow growing from a mat of
plants and flowers. Higher still, above
1 500 m, is the true tundra, where growth
rarely exceeds 30 cm.

Along the willowed streams, in forest
and in tundra, are found the creatures
of the Yukon. Members of the largest
subspecies of moose in North America
inhabit the forests and river valleys.
Dall sheep graze, white against the tun-
dra, and mountain goats clamber the
rocky slopes above the timberline.
Mountain caribou and mule deer have
also been seen within the park.

Along the many rivers and streams
are the dens of wolves, coyotes and
foxes. Grizzlies forage for food, espe-
cially in the river valleys, and black
bears, Alaska brown bears, wolverines
and lynxes roam the area. Smaller
mammals, such as snowshoe hares and
Arctic ground squirrels, support the
carnivore population.

Kluane is also a land of warblers,
eagles and falcons. The nests and songs
of over 170 species of birds have been
identified in the park to date. Willow-
and rock-ptarmigans live on the tundra
slopes. The forests have their thrushes,
the valleys their magpies.

A description of Kluane is a picture
of all that is rugged, wild and beautiful.
For many thousands of years, Kluane
has been mastered only by the forces
that have created its mountains and
valleys. Its creatures have lived undis-
turbed, bypassed by the history of man.

It may seem a strange truth that
Kluane needs protection, difficult to
realize that its destruction is remotely
possible. Mining roads tell another
story, bulldozer tracks have already left
behind deep erosion gullies and in the
fragile Arctic landscapes the impact of
man is not easily erased.

1 Steele Glacier

2 Iceberg, Lowell Glacier
3 Lichen on rock

4 Ground squirrels

Trees take a long time to grow in
Kluane. Growing seasons are short, and
destroyed vegetation leaves the soil
wide open to erosion and the destruc-
tion of wildlife habitats.

These are some of the facts that man
has ignored in his recent explorations
for gold and copper in the Kluane area.
The scars cannot be healed, but as a
national park, Kluane is protected, its
incredible beauty preserved for Cana-
dians of today and tomorrow.

What Kluane offers to those who
travel there is an unsurpassed wilder-
ness experience. For the adventurous,
the most challenging mountain climbing
in Canada can be found in the St. Elias
or Icefield Range. International attention
was given to 250 climbers who took part
in the 1967 Yukon Alpine Centennial
expedition, after Hannibal, one of the
largest mountaineering expeditions
in world history.

The Icefield Range offers scientific
challenge as well. Over the past few
years, ongoing investigations by gla-
ciologists, climatologists, biologists and
hydrologists have studied such phe-
nomena as the influence of glaciers on
weather, and the adaptations of small
mammals to arctic environments.

1 Le glacier Steele dans le parc national
Kluane

2 Iceberg prés du glacier Lowell

3 Lichen accroché a une pierre

4 Ecureuils spermophiles de Richardson

Studies of grizzly bears and Dall sheep
in their natural environment have
opened up new prospects for wildlife
interpretation.

Kluane is not only for travellers daring
enough to brave the mountain peaks,
or for those with scentific interest or
expertise. The park is remote, but can
be reached via the Haines Road and
the Alaska Highway.

There is wilderness camping and pic-
nicking at Kathleen Lake, just off Haines
Road, and increasing numbers of peo-
ple are visiting this southwestern and
most accessible region of Kluane. In the
same area, fishermen test the icy waters
at Mush, Bates, Kathleen and Sockeye
lakes. Old mining roads beckon hikers
into the back country. The high density
of wildlife in the wide valleys assures
all travellers a glimpse of the various

five

lodge in the Alder Creek marshes, 5 Hutte de castor !a ot le ruisseau Alder
Lake devient le lac Mush

creatures of the Yukon: the many faces
of Kluane give nature photographers
a chance to capture her moods.

Slowly, Kluane’s story is unfolding
to man. Her secrets are being whispered
to those who care enough to listen.
Technology, inevitably, has left its mark
on the landscape. But those scars are
few, and now forever halted. As an
tional park, the land of Kluane stands
like a gem in the western corner of
Canada.

AL RPP ob

aig

ee,

SPA C cdeteenlpngirian Se

Mona’s
Fire Dress

by Sid Marty

:
¥
|

Sid Marty, a warden at Banff National

Park, took eight months leave of absence

to write a book about the National Park
Warden Service as seen through the
experiences of one warden and his
colleagues.

Mona’s Fire Dress, an anecdote from
Men for the Mountains by Sid Marty,
is reprinted by permission of the Cana-
dian Publishers, McClelland and
Stewart, Limited, Toronto.

“The old-time wardens of the mountain
parks were a breed apart. Civilization
had driven them into the sanctity of the
mountains as it had done some years
earlier the buffalo, the grizzly bear, the
wapiti, and the wolf, and the mountains
were the last stronghold of men like Bill
Peyto, who once shot a grizzly through
the eye with a single bullet from a .22
calibre rifle, men like Frank Wells and
Frank Bryant, who had curled up in the
snow like wolves all night for the chance
to catch poachers and then chased
them for twenty miles on snowshoes,
finally running them down. They were
jealously possessive of their lonely
districts and, if they saw more than one
person during the course of a winter’s
travel, they’d complain about ‘too many
goddam people spoilin the peace and
quiet.’.

“Of necessity the women who married
these men were as strong-willed and
self-reliant as their husbands. In addi-
tion to keeping house in the bush, such
women were expected to lend a hand
on the trail with packing the horses or
fixing phone line. In later years, as the
number of people travelling in the back-
country gradually increased, the war-
den’s wife acted on his behalf when he
was absent, by selling fishing licences,
giving information, registering climbers,
and manning telephone and radio links
to town in cases of emergency. She
received official recognition from the
parks branch, and no pay. In effect, the
government gained two employees for
the price of one. A married warden
could travel more freely and efficiently
in the bush with his wife ‘minding the

store’ in a headquarter’s cabin. Obvious-

ly, such a woman required considerable
patience, and most important when
dealing with the public, a sense of
humour.

Sundance Range, Banff National Park

“We stopped to say goodbye to one
of our neighbours at Pocahontas, an
old-time mountain woman who took the
life of a warden’s wife in her stride.
Mona Matheson is known to some of the
natives around Jasper as ‘one of the
greatest gals who ever laced on boots.’
She lives in a cabin near the Yellow-
head Highway in a clearing of pine and
aspen forest with a commanding out-
look toward the mountains she has
known for most of her life. Though they
have dominated her existence for over
50 years, they have never dominated
her spirit. Having outlived her husband,
Charlie, she stays on in their cabin
alone.

“Mona met us at the door and invited
us in for tea. It would be the last chance
we would have to talk with her for
several months. She’s a slender, grey-
haired woman of medium height with
a pert, pugnacious nose, and she moves
with an ease and lightness that is at
odds with her age.

“Mona poured cupfuls of tea, the
drink that serves as a conversational
lubricant in the mountains.

“Myrna was full of excitement about
our move to the Tonquin Valley, and
Mona told her not to listen to my objec-
tions because she herself had raised
a child in the Warden Service. That had
been in the days before helicopters,
when the hospital was many days away,
and a mother had to be both nurse and
doctor to her children in cases of
emergency.

“| mentioned Charlie and at once
her expression changed, her eyes look-
ing inward on a private pain — but
only briefly.

“““Charlie.’ She said the name softly,
with a depth of feeling that made clear
how great the loss was. She had been
prepared for his death, though, because
she had nursed him through several
years of illness.

“They had met at Medicine Lake in
Jasper Park, where Mona and her sister,
Agnes, worked as cooks in a trail-ride
camp for Fred Brewster, a Jasper out-
fitter. The wardens used to drop in for
coffee on their patrols to Maligne Lake
or the Rocky River. There was a stack
of well-worn magazines in the tent for
the dudes to read and the men would
leaf through these at times, waiting for
the coffee to boil, pretending they were
reading. Mona noticed that Charlie
was the only warden who held his mag-

Le chainon Sundance dans le parc national
Banff

azine right side up. It seems the others
were just using it as a lecher’s screen
while they ogled the young cooks.

“We didn’t like the way they looked
at us,’ she said, and we laughed with
her.

‘Mona soon decided that Charlie
would make a good partner although
Charlie, 16 years her senior, seemed
set in his bachelor ways and would be a
difficult man to convert. But Mona was
determined. She once helped him jingle
his ponies at 4:00 in the morning when
they pulled out on him at Jacques Lake.
She walked and ran nine miles in thin
running shoes to help round them up,
chasing after the faint tinkle of the lead
mare’s bell in the timber. Her feet had
been slightly frostbitten in the process
but Charlie, though sympathetic, was
not entirely convinced about matrimony.

“While he was making up his mind,
Mona and her sister talked Fred
Brewster into hiring them as horse
guides. They had picked up skills of
that trade by watching the cowboys
working around camp and practising
what they learned on their days off.
After a brief confrontation with the
Chief Warden and Park Superintendent,
who were alarmed at the idea of women
doing what had always been a man’s
job, Mona and Agnes got their licences
and became the first female guides in
Jasper Park.

“1 wonder why more women didn’t
apply for those jobs,’ said Myrna.

“Mona thought for a minute. ‘I don’t
really know. Maybe they were afraid
to try. Nowadays it’s different so I’m
told.’

“In some ways,’ said Myrna, with a
smile, ‘but in lots of ways it’s still the
same.’

nine

“Well, you see, I’ve never been afraid
of anything. | don’t know why, but it’s
true. Guiding turned out to be a lot of
trouble and hard work. But for me, it was
worth it. Just to know | could do
the job.’

“The sisters were just Supposed to
guide dudes on backcountry horse trips
and Brewster was to provide them with
men to do the packing and horse wran-
gling. For some reason, these men
never showed up. Mona never said why,
but knowing a bit about cowboys, |
wonder whether there wasn’t a bit of
male conspiracy there, to test the sisters
by seeing if they could do all the work
involved, not just the horseback riding.
it was a man-size task since each had
to de the packing and wrangling as well
as guiding for two outfits, totalling
35 head of horses. They were up each
day before 4:00 a.m. to catch, feed,
saddle and doctor their animals. They
had to pack all the food and equipment
for the dudes as well, which included
everything from thundermugs to out-
board engines. They saw each other oc-
casionally in camp that summer, the
rest of the time they worked separately,
guiding or packing.

“Mona, a former cook, slaved away
the long hours in her exalted position as
head guide, while the new camp cook
sat on a log and watched with interest.
Holding a heavy pack box in her arms,
the diminutive guide had to stand ona
stump to reach the back of a tall horse.
She was able to lift everything but the
outboard engines needed for fishing at
Maligne Lake. The motors weighed
200 Ib but Mona’s cook, a big strapping
man, used to lift them up onto the horse
for her with ease.

ten

“‘Teamwork,’ said Myrna, giving me
a significant glance.

“‘That’s right,’ said Mona. ‘As long
as he could lift them, | could get them
tied on, and as long as it was tied on
good, the horse would carry it.’

“| glanced at Mona in covert admir-
ation. The key to the horse business has
always been the skill of the handler,
not his or her strength. Still, as a large
mesomorph, who once had my hands
full just dealing with two horses, | was
feeling slightly overwhelmed as Mona
modestly described how she packed
from 10 to 15 head at a time.

“Charlie too had been impressed, so
they were finally married.

“Mona’s skill with the diamond hitch
came in a handy on many occasions,
but none so dramatically as during the
dry, hot summer of 1935. That year
she and Charlie were stationed at Ma-
ligne Lake, 32 miles southeast of Jasper
townsite. '

“We had gone up to the narrows of
the lake with our boat one Sunday.
About noon, here comes Harry Phillips
from the camp at the north end, with
two kickers (outboard motors) on his
boat, going like blazes. He told us a fire
had broken out on the Horseshoe
Bend.’

“Horseshoe Bend is on the Maligne
River, between Maligne Lake and the
Athabasca River, a good 15 miles from
the narrows, 10 by boat and five by
horse. They went down the lake as fast
as they could. Charlie took some tools
and two horses and galloped off down
the trail. In an hour he was scouting the

fire’s perimeter and he saw that he
couldn’t contain it without help. He had
his forestry fieldset with him, so he
climbed a tree to the phone wire,
hooked in his set, and rang up Jasper.

“The Administration Building was in
an uproar. Sixteen fires had broken out
in the park that day and all available men
were already committed. The Chief War-
den told him to hang on, that he would
send him a crew the next day. Charlie
fought the fire all day, and late in the
afternoon, worn out, he rang up Mona
and asked her to bring him his outfit
with tents, teepee, blankets, and enough
food to last 20 men for three days.
Alone, with the fire building up arround
him, Charlie was lucky to be married
to a horsewoman like Mona who could
look after this chore without his riding
back to help her.

“The horses were pastured in the
Opal Hills, a high meadowland above
Maligne Lake, in the shadow of the
9,000 foot Leah Peak. Mona moved as
fast as she could, but it was 7:00 p.m.
before they were in the corral and she
could start saddling up. It took a while
to gather up all the equipment and it was
hard work packing the heavy teepee
cloth, the bulky crew tents, the boxes of
canned goods, wool blankets, and fire-
fighting tools. The job had to be done
carefully. It’s dangerous to have to load
slip on the trail, especially in the dark.
Mona worked on into the night by lan-
tern light, finally topping off the packs
with some empty 25 Ib lard pails, which
would be cooking pots for the big crew.

“Late that night she took the string
out of the yard, heading down the
Maligne River, which led her like a
starry carpet through the darkness.

She gave the mare its head and kept
hers down out of the way of the low
branches that swept over the trail.

Just before dawn they rode out into a
little meadow and, suddenly, there was
a rush of heat rising from the ground.
A lake of fire stretched out before her,
no flames, just the embers scattered
like fallen stars along the earth. There
was a clink of metal and a shadow
drifted across the red coals, little arrows
of flame fanned in its wake.

“Looks like hell, don’t it?’ cracked
Charlie, adding, ‘Thanks, Mona.’

“They started setting up camp at
dawn. The crew came in by boat from
the head of Medicine Lake early that
morning and Charlie shook his head
when he saw them. They were boys, the

oldest being about seventeen. Charlie
asked Mona if she would stay and cook,
since the administration wasn’t sup-
plying acamp cook. Mona took the job.

““‘Nlow we had no cook tent,’ she told
us, ‘and we had no stove either. For
a table, we used a pack mantle spread
out on the ground. | cooked everything
in those 25 Ib lard pails hung over an
open fire. What a job! There were three
shifts of fire-fighters to be fed three
times a day and only one cook. That fire
burned a whole month. It went right
over the top of a mountain and down
into some blind hole.’

“As she talked, | pictured the camp,
the dirty, exhausted boys lying on the
ground, the blackened pots smoking
over the fire, and the bulldog flies and
mosquitoes clumped in the air, living
clouds of torture. | pictured Mona rolling
out of her blanket in the teepee before
dawn to start the breakfast fire and
working late into the evening, the smoke
of 30 days’ work stinging in her eyes.

“What did they pay you for that,
Mona?’ | asked.

““Payl’ she exclaimed. ‘Ha! That’s
quite a joke. Oh, the fire-fighters got
paid, of course. Charlie got his regular
wages, | think $130 a month. No over-
time either. They hadn’t invented that
yet. He had to stay on that fire 24 hours
a day, until it was dead out.’

“Yes, but what about you?’ Myrna
asked. ‘Didn’t you get paid at all?’

“Well, they didn’t quite know what
to do with me. | was the warden’s wife,
you see. | guess they figured it wouldn't
look good, putting me on payroll.
People would talk. In the end, they de-
cided | should get something, so they
gave me a cheque — for five dollars.’

“‘That’s terrible,’ Myrna said,
stunned. | sat back in my chair, shaking
my head.

“It was about what I’d expected, and
anyway, | was doing it for Charlie, not
the service. Charlie and |, we shared
everything, including the hardships. It
was no picnic for him either, at times,
but it brought us closer together. | have
no regrets, though it was kind of hell
at times.’

“There had been no trace of bitter-
ness in Mona’s voice as she told the
story, only a kind of ironic amusement
at the memory.

“‘! remember | bought a dress with

the five dollars. | called it my fire dress.

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Setting the mood for these historic
accounts are 22 pen and ink sketches
by Canadian artist C. W. (Bill) Kettle-

Some of the sketches
Falls on the Rideau Waterway, Fort

well. These illustrations form a backdrop
to our cultural heritage and Bill Kettle-
well has applied his intense love of

Canadian history to his works.

places and

the agency responsible

Parks Canada,
for these places of national significance,

has published a new guide to aid Cana-

dians and others interested in our

Canada’s national historic parks and
cultural heritage.

sites commemorate people
events of major significance in the his-

torical development of our country.

Bill Kettlewell

Now 63 year.

such as Jones

young,

S
retirement in Toronto with

the former Elizabeth Wilmot.

Mrs. Kettlewell shares Bill’s interest in

lives in semi
his wife,

location, others were executed from

Wellington at Prescott and Bellevue
photographs.

House in Kingston were drawn on

Historic, a compact 48-page booklet,
contains brief accounts of 56 historic
parks and sites where Canadians can
experience their cultural heritage

d
Parks |

Canada, Ottawa, Ontario KIA OH4.

J

Copies of Historic can be obtaine

history and is well-known as an author
free by writing to Historic Guide

and railway historian.

Well known for his historic drawings,
Bill Kettlewell has illustrated many
publications produced by the Province
of Ontario. Bill’s active interest in our

After history, Bill Kettlewell’s other
love is horses and until a year ago he

cultural heritage received official
pointed to the Advisory Council of the

recognition when he was recently ap-
Ontario Heritage Foundation.

lived in the small Ontario community of

Milford where he raised, rode and

painted them.

From the remains of a Viking Settle-
ment at L’Anse aux Meadows and the
inventions of Alexander Bell, to the now
silent guns of Fort Rodd Hill, each of
the places listed in the guide tells a

line drawings and vignettes which cap-
rich story of Canada’s past.

ture the essence of the park or site

first-hand. The text is illustrated with
commemorated.

Although widely known for his paint-
ings of horses — he has painted many

thirteen

4 Fort Langley National Historic Park, British 5 Interior of Fort Wellington National Historic

th anu ro Columbia. A Hudson’s Bay Company post, Park, Prescott, Ontario. Garrison of the
Fe ologi Fort Langley prospered in the 1850’s when Royal Canadian Rifle Regiment from 1838
t all British route to the until 1870, the fort became a national

\tually becoming the supply historic park in 1923.
Ria

wa ims
pot for inland posts. Blacksmiths and
carpenters once worked in the artisans’

( 6 Q

were made for packing salmon.

2 of

4

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y '

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fourteen

1 Al’Anse aux Meadows, a Terre-Neuve,
sous des tertres envahis par l’herbe, des
archéologues ont découvert les seuls
vestiges en Amérique du Nord du passage
et du sejour des Vikings dont on ait pu
garantir l’authenticité. On a mis au jour
les restes de six maisons, d’une forge, d’un
sauna et de fosses a cuisson.

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3 Alexander Graham Bell, inventeur, ensei-
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sa contribution a l’invention du téléphone.
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en médecine, en aérona

truction navale et
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historique national Ale
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historique |

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Centre-spread: The locks at Jones Falls on
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